S10 Swap how to

[HUSSEY]

Awesome post!

I'd like to share the mount design and dimensions I came up with. I put these together with advice I got from other builders on this forum (jeffs51chevy, av8tr33337 aka Bartman, 99toLife, and Skymangs) They're made primarily from 4x4 in. 11 GA tubing.

The front mount is placed 2 in. behind the oval hole on the frame, I can thank Bartman for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdgYy5YtW8k.

The center to center distance between the front and rear mounts on mine is 36-1/4 in.

I'm running 2 in. drop spindles on the front and 2 in. drop blocks in the back (started with 3 in. blocks but ended up with 2 in. blocks). That puts my running boards nearly level with a slight rake, about 1/2 in. to the rear. The front bumper sits 5-1/2 in. from the ground. Having driven it around I think that it is as low as I would want to go with a static drop.

With these swaps, getting the cab placed properly is critical. Once you know you've got the cab where you want it, getting the front clip, bed, and running boards in place is easy since they are placed off the cab.

There is no need to shell out $1,000+ for a conversion kit that really doesn't get you that far when this will get you the same distance for $100 or so in materials.





Downloadable PDFs which are a bit clearer are available at the following links:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing









From the top of the frame to the bottom of the cab floor support measures 4 in.





I ran an 11 GA 2x1 rectangular tubing between the two rear cab mounts and bolted to the bottom of the floor.











Of course more pics are in my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=664837

[skymangs]

Thank you.

Best pics I have off the cuff like that. The mounts are tacked on, but in the correct place. I run a bead along the top of the frame (side to side), top of the frame (front to back) on the inner lip, and vertically on the frame (top to bottom). Total of 5 beads per mount. Should be plenty strong!

[skymangs]

Ahhhhh... Gotcha. the front mounts use the stock AD mounting holes. Rears are pretty easy. It differs slightly from 47-50 and 51-55.

50 and older; I make 2 3/16" plates that will weld to the bottom of the cab. They should be at least 6"x6". With one edge curved to fit the cab corner. Then I weld them to the underside with 8 1" stitch welds. Once I have all the body mounts in place and bolts dropped into the front mounts, I drill a centered 3/16" pilot hole from the bottom to place the rear mount holes in the floor. then I open it up to 1/2" from the top. This hole should be near the center of your "plates" that were welded to the bottom. Make more sense?

On 51 and later, with the shackle rear mounts. your rear cab stands should be inline with your factory shackle bolt hole once the front mount bolts are dropped through. Simply open the rear hole up to 1/2" and drop the bolt through.

[skymangs]

Good, just remember to tack your brackets on first, then fit the cab. When you are happy with cab fitment, then seam them in.

[fine69]

TTT....been watching this. Wanted it closer to the top.

[CaliforniaDaddy]

skymangs, How much of the front of the frame needs to be cut? I measured about 9 5/16" back.

[IWanna49]

Chris,

I remember from another thread someone mentioning that you need to strip the s10 frame before trying to weld to it because of the wax base on it. Do you do that or is it ok to just grind down to bare metal.

Awesome thread and help!!

Greg

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by CaliforniaDaddy

skymangs, How much of the front of the frame needs to be cut? I measured about 9 5/16" back.

I cut mine just in front of the most forward steering box bolt and make the other side match it. This gives the most room for grille clearance and bumper mounting, see below:

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by IWanna49

Chris,

I remember from another thread someone mentioning that you need to strip the s10 frame before trying to weld to it because of the wax base on it. Do you do that or is it ok to just grind down to bare metal.

Awesome thread and help!!

Greg

Check post #21 on this thread.

[User Error]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I also delete the courtesy lights (under dash) and remove the stupid key in/lights on buzzer. The dash cluster plug is a pain, but pin-outs are available on the internet. See attached Pin-out for 83-93 S10's. Obviously the oil, temp, and voltmeter wires are the sending unit wires for aftermarket gauges, the left/right turn, bright ind. and SES wires must be hooked to individual lamps, etc. If you do not have basic wiring proficiency, do not attempt this! get professional help.

I'm a bit confused... I'm going to be adding Dolphin Gauges to my 50 here soon... I'd like to use as much of the stock harness as possible... So from your post if I'm reading right you can just hook up the oil, temp, and volt wires directly to aftermarket gauges and use the oem Senders? (mine OEM senders are currently out and laying on the intake causing some ECM/TBI issues Manual senders are in the oil and temp locations) (Fixing someone elses build that's how they left it) Also can you cover a little about the Fuel and Speedo senders vs oem wiring or rewiring? Thanks... you're a ton of help man... I so wish you were closer I'd get you to build me a couple more trucks...

[IWanna49]

Ahh..knew it was on here somewhere, I overlooked it. Thanks, Clay!

Originally Posted by Clay54

Check post #21 on this thread.

[skymangs]

Sorry all, been kinda busy lately.

Iwanna49; Yes! Use Muriatic acid to cut the wax off the frame before you grind it! I detailed it earlier in this thread. If you just grind the metal, you will only work the wax into the pores. The wax will cause poor weld penetration, as well as bead you welds up, making them more prone to cracking.

User Error; I use the factory wiring for electronic gauges. There is no guarantee that the stock senders are going to be compatible with your gauges. I would replace the stock sender with the senders included. But yes, your voltmeter should work, your speedometer should work as well. For temp and oil pressure, use what comes with the kit. Also, Dolphin may use 0-240 ohm fuel sender, I'm not 100% sure. you may find that you will have to use their sender in your fuel tank. Have you already purchased Dolphin gauges? If not, I would recommend looking for another option. I haven't been too happy with the one's I've installed. Lots of "out of the box" issues, like gauges that don't work.

CaliforniaDaddy; BlueJeep beat me to the punch. Just in from of the forward steering box bolt is where I cut mine as well. By the way Bluejeep, that pic looks suspiciously like a Ford Explorer trans cooler you have mounted there!

[BlueJeep]

Nope, I bought it before you shared that money saving tip! It's a B&M unit.

http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70268/...oductId=758370

[User Error]

Originally Posted by skymangs

User Error; I use the factory wiring for electronic gauges. There is no guarantee that the stock senders are going to be compatible with your gauges. I would replace the stock sender with the senders included. But yes, your voltmeter should work, your speedometer should work as well. For temp and oil pressure, use what comes with the kit. Also, Dolphin may use 0-240 ohm fuel sender, I'm not 100% sure. you may find that you will have to use their sender in your fuel tank. Have you already purchased Dolphin gauges? If not, I would recommend looking for another option. I haven't been too happy with the one's I've installed. Lots of "out of the box" issues, like gauges that don't work.

Yeah I've already purchased them... My wonder about using the included senders is the ecm will no longer be getting info from the alternate senders. I emailed Dolphin and they said the fuel is a 90ohm if memory serves... I haven't asked about the temp and oil pressure... Currently the OEM temp sensor is laying on the intake with a mechanical sender in it's place... it's reading some info but not accurate i'm sure... if I unplug it the computer gets rich and stalls the truck... really hope i can get the oem senders back in the ports and use them with these gauges... what brand have you had luck with using all the oem wiring and senders?

[Old Crow]

Back when EFI first came out a lot of the Chevy trucks had 2 temp senders. One for the gauge and another for the computer. Even now, most of my Vintage Air installations that use electric fans have 2 temp sensors.

[CaliforniaDaddy]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Next is the placement of those cab stands.

Front cab stands - measure 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame (right behind front wheel). Scribe a vertical line. This will mark the rear edge of the front cab stand.

Rear cab stands - measure 10 1/2" from the rear of the 5/8" round frame hole, or 33 1/4" behind the rear edge of the front cab stand. Scribe a vertical line, this will be the front edge of your rear cab stand.

Note. If you are putting together a longbed (123" wb.) use the 33 1/4" measurement for your rear cab stand.

just want to make sure this applies to 117.9 in (2,995 mm) (reg. cab long bed chassis) I have a 1996 Chassis.

[skymangs]

User Error; The TBI motor uses 2 temp senders. The one on the passenger head is for the gauge only, The one on the intake is for the ECM. Replace the one on the head with your new sending unit. The ECM doesn't read oil pressure, so you are good to replace that sender anyway.

So, to re-cap, leave the temp sensor in the intake, replace the one in the head with the Dolphin supplied one. Replace the Oil pressure sender with the Dolphin supplied one. Should work like a charm.

There is also a plugged sensor hole on the driver side head (near the exhaust manifold) you can use if you don't want to mess with the original ones.

[skymangs]

Front cab stands - measure 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame (right behind front wheel). Scribe a vertical line. This will mark the rear edge of the front cab stand.

Rear cab stands - measure 10 1/2" from the rear of the 5/8" round frame hole

CaliforniaDaddy; yup, If you are using a long bed, short cab, chassis, the above measurements are what to use.

[rocks23]

Skymangs, this thread is going to be a lifesaver when it comes time to do my '50. Looks like all is pretty clearly explained. SUBSCRIBED!!

[skymangs]

Thank you, I hope it will be a helpful tool to lots of folks.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Thanks for all your work on all this skymangs, this is now a "sticky"

[oossuuu754]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Thanks for all your work on all this skymangs, this is now a "sticky"

[iowaboynca]

Whoever suggested this be a sticky is a bona fide genius!

[iowaboynca]

Oh, and Congratz!!!

You do great stuff and your explanations are very clear and descriptive. Congratz again!!!

[oldman3]

Hey Chris, congrats on the sticky for a great thread...Jim