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#101 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
We were able to buy a Pullmax P7 since the last update. We had heard about a local Pullmax awhile back and had inquired about it but they weren't interested in selling it at the time. The owner contacted us a few weeks ago and said that they were ready to sell it so we made the deal and moved it to the shop. I'm looking into VFD's to run it at the moment, and have started cleaning it up. It came with a fence, circle cutting attachments, louver dies, center and offset tool holders, doming dies, nibbler dies, slotting dies, flanging dies, a beading die, and an offset flange dies, and a really neat dovetail extension that bolts to the side and swings out of the way when not in use. This will be a big help in allowing me to expand my metal fab capabilities.
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Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc |
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#102 |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Leonardtown, MD
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Nice score on the dovetail extension!! Don't see too many of them.. Quite a few dies too..
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#103 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Bed looks great John..!!..
Nice addition with the new tools..
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#104 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
I'm guessing that you didn't just pick that up and set it on the trailer, LOL. That looks heavy.
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#105 | ||
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Location: Anderson SC
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Quote:
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It's a little under two tons. We lifted it up and bolted 8' skids to the feet, then used the winch to pull it onto the trailer. To get it in the shop I used a snatch block to pull it off the trailer, then a set of car casters to roll it into position. It was easier to move than expected.
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#106 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Did some minor touch up and shot a few coats of Slick Sand.
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Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc Last edited by theastronaut; 09-08-2020 at 12:49 PM. |
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#107 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Wow...that looks flawless..
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#108 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Leonardtown, MD
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Quote:
Buddy of mine worked at somewhat local military base in their machine shop, they had a pullmax with the dovetail extension like that. He said they used it once for about 10' diameter disc they needed to make, other than that it wasn't used much in the 25+ years he was there.. Bed floor looks awesome.. looks like you picked up an NOS piece someplace.. ![]()
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#109 | |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Thanks! It's not quite flawless yet, there's always more sanding to do
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I made a block from three pieces of plexiglass that can flex to fit the sides of the ribs and flatten the bottom at the same time. All of the ribs are at slightly different heights so all of the sides are at different angles; I couldn't shape a durablock that fit all of the ribs like I did with the last F100, and it wasn't practical to make one durablock per rib. ![]()
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#110 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
I like how you always come up with a solution for every task. You got talent.
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#111 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Getting deep into the details of the bed floor... The stamping details left a lot to be desired. The ends of the ribs were all different; the angle of the "ramp" was uneven from rib to rib and the radii of rounded edges were inconsistent. Having all of the surrounding surfaces blocked dead flat really makes this stand out, so I got out a foam sanding block and 180 to round everything over and sanded until the guide coat was gone so it wasn't as noticeable.
Just kidding! I scuffed up the ends, masked out the areas that were already blocked to the correct shape, then skim coated the ends to reshape them. Inconsistent shape of the "ramp" part of the ribs. ![]() Masked and scuffed with 180 to prep for filler. ![]() One down. ![]() I only did a couple at a time so I could do all the shaping while the filler was soft and sanded easily. This slightly clogs the paper so I use a brass brush to clear the out the stuck on filler. The tape on the end prevents the block from digging into the surrounding areas that are already flat and shaped correctly. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I used a longer block made from 1/2"x1/2" aluminum to block across a few ramps at a time so they're all at the same angle. ![]() Final product- flat flats and sharp, even edges. I'll slightly round over the edges when I go 180 grit to smooth out the 80 grit scratches. ![]()
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#112 | |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
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69 C10 SWB -- Left to me by a loving father. Finishing the build we never got the chance to do together |
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#113 |
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Location: Anderson SC
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Filler hole details. The circle around the filler opening was sanded flat and level with the base of the floor between the ribs, but the transition from the flat circle to the rounded parts of the ribs needed truing up. I used a compass to establish a perfect circle for both the lower and upper edges of each rib, then filled and sanded until the sides of the ribs were the correct shape. It's hard to sand the inside of the corners to the correct shape though, so I pulled fine line tape and used a razor blade to shave the inside corners to the correct profile.
The end of the razor was taped to prevent that side from cutting what was already correctly shaped. The other end is up against the fine line tape; this shows how much the inside corner is off from only sanding. ![]() After shaving down the raised corner all the way to the edge of the fine line tape. ![]() Then the tape was flipped and the other half of the inside corner was shaved to the correct shape. ![]() This left sharp angles at the transition between the straight edge of the ribs and the rounded edges around the filler neck. ![]() Calipers used to establish a smooth transition shape. ![]() ![]() ![]() Finished transition. ![]()
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#114 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
John , your high level of detail always amazes me...very nice work...
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#115 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Amazing work and detail!!
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#116 | |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Quote:
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Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc |
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#117 |
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Beebe, AR
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
That thing is gonna be so slick a mosquito couldn't land on it without sliding off!
Great work all the way around. Can't wait to see the final product.
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#118 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
You notice things so small that most of us wouldn't even see.
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#119 |
Proprietor of Dale's Corner
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
I agree, the attention to detail is amazing!!
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#120 | ||
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Quote:
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I started the metal modifications on the dash. There will be an air vent taking the place of the original ignition switch, so the switch needs to be moved over below the gauge cluster. The AC controls will be on the right side under the cluster so the original holes need to be filled in. ![]() ![]() ![]() This side needs three 9/32" holes so I'll weld in a solid panel and redrill new holes. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I made a new switch opening on a larger panel for less welding. I haven't decided if I want to try to press the new panel with the same indentions as the old switch holes or if I'll just graft them in, it'll probably be faster to just graft the existing pieces. ![]() ![]() The speaker grill conveniently had round holes stamped in the corners which let me use a hole saw to make round corners for the new panel being welded in. Round edges on patch panels keeps the panel from having concentrated shrinkage on the weld seam in two directions like a 90* corner has so it's easier to planish out the weld seam later. ![]() ![]() The dash was low on one side of the opening compared to the shape across the rest of the dash, so that was reshaped before welding in the new panel. Correct shape- ![]() Low side: ![]() Straightened: ![]() New panel made slightly oversized, then clamped in place to scribe the trim line. ![]() ![]() Minimal gaps. ![]() ![]() After grinding and initial planishing. ![]() ![]()
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#121 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Very nice John...
How did you go about fixing the low side of the dash?
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#122 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Beautiful work John!
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#123 | |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Quote:
Thanks Robert!
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Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc |
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#124 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
I think you are magic. How do you have time to do stuff like this and work on your Fiesta too?
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#125 |
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Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Thanks John...so to raise the panel , did you hold the dolley on the bottom side pushing up, and hammer on the top?..I've had some similar stuff I've worked my butt off trying to fix, so I had to ask...
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