His name is "George" 84' C10

[WilliamFd55]

Full throttle achieved! Up and on an angle works great. I'll do some cable management when the intake is installed. Some pics of the modified valve covers....... Had to cut out the rear section and the lip for the plug side to get everything to sit flush.

[WilliamFd55]

New throttle bracket/ Intake/ injectors/ rails installed! Almost made a gigantic mistake with "Inch" pounds and "Foot" Pounds when torqueing the intake nuts. Once I had everything in place, found the next new issue. Alternator does not fit due to fuel fitting. I have zero interest in getting a new alternator/ pump bracket to relocate, so hopefully a 90 degree swivel fitting will fit. Fingers crossed.

[tinydb84]

I ran my fuel crossover on the backside. Not sure if that is an option for you but might be worth looking.

[WilliamFd55]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I ran my fuel crossover on the backside. Not sure if that is an option for you but might be worth looking.

Thanks for the idea. I did some Googling and found that this is a common issue. There is a 90 degree low profile fitting that mounts directly to the rail. Got it ordered!

[WilliamFd55]

Was able to get the trans cross member mounted in place and cut the tunnel for the shifter. Plan is to keep the bench for now. Blended existing Colorado shifter with the old and it clears. Plan is to get the fuel lines done this weekend and hopefully move on to wiring from there.

[WilliamFd55]

No where near this point yet, but wanted to hang some sheet metal. Seeing some metal on there will give me the kick to get this thing done

[WilliamFd55]

Fuel line update! 8an to 8ORB 90 degree swivel worked perfectly behind the alternator. Got most of the feed done back to the "Y" on the frame rail and the return line done. Fuel cell wasn't set up for fuel injection and I didn't want to drill into this thing. Top 6an port was previously used a vent. Now that I wanted to use this as a return, I added a small tube to drop the line to the foam on the bottom of the cell. From what I've read its better to have the return submerged, than to have it just drop in like a faucet. Luckily there was a 6an male on the inside of the tank to attach it to. Working on brackets for the pump/ filters.

[WilliamFd55]

Happy to say, fuel line are a wrap! Made a tray to hold the pump/ filter as low as I could get it to the bottom of the cell. Had to do a weird loop between first filter and pump. They were at different heights and no angled fitting worked out. On to wiring......

[WilliamFd55]

Also way over thought the vent. Again, didn't want to drill into this tank, so this was the only thing I can think of. It has a quick release so the cap can be unscrewed. Might just change it to a small air filter?

[WilliamFd55]

Well, wiring isn't fun haha. Holley's wiring harness/ instructions are very easy, there's just so much of it! I'm trying to hide all the wires the best I can so the glove box was the only option for the ECU/ relays to live. Did have to modify some wires because I flipped the throttle body and my battery is in the bed. And yes, I'm living up to the "Don't worry I zip tied it" decal.

[WilliamFd55]

Had some thick scrap aluminum that I used to make the tray. Not sure if anyone has done this before, but it works pretty good if you line everything up right. Made a brake with some angle iron. It's good for larger thickness metal for small brackets and things like this. Got the idea off Youtube. ECU/ relays and a fuse block for all "Switched" accessories fit in there pretty tight, but they fit.

[WilliamFd55]

Morning all,

Almost turbo time! I've definitely noticed the issue, but have been kicking it down the road. One of the reasons I went with the TSP oil pan was due to it having a turbo drain already built it. I know they are made to fit "Universal" applications, but not the best placement for C10's. Even if I was smart enough to install a swivel fitting before I installed the pan, it still hit the motor mount perch. 10An fitting is a large 90, so I have to cut a good section out and about an 1/8" of the mount itself. Wasn't the easiest job, but pulling the motor wouldn't have been either

[WilliamFd55]

Clutch is a wrap. Last swap I did, I used American Powertrain for the clutch master. Found measurements online to use OEM and decided to save 400 bucks. Used OEM clutch master/ feed line to trans. Only had to modify the trans end with 1/4"-3an hardline adaptor and make bolt mount to existing pedal. Was a little nervous on where to exactly drill the hole, but it all worked out with no binding.

[WilliamFd55]

Some more pics.....

[WilliamFd55]

We're finally talking turbo. Here is my first failed attempt on a mounting bracket. I've seen some brackets that were mounted from one head before and wanted mine to have (2) Points for mounting. This thing probably weighs 45-50 pounds! So after some cardboard mockups, I thought we were good. Looks like I have to go up around 4" and forward a inch or two. I'll use this opportunity to make it better.

[WilliamFd55]

So actually failed on my second attempt at the turbo bracket. 3rd one is fabbed up and I'm cleaning the welds/ painting. Moved onto Intercooler mounting....
This thing is thiccccc. I don't want to lose the stock look of a 74' grill, only other option was low and up. Had to cut the bottom of the frame so I added some thick walled tubing in front of the sway bar mounts and steel across the front to stiffen everything up. Top of intercooler mounts to new front cross section and bottom is mounted to another bar hung from brackets to the frame. Next I'm going to make a shroud to direct the air in. Looks VERY low, but is higher than lower control arms aired out.

[WilliamFd55]

More pics.....

[tinydb84]

I like the creative ideas. I struggled with my turbo mount for awhile before I came up with the one I did.

Is your intercooler high enough? Might be the angle but it looks pretty low.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I like the creative ideas. I struggled with my turbo mount for awhile before I came up with the one I did.

Is your intercooler high enough? Might be the angle but it looks pretty low.

x2. But... that's going off of web pics on a monitor.

My thought is maybe there's enough clearance that it's drivable. But, will a ~4" hydraulic jack slide under it? Ramps for any lifts or similar?

That's a low point on the rails (the sway bar mounts pretty close to the lowest point) so I'm curious because of the close proximity.

[WilliamFd55]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I like the creative ideas. I struggled with my turbo mount for awhile before I came up with the one I did.

Is your intercooler high enough? Might be the angle but it looks pretty low.

Thank you and 3rd time was definitely a charm. I'd admit, it's REALLY low. Truck is bagged so when aired out, its going to be roughly an 1" off the ground. I could set ride height to where I need it to be so its drivable. Think I have around 5" of lift.

[WilliamFd55]

Couple more pics at a better angle. Intercooler is a tad higher than the lower control arms. Those never touched the ground aired out. Was able to get the turbo bracket in and started laying out exhaust.

[SCOTI]

They may not touch when air'd out but they'll be close. They also have the benefit of the front wheels being on the same centerline to help keep them from making contact w/stuff.

For reference, I moved my modular sway-bar rearward from the stock mounting point as it was the lowest point of the front end on a raised aftermarket x-member + C/O set-up. A funky entrance/exit angle or a large enough dip in the road @ the right speed/height might be an issue for the IC mounted farther forward. There is still a concern my sway bar could make contact in the right set of circumstances but it's now higher mounting point & construction material should add a small safety margin. A IC made of aluminum would not take an oops hit weil.

Again. talking oops/worst case. Hopefully you'll be fine.

[WilliamFd55]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

They may not touch when air'd out but they'll be close. They also have the benefit of the front wheels being on the same centerline to help keep them from making contact w/stuff.

For reference, I moved my modular sway-bar rearward from the stock mounting point as it was the lowest point of the front end on a raised aftermarket x-member + C/O set-up. A funky entrance/exit angle or a large enough dip in the road @ the right speed/height might be an issue for the IC mounted farther forward. There is still a concern my sway bar could make contact in the right set of circumstances but it's now higher mounting point & construction material should add a small safety margin. A IC made of aluminum would not take an oops hit weil.

Again. talking oops/worst case. Hopefully you'll be fine.

I'm hoping as well. I try to think about everything before doing and have found that is just impossible. It's a great help to be on a site like this to get input like yours and really appreciate it. First time doing a build completely on my own and a turbo to boot. Its a blast and also nerve racking at the same time.

[WilliamFd55]

Exhaust complete! With the radiator and electric fans in place, it was like playing operation. I measured the wheels at full turn before I started and again, its going to be close.

[SCOTI]

Looks 'complicatingly' good. I bet wrapping was fun as well.