1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"

[G&R's57GMC]

dsraven :

Do you have pictures of that ?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

Those mounts look great. And…poster board here, too. Anytime I ask my wife to pick some up she’s like “What color?” I just laugh. Won’t matter about 10 minutes after you give it to me. Also…same on cutoff wheels. Sooo many cutoff wheels.

Thanks! Get whatever color is on sale. I did like that in this case the corrugated sort of represented the metals thickness and helped me visualize the overlap.

Hopefully I can get my plasma going again, granted I think I've done a fair bit of the sheet good work already.

[daveshilling]

Got the mounts completed, painted (poorly) and installed. Glad to finally be back to where I was a year go

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

Hopefully I can get my plasma going again, granted I think I've done a fair bit of the sheet good work already.

I lied, I immediately started cutting sheet metal again. At least this time it wasn't as thick.

I searched around and found no installations of the the LS DBW truck pedals into 55-59 trucks, so I had to whip out the ole' cardboard and hook my brain juice onto some sort of bracket to hold the Go Button.


I decided on this little number, it uses existing holes in the cab only, and although it does have a bit of flex when you try to push your foot through the firewall, it's plenty stiff for everyday pedal mashin'.

This places the pedal exactly at the stock frame mount brake pedal height. I figure I'll eventually chop both of these down once I get a feel for how much brake pedal travel I need, but for now I can heel-toe between 'em this way.

I'll slap a how-I-did-it over in the LS section in case anyone reading this ran out of cardboard and wants to skip to the cutting.

[daveshilling]

Swapped out the solenoid in the 4L60e with the Vette solenoid, a common upgrade. Not too terribly exciting, but I did get to see some dirty trans fluid that reminded me I should change the fluid and filter after I confirm that the trans works.

[daveshilling]

Bouncing around between trucks, I decided that I need to stop buying trucks and focus on the project I already have, and that I truly want to drive... not easy!!

Easing back into this project, I needed to handle some basics. First up is the battery box and location.

I made a drop down battery tray, although I made it for a Group 24 on accident and it should have been a Group 34. I will modify this and shorten the mounts.

when the bottom bolt is inserted, it's locked in the accompanying angle iron track on each side. When the bolt is removed, the top bolt can slide all the way down. The bottom bolt is easy to access, and easy to slide in place and rest there when you lift up the battery.

[youngrodder]

Very slick and simply solution. Beats shelling out the money for a drop down battery box from a manufacture.

Marc

[daveshilling]

A couple of detail photos..

Since this is made of angle iron, I needed to round the edge of one to slide in the other.

I also drilled them together, so that the offset created by nesting the pieces wouldn't mis-align the holes with the track.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Very slick and simply solution. Beats shelling out the money for a drop down battery box from a manufacture.

Marc

Thanks! I was tempted to just buy the answer and save the time, but I liked that I could build this around a specific battery size from Costco since I know I wont be buying an Optima.

[G&R's57GMC]

Happy New Year Dave .

Yea , Dave is finally back at it .
Very nicely done. What’s next ?

[daveshilling]

Continued working on the battery box, made some hold downs that function with a single 5/16" bolt. this constrains me to a size 34 battery, but the top and front are easily removed if needed and I can modify for another battery. It's a shame I wasn't using an Optima because there are lazer cut versions of this online for like $40.

Got my daughter to weld the back piece in for me, and I'm leaving the welds rather than grinding them. Her little signature!

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Happy New Year Dave .

Yea , Dave is finally back at it .
Very nicely done. What’s next ?

After I finish this battery box, I need to choose the location... I have a looong battery cable I got from a BMW at a Junkyard for only $7. It will reach darn near the rear bumper if I add a post in the frame and wire the starter to the frame separately.

Then I need to decide to either scoot the engine forward to clear the brake pedal, or cut the 3 bolt flange off of the TBSS drivers manifold and clock it, or weld in a 2 bolt manifold instead.

I didn't even know that welding an LS manifold with just plain ole MIG was possible, then Gregski showed me his custom versions all welded up...who knew?! So many Truck intakes have been discarded for nothing, I bet.

[daveshilling]

Made a little trip to the yard today and got some bits for future steps in the process...prices are high at pick-n-pull but still cheaper than other options!

T-Bird 2 Speed fan that apparently fits factory width radiators perfectly-$35.29

LS Power steering fluid cooler $25.59

I need to head back for Volvo fan relays, and I guess buy a radiator..

[daveshilling]

Looks like the PS Fluid cooler will mount perfectly to/beneath the typical front crossmember replacement we all do when the shackle mounts are removed.. The hard lines will come just beneath the radiator, and there's enough length to reach the low pressure tee as well as the low pressure pump return.

One more junkyard part made to fit!

The PS Pump high pressure inlet still might need a better solution to convert to -6AN, but that doesn't prevent me from making another PTFE line to the area. I think I'll run the low pressure with the leftover hose from the 20' kit even though it doesn't need it, because it will look cool.

Crossing my fingers that these don't leak! If they do, then at least I have perfect mock-ups to take to a hydraulic shop... just hand them my leaky lines and say "make these" lol.

[6DoF]

the cast headers i feel like would crack eventually if welded ... but maybe not since it should be a good cast like an axle housing. i used vette manifolds with a factory steel welded pipe that i cut n clocked for a Jeep.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

the cast headers i feel like would crack eventually if welded ... but maybe not since it should be a good cast like an axle housing. i used vette manifolds with a factory steel welded pipe that i cut n clocked for a Jeep.

I guess its a cast steel, not iron, so it can be done. I have no experience but have seen it done so maybe its an option

[6DoF]

randomly going back up the page some ... did the engine mounts get a drain hole?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

randomly going back up the page some ... did the engine mounts get a drain hole?

No, I don't intent to be taking on that much moisture...but not a bad plan!

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

No, I don't intent to be taking on that much moisture...but not a bad plan!

spraying oil, unexpected coolant decompression, even washing it ... lots of reasons to keep things from holding fluids. something i've had to fight before, just a heads up.

[daveshilling]

I finished the battery tray and installed it in the rear passenger fender well area. It's mostly under the bed, actually, but the idea is that the fender well gives me a bit more working space when the box is dropped down.

I think in practice, the truck will be low enough that any location not under the hood will be a pain.

After installing it, I notice that its not completely solid since its only mounted near the top of the frame....which means I'll likely have to remove it and add more steel somewhere lower.

[6DoF]

i appreciate that drop-down box, i like it.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

i appreciate that drop-down box, i like it.

Thanks! The mounting points could use design improvement, and anyone who wants to replicate this should take note and do a better job than I did before they paint it.

I was daydreaming about some sort of spring assist add-on as well, since this battery weighs a ton when you're in an awkward position. I'm sure in practice, I'll hardly ever need to drop it down since I'm running a remote battery post to the front.

[daveshilling]

I didn't really feel like uninstalling my battery box, so I'll deal with that another day.

Working towards my goal of getting the engine started:
I need power to the fuel pump...for that I need:
the rear wiring group down the drivers frame....for that I need:
EZ-Wiring kit installed...for that I need:
Mounting plate and a location.

I have made peace with the fact that I will not be smoothing out the firewall on this truck, just plugging the holes most likely. Keeping that in mind, I chose some existing holes in the firewall to hold my fuse box and officially begin the chassis wiring process.

I used a steel plate and welded 3 nuts to it so it stands off the firewall and allows room for hardware between the plate and firewall that is needed to mount the fuse box to the plate.


The fuses are tucked high, but when you sit on the cab step you can see/access them.

[daveshilling]

I routed the rear wires through the kick panel and out, right above the hinge.

One step closer to attempting to fire up my disappointing 5.3-thats-really-a-4.8 and seeing if its a turd. If it runs, the plan may change to 4.8 turbo, blow it up, then 6.0. Trying to resist adding another year to my build by fussing with the engine, but maybe it runs like crap and I'll have to replace it anyways!

[OKGMC4]

In the beginning I thought a 5.3 would be enough. Then I thought a rebuilt 6.0 with flat tops and a cam would be enough. Now I'm putting the 5.3 back in with a turbo and a 4L80. Probably, to my wife's dismay, I'll end up with a twin turbo 6.0 running a Nissan GTR all-wheel drive system in the future. lol