Build that 71 402 already

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Few things I've learned recently.......

OIL PAN BOLTS: The OER "correct" oil pan replacement bolts don't work with a one piece gasket. The timing chain cover bolts are a 1/16" shorter than original, not that they'd work anyway. My old set was a near match, I prefer a match, so I ordered ARP bolts. At least they're a nice black and a better bolt too. Just what I needed, three sets of oil pan bolts

LOWER BALL JOINTS: I had a suspension house press my lower ball joints in. They said it's cleaner than DYI, and they did a great job, not a mark in the powder coat. They charged for it too, $65, but I'd do it again. Some things I prefer leave to the pros.

CONTROL ARMS: The suspension place says to torque the bushings to spec. unweighted. I saw a video that says differently, but board expertise welcome.

I asked them why one of my upper control arms doesn't move as freely as the other. He says he doesn't know, but they see it all the time and guessed it's the LH side that moves more freely.

I can say my LH control arm fits perfectly into the control arm studs and bracket as well.............IMO there's an engineering or production flaw that concerns the RH studs and/or bracket. But it works anyway, so GM let it slide.

I'll install the lowers tomorrow.

[69Tom]

Nice build with good notes. Subscribed!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

This is awesome. It's more a guide. For example, he doesn't differentiate 9/16" Vs 1/2", as in U-bolts. 85 ft. lb. seems pretty close regardless. His control arm bushings are a little high, but his might be original parts, Moog calls for less. http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com...que_specs.html

Found this here as well: Nice. Amazing how torque varies so much. Too many variables. They're quoting 7-16" and 9/16" U-bolts I bet.

For what it's worth, which isn't a lot, there's SO MANY suggestions how to torque the control arm U-bolt nuts. I read one place 75 ft. lbs for a 9/16" U-bolt, and that's where I ended up. I used anti-seize.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

While there's so much information out there, strikes me there's not much of a process on installing control arms. It could be so obvious I'm missing it. Here's what I did, for original suspension only. Input welcome, I'm new at this.

I installed the bushings with an even coat of grease. I hit the threads, the sleeve and the seal. I have NO IDEA if that's right and see nothing about using grease. But I do see where major auto chain says use dish liquid

I made sure the bushings would install all the way into the control arms without the shafts. That's Grumpy's suggestion, so if it's messed up it's his fault. Really, it's the right way.

I installed the bushings with the shafts mounted. Another one of Grump's suggestions. Lots of people say make sure your shaft is centered with the control arm. You don't have much choice if the shaft is already mounted. There's only what, a 16th-ish play in the control shafts front to back, and you can feel dead center on the locator post for the lower shaft. I left the shafts snug as I tightened the bushings, but it didn't seem to matter.

But you do want to tighten the bushings equally, or rather, as close as possible. I don't know if it's right, but I started counting rotations as soon as the bushing grabbed the shaft. The uppers had equal spacing from the bushing nut to the control arm throughout the process. I ended up tightening one bushing a bit more on every shaft to finish, but they were close. That's likely to be expected. The bushings went on nicely.......... after a few attempt's

The lowers worked out a pinch different, because there was not equal spacing to thread the control arm after one rotation. Perhaps because I started counting rotations on the shaft. No matter what I did the bushings wouldn't measure up. So I loosened one bushing and tightened the other a pinch equally, measured, and remarked the bushings.

The bushings should go in evenly without much torque required. If one is a little tuff back off a half turn or so, and come at it again. If one nearly seizes then start over again. The bushings will tell you if it's right or wrong after having benched it.

There's a ton of info. on where to torque 9/16" U-bolt nuts. I read one place 75 ft. lbs. on a C-10. That's where I ended up. I used anti-seize. Don't know if it's right, but that was a tough 75 pounds.

Apparently it's normal for a control arm, especially an upper arm to be more stiff than the other. Word is what they shouldn't do is tense up in one position or be very stiff. Both my LH arms move best, they budge with a finger. Maybe it's because I always do the RH first I'm kidding (hopefully).

And yeah, it really is a pickle trying to grease new parts through a zerk fitting, they're about locked down shut. Apparently they'll loosen up as things settle.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Got my oil pump and pan installed. Here's three clips you don't see every day. I'm not 100% sure the correct pan bolts are being used, but it's the best info. I've got. Hopefully I don't have to relocate, but I doubt I will. There's very little information on these, especially a BBC.

The transmission lines retainer seems pretty rare, and no it's not a battery cable clip. I pulled it approaching 30 years ago, just happened to keep it.

The original pan is 8", and I put the pick-up at 7.7/10", which leaves a happy medium between 1/4" and 3/8" from the bottom of the pan. Buddy of mine ran a bead around the pickup and pump.

Yeah the pan and block are off a shade. The painter is the best, but two completely set of situations and metals. I brushed the block with three coats of engine enamel, while he "matched" the color, primer'd and sprayed with automotive paint, and topped that with a clear coat. He did the valve covers as well, so they'll vary too. I'll get used to it. Looking forward to the day the engine compartment is done.

There doesn't seem to be much info. how to seal a one piece oil pan gasket. This is how I did it. Input always welcome.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Call me crazy, but I don't get the same shade variance affect when it's right side up, and the valve covers were sprayed with the pan.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I don't see much of a lines thread out there, and happy to say I'm basically done installing brake, fuel and vent lines. Other than a few tubes that had to be straighten, I bent what I needed to by hand. Sometimes it smarts too, but it works.

The replacements are In-Line Tubes. The vent and fuel tubes are original, as are the bolts and retainers.

No pics of the front brake hoses. The ones currently installed are temporary, because like every other reproduction I've found, the fittings for the brackets are wrong. Sometimes they're close, and the same brands offer one that's close to fitting, and another that's not so close. Even though the brackets are the same. Other than that seven images from the RH front to anticipated combination valve.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Last three

[weim55]

Curious... Could you post a SPID of what your truck actually is? I think I put it together by looking through thread, be great to know the details. This is a completely stock restoration, yes?

Great thread BTW!

Steve weim55 Colorado

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by weim55

Curious... Could you post a SPID of what your truck actually is? I think I put it together by looking through thread, be great to know the details. This is a completely stock restoration, yes?

Great thread BTW!

Steve weim55 Colorado

Thanks, yeah it's an "original" build. For the most part exceptions will be HEI, probably an electric choke, and losing the voltage regulator & TCS. Dropping it 4/2.5.

The truck had a step bumper and camper mirrors, but will have sport instead. SPID is below.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Other than that I installed the intake today with my boy's help, and boardmember help too.

Applied a very thin coat of Permatex on the head-side water ports, and a thin coat on the front and back of the manifold. And of course a 1/4" bead of sealant on front and back of the block.

We installed two studs on one head for alignment. Unless someone knows better you can only do this on one head because of the bolt angle. One was enough though, we installed two bolts to line-up the other side before completely dropping the intake.


"Correct" torque varies by source anywhere from 25-35 ft. lbs. Happy medium is 30 ft. lbs. and it felt right. Yeah, I have some touch-up paint to do, I didn't take the time to figure it out beforehand, so doing it the hard way.

I tried installing the intake with the engine hoist, but the hoist won't center over the engine because the legs on the engine stand prevent it. That was an issue when we pulled the block, but we made it work. Hopefully it won't be an issue when we install the block and transmission, which looks like that's on come Monday.

"Wish" me luck. Any tips tips on how to pull a block off an engine stand appreciated, because like I say, the hoist won't center because the engine stand is in the way. I may have to grease up sleeve on the stand and slide the mount off the stand with the engine. I am using a load equalizer.

[weim55]

Is the Custom Comfort option = Custom Deluxe? Factory carpet at that level?Planning on the original paint colors? Yours is the first truck I've ever seen with a factory installed step bumper. What does that look like, are they all the same for that year?

Steve weim55 Colorado

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by weim55

Is the Custom Comfort option = Custom Deluxe? Factory carpet at that level?Planning on the original paint colors? Yours is the first truck I've ever seen with a factory installed step bumper. What does that look like, are they all the same for that year?

Steve weim55 Colorado

I believe Z62 is added chrome bling, such as on the interior knobs and dome lamp. It has stainless trim around the windows, but if I recall, those are standard on Custom Deluxe.

I no longer have the step bumper. Not sure if they're all identical, but what's on my C20 might be the same. Funny you should mention it, the SPID for my C20 doesn't show a bumper. I wonder if the variance has something to do with medium Vs light duty trucks?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Got her in. That's a lot of work man, I'm tired. Lots of board suggestions and research. This is what we did.

Torqued the flex plate to crank to 65 Ft. lbs. and 1-2 drops blue thread locker. Bolts are grade 8, include start washer. I had to drill out two holes on the plate a pinch because the replacement is a hair off.

Torqued the bell housing to block to 35 ft. pounds. We used a little anti-seize, I'm a little weary of stripping out the engine block, I've already seen what a stripped motor mount bolt hole looks like. We used two studs to line things up. Very cool set of bolts, the originals are nice, same with the torque converter bolts.

Torqued the flex plate to the converter to 35 lbs. and 1-2 drops blue thread locker. I've read some variances on the torque, anywhere from 35-45 ft. pounds. 35 ft. pounds felt nice, though I may have been able to hit 45. I believe 45 lbs. is for grade 8. The original bolts are 5.

I like energy suspensions transmission mount and Classic Heartbeat's motor mounts a lot. All I can say about engine mounts is if it's set just right you may hear a clank when they're dropped onto the perches. The perches have to be loose as you're installing the mounts. One big bolt was a real challenge:metal, new parts.

Only thing unexpected was the converter had slipped forward at some point. I suspect it slipped when we joined the bell housing to the block. If understand right, if the converter is set correctly and unmoved, then you have to pull them forward a pinch to contact the flex plate. I figured well, if it's already to the flex plate where else is going to go, the trans/engine are secured........The converter spins with little effort, and the bolt holes were nuts, so I think we're good. Assuming the torque converter was set right to begin with, and 99/100 it was, because I couldn't reach behind it and felt three stages, then speaking for a BBC, it's 8.5/10" from the converter nut to the front of the bell housing. EDIT: Really I don't feel great about that torque converter. Going to disconnect and double check.


Other than that lots of leverage. My boys helped, and the oldest really came through. The truck is his birthright. He's doesn't like Ochre so much...............Yet.........................................BTW weim55, I forgot you asked. I spent decades thinking about color, it's tough. Light blue is beautiful, but not necessarily with black. Dark blue is super too, looks amazing with black. Hugger orange and black is the cat's meow IMO, but they're everywhere. All the original colors are nice, but there's something about ochre I always return to. It looks great with black, sharp interior and that, subtle color, love or hate it. What I'm changing is adding four section ochre/white and full belts.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Real trivial here, but I think I figured out how the stove pipes were mounted. This is an early take off set so hasn't been messed with much. At first I thought it took a tap screw from above, but judging by the hole, looks to me it's a bolt inserted from below. A #10-32 bolt fits right in and tightens up on it's own. Add a nut and maybe a lock washer of some sort it's good to go. I have some nice rivet screws with locking star nuts. Should work well:

EDIT: WRONG, my initial thought is right. You can tell by the protrusion on top the stove this took a tap screw. I ended up with #10-32, and a Kep-nut that are black oxide. OT: I like the black oxide on replacement hardware. Nicer appearance than factory zinc phosphate, and black zinc plated too, IMO.

[DeadheadNM]

The holes in the tin often seem enlarged. Were the OEM tin screws slotted or not?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Other than cooler lines and perhaps a small detail, the lower transmission is assembled. Did these come factory with a hose and breather valve on the breather tube? I found it without anything attached. Similar my differential breather. A hose was retained onto the frame, but no sign of a breather valve. Seems both should take a valve.

[DeadheadNM]

The valve embedded in a th350 is similar to those used to vent the differential. I don’t know th400s but a suspect there is a vent valve involved.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Por-15 "Caliper paint". Literal instructions are two coats rust prevention and two coats caliper paint. Hmm, hopefully the pads fit

Pump and box rebuilt/restored professionally, wasn't cheap. Upgraded turn ratio.

[Wyo George]

Very nice! I'm becoming a fan of Ochre, it was the factory color on my '71 C20 402/400 truck. My Dad bought the truck used in '73 then painted it dark brown/white two tone sometime in the late 70's because he hated the ochre. I'm torn between restoring it with the same colors my Dad painted it so that it would look like it did when I was a kid or painting it ochre like original or going red like I planned when I started tearing it down. Good thing is, I have a year or two before I'll be ready for paint.

Your build is great, love the documentation and details, thanks for sharing.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Yikes, I spent hours trying to locate my brake push rod assembly. Turns out they were in a box 2 feet from my computer

Anyway, maybe I can avoid that again by storing the brake assm. in one box.
That and and I took this pic. for just in case.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Met this guy who lives two miles from me that does ceramic, powder, paint, weld, metal fab. etc. etc. His shop is behind his house with a complete set-up and no expense spared. Anyway, he sent these pics. of my manifolds.

The first pic is of the RH manifold down to metal. I found it in complete ignorance early in my education. I was convinced the RH manifold on my truck was a replacement, because the part number wasn't in sequence with the left.........At any rate, GM did make a RH manifold that was in sequence (RH 45, LH 46). Same manifold as the more common 353030, only earlier production. Better shape than my 30, so worked out anyhow......Plus they match. They get NOS manifold bolts

[402Bowtie]

Any particular reason you sprayed the oil pan and valve covers vs. using the same brush-on por-15 engine paint? I'm guessing because the pan and covers had a smoother metal finish to begin with?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 402Bowtie

Any particular reason you sprayed the oil pan and valve covers vs. using the same brush-on por-15 engine paint? I'm guessing because the pan and covers had a smoother metal finish to begin with?

Yep. I tried brushing the Por-15 on the pan, wasn't quite what I was looking for, too much area, and yeah it's a smoother finish.

First time out tried spraying it on bolts. Got frustrated and decided to save the gun for professionals. He's a great painter and that, tried matching the color. Different paints and application with a clear coat, doesn't exactly match but oh well. Maybe I'll do something different with the valve covers at a later date, in a state of boredom.

Sure brushes nicely on cast iron though. I got to the point all I use are small foam applicators. They're only about 1/2" or so. Finished this the other day.....

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

More ceramic. The stove was hit thick, has a very nice heavy feel.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I rebuilt the rag joint. Doesn’t take much to get me excited, I really like my rag joint. It’s mostly original. Glad to have rebuilt as opposed a new one. The coupler and flanges were ceramic coated.

I was taking notes while trying to figure this out, realized images would be more better.