LockDoc's "Low Budget", "Low Maintenance" Project Thread

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by cj847

Quote- I also have a van tilt column that I am going to use in this project so I will get it ready to install in the next couple of days. I need to shorten the intermediate shaft for it and move the NSS down lower on the column.

I didn't know you could move the NSS, or at least not without a ton of work. However, I have a suggestion for you. You can tap NSS and BU lights off of the transmission wiring. That is what I did on my Willys with an LS swap. I bought the cheapest Ididit column (floor shift, key in dash, no NSS). You do need to use a relay to trigger the starter as you don't want to run high amperage thru the 20 gauge transmission wiring. Also the BU and NSS are more accurate this way (can't get out of adjustment).

I am not sure that the allison transmission uses the same connector as 4L60/4L80 but here is a diagram to get you started if you want to do it.

Here is a complete write-up on using the van column including moving the NSS. It isn't too bad to do. I have done a couple of them.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=147927

Thanks for the tip and visuals. I saved the picture. I will check the Allison wiring diagrams and see if I can figure this out. That sounds like a viable solution for the BU lights and NSS.

LockDoc
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[LockDoc]

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I started working on the van tilt the other day. It needed quite a bit of cleaning, prep, and a new lower bearing. and I needed to shorten the intermediate shaft to accommodate the longer van column main shaft.

Member "cj847" mentioned in his post above about using the NSS and reverse light function from the transmission wire loom. I checked the specs for the Allison and it actually uses a switch located on the side of the transmission and integrated with the shift linkage. I am going to try and use this instead of the column mounted stock NSS. I may go ahead and cut the tube to move the van NSS down in case something doesn't workout with the Allison components. It isn't that hard to do and it may save me from having to pull the column back out later. I hope to get that done and get it painted tomorrow, and get the column installed tomorrow or Sunday. I need to get the defroster duct installed before I set the gauge cluster in, it makes it a lot easier.

LockDoc

[pjmoreland]

Will you be able to tie that van cruise button on the turn signal lever into the ECU somehow to get cruise control working?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Will you be able to tie that van cruise button on the turn signal lever into the ECU somehow to get cruise control working?

No, because the column fell over after I painted it and broke the handle off of the lever. It upset me, but luckily that was the only damage and I wasn't planning on using it. I just hated to see it get broken. I am going to use a later one with the multi function cruise.

LockDoc

[pjmoreland]

That sounds disappointing. Makes sense that you'd need full controls though to take full advantage of the modern cruise control. I've thought about trying to add a cruise control system from an 80s S10, which would be able to use the style of turn signal lever that Dakota Digital sells. The challenge would be to figure out how to replace the speed sensor that those pickups had built into the back of the speedometer.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....prod/prd50.htm

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

That sounds disappointing. Makes sense that you'd need full controls though to take full advantage of the modern cruise control. I've thought about trying to add a cruise control system from an 80s S10, which would be able to use the style of turn signal lever that Dakota Digital sells. The challenge would be to figure out how to replace the speed sensor that those pickups had built into the back of the speedometer.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....prod/prd50.htm

From what I read, if you use the Dakota Digital lever that you have to use relays to change the "Normally Open" state they use to a "Normally Closed" state. What I was reading was a little dated so maybe they now have one that is NC. I don't know.

LockDoc

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

From what I read, if you use the Dakota Digital lever that you have to use relays to change the "Normally Open" state they use to a "Normally Closed" state. What I was reading was a little dated so maybe they now have one that is NC. I don't know.

LockDoc

That sounds like a bit of a headache.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

That sounds like a bit of a headache.

That's what I thought too.

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

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I installed the van tilt and gauge cluster today. I am going to have to pull the column back out because when I installed it I moved it down so the steering wheel would be a little closer to the dash. I used one of the two factory locator slots in the mast jacket and it moved it down too far. If I use the lower slot it would move it up too far. I think I will just drill a hole for the locator tang instead of cutting a new slot since I know exactly where it has to be now. The steering wheel is not going to stay, I just put it on there for the picture. I will either use a '67-'68 wheel that I have, or get one of the new 15" stock type wheels.

LockDoc

[rickcdewitt]

Hey doc with that 02 you may want to change the intake gaskets as a prevetative measure while its easy to get to.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by rickcdewitt

Hey doc with that 02 you may want to change the intake gaskets as a prevetative measure while its easy to get to.

Thanks Rick,

I think I will do that. I already changed the crank sensor before I installed the engine. Another problem area. I'm pretty sure it had been changed before, it came out pretty easy.

LockDoc

[CG]

Coming along nicely, and quick!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by CG

Coming along nicely, and quick!

Thanks Mark.

I worked on cleaning up the cab lights today. I am going to use the Yankee 77's.

I bought the lights from member "countr" (Russ) couple of years ago. I got lucky, when I opened the boxes there were a couple of original GM installation instruction sheets in them. That will make it easy. Can't have a C30 without cab lights...

LockDoc

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I installed the van tilt and gauge cluster today. I am going to have to pull the column back out because when I installed it I moved it down so the steering wheel would be a little closer to the dash. I used one of the two factory locator slots in the mast jacket and it moved it down too far. If I use the lower slot it would move it up too far. I think I will just drill a hole for the locator tang instead of cutting a new slot since I know exactly where it has to be now. The steering wheel is not going to stay, I just put it on there for the picture. I will either use a '67-'68 wheel that I have, or get one of the new 15" stock type wheels.

LockDoc

That column would be fine for me where it's at but I'm sure your arms would be stretched out with it like that. Nice work on it.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That column would be fine for me where it's at but I'm sure your arms would be stretched out with it like that. Nice work on it.

The problem was that the shift collar was actually underneath the cluster bezel and rubbing on it. I moved it up so I have about 1 1/2 inch clearance on it now..

I usually have the seat adjusted all the way back with the stock steering wheel. Now I can slide the seat forward a little. I think I am going to use a '67-'68 wheel on it and they have a little more dish to them also.

LockDoc

[Yerboogieman]

That's awesome. The only thing that would make it better is if it were a crew cab. I wanted to do an 8.1 swap into my Suburban but I couldn't find one anywhere.

[regan wilson]

Lookin good Doc.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Yerboogieman

That's awesome. The only thing that would make it better is if it were a crew cab. I wanted to do an 8.1 swap into my Suburban but I couldn't find one anywhere.

Fortunately I don't need a crew cab any more... .. The 8.1's are pretty easy to find around here.

Originally Posted by regan wilson

Lookin good Doc.

Thanks guys!

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

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I worked on the cab lights today but I only got 3 of them installed. The used ones I have are in pretty good shape but I still disassembled everything and cleaned them inside and out. Also cleaned the bulb sockets and connectors.

I didn't take the camera out with me so pictures tomorrow.

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

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Finished Mounting the cab lights today. I couldn't decide whether to mount the outboard ones straight or on an angle. After looking at some pictures on here I decided to mount them straight. I had one light that all of the chrome had come off of so I disassembled it and used it for the setup. Without the wire and rubber base on it, it was real easy to tell where the light fit the curvature of the roof the best.

The assemblies that are on there now are not the good ones. I used these to get all of the holes drilled and lights mounted, to make sure of my spacing. I will remove these and run the wiring and install the good ones tomorrow.

LockDoc

[Dieselwrencher]

That turned out nice! I like them as you don't see much of them out on the road anymore.

[Ol Blue K20]

They look great!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That turned out nice! I like them as you don't see much of them out on the road anymore.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

They look great!

Thanks Guys. I didn't get to work on it much today. We will see what tomorrow brings....

LockDoc

[LT7A]

Lots of cool progress. I like how you're buildng almost the entire thing out of parts you already had.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Lots of cool progress. I like how you're buildng almost the entire thing out of parts you already had.

Thanks! Lord knows I have a lot of parts. I'm just trying to use up a few of them...

LockDoc