tjs 72 Blazer Build

[hemi43]

Thanks for the PM !! Nice to see you're not that far away considering the great white North is huge.
Dan

[tjsblazer]

Managed to have an hour or so truck time today. Got the fuel tank install finished up getting the straps on.
When I first looked at the Assembly manual I thought it said 100-130 lbs ft. I couldn't believe it was that much torque on the 3/8" square u-bolt that holds the straps. After I hand tightened them I went back and checked and it was actually lbs in !!! Big difference. That is like 8-10 lbs ft. I hate when they do that.

[tjsblazer]

I also rechecked my header fit. I had done this once before when I originally was test fitting the NV4500 transmission. It did require just a little frame clearance primarily on the top flange. This was because I had moved the Engine 1.875" forward to get it where I needed for the transmission.

Just double checked now that everything was in for good to be sure. Nice clearance everywhere.

Rh side:

[NKorando]

Hey TJ, hope you get this I was checking out pic #97-98 and seen you are using the ORD style shackles, what bushings or spacers are you using between the leaf and the shackle?
Thanks

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by NKorando

Hey TJ, hope you get this I was checking out pic #97-98 and seen you are using the ORD style shackles, what bushings or spacers are you using between the leaf and the shackle?
Thanks

I bought all the bushings and hardware from ORD also. They sell them in kits for both front and rear. If you give them a call they can set you up. I ended up using their greaseable bolt kits. I have found the price for you get competitive. Cheers.

[tjsblazer]

Lh side is just as nice:

[tjsblazer]

These Headers are a TriY design made by Stan's Headers. The shop foreman is familiar with our era of trucks. I bought them bare purposely in case I had to make a small tweak. Turns out they fit great. I think the only reason I had to clearance the frame slightly was because of the Engine move as I said. The frame gets a little narrower as you move forward.

I'll get them Ceramic coated locally now.

Quality is top notch. I had both Doug's and Thorley's sets to try and the Stan's were definitely the cream of the crop.

Besides having great plug clearance everywhere (Heads are angle plug design). Check out the nice large square port to match the AFR heads. The other brands I tried were oval which severely bottle-necked the exhaust outlet on each side.

[DeadheadNM]

Nice progress - looking great!

[IronCanine]

Strong work Jeff...very tidy.

...but I'm beginning to feel like we need to start an InLine Tube support group.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Nice progress - looking great!

Thanks Pete. It has been a little one step forward, two back but what restoration doesn't.

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Strong work Jeff...very tidy.

...but I'm beginning to feel like we need to start an InLine Tube support group.

I'm with you on that. Fortunately Mike (72k5cstdarkolive) has helped me out with some info and pics from his to show Inline to compare. I think Inline is going to make it right on their dime but I'm not going to get too excited until I have them here and mounted.

[CUSTOM/10]

Hey Jeff !

I just read through your engine build thread and your engine is similar to mine. 383, 89 roller block, cam is similar for low end torque, but I used worked over GM cast iron vortec heads.

As I was reading through the build I was on the edge of my seat until you finally showed a picture that had the block casting numbers ( 638 ). I say this because the next engine block after this casting was 880. It was use for the same applications, but the cylinder bores were about 3/8 of an inch shorter and are not good for a long stroked 383. The pistons come out of the bottom of the bores too much and cause a nasty rattle.

Glad you used the 638 block !!!

Gary

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Hey Jeff !

I just read through your engine build thread and your engine is similar to mine. 383, 89 roller block, cam is similar for low end torque, but I used worked over GM cast iron vortec heads.

As I was reading through the build I was on the edge of my seat until you finally showed a picture that had the block casting numbers ( 638 ). I say this because the next engine block after this casting was 880. It was use for the same applications, but the cylinder bores were about 3/8 of an inch shorter and are not good for a long stroked 383. The pistons come out of the bottom of the bores too much and cause a nasty rattle.

Glad you used the 638 block !!!

Gary

Gary. Glad you enjoyed the thread. I'm going to chalk that up to dumb luck as I wouldn't have known. I did have a very knowledgeable friend helping me out so he might have.
Cheers.

[SONOSADSACK]

Looking good. I like the level of detail and will keep watching for updates. Subscribed

[tjsblazer]

Finally a few hours this week to work on the Blazer.

Had to machine the tranny mounts to clearance by the back end of the 5th gear tailstock on the NV4500 transmission.

[tjsblazer]

Got the NP205 rehung and sealed up to the 5 spd transmission. That is some heavy metal !! I used a floor jack with a piece of plywood on it to take the weight and then a buddy and I just rotated it in to place.

[tjsblazer]

I have to fab up a new stand to go between the tranny and the mounts. The original one made was too tall. Right now I just have a floor jack under it to take the bulk of the weight till I get one in there. Just going to come up with some quick temp thing for now. I'll make something more professional / oe looking in the long run.

[tjsblazer]

I put a tape measure on the output yoke on the back of the transfer case and measured for center between the frame rails. Right now it is sitting 1/2" towards the left. Seems difficult to correct though as that side mount on the transfer case pretty much dictates where it sits left to right. I might be able to get a little wiggle in it but not 1/2".

How big of a deal is the 1/2" offset. I'm sure they weren't perfect from the factory but I never checked any of this stuff before I pulled it apart. No idea if the differential yoke is perfectly centered but I'm sure they aren't.

[tjsblazer]

Picture from the other side showing where I need to fab a stand between the tranny and mount pad.

[Chad22873]

Any updates?

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by Chad22873

Any updates?

Sorry guys, just boring body work stuff. Not much metal work really cause the tub was clean but I don't do body work so it is in Body shop prison. Cleaning up a bunch of extra holes and some small firewall mods. I keep getting told it will be painted "next week" for the past 3 months. It is getting closer but slowly. I stop in weekly to nudge it along.

Problem is it is Winter time up here and Canada which means they are in to a lot of Insurance work. I'm not paying nearly that labour rate so I have to wait ...

I have taken some pictures. I'll get them downsized and posted over the next week. Once I get the tub back on I can get back in to the more interesting reassembly story.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Sorry guys, just boring body work stuff. Not much metal work really cause the tub was clean but I don't do body work so it is in Body shop prison. Cleaning up a bunch of extra holes and some small firewall mods. I keep getting told it will be painted "next week" for the past 3 months. It is getting closer but slowly. I stop in weekly to nudge it along.

Problem is it is Winter time up here and Canada which means they are in to a lot of Insurance work. I'm not paying nearly that labour rate so I have to wait ...

I have taken some pictures. I'll get them downsized and posted over the next week. Once I get the tub back on I can get back in to the more interesting reassembly story.

I think we have something in common. I've been told it's going to get primered for the last 5 months or so.. "Body shop prison" couldn't agree more with that.

Did you ever get that T-Case bushing mounts figured out? I'll be loosing mine this Friday to remove the Transmission so I can put in a new torque converter. I can check which way they go and let you know.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I think we have something in common. I've been told it's going to get primered for the last 5 months or so.. "Body shop prison" couldn't agree more with that.

Did you ever get that T-Case bushing mounts figured out? I'll be loosing mine this Friday to remove the Transmission so I can put in a new torque converter. I can check which way they go and let you know.

Thanks but I got that squared away. Amazing that about 50/50 which way people thought they went but I found a picture I had before tear down.

Cheers.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Good to hear. Out of curiosity.. which way did you put the bushings in?

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Good to hear. Out of curiosity.. which way did you put the bushings in?

The thicker one is at the bottom between the mount and frame rail. Once I started to take measurements this made sense. Of course after I asked the question, took measurements, and got it back together I found this picture I had taken of the original when it was removed.

[tjsblazer]

So as solid as this truck was it had lots of piercings. I can't believe how many screw holes had to be welded up.
On top of that there was a small patch required on the front passenger floor which I think was probably the result of a leaky roof over the years.

Also the second owner was kind enough to beat the crap out of the firewall to clearance it for an engine removal and reinstall. It was stretched all out so replaced that also.

A couple of pics of the rough metal work.