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04-18-2024, 03:15 PM | #1 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
I know very little about LS Swaps, other than they are very popular and don't get rid of the donor vehicle until the swap is complete, and for me, the electronics is beyond my comfort zone, so I don't think I would ever try one.
HOWEVER,...... have you ever considered a Carb on an LS motor? I would think that would simplify things? just wondering? I like following your projects as you always do great work, and thanks for sharing
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04-18-2024, 03:33 PM | #2 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Thank you for the nice words.
I have a 350 block with LS heads and a carb in the 48. I had forgotten how I "loved" starting a carbed engine! Once it fires off, it runs great, but then the gas mileage is only about 11mpg. Also, I agree with you that the electronics are beyond my limited electrical knowledge, but I put an LS in the 79 Cherokee Chief and have not had a problem with the electrical part once it ran. The harness was bought from a harness builder, and it plugged right in and played. If I have problems with it, I'll take it to a shop that works on LS engines. But it starts right up and has about as much power as my built 350, it's stock and gets almost double the gas mileage. The LS I'm putting in the Cameo should have more horsepower than either, and if I'm successful, it'll look like a mid-50's small block Chevy. At least that's the plan.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
05-09-2024, 09:11 AM | #3 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
they're gonna dip the engine too, right? get the cooling jacket and oil galleries etc all cleaned out? replace frost plugs and cam bearings, oil gallery plugs etc?
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05-09-2024, 09:56 AM | #4 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Yes sir. They are going to do all that.
This will be my first engine build, and I was talked into it by a restoration shop manager who volunteered his time to oversee my worki and what I'm doing. So, maybe I won't screw it up!
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
06-13-2024, 04:45 PM | #5 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
I have a ZR2 rear axle, and I've started rebuilding it. The lugs on the rear don't match the ones on the front hubs I got from TCI. After talking to TCI and having the axles out of the tubes, I decided TCI was right it was going to be easier to replace the rear metric lug bolts with 7/16 x 20. I measured the knurl and got some from Summit that are the right size. I have measured the knurl for size, and it is .557", so my measurement agreed with Dorman.
Now, I need to drill the hubs out, but I'm not sure what size drill bit to use, I'm thinking 15/32, although a 14mm might work. I need it to be tight enough to hold the lug bolts tight enough, so they don't move. I talked to an axle shop today and they said the real problem was centering the new hole. I thought I could just use a drill press, and the right size drill bit would follow the original hole and be centered. Am I missing something? Thanks.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
07-07-2024, 02:45 PM | #6 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
I got the engine, crank and pistons back from the machine shop. They honed the crank and cylinders and replaced the piston rings. It was in pretty good shape!
IMG_1802 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr I painted the block, oil pan and front cover plate "Chevrolet Orange". With any luck, I'll start assembling the engine this coming weekend, but the heads are still at the machine shop, with no end in sight. I finally got the last of the E-brake parts for the ZR2 rear end and was able to finish that assembly. IMG_1806 - Copy by Robert Moorman, on Flickr The note is to remind me to add red Loctite and torque the caliper bolts before installing. Since this is my first rear axle rebuild, I decided to have a mechanic buddy come check the backlash before adding that red Loctite to the bolts, just in case I have to pull the axles again for any reason. Then I started repairing the rear bottoms of the front fenders. IMG_1803 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr If you look closely and squint just right, you might be able to make out the pin-hole in the fender bottom and there are two close to the nut. I welded this up and primed it. Did the same to the other side, but it wasn't rust, it was a little damage. I hammered and dollied it until it will take a little filler and then some high build primer to make it look good as new. So far, that is all the damage I've found. The cab and doors are next though. They still have the re-paint on them, so there could be some damage hidden inside a door or something, but it still looks rust free!
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
07-08-2024, 09:18 AM | #7 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
I'd recommend that you NOT use red Locktite for the caliper bolts. If you want to use some Locktite, then I'd suggest the Orange stuff.
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07-08-2024, 09:19 AM | #8 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Thanks. I will.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
07-08-2024, 09:41 AM | #9 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
nice batch of parts.
blue or orange loctite. red is for stuff that will prolly never need to come apart again for a long time. sometimes it needs heat to get it to release. sometimes the bolt breaks off instead. |
07-08-2024, 09:46 AM | #10 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Thanks Raven.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
07-29-2024, 02:47 PM | #11 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Finally got the short block together!
IMG_1811 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr IMG_1810 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr Yes, I took a picture of it upside down, just to show it really does have pistons in it. The heads are still at the machine shop but should be done around 8/7. Then the rest of the assembly will take place. Taking the cab and the doors to be dipped tomorrow, they should be ready around the 15th of August, and then I can start welding some of the holes in the cab.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
08-01-2024, 05:14 PM | #12 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Ok, I'm not sure what this part is called, it is the radiator support I think. Anyway, the truck had dealer installed AC in 1955, and it appears they cut and bent some of the louvers out of the way, removed the "X" cross bracing and took off the two little horseshoe shaped pieces on the upper corners when doing it.
Here is the louver removal after I've cleaned it up a little. IMG_1813 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr Then I shaped a louvre and welded it to a piece of flat sheet metal. IMG_1814 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr And, here it is all welded up. IMG_1815 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr Now for the real questions. 1. What is this piece called? 2. Is the "X" necessary? 3. Are the two straps on either side necessary? Here is a picture of an old rusty one a buddy gave me so if I need the parts. IMG_1816 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr I could use the old rusty one, but it needs some rust repair on the structural supports and there is a bolt broken off that is very difficult to get to.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
08-01-2024, 06:31 PM | #13 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
-yes, that is called a rad support
-in my opinion you should keep the X even if you modify it to suit your needs. it's only round stock so you could easily fab one up with your skills. if you look at what the whole part does (supports the front end sheet metal on the frame and levels up the fenders to the cab etc) it is a structural part because it has the body mounts for the front end, with shims under the mounts, to level the body lines. -mine does not have the straps on either side but then mine is a Canadian GMC so it may be different because it is a GMC with a Chevy rad support. -I built a new rad support for mine after having bought a new one and then decided to change the rad and a/c condenser so they fit through the opening. I thought "why cut up a new part when I could build what I want instead?" a local dude got a smokin deal on the new rad support. what goes around comes around (I hope, lol) here are a couple pics of my homemade version. it allows the rad to slip through the opening to allow room for a fan etc. if you wanna try this it is pretty easy and cheap to make, I used square tubing and 16ga sheet. no louvers on mine either |
08-01-2024, 06:33 PM | #14 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
your mounts would be different as mine is a frame swapped version. easy enough to figure that out when you have come this far with your fab skills.
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08-01-2024, 06:37 PM | #15 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
this gives me 4.5" of clearance between the rad and the water pump shaft. like said though, this is a frame swap.
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08-02-2024, 08:17 AM | #16 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
I can't answer your questions, but nice work on the louvers.
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08-02-2024, 09:40 AM | #17 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Thanks Raven and Tempest.
Raven, I think I'll keep both the old rusty one and the one I just repaired until I can get the cab on the frame with the engine and tranny mounted. Then I can see what clearances I have and then decide on how to best finish this repair.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
08-15-2024, 04:15 PM | #18 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Well, new endeavor for me today. I got a HF paint gun and some Master Coat rustproofing and for the first time in my life, I mixed paint and sprayed it with a gun.
IMG_1831 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr I used the Master Coat on the Cherokee frame 12 years ago, and it still looks just like it did the day I "brushed" it on. This means there are some brush marks in it, but there is absolutely no rust. So, this time I thought I'd just try spraying it. I think it worked, but the test will be when I do the topcoat to see if it looks good. A number of the parts are to hold the Cameo bed fiberglass to the steel bed sides. Some is for the frame, like front bumper mounts and some of the rear spring stuff. Anyway, I can now say "I'll never be a painter!" Painters have a talent I'll never have. Also, I can make a mess so big it takes hours to clean up, but I did like the way the Mastercoat went on.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
08-15-2024, 04:46 PM | #19 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
way to go.
I painted with a gun for the first time about 20 years ago, and I enjoyed it. So much that I tried to paint a car, and it worked out fine. Take your time, don't rush the flash time, and smooth even strokes will give you decent results. (you don't have to cover it with the first coat) Here is my Lemans in Primer, after Base, after Clear, and finished. From the prices that I hear that people pay for paint (JUST PAINT) I would start a side business if I had the space. Congrats, the first time is always the most difficult, now you have done that, you will get better each time.
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09-03-2024, 12:23 PM | #20 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Hi Sir,
just read up on your post here, if you happen to be still in need of the Cameo Tailgate i would get ahold of Gabriel Carbajal out of California, I have delt with him on parts for my 58 Cameo. great Guy to deal with and he also does beautiful Chrome work if you happen to need for your truck. He knows these trucks also and been in the business for a long time. for what its worth! Wish you the Best with your Build! Allen |
09-03-2024, 12:33 PM | #21 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Thanks. Gabe did my chrome.
I did find a complete original tailgate from a very nice guy in Fla.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
09-03-2024, 02:56 PM | #22 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
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09-16-2024, 04:08 PM | #23 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Ok, I've not been asleep all this time. I have the frame almost ready to set the cab on it. That means the rear end is in place with the U-bolts tightened just a little to keep it from moving. I got some tires and wheels to make it a roller. The front end is mostly assembled, springs and spindles yet to go. However, I've been told not to do that until I am ready to put some weight on it. So, it will sit for a little longer.
I have cut off all the old stuff from the firewall, so I can start welding up holes. Today I got the 3-point seat belt brackets installed. This had me so concerned I did a separate post on it. Well, the anticipation was much worse than the installation. IMG_1872 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr I have been working on an AC vent for the middle of the dash. I am almost ready to cut the hole and get the mounting brackets finished. I saw it on Bob's truck and really liked it. I'll also be modifying the dash a little to get the extra controllers installed. Next time I'll post more pictures.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
10-02-2024, 05:10 PM | #24 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
I've started working on the holes in things. The worst one I've addressed is the driver's door. There looks to be an accident site, where they may have "pulled" the dent out. Anyway, the holes look to be rust outs that were under a layer of bondo.
Here is what I cut out. IMG_1878 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr Then I made the patch and tried to get its shape just like the door. I primed the back side and here is my tacked in place patch. IMG_1879 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr At this point, the patch felt smooth with the door metal. The metal came out of the back panel of a 54, so it should be the same steel. I took almost 1.5 hours welding it in, doing a few tacks all the way around, only where the metal felt cool enough. Then some grinding with a 3" grinder with36 grit and finishing with a 120 grit flap disc. IMG_1880 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr I used a pick on the spots that looked like they weren't welded up. I went back over it 2 times before I got to this point. I can say the dark spots are not holes, and they have good metal under them. There is a little wave left to right, so there will be some filler, but I think it will work. Cab work starts next!
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
10-02-2024, 09:39 PM | #25 |
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Re: Ol' Blue
Nice repair.
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