Project Old Blue, 1965 C10, Rebuild Version 2010

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

... re-make the brake lines. You did good once, the 2nd time should be better right?

It was beginners luck. But your right I SHOULD be able to do it again...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

It was beginners luck. But your right I SHOULD be able to do it again...

Hhmm.... I'm quite familiar w/bad luck; not so much w/this 'beginners' luck.

[Alan's Classic]

Here is the pic of the pump I have.

[aggie91]

I have decided to use the ones from my buddies camaro for my headers for now. I will remake the brake lines from the master cylinder to the frame. I looked at them for awhile last night. Looks like all that needs to change is the small "U" I put in them. The start of the U is high enough to clear the tube, I will just put a staight length between two 90* bends with the last 90 at about where the lower black line clamp is now instead of the 180* bend I have there now. Nothing more than 2 more lines from the parts store and an evening of work...

Thanks, Allan - I sent you a PM.

[aggie91]

Well my buddy has no idea what the headers are, except the fact that the came off of his 68 Camaro with a 350 and no AC. I did some searching on SummitRacing.com, From the pictures they are most likely Headman Headers. This is the set that he has on the Camaro now:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-68278/?rtype=10

Size and Shape wise this is most likely what Set 2 headers where without the coating. Set 1 headers most likely for Chevy c-10 trucks from 68 up, from pictures of the Flowtech's on Summit's site.

Looks like I need to save my lunch money for long time to get those....

I will just patch up the free ones that I have for now and go with that...

[aggie91]

Made a little money today at the swap meet in Canton. I might order a set of shorty headers for a chevelle off eBay that I have seen fit my year truck. I am going to use some of the money I made today for this project and see if I can finish the engine installation.
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[aggie91]

With some of the money I made from the swap meet this part weekend, I ordered these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

There has been a thread on here in the 73-87 section and from my research I believe that they will fit and work well for my truck. Total cost to me: $148.84 shipped. I should have them by mid next week.

Once I have them, I will confirm that they fit and then I will rework my brake lines and complete the brakes.

Once all that is done, my next project is to get the ignition complete and test fire the engine with a temp fuel system...

[aggie91]

My new headers came in today!

They came from Pro Auto Luxury on ebay. Here is what I got (minus the passenger side header):

Nice thick flange, measured at 0.370" with my caliper:


Here is some of the welds, some still had the discoloration in the HAZ:



The ad for these on ebay said they are made from 304 stainless. I think that it might be 409 stainless. 409 is magnetic and 304 is not. The flange may be regular carbon steel since it appears to have a clear coat of some kind on it. You can see what looks like a run in the coating from the flange down part of the tube in that last picture. The coating looks like it is only on the flange except for a few runs on some of the tubes. I will know for sure once I get the motor running and have some heat on them...

Overall, I am pleased with them at this time.

[aggie91]

I spent sometime tonight putting them on to see how they fit. The passenger side fits good with no clearance issues to the frame rail or the motor mount frame brackets. I left the plastic bag they came in on this one to help avoid scratches for now.




The driver side header has an issue fitting the way I wanted. It looks like it will fit and clear every where except for the front tube hits the bracket for the motor mount.

The rear most bolt is in the flange, but the front most bolt hole is about an inch off from lining up with the hole in the head. I will just make/modify the motor mount frame bracket to clear, but still bolt in the factory holes.

All in all, I am happy with them. They came with all the hardware and reducers and gaskets. The hardware is metric except for the header bolts, the threads are 3/8"-16, but the head is a small 10mm hex. No problem there. The reducers are nice and have a good polished finish, the flange and reducer flanges are cut on a cnc plasma and are both nice and think. Once I get the motor mount modfied, I will run the pipes on the driver side, hook up the shift linkage, and then redo the brake lines.

[SCOTI]

They look decent enough.... Hopefully the MM tower doesn't need much tweaking.

[aggie91]

Been doing some thinking about my header/motor mount issue. I have an extra set of 73-87 mounts (frame bracket, clam shell, & bushing). I am thinking of setting that up and see if it clears that...I have read that these headers fit those trucks without any issues.

Maybe this weekend...I have to work Sat. and there is some yard work that needs to be done first. Only time will tell is I get to work on it...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Been doing some thinking about my header/motor mount issue. I have an extra set of 73-87 mounts (frame bracket, clam shell, & bushing). I am thinking of setting that up and see if it clears that...I have read that these headers fit those trucks without any issues.

Maybe this weekend...I have to work Sat. and there is some yard work that needs to be done first. Only time will tell is I get to work on it...

If the 73-87 stuff doesn't work, look into the POL tubular mounts. Not too 'costly' & should work for you.

[aggie91]

Well did not get to work on my truck this weekend like I hoped. I had to work Saturday. Also helped my oldest with a school project Sat. and today. Maybe after baseball on Tuesday or Wednesday evening I will put some time in on it.
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[aggie91]

Got some work time this evening. I pulled the stock motor mount set up off the driver side and put on a set up from a 82 Chevy C-10. Everything clears on this set up. I will take a grinder to add a little clearence to the clam shell right below the offending tube, but that is more to make me feel better then actually needed. The only issue is that the 82 frame is 3/4" taller in that area. I would need to make a 3/4" thick spacer or cut down and weld back together the frame bracket to fit flat on the top of the frame. This set up also raises the motor in the front about 3/4"-1". That doesn not seem to be an issue, but not sure that I like it. What do you guys think? Here's a couple of photos:



While I have some time and have it appart, I am going to see what it might take to modify the stock mount/frame bracket to make the header fit that side. Either way, I think that the headers are going to be a good deal for my needs.

[Alan's Classic]

My first thought was to cut and weld instead of a spacer. If you cut it the angles will need some work to match back up. Looking good!!

[aggie91]

Well I took the time to mock up the parts and take a close look at where the frame bracket and the header tube where trying to occupy the same space. I marked the bracket and removed it a few times and tried spacers here and there, but I think that it would be best to modify the frame bracket and not use shims. The shims seemed to create alignement issues with the motor mount and frame and possibly put the passenger side is a bind.

In the pictures below, the offending area is the chipped paint inside the black "circle" the chipped area is right where the tube hits the mount. It looks like I can cut down that "high" spot and leave the flange below it. In the second picture, imagine that the socket is a hole saw, I could clamp the bracket in the drill press or mill and run the hole saw through the area at an angle that would be parrallel with the line the header tube follows. This would take out the area marked by the black "circle". The slug could then be flipped over and welded in from the bottom therefore maintaining the strength of the mount. What do you guys think of that solution versus the one described above? Both require fab work which does not bother me at all, but I just don't know which will look better in the end.

[aggie91]

Thanks Alan, My first thought was to cut and weld make people think that it was a stock part in the end...What do you think about my second idea?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Thanks Alan, My first thought was to cut and weld make people think that it was a stock part in the end...What do you think about my second idea?

I would notch it as needed using a holesaw through the center of the offending area & then just put a flat plate in it's place. Easier to do vs. inverting the cut out section & it will be under the header tube (out of sight).

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Thanks Alan, My first thought was to cut and weld make people think that it was a stock part in the end...What do you think about my second idea?

The second idea would be a cool fix, but I don't think you will gain enough clearance. From the pix it looks like the front header mount bolt is 1.5" away from going in. I don't think there is enough material on the mount to accomendate the mod. Not saying it can't be done. The amount you have circled will not help. Try it and see. That's the way I learn. That's my .o2 from what I can see.

[daverod]

Great now your going to make me paint my water pump. Nice picture takin. Keep them coming I need pictures. You need to get your power steering pump on.

[aggie91]

thanks guys. I am going to take the stock mount to work tomorrow and if I get time cut out the offending area and see what that gives me.

Dave - before I do the PS pump I have to solve my header/motor mount issue.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

thanks guys. I am going to take the stock mount to work tomorrow and if I get time cut out the offending area and see what that gives me.

Dave - before I do the PS pump I have to solve my header/motor mount issue.

Just remember, you can plate/reinforce the tower bracket on the back side & it won't interfere w/anything.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

The second idea would be a cool fix, but I don't think you will gain enough clearance. From the pix it looks like the front header mount bolt is 1.5" away from going in. I don't think there is enough material on the mount to accomendate the mod. Not saying it can't be done. The amount you have circled will not help. Try it and see. That's the way I learn. That's my .o2 from what I can see.

The bolt hole is right at an inch away from lining up. While I had the motor up to swap the mounts, I did a little reverse assembly so to speak and it look like I only need about 1/2" clearence at the frame bracket. I am going to cut it out today and see what happens. If it comes out right, you may not even see my modifications once everything is together...if this does not work, I can still use the mounts from the 82...

[aggie91]

I did cut out the part of the mount that i had marked. Not quite enough, If bolts up but the tube hits it hard. I marked it to cut some more...

We went to the drag races today so no work today...I will try to post a picture on Sunday...

[aggie91]

Well baseball is over for us this year. We did OK but not like we hoped. I am working a different schedule 3 days a week and it has given me a hour or so to work on the truck. I took out all the springs and out on my 20" wheels and tires to see how it would look. Seems ok now, but I will need to put sheetmetal on before I make a decision.

Anyway, I worked on my motor mount issue some more. I have totaly abandoned the 73-87 motor mounts mostly because I got frustrated once i modified the driver side frame bracket. I cut it down 3/4" and it looked good, but with a new rubber mount, it would no longer fit the frame like I wanted. So, back to modifing the stock frame bracket.

I cut out enough to clear the header tube and started "patching" the hole to reinforce the area that was removed. Here are some in progress pics:

Here you can get an idea of how deep I needed to cut to clear the header,



This gets me about 1/4" clearance between the header tube and the mount. Once finished it should look good. There will be reinforcement on the underside and not visible once installed. I hope that I can metal finish it on the topside so that I can have it powder coated when I take it all back part for finishing some day.