72 K20 been parked for 31 years!!

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Been a very long time since I have heard of someone rebuilding a water-pump. I kinda forgot you could do that.

Tranny looks Clean!!

First time seeing that one myself.

Nice work!

[bmfm64]

Lookin good! Keep chippin away at it!

[VA72C10]

Nice progress! And good deal on re-doing the stock pump to keep it original! It's a cool truck that deserves that kind of attention.

[Vintage Windmills]

Thanks guys. I've got good news, the engine block is good to go! Magnafluxed and blasted, hot tanked and will be bored 0.030 when they can get to it.

Now lets change gears and talk about the tcase. (not sure if thats pun intended or not?). I've been working on lining up parts and tearing down the tcase. I got a full SKF rebuild kit with high quality bearings for a really good price. While I only needed one or two bearings, I determined to just get this kit since it was only a little more than the 2 bearings + gasket kit. Got it all torn apart except for the middle gear shaft that seems to be pressed in. Also those press in plugs in 3rd pic (like freeze plugs) are not included in my rebuild kit, I'm wondering if I can reuse the ones I have or maybe buy new ones separately from a place like mcmaster carr? Last pic shows what all is included in the kit. No chinese, tiawanese, or korean bearings or seals. I was pleasantly surprised to see even the needle bearings are in the kit. Here are some pics:

[hgs_notes]

Check part # QU50162 for the soft plugs on the shifter shafts, about halfway down the page. They also have the t-case to adapter gasket if you still need that...
http://www.quad4x4.com/New_Process_NP205_Parts.html

[hgs_notes]

This thread may come in handy for you also...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=469726

[Vintage Windmills]

Progress is slowed due to needing some tools and having other responsibilities to spend time with g/f at social events and go to chicago for work. Also working on a wooden wheeled windmill and trying to do a little P90X style workout to stay in shape. I'm supposed to be machining a bunch of new hubs on the side also. I have a bad habit of taking on too many projects. This is in addition to working 50hrs a week and commuting an hour a day for my day job. Ok, I'll quit complaining now-thanks for letting me vent.

Hopefully lining up engine parts tomorrow, machine work is done but need to get pistons and check if their finish bore is close enough. Originally they said to bring the pistons in before they could finish however today they said its done and most pistons these days are well machined. Well they just confirmed what size pistons to buy today. I am now into the engine block $700 since the pitting was a little deeper than they thought and they decided to sleeve. Also, i think they took care of the cam bearings. I guess I'm going to have to get the pistons and then check them vs the block before it leaves the shop. If they charge extra because its off I'm going to be mad. This is supposed to be a high quality shop and I think it is but it seems lame to call it done without having the pistons.

Back to the Tcase- got it all disassembled but then got stuck due to a couple specialty tools. Had to order a large snap ring pliers and 1-1/8 thin wall socket, still waiting for them to get here. Found my front output shaft was scored pretty bad so I picked up a NOS one off ebay for $50.



Pics of tcase stuff:

[hgs_notes]

Now aren't you glad I decided to just sleeve mine? $700 for block machine work seems a bit high but I've never had a block I had to sleeve either. It better be right for the cost though. Once you get all the parts and the time to get it all together you will have a much more satisfactory experience with the build. All the chasing around for parts and waiting is the hard part.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Now aren't you glad I decided to just sleeve mine?

Yep! There was a little surface rust on the NOS one but it came right off with fine steel wool. I had inspected the rear one and it looked good so I guess I assumed this one would be good too.. wrong! It is surprising though when you think about it, the front shaft is only turning part of the time the rear one is so why isn't the rear in the same condition? I wonder if its due to the fact the front picks up more debris since the front wheels kick up dirt near it?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

I wonder if its due to the fact the front picks up more debris since the front wheels kick up dirt near it?

Bingo dingdingdingdingding. That and it has that little flange around it that holds stuff between it and the seal area.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Bingo dingdingdingdingding. That and it has that little flange around it that holds stuff between it and the seal area.

Yep, I'm thinking the flanges might do more harm than good. Especially the main driveshaft one. Nothing shoots at the seal from the rear and todays trucks don't use them.

[Vintage Windmills]

Snap ring pliers finally arrived so I got a fair amount done on the tcase on saturday including scrubbing every part in solvent and blowing off. I want this thing clean on the inside with these new bearings in place. I just need to figure out a magnet to use, I know they did in later 205's. I did hit a snag with the shims on the idler shaft though. These are required to get the right preload on the tapered roller bearings. My np205 had 0.020" worth but I found I had to add another 0.020 to get the recommended 0.000" to 0.002" clearance. I had to order some and while I couldn't find the small OD like original, I am confident these new ones are ok since they still allow a good gap for fluid to flow through bearing. These may be included in some overhaul kits but they weren't in mine. Below is a pic where I checked this preload in the vise with a long bolt and dial indicator. Its too hard to slide the cups on and off the idler shaft and you don't want to find out in the case. This is critical if you are replacing these bearings. Feels good to have the big gear internal needles (128) in place with the snap rings on. Downhill run from here on the tcase. As you can see, I am going through everything with a fine tooth comb and assuming every single part needs to be inspected or replaced. NO bolt will be unturned on the drivetrain.

[hgs_notes]

Mine only had it on the front yoke.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on your tcase.

[Vintage Windmills]

Picked up the engine block, oil pan and manifold yesterday! Feels good to have them home. I had to pick up the block and set in the shop by myself- wasn't too bad but it might be heavier than the np205. The shop ended up doing the following to the block:

Cleaned, blasted, magnafluxed, bored 0.040, checked main bearing alignment, verified deck was within 1.5 thousandths for flatness, installed cam bearings, brass freeze plugs, all other plugs, and painted it. They also hot tanked the pan and manifold and blasted and painted those. I am pretty satisfied but I still need to check vs pistons. They bored 0.0005" over 0.040 which is the start of the required range for the molly pistons I am picking up so all should be good there pending confirming measurements.

Going to visit the engine guru in Iowa on saturday to pick up the pistons and the rest of the parts package he has put together for me. More details to come on that but it will be a nice little package that gives stock look on the outside, original block, yet all the power, efficiency and reliability of a more modern engine. It will have a Comp cams roller cam setup, Vortec improved heads, and ported/polished cast intake. Looks like I'll have $3k in the engine with parts and machining if I do all the assembly. Heres the stuff from machine shop.

[72GMCK-2500]

Great progress! keep up the good work

[Vintage Windmills]

Here are some pics of it all back together and painted. The red oxide primer was the closest I could find to original. I am pleased with the look of the bare aluminum covers since they were sandblasted lightly. Thinking I'll clear coat the entire thing after I reproduce the yellow factory chalk markings (or was it yellow paint?).
Even got the trans adapter new bearing and seals in place and installed. Been working on figuring out engine details also.

[Vintage Windmills]

Also wanted to share some of the additional O rings I added along the way to help make t case as leak proof as possible. Also I used blue locktite on all threads so hopefully fasteners wont have seepage either.

R22 o ring on the center shaft between the washer and shaft.
R14 o ring on speedo drive shaft nut
RTV under washer and R11 on top off front output yoke nut.
R05's under detent spring plugs (top of case)

[Palf70Step]

Excellent work. all I have ever seen under any of the 4WDs I had was grease, mud and red clay.

[VA72C10]

Looks great!

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice additional sealing resolutions and nice engine pieces!

[Vintage Windmills]

Thanks guys. Now the focus turns to getting the engine together.

Here are the parts-
Original block, crank, valve covers, intake, rams horns but everything else is new and upgraded. Vortec improved heads, Full roller cam setup, mahle pistons, Eagle rods, Erson rocker arms, etc. I had the original crank balanced and weight matched pistons and rods. Again, the goal is a truck that delivers smooth power with good idle while making ~360 ft lbs torque for towing and being capable of reliably going across the country, all while looking stock on the outside. What do you think of the components? Now lets see if I can get all this together the right way......

[Vintage Windmills]

More pics

[VA72C10]

Nice parts!!!

[oldblue1968chevy]

Nice.

so are you giong to run centerbolt valve covers or use an adaptor to run perimeter covers or what