My 89 CC Dually: Double Wide

[SCOTI]

Got the front a-arms installed. After some tweaks to the new Moog BJ's that I already had, they fit w/o issue.

I like PB's set-up alot as it made installation very easy. I was able to put the u-bolts in w/the nuts turned a couple of threads. I slipped the shafts into the u-bolts & tightend them up. Then, I lifted the a-arm bushing barrels up to the crossshaft & slipped the Delrin bushings sleeves in place. Boom.... done.

With that done, I moved on to the sway bar install. Two steps forward, one step back. I was under the assumption that PB's arms accept a C10 based sway bar that used end-links vs the bushing clamps so that's what I bought. Wrong. These arms require the Addco/PB spec'd sway bar (no longer recommended because of supply reliability) or Ride Techs Musclebar. So I have a HD 1.25" OE bar w/new poly bushings, a new 1.375 Bell Tech bar w/poly bushings, & now a Musclebar on the way.

While waiting for the sway bar, I'm moving on to correcting some air leaks & getting to the bottom of the reoccurring leaky master cyl issue. Gotta get this thing drivable so I can validate reliability. Trying to have it functional for Lonestar Throwdown by end of February.

[aggie91]

Don't you just hate when things are going smoothly, then BAAM, it all comes to a stop.

[lolife99]

SCOTI,... what is the difference between the Addco bar and your Belltech bar?

[Jonboy]

I have a new master in the box if you end up needing it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

SCOTI,... what is the difference between the Addco bar and your Belltech bar?

Width.
I understood PB was having Addco build a spec bar for him for the narrowed track width arms/Dropmember. I didn't realize the stock length arms used a custom built bar as well other than up-sized to 1.25" vs their catalog offered 1.125" unit.

Since Addco was having issues completing timely deliveries, I ordered the bigger bar that was similarly priced, in stock, & shipped the same day.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

I have a new master in the box if you end up needing it.

No need for a master cyl.... but I would like to peel yours back to verify the pin length between the mstr cyl & vac booster on your OE vacuum brake truck.

[Jonboy]

I have kind of bastardized my truck. It now has a 1/2 ton master and booster in it. My old booster was full of brake fluid.

[SCOTI]

Ahh.... I was hoping it was still the 3/4 stuff just so I could compare.

[SCOTI]

Booster & master cylinder reunited after fixing the paint damage on the booster . . ..... again.

With that done I decided to fire the truck up Thursday night & verify some exhaust temps. Again.... it wouldn't start. It's like the fuel supply is bleeding back as it takes forever (minutes) vs immediate start-up like a TBI set-up should. I initially attributed it to cold temps & sitting idle/not ran for 8+ weeks. Once started it seemed to idle & run fine after several warm up minutes.

So my buddy stopped by on Sat to see progress & I went to crank it up after explaining the Thursday night issue. It did the exact same thing. It just doesn't want to start & it seems to be a fuel supply issue since it will start after several minutes of trying to get it going. Once running, again it idled & revved fine. Frustrating.....

Sat I worked on the stainless exhaust for my buddy's 56 wagon project but took enough time to run downtown & pick-up about 8yards of vinyl & foam for the seats. The supplier had very limited choices on cloth so I'm @ a fork in the road. I have a 2nd choice but I'm getting a lot of raised eyebrows when I mention it (tweed). But after showing the colors, it's usually a "yea, that matches pretty good" response. I'm still looking for a better cloth option because I feel there's a need for the contrasting materials.

The sway bar indicates a Monday delivery so that should button up the front suspension early this week. I'll do a shop alignment & schedule a visit to my buddy's work for the alignment rack. I'm also trying to work out the logistics of getting the dually bed out & flipped on end to allow for clean-up of the underside of things & a little satin black detailing. Once that's done, I'll get the bed installed & make an appointment for a bed liner spray date.

Interior thrash next....

[Hankster]

Thanks for the update! Can't wait to see pictures of interior.

[SCOTI]

Well..... My buddy coined it "Scot Luck" years ago & for a reason. I got the Ride Tech Musclebar today as indicated. I opened it @ lunch & it looks very nice. I like the lighter weight & felt it would make install much more pleasant.

One thing I feel that would make this part better, is if it would actually fit. Per the instructions, I removed the OE sway bar pedestals. This was quick & easy as I technically already had removed the rivets a while back & had them bolted in. You align the rear mounting holes on the frame rail w/the rear mounting holes of the sway bar bushing brackets:

For 73-87
Bolt the new MuscleBar to the frame
rail using the poly bushing and bracket.
The rear hole for the factory sway bar
mount will be reused for the rear hole
in the new bracket. The front hole
must be drilled with a 3/8” bit. Four
3/8” x 1 ¼” bolts, Nylok nuts, and eight
flat washers will secure it to the frame.

When I attempted to bolt the bushing brackets to the frame rails using the rear holes as the locating guide, the bar makes contact w/the front splash shield that ties the rails together. My solution was to try utilizing the OE pedestals but installing the bushings in on top of the pedestals vs under them. This helped clear the splash shield.

The next item is the bar has some 'bushing stops/collars' (for lack of a better solution) welded to it. It appears they are intended to center the bar & limit it from walking side to side. When I put the bushings on & butt them against the stops, the bushing brackets don't align w/the C/L of the frame/pedestal holes. I didn't measure @ the time but they're @ least .500-.750 off.

It seems I will have to remove the stops/collars on the bar to allow the bushing brackets to line up (there's not really enough material on the brackets to 'oval' them in an attempt to align the pieces).

Very frustrating.....

[Hankster]

Your just having the run-a-round aren't ya? Sorry about your luck. I understand it though!

[SCOTI]

Well.... I was able to mock the sway bar up in place. The only way it would go directly on the frame rail would be by drilling all new holes for the frame bushings. But, if I did that, the bar still made contact w/the C30 xmember gussets that tie the rails to the center of the xmember. If I utilized the pedestals, there was just enough clearance so that's how I put it together. The bushings are sandwiched between the frame rail & inner/top side of the pedestals.

I then has to elongate the pedestal-to-frame mounting holes 3/8" & the bushing-to-pedestal holes the same. This put the ends of the bar about parallel to the ground & allowed me to get the end links @ approx the same angles (not quite vertical).

I'm waiting on the brackets to dry now & then can reassemble everything again.

[aggie91]

I know that can be frustrating. But, sounds like you got thru it and found a solution. Post up some pics once you have it all back together.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I know that can be frustrating. But, sounds like you got thru it and found a solution. Post up some pics once you have it all back together.

As requested.....

[SCOTI]

A couple more to show the bushing mounting position & clearance hole in the frame for the zerk fitting.....

[SCOTI]

The mounting holes for the pedestal to the frame had to be slotted to shift the pedestal over (farther apart) as much as possible....

[SCOTI]

I could only move the pedestals a small amount because there just wasn't enough material to remove any more & still be safe. I reassembled everything but still couldn't get the bushings in place because of the width of the collars welded to the bar (RED ARROW).

So to get more adjustment, I slotted the bushing to pedestal holes (WHITE ARROWS) which allowed the bushings to shift farther apart....

[lolife99]

SCOTI,... I think the MuscleBar on my blazer has no collars welded to the bar.
I always wondered how you kept the bar in the center of the vehicle with the "RideTech style" end links.
I centered the bar when I installed it,... but who knows if it's still centered on the frame now.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

SCOTI,... I think the MuscleBar on my blazer has no collars welded to the bar.
I always wondered how you kept the bar in the center of the vehicle with the "RideTech style" end links.
I centered the bar when I installed it,... but who knows if it's still centered on the frame now.

I liked the concept of the collars to limit movement & the Posi-links. Now that I have them in my posession, I'm not getting the 'warm & fuzzies' about the links. I expected the 'joint' portion to be much more precise or tighter (imagine a new lower BJ vs. a 40yr old BJ). These feel like a worn out joint & have very little resistance. But, like the Delrin style a-arm bushings, less resistance = less friction or smooth, controlled, bind free movement. I do recall hearing N2TRUX had snapped one when his truck was raised in the air so I'm hoping that's not an issue (I need to verify the info & ask him specifics).

But, I'll see how things work as is for now. If necessary, I'll fab a new end link arrangment that's closer to the traditional bolt/bushing/sleeve set-ups.

[lolife99]

I agree with your assessment of the end links.
I originally thought it was to help with articulation on "air ride" vehicles.
At least yours doesn't have the hidious "bed liner" style coating on the bar like mine does.
I guess I expected more out of a sway bar that retails for $500.

The RideTech MuscleBar on my '61 BelAir is a much nicer piece for the same money.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I agree with your assessment of the end links.
I originally thought it was to help with articulation on "air ride" vehicles.
At least yours doesn't have the hidious "bed liner" style coating on the bar like mine does.
I guess I expected more out of a sway bar that retails for $500.

The RideTech MuscleBar on my '61 BelAir is a much nicer piece for the same money.

Hhmm..... $400 through Summit Racing.

I would have waited on PB's upcoming unit but they still appear to be several weeks away (more than 2wks ) from completion of the prototype. Then there's the possiblity of a revision process & pre-production stuff before I see them filling any orders ..... That being said, Mr P has a way of tweaking things to be better. My bet is the PB marketed sway bar will be worthy of purchase.

[SCOTI]

I plan to install the headliner this weekend so I needed to get the rear dome light sorted out. Originally, this thing had aftermarket conversion van type dome lights w/the adjustable 'spotlight' style of lighting. They're not very attractive IMO & were melted bad where the bulbs snap in place.

I wanted a clean OE appearance so I ordered some factory replacement dome lights. I got 2 of the standard cab units: 1 for the center of the cab & a 2nd for the back wall. The issue was the aftermarket units that were in there previously were just kind of randomly attached (1 screw holding the center light; the rear light was attached to the headliner shell). The center light had provisions for proper installation of the factory light housing (correct pre-cut hole & screw clips); the rear wall did not. I corrected that issue.

New hole created & cleaned up....

[SCOTI]

Wires routed w/grommets....

[SCOTI]

Bezel & lense installed....