What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

What kind of looms are those?

Good question...They came with the truck and have no markings other than a chevy emblem. They are quality though as the parts that hold the wires are all metal and they slide together nice and tight. No brittle plastic here!

These are the type that bolt to lower BBC valve cover and hold the wires just above the headers.

-klb

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Good question...They came with the truck and have no markings other than a chevy emblem. They are quality though as the parts that hold the wires are all metal and they slide together nice and tight. No brittle plastic here!

These are the type that bolt to lower BBC valve cover and hold the wires just above the headers.

-klb

That is what I have been looking for. I have the OEM style plastic ones that slide over the tabs welded to the stock valve covers but I don't like them with the headers.

[3757chevy]

Drove it 91 mile round trip to get a new washer and dryer. (there goes my truck budget)

[tdangle]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Drove it 91 mile round trip to get a new washer and dryer. (there goes my truck budget)

Happens to me all the time. Just when I get some $ put away for my truck, it just seems to disappear

[leddzepp]

Put a chrome bumper and guards on my

[rechinca]

Went to start mine for the first time in about 6 weeks. I had to make some repairs to the electrical in that time as the external regulator harness was chaffed so I installed the solid state regulator and a new pigtail. Fixed the tail light wiring and painted the inside of the housings gloss white for some better light reflection and new lenses. Perfect let's start it...NOPE! Heavy fuel smell, leaking from a crap connection where PO had cut hard line at the pump and put in a piece of rubber hose to connect the two. OK got that done and new line ordered. Get home from work the next day to a puddle of fuel on the driveway from under the cab. Truck had two saddle tanks back in the day and removed before I got it. But the hard lines from them to the selector valve were still in it with the valve. In-cab tank was plumbed to the valve still and the rubber line from the tank to the selector valve hard line was rotted and leaking. Ripped it all out in 30 minutes and installed a new line with a metal canister filter between the tank and the hard line inside the frame. Just in time for a torrential downpour and two more days of work with rain...I just want to start it now and make sure I have all the fuel line good.

Of course rain still pervades here in NorCal (we need it bad though) and I discovered this truck had 5/16" fuel lines for the 350 from the factory so new hard lines and sender ordered to replace the old ones and hopefully prevent any starvation (has Edelbrock carb/intake on it). I'm going out on limb though and guessing the fuel pump will need replacing (Merry Christmas to me) since that's my luck. If I don't get it running as is, it will remain a driveway queen until after Christmas. I feel mission creep coming on as the radiator and heater core are also suspect, those hoses look really shady right now and it's pouring outside once again.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

The painter sat on these a while, but some things are worth the wait.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

The painter sat on these a while, but some things are worth the wait. The picture doesn't do them justice.

Why didn't he fix that dent ?

[Grumpy old man]

Just kidding

They look great !

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Why didn't he fix that dent ?

........Cuz there's another just like it on the other side?

[beaterku]

Installed this beauty today. It’s a shame if not really visible when the truck is all assembled.

[RodnRudy]

Well yesterday actually, I ran up to Cooper Restorations and picked up a few odds and ends for my 68. So I guess you could say I did something "for" my truck instead of "to" it. LOL Here's a link to Jeffs web site hes a good guy to do business with.
https://www.cooperrestorations.com/

[tino0217]

Originally Posted by beaterku

Installed this beauty today. It’s a shame if not really visible when the truck is all assembled.

Nice bro

[tino0217]

Ouch

[Steeveedee]

Drove it over to the "local" pick-your-part to see if I could find a replacement seat. No joy. The wife wanted to know why I don't just put it back to stock looking. $97 for a decent replacement, or $900 for the factory look, plus my labor. She understands that sort of economic decision!

[Barnfind46]

Went to summit to pickup a new GM 350 crate engine. My old engine has numerous issues and now it is using oil.

[tino0217]

Nice bro

[kcmarkd]

Finished redoing the AC box under the hood. The goal was functionality, and to stop being a hostel for furry rodents. Originally, the inboard side of the box had two holes where the original vacuum canister had been mounted. Sometime in the past 50 years, it was forcibly removed, leaving two perfect mouse sized holes. So, took it upon myself to try and repair it by doing fiberglass for the first time ever. Of course, after removing the whole system and getting rid of the old mouse funk...

Before, during, and after:


This is an AC truck, but the system had been open to the elements for who knows how long, so instead of reinstalling the non-working evaporator, rusty POA and other stuff, I simply plugged the two grommets to try and seal up the case. Also, fiberglassed a metal bar to the inside of the side panel with tapped threads I can remount the replacement vacuum canister.

[kcmarkd]

After the AC box was back in, I decided to take a look at the drip rail to see how difficult it would be to remove. Tried to pry a little of the old, dried, separated seam sealer, and before I knew it, I had most of it out. And, I had told my wife that I was going to wait on that job.



Most of it came out fairly easily, then I attacked it with a wire wheel. Some surface rust, but no holes and no rust through!!



So, decided to use some rust reformer just to make sure there wasn't something hidden, so masked it all up and shot a coat on it.



The goal is to let this cure overnight, then tomorrow evening I am planning to attempt to redo the seam sealer. I have the 3M 8307 for the horizontal section, then 8308 for the vertical sections. Never done seam sealer before, so it should be interesting...

[elorenzof]

Originally Posted by kcmarkd

After the AC box was back in, I decided to take a look at the drip rail to see how difficult it would be to remove. Tried to pry a little of the old, dried, separated seam sealer, and before I knew it, I had most of it out. And, I had told my wife that I was going to wait on that job.

Attachment 1848048

Most of it came out fairly easily, then I attacked it with a wire wheel. Some surface rust, but no holes and no rust through!!

Attachment 1848049

So, decided to use some rust reformer just to make sure there wasn't something hidden, so masked it all up and shot a coat on it.

Attachment 1848052Attachment 1848051

The goal is to let this cure overnight, then tomorrow evening I am planning to attempt to redo the seam sealer. I have the 3M 8307 for the horizontal section, then 8308 for the vertical sections. Never done seam sealer before, so it should be interesting...

i'm interested in how the seam sealer project turned out?

[kcmarkd]

Originally Posted by elorenzof

i'm interested in how the seam sealer project turned out?

Sorry for the delay in getting to this. Since that post, we have had 14" of snow, downed trees, Christmas road trip, then 8" of rain and flooding. Oh, and the old engine in the truck started knocking (joy).

Anyway, got to it tonight. The whole process worked out much better than I feared. My goal in all of this is for the drip edge to be weather tight, not looks.

Before the Christmas road trip, I had sprayed on a coat of 2K Epoxy primer that I got in a rattle can from Advance Auto (who knew?). Primarily because the 3M instructions indicate to apply this on a 2K primer or bare metal. This will be the beige color in the pics below.

Along with the 3M 8307 Self Leveling and the 3M 8308 heavy body, I also ordered the 3M gun (3M P/N 8571).



I started with the vertical portions of the drip edge and laid down a pretty thick bead of the 3M 8308, starting right at the top of the upper curve. Then I simply used a gloved finger to smooth it out, trying to press it into the seam without squeezing it out. I left the beginning of the bead pretty thick, so it will act as a dam for the self leveling 8307.



I also had a spot at the upper right corner where there was about a 1/8" gap between the roof skin and the rest of the metal that I filled with a small bead of 8308. Once both sides were done, I let it cure for about an hour, then took the 3M 8307 and got after it. Starting on one side, I began filling the drip edge, and worked my way around to the other side. The 8307 is definitely thinner than the 8308 and leveled out nicely.



I then let that cure for about an hour, then masked off the cab and sprayed a coat of basic white rattle can primer over the newly sealed drip edge. Nothing fancy.

[TruDom]

No longer in jackstand jail. Having trouble with brakes still though

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by kcmarkd

Sorry for the delay in getting to this. Since that post, we have had 14" of snow, downed trees, Christmas road trip, then 8" of rain and flooding. Oh, and the old engine in the truck started knocking (joy).

Anyway, got to it tonight. The whole process worked out much better than I feared. My goal in all of this is for the drip edge to be weather tight, not looks.

Before the Christmas road trip, I had sprayed on a coat of 2K Epoxy primer that I got in a rattle can from Advance Auto (who knew?). Primarily because the 3M instructions indicate to apply this on a 2K primer or bare metal. This will be the beige color in the pics below.

Along with the 3M 8307 Self Leveling and the 3M 8308 heavy body, I also ordered the 3M gun (3M P/N 8571).

Attachment 1852632

I started with the vertical portions of the drip edge and laid down a pretty thick bead of the 3M 8308, starting right at the top of the upper curve. Then I simply used a gloved finger to smooth it out, trying to press it into the seam without squeezing it out. I left the beginning of the bead pretty thick, so it will act as a dam for the self leveling 8307.

Attachment 1852629

I also had a spot at the upper right corner where there was about a 1/8" gap between the roof skin and the rest of the metal that I filled with a small bead of 8308. Once both sides were done, I let it cure for about an hour, then took the 3M 8307 and got after it. Starting on one side, I began filling the drip edge, and worked my way around to the other side. The 8307 is definitely thinner than the 8308 and leveled out nicely.

Attachment 1852630

I then let that cure for about an hour, then masked off the cab and sprayed a coat of basic white rattle can primer over the newly sealed drip edge. Nothing fancy.

Attachment 1852631

that really turne out very nice worth the investment of the gun i bet

[66clow]

Originally Posted by kcmarkd

Sorry for the delay in getting to this. Since that post, we have had 14" of snow, downed trees, Christmas road trip, then 8" of rain and flooding. Oh, and the old engine in the truck started knocking (joy).

Anyway, got to it tonight. The whole process worked out much better than I feared. My goal in all of this is for the drip edge to be weather tight, not looks.

Before the Christmas road trip, I had sprayed on a coat of 2K Epoxy primer that I got in a rattle can from Advance Auto (who knew?). Primarily because the 3M instructions indicate to apply this on a 2K primer or bare metal. This will be the beige color in the pics below.

Along with the 3M 8307 Self Leveling and the 3M 8308 heavy body, I also ordered the 3M gun (3M P/N 8571).

Attachment 1852632

I started with the vertical portions of the drip edge and laid down a pretty thick bead of the 3M 8308, starting right at the top of the upper curve. Then I simply used a gloved finger to smooth it out, trying to press it into the seam without squeezing it out. I left the beginning of the bead pretty thick, so it will act as a dam for the self leveling 8307.

Attachment 1852629

I also had a spot at the upper right corner where there was about a 1/8" gap between the roof skin and the rest of the metal that I filled with a small bead of 8308. Once both sides were done, I let it cure for about an hour, then took the 3M 8307 and got after it. Starting on one side, I began filling the drip edge, and worked my way around to the other side. The 8307 is definitely thinner than the 8308 and leveled out nicely.

Attachment 1852630

I then let that cure for about an hour, then masked off the cab and sprayed a coat of basic white rattle can primer over the newly sealed drip edge. Nothing fancy.

Attachment 1852631

Is the 8307 too thin to run down the sides? Looks great, will be doing this.

[Ken O.]

All new ball joints and steering arm linkage and an alignment. Drives way better now.