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10-12-2020, 11:21 PM | #1 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
For reference what bore size and travel are your current master and slave setup? I know you can play around with how much pressure it takes on pedal and how far the master has to travel for clutch engagement with bore diameters.
If all else you can also move the placement of the master on the pedal for different travel ratio but not sure if you will have to go that far. |
10-13-2020, 11:00 PM | #2 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Thanks Taco. Haven't yet had a chance to look into the clutch hydraulics. Been working on my engine stalling problem and was able to solve that today with a new ignition module.
I've also been working on the brakes. They work but the pedal is not good. I think I have the wrong size plumbing at the MC or I have lines crossed at the prop valve. Today the right rear wheel cylinder exploded. Fluid everywhere and the brake drum locked up. But it was the rear chamber of the MC that drained. I thought the rear larger chamber was for the front disc brakes. I'm using 71 or 72 K20 MC
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10-24-2020, 09:51 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Quote:
The slave cylinder used in the kit is the exact same one used for the 60-62 trucks. These slaves have a one inch bore. The slave I had originally wanted to use has a 7/8 inch bore, thus the 7/8 inch bore master from Captainfab. So this week I obtained a new Wilwood one inch bore mc to match the slave and now all is good with the clutch. And worth mentioning. I also had to change out the brake booster to a smaller 9 inch unit. The new clutch mc is bigger than the old one and came into contact with the 11 inch booster being used. Photo of the new set up -
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10-14-2020, 12:23 AM | #4 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Yeah as far as I have ever seen the larger res is for the disk brakes so you might want to check plumbing. Would also explain it exploding since you would be forcing more fluid at higher pressure than wheel cylinder could take.
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10-14-2020, 09:14 PM | #5 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
As the song says - " Life is hard when you're dumb ". A seriously bad plumbing mistake. Two in fact. Yikes!!
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10-14-2020, 09:59 PM | #6 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Just read through your build thread. Really like your work. I would like to ask where you got the dashboard AC air deflect vents chromed. The 2 ball deflectors are plastic, was it hard to find someone to do those? I am looking to have my originals rechromed. I have a 66 K-10 that I am working on currently. I plan on keeping it the way it left the factory.
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10-15-2020, 02:02 PM | #7 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
[QUOTE=chtr65;8822524]Just read through your build thread. Really like your work. I would like to ask where you got the dashboard AC air deflect vents chromed. The 2 ball deflectors are plastic, was it hard to find someone to do those? I am looking to have my originals rechromed. I have a 66 K-10 that I am working on currently. I plan on keeping it the way it left the factory.[/QUO
I'll try and dig up that information tonight.
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10-15-2020, 10:49 AM | #8 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Hey, at least you found out before you were cruising down the highway and needed to make a sudden stop. Part of this truck stuff is learning from mistakes and having something you can laugh about a couple years down the road
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10-18-2020, 01:09 AM | #9 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
haha Yeah we all have done something like that I'm sure. Its also strange to think of the rear line going to front brakes VS the more common setup where front line goes to front and rear line goes to rear.
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10-18-2020, 08:28 PM | #10 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
All is good with the brakes now. Re-plumbed with the correct size lines into the correct ports of the prop valve. New wheel cylinder and brake shoes at the problem wheel. A little more fine tuning at the pushrod should make it just right.
Regarding the clutch. I'm pretty sure the slave is not correct for this application. It is for a Land Cruiser and it just doesn't seem to push the clutch for in far enough to completely dis-engage the clutch. I took a chance using it because it fit the bracket I have without modification. I do have a slave which is supposed to be match for the master but I'll need to modify the slave mounting bracket in order to use it. I'll play around with it this week and see if I can figure something out.
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10-25-2020, 04:45 PM | #11 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Glad you got it worked out! So now that you have it running are you starting to get the itch that you need to rush to get it together and drive it? I know when I hit the part of a build where it can move under its on power I really feel motivated to get it together quick and get the first real drive in.
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10-25-2020, 07:38 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Quote:
The itch is there alright but I have to be patient. I still have some restoration work to do on both doors, seat and console configuration, flooring..... The list still seems endless. This week the task is to figure out how to fit four shift levers through the tranny hump. Got some ideas though. Stay tuned.
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11-01-2020, 10:40 PM | #13 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Update for this week.
I worked on making holes in the transmission cover for the all the levers. The cover is new from LMC. It is well made but will require the grinding wheel in a couple of areas for proper fit. I'll show that coming up soon. Making holes for the transmission and overdrive shift levers were pretty straight forward. The hole for the twin stick t-case shifter is way more complicated for a fabrication novice such as myself. First off, I am not using the cable operated shifter mentioned in an earlier post. I couldn't make it work with this truck. I ended up going with ORD's (Off Road Design) twin stick shifters that use rods and heim joints. The ORD shift levers are at least twice as tall than the one's for the cable shifters. They look more old school, kinda like you would see in an Napco truck. I did use the nobs from the cable shifters on the ORD levers because they have the shift patterns on the knobs themselves. ORD only gives generic round knobs and a sticker to show shift pattern. There isn't enough room on the trans cover for the twin sticks to mount flat on the cover. My mock up was to make a flat extension off to the passenger side of the cover using some sheet metal. The man that is going to do my exhaust is also a talented sheet metal fabricator, and he can definitely work off this idea. I also changed out the throttle linkage rod. I was temporarily using the stock V8 dog leg rod. Finally got a proper straight rod and swivel joints. Nice and smooth now.
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11-04-2020, 01:17 AM | #14 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
What about just forming the metal plate down on that one side to follow the tunnel shape? Maybe too much of a turn for the boot material to bend?
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11-04-2020, 10:29 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Quote:
I'll try and post better pics of all this later. Right now everything is covered for door jam painting.
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11-14-2020, 11:46 PM | #16 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Moving forward with re-assembly while waiting for my appointment for the exhaust and trans cover sheet metal work.
I re-installed the passenger side door along with new door weatherstrip gaskets for both sides. Then I got the passenger side fender to cab seal done and re-mounted that. At the same time I put on my new fender emblems in place of the stock "20" ones. One thing with my Vintage Air system that I didn't like was how the condenser moved around so much. I could see how it would shake and possibly break the mounting points on bad or wash board roads. But the condenser has some tabs that can used to attach additional support brackets to. So I made one for each side, and that made for a much more solid attachment. Lastly, I worked on getting the front light harness out to the core support. This was also a good opportunity to fab up a headlight relay mod for lo and hi beams. Threw in the horn too.
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12-03-2020, 08:04 PM | #17 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Well things are still moving along. A lot of the boring tasks are getting finished up as well as some of the more interesting things.
Finished up the headlight on new grill. Also installed new bezels and headlights.
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12-03-2020, 08:14 PM | #18 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
This week I was able to get the truck down to the shop to address the transfer case shifter mounting issue and have the exhaust system fabbed up. Here are some pics of the t-case shifters. I think it came out perfect.
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12-12-2020, 01:04 PM | #19 | |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Quote:
And this week has been good too. Front and rear glass is in with the front being new and re-using the existing rear one. Exhaust is finished with two inch pipes from the manifolds into a three inch single pipe with a cat and magnaflow muffler.
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12-12-2020, 01:23 PM | #20 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
I read through your build but didnt see it.
The overdrive and where did you get it. Thanks Ken
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12-12-2020, 01:37 PM | #21 | |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Quote:
Striaght6, thanks for commenting!
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12-12-2020, 04:18 PM | #22 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Thanks
I bought a lot of advance stuff over the years. Again Thanks Ken
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12-04-2020, 12:40 PM | #23 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
That came out really nice!
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01-18-2021, 07:22 PM | #24 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Thanks that helps a lot. Makes much more sense to me now. I thought you might be raising it some for the gas tank fill. I had to cut some of my bed on my 65 for the side gas tank fill...There is a 1/2" gap in the below picture from bed rail to frame rail? Are you going to fill this gap with anything?
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01-18-2021, 10:22 PM | #25 |
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
For now I'll leave that gap open. I don't expect much bending or deflection in that area. But we'll see once the truck is loaded up to it's trip ready weight.
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