47-55.1 Eliminate draft tube options

[dsraven]

Probably nothing too special and you could likely loosen the line nuts and then unscrew the brass fitting in the block. The block will likely be threaded to a national pipe thread (check with a simple pipe fitting to see what screws in, remembering that pipe threads are tapered and naturally get tighter as the fitting screws in). Then, with that in mind, a new brass fitting could be installed in the block, on both ends, that would accept a simple, off the shelf, brake line of the same size as the original tubing. Just make sure the new fittings dont have a smaller ID than the original fittings or they will cause a restriction in flow.

[TX3100Guy]

Ok, at this point I have removed the transmission, the clutch plate, and the flywheel. All the other accessories have been removed (alternator, water pump, intake and exhaust manifolds, magneto, etc).

I have a typical engine hoist that a buddy gave me and I have the Harbor Freight leveler that has four short chains hanging from it. There are clearly great 3/8" threaded bolt holes from the manifolds to connect to on the drivers side, but on the passenger side, the only good bolts holes are near the front of the block for the unused side motor mount holes, no good bolt hole appears to exist on the rear passenger side. Any thoughts on where to attach will be appreciate.

[dsraven]

attach high up on the engine with at least one end, if you can, so the engine will always want to hang right side up. if you attach lower down it may want to flip over so the attachment points are the highest up and the weight hangs below that. think of it like an old metal bucket full of water with a bale wire handle. would you want the bale wire handle attached to the bottom of the bucket or closer to the top of the bucket. attached low down will allow the bucket to roll and dump water.
my go to would be a quick home made plate to bolt up where the thermostat housing goes, as many bolt holes on the engine area as possible to spread the load between bolts, and with a longer tang that sticks up above the surface so a chain can be attached there in the centerline of the engine. a quick cardboard pattern with an extra hole top centre to attach a clevis for the chain. make a plate from flat bar or whatever as then you don't need to cut anything with a torch to a specific pattern, just drill holes. it doesn't need to look pretty but remember you will use it again for install. a square piece of 1/4" plate would be great and could likely be sourced from a local welding or fab shop. with the front attached at the top of the engine things will want to stay right side up.
at the rear I would use another home made bracket made from flat bar with holes drilled to mount to the starter bolts and flat washers or short lengths of pipe to allow the nuts to tighten up and keep the bracket tight on the block. made with a long tab at the top and another hole drilled to attach the chain clevis. the other end of the rearward chain would attach to a couple of manifold bolts. here i would attach a separate short length of chain bolted on tight to the head with some manifold bolts but loose enough to allow the chain to turn a little. a big flat washer between the chain and the head surface to stop any marring of the surface on the head. span the load between a couple of bolts with the short length of chain and then attach the longer rearward chain, that connects to the starter side, to that short chain like you would attach it to a bracket that is attached there. then adjust the rear chain and the front chain so they attach to the spreader/lifter bar you have. no brackets required just a couple of clevises, so if the L brackets come off thats probably better. locate/attach the spreader/lifter between the front and rear of the engine remembering the rear is gonna be heavier due to the bell-housing. I have a slew of smaller clevises that I use for this stuff and they attach easily to the jackall beam that I use for the spreader/lifter bar. when done no chain should be allowed to slip through a clevis as that will allow change to happen in your set up. when the engine lifts off the mounts you will see if it is going to be rear or front heavy and then you can set it down and do the required adjustments at that time before you pick it up for real.
of course, removing some head bolts and screwing in some replacement bolts with lift eyes attached would be the cats meow. doing this requires the head to be torqued up after the engine is installed back into the truck again though because loosening head bolts is going to affect the integrity of the gasket.
just my 2 cents, there are lots of ways to get the job done, some sketchier than others.

[dsraven]

sorry, what I call a clevis is actually a screw-pin shackle
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/cl...s-for-lifting/

a home made bracket that would look something like this, with the appropriate holes drilled for mounting to the head and made to span the distance of the head width, is what i meant for the front thermostat housing bolt up area
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-5058LH-K/mu...brackets-86-93

[dsraven]

if you have nothing but time you could fab a plate to bolt up to the water pump and thermostat housing bolts and then you would have no worries about whether the holes are strong enough, lol.
use a gasket to a pattern to make the bracket from or use the thermostat housing itself for a pattern. mark it, drill the bracket holes slightly larger, bolt it on tight. done.
same for the starter mount bracket. some will say just bolt the chain on there, good enough. if you bolt the chain across the 2 bolts usually only one bolt is doing the actual lifting. a bracket bolted on tight ensures both bolts are doing the work so the load is spread out. same theory for the chain that I would use across the manifold bolts. use a couple of bolts with the short chain between them, then the actual lifting chain connects to that in the middle of the chain so BOTH manifold bolts take the load. of course a home made bracket here would also be better but thats a little more time and effort.

[TX3100Guy]

The saga continues. The engine is now successfully out of the truck but try as I might, I could not get it to mate up to the engine stand. When I was able to get the four adjustable brackets loosely attached to the stand, I was not happy with the placement of the two lower bolts as they were uncomfortably close to the rear end cap and bearing. Rather than risk fate, I used my 1,000 pound hydraulic cart to partially support the engine while still attached to the engine hoist.

My question is, has anyone found or used an adapter plate to mate to an inline six engine to a fairly standard engine stand? Where can I find an adapter plate like that?

[geezer#99]

Let’s see your fairly standard engine stand.
Just a pic.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Let’s see your fairly standard engine stand.
Just a pic.

2,000 pound, foldable, Harbor Freight.

[geezer#99]

Maybe you need the slotted arm style like this one.
Multi positions.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...p.0090223.html

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Maybe you need the slotted arm style like this one.
Multi positions.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...p.0090223.html

Unfortunately, that appears to be exactly what I have. But the spacing on the arms seems to be arranged for a V8 and not a straight six. I've made a pattern from the bell housing and it clearly doesn't fit the stand.

[geezer#99]

I can’t see why that won’t bolt on.
You got a pic of your bellhousing and back of the block?

[TX3100Guy]

I'll post pics of the bell housing and the block in a bit, I'm busy taking a rest....LOL

The issue is one of spacing of the four block holes to be used and the adjustably of the moveable arms on the stand. I can get the top two on easily, but given the horizontal and vertical distance, the arms for the lower bolts rest up against the rear end cap and crankshaft. To avoid them resting against the crank, I can only get one of the two lower arms attached.

This was after two hours of fidgeting with it.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I can’t see why that won’t bolt on.
You got a pic of your bellhousing and back of the block?

The photo of the block missed the top two bolt holes, but you can see them on the photo of the bell housing.

[geezer#99]

Got it!
You might need some longer bolts and spacers to get it to fit.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Got it!
You might need some longer bolts and spacers to get it to fit.

I'll give that a try this weekend.

[TX3100Guy]

Apparently, I just needed to sleep on it and then tried some spacers to move the adjustable arms away from the crank and end cap.




New question. What is this hole/port for? It's on the drivers side of the engine and I'm wondering if I could repurpose it for my oil pressure sensor instead of using a tee-fitting off one of the oil filter lines.

[geezer#99]

Could be coolant drain hole.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Could be coolant drain hole.

I should of taken and posted a better picture.

[geezer#99]

Remove the plug and see what comes out.

[TX3100Guy]

I have already drained the oil and coolant. The thread pitch is wrong for my oil pressure sensor. When originally I removed the bolt, it appeared greasy black, but wan't dripping from oil.

[leegreen]

Stick your compressor air line into that hole and see what sprays out the other openings in block, coolant or oil.

It could get messy

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by leegreen

Stick your compressor air line into that hole and see what sprays out the other openings in block, coolant or oil.

It could get messy

It could be, if you crank the psi up to 100 plus . Try some low psi first, then you won't potentially be cleaning up gu from across the garage

[TX3100Guy]

A couple of mysteries solved.

1) the bolt on the side that I was asking about goes into the coolant side of things, not the oil galleries. With the water pump already off, blowing air resulting in a hollow sound and air escaping through the large opening for the water pump.

2) a week or two ago I was asking about replacing the oil line in the lifter/push rod side of the engine. I used Mr. Google on the interwebs to find a company that sells a NOS oil line replacement kit. The photo below is the old line at the top and the box and the kit on the lower half of the photo.

The new kits uses compression fitting versus the flared ones on the engine. The next step is to ensure that the thread pitch on the two connecting fitting are the same, they look to be.

[dsraven]

I thought that block plug was gonna be a coolant hole.
Not trying to be picking at your new purchase but the rocker oil line could have been replaced easily with a length of brake line. Maybe even easier to bend to fit. Since you have the new on though, go for it. I recommend you straighten the line out before you start.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I thought that block plug was gonna be a coolant hole.
Not trying to be picking at your new purchase but the rocker oil line could have been replaced easily with a length of brake line. Maybe even easier to bend to fit. Since you have the new on though, go for it. I recommend you straighten the line out before you start.

The NOS kit was $20. I'd have spent that much for a piece of brake line and new fittings.