1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"

[daveshilling]

A couple of detail photos..

Since this is made of angle iron, I needed to round the edge of one to slide in the other.

I also drilled them together, so that the offset created by nesting the pieces wouldn't mis-align the holes with the track.

[G&R's57GMC]

Happy New Year Dave .

Yea , Dave is finally back at it .
Very nicely done. What’s next ?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Happy New Year Dave .

Yea , Dave is finally back at it .
Very nicely done. What’s next ?

After I finish this battery box, I need to choose the location... I have a looong battery cable I got from a BMW at a Junkyard for only $7. It will reach darn near the rear bumper if I add a post in the frame and wire the starter to the frame separately.

Then I need to decide to either scoot the engine forward to clear the brake pedal, or cut the 3 bolt flange off of the TBSS drivers manifold and clock it, or weld in a 2 bolt manifold instead.

I didn't even know that welding an LS manifold with just plain ole MIG was possible, then Gregski showed me his custom versions all welded up...who knew?! So many Truck intakes have been discarded for nothing, I bet.

[daveshilling]

Made a little trip to the yard today and got some bits for future steps in the process...prices are high at pick-n-pull but still cheaper than other options!

T-Bird 2 Speed fan that apparently fits factory width radiators perfectly-$35.29

LS Power steering fluid cooler $25.59

I need to head back for Volvo fan relays, and I guess buy a radiator..

[daveshilling]

Looks like the PS Fluid cooler will mount perfectly to/beneath the typical front crossmember replacement we all do when the shackle mounts are removed.. The hard lines will come just beneath the radiator, and there's enough length to reach the low pressure tee as well as the low pressure pump return.

One more junkyard part made to fit!

The PS Pump high pressure inlet still might need a better solution to convert to -6AN, but that doesn't prevent me from making another PTFE line to the area. I think I'll run the low pressure with the leftover hose from the 20' kit even though it doesn't need it, because it will look cool.

Crossing my fingers that these don't leak! If they do, then at least I have perfect mock-ups to take to a hydraulic shop... just hand them my leaky lines and say "make these" lol.

[daveshilling]

Continued working on the battery box, made some hold downs that function with a single 5/16" bolt. this constrains me to a size 34 battery, but the top and front are easily removed if needed and I can modify for another battery. It's a shame I wasn't using an Optima because there are lazer cut versions of this online for like $40.

Got my daughter to weld the back piece in for me, and I'm leaving the welds rather than grinding them. Her little signature!

[6DoF]

the cast headers i feel like would crack eventually if welded ... but maybe not since it should be a good cast like an axle housing. i used vette manifolds with a factory steel welded pipe that i cut n clocked for a Jeep.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

the cast headers i feel like would crack eventually if welded ... but maybe not since it should be a good cast like an axle housing. i used vette manifolds with a factory steel welded pipe that i cut n clocked for a Jeep.

I guess its a cast steel, not iron, so it can be done. I have no experience but have seen it done so maybe its an option

[6DoF]

randomly going back up the page some ... did the engine mounts get a drain hole?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

randomly going back up the page some ... did the engine mounts get a drain hole?

No, I don't intent to be taking on that much moisture...but not a bad plan!

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

No, I don't intent to be taking on that much moisture...but not a bad plan!

spraying oil, unexpected coolant decompression, even washing it ... lots of reasons to keep things from holding fluids. something i've had to fight before, just a heads up.

[daveshilling]

I finished the battery tray and installed it in the rear passenger fender well area. It's mostly under the bed, actually, but the idea is that the fender well gives me a bit more working space when the box is dropped down.

I think in practice, the truck will be low enough that any location not under the hood will be a pain.

After installing it, I notice that its not completely solid since its only mounted near the top of the frame....which means I'll likely have to remove it and add more steel somewhere lower.

[6DoF]

i appreciate that drop-down box, i like it.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

i appreciate that drop-down box, i like it.

Thanks! The mounting points could use design improvement, and anyone who wants to replicate this should take note and do a better job than I did before they paint it.

I was daydreaming about some sort of spring assist add-on as well, since this battery weighs a ton when you're in an awkward position. I'm sure in practice, I'll hardly ever need to drop it down since I'm running a remote battery post to the front.

[daveshilling]

I didn't really feel like uninstalling my battery box, so I'll deal with that another day.

Working towards my goal of getting the engine started:
I need power to the fuel pump...for that I need:
the rear wiring group down the drivers frame....for that I need:
EZ-Wiring kit installed...for that I need:
Mounting plate and a location.

I have made peace with the fact that I will not be smoothing out the firewall on this truck, just plugging the holes most likely. Keeping that in mind, I chose some existing holes in the firewall to hold my fuse box and officially begin the chassis wiring process.

I used a steel plate and welded 3 nuts to it so it stands off the firewall and allows room for hardware between the plate and firewall that is needed to mount the fuse box to the plate.


The fuses are tucked high, but when you sit on the cab step you can see/access them.

[daveshilling]

I routed the rear wires through the kick panel and out, right above the hinge.

One step closer to attempting to fire up my disappointing 5.3-thats-really-a-4.8 and seeing if its a turd. If it runs, the plan may change to 4.8 turbo, blow it up, then 6.0. Trying to resist adding another year to my build by fussing with the engine, but maybe it runs like crap and I'll have to replace it anyways!

[OKGMC4]

In the beginning I thought a 5.3 would be enough. Then I thought a rebuilt 6.0 with flat tops and a cam would be enough. Now I'm putting the 5.3 back in with a turbo and a 4L80. Probably, to my wife's dismay, I'll end up with a twin turbo 6.0 running a Nissan GTR all-wheel drive system in the future. lol

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

In the beginning I thought a 5.3 would be enough. Then I thought a rebuilt 6.0 with flat tops and a cam would be enough. Now I'm putting the 5.3 back in with a turbo and a 4L80. Probably, to my wife's dismay, I'll end up with a twin turbo 6.0 running a Nissan GTR all-wheel drive system in the future. lol

Wow! Maybe just install really crappy brakes, then the power will scare you!

[daveshilling]

I reworked the LS harness and taped it all up back to how it was factory... bad choice with the PCM in the cab and not behind the drivers headlight. I ended up with a bunch of unruly wires and things connected strangely. So I undid all of that, grouped things together differently, and started zipping things together on the engine instead so it make a bit more sense.

[daveshilling]

Planning out my Nissan quest remote reservoir location, I figured this spot in the cab might be a cool spot... maybe I can pump the pedal and fill at the same time??

Figured I would experiment with keeping this off of the firewall and keep the hoses far away from the head under the hood.

[6DoF]

good lord, i never thought about filling while you pump for something like the factory location under the floor. those old guys were thinkin!

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

good lord, i never thought about filling while you pump for something like the factory location under the floor. those old guys were thinkin!

I definitely tried to work this guy into a spot so the hole in the cab floor would give me access! Then I realized I would probably have carpet, maybe insulation, and that wouldn't be an easy option (=

[dsraven]

sometimes, when doing wiring rework like that, I use those velcro tie wraps. then they are easily undone if you rethink someting or when it comes time for loom. also, think about the tape you use when doing junctions or whatever. some is really pliable and some isn't. the pliable stuff works well at the "T" type intersections but I usuallyy like to pull it tight so it sticks well but cut it off instead of yanking on it hard so it breaks, that way there is an end to find if needed later and the wiring doesn't get deformed as you pull tight. split loom is ok for stuff with wiring connectors already on the ends but I like to use the chinese finger trap style stuff if possible, that means taking the connectors apart or installing them after the loom is on. I have used the flexible air brake line for loom before on heavy duty equipment where water concerns are a factor. there are waterproof junction boxes available. that is extra weight for the everyday vehicle though. those home wiring style connections where they use a rubber gasket and a nut to tighten down on the wires work well for bulkhead connectors, especially for battery cable into a box or whatever. they are plastic and have a pipe thread on the other end of the fitting.
nice work on the wiring and great idea for the brake master cyl reservoir. will the seat allow access once installed?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

sometimes, when doing wiring rework like that, I use those velcro tie wraps....
nice work on the wiring and great idea for the brake master cyl reservoir. will the seat allow access once installed?

I like those things! I have a jug of little zip ties I got for free and there are just hundreds, maybe a thousand in there.. free and nearby always wins (= I use harness tape and a split that wraps around itself and looks like the finger trap..its the compromise between the two.


The reservoir should be accessible, but I'm not certain yet. It might end up just a novelty and I have to fold the seat forward. It's still fun! No matter what, it will be better than filling a MC under the truck on my back, spilling everywhere.

[G&R's57GMC]

Hay Dave ,
On Tex I had enough room to stand on end a 80’s GM radio next to the stock seat . So if that’s what you’re using the reservoir should be accessible just barely with the seat all the way back . Look at the Suburban P.U. in the next bay .
If you use a late eighties through nineties seat on its stock base legs you’ll have even more room . Pic. Of my ‘57 . Dang sideways pic , Just turn your computer on it's side
Thanks for rotating the pic .