1987 GMC V1500 Sierra Classic LS swap/build

[NastyBuzzard]

Finally got all the wiring I am going to need out... Starting to look more intimidating!



Started cleaning it up but man is it gunked up.. What do yall normally use to clean?



In its resting place for now...





Most of everything I need or am using for my swap.



To be continued...

[y5mgisi]

I personally like oven cleaner.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

I personally like oven cleaner.

Yeah I have never tried it... I should buy stock in how much brake cleaner & purple power I used.

I will definitely try oven cleaner. Any brand in particular?

Also any secrets to removing manifolds without shearing bolts? Also every time I try to remove the little heat deflectors off the manifolds they shear too.

I really need to decide if I am going to try the egr less truck manifolds or bite the bullet and buy LS1 style or TBSS style ones..

Also anything I should definitely replace while I have engine out? Oil pan gasket, rear main seal et cetera. Trying to do things right but I am really on a strict budget at the moment.

I also got to find a way to do the shift kit while I got trans out as well. I have a trans-go HD2 kit laying around.. I have a master rebuild kit for the 4l60e laying around too just don't have the necessary tools to go ahead and rebuild it. Also trying to decide if I want the corvette servo or not... I liked it in my 700r4 thats currently in my truck.

[NastyBuzzard]

Also wondering if I should make my own mounts or just buy the dirty dingos... Ugh...

[Flatpat]

Have you looked at diy4x and their motor mount plates?

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

Have you looked at diy4x and their motor mount plates?

I don't think I have. I was wanting some that would keep motor in original place so driveshaft wont need to be modified or anything like that. I currently run a 700r4 so I was hoping to keep everything in original place. I was also hoping to be able to keep the compressor on the engine as well so possibly could run it later.

Another member on here sent me some CAD drawings and models for swap plates so I could make my own.. I am just liking the dirty dingos b/c of the adjustability and so I can slide the engine around if I absolutely need to.

I just looked at the ones you are talking about and they are by far the cheapest set I have seen! However, they don't look like they have much adjustability. Any one use these before?

[NastyBuzzard]

Also anyone ever seen 6 lug hummer wheels?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111374462093...#ht_889wt_1053

I am wondering if they are like the trailblazer and have a different lug patter. I think they would look good on a squarebody.

[Flatpat]

I used the Advance Adapters brand (same basic mount as diy4x) on my jimmy and they lined up everything just like it was before but I reused my transmission. I don't know with you using the new transmission how much adjustment you would need or if you would have to change shafts lengths.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

I used the Advance Adapters brand (same basic mount as diy4x) on my jimmy and they lined up everything just like it was before but I reused my transmission. I don't know with you using the new transmission how much adjustment you would need or if you would have to change shafts lengths.

I am under the impression that 700r4 and 4l60e are same dimensions. They are both 4x4 and I'll be using the transfer case from a 91 big blazer. Np241 I think.

[Flatpat]

Shouldn't need adjustable mounts then. I say if you can make your own, why not? Or use the diy4x plates. I heard nothing but good things about diy4x, I plan on using their flip kit.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

Shouldn't need adjustable mounts then. I say if you can make your own, why not? Or use the diy4x plates. I heard nothing but good things about diy4x, I plan on using their flip kit.

I can I just don't want to get to the point of having it ready to go in and something be wrong and have to express ship something...

[NastyBuzzard]

Here are some drawings I did for mounts.. The ones I may make.





This is one I found online..

[NastyBuzzard]

So I also plan to paint as much of the frame as I can while I have the bed and front clip off.

What do you guys recommend for chassis paint/rust preventor? I've seen people use rust bullet, eastwood, and por15. I remember doing my buddy's 77 chevy shortbed with a summit house brand chassis paint kit and it turned out nice. I looked for that summit kit and found one that says it covers 80 sq ft and is just a quart. Is that enough?

[NastyBuzzard]

Bad news today.. Like motivation killing bad news.

Tank won't fit. Even if I cut the ribs under the bed and slide it back it still would hang way to low below the body line.












Now its like I have no clue what to do.

I want to use the 01 donors wiring. So I will some how have to integrate it into working both tanks, the selector switch, and selector valve.. How do I do that?

Also I know the fuel gauge signal is different my 87 is 0-120 ohm and the newer vehicles are 90-240 ohm. I want to use the 01 cluster in my 87 like I showed before... but how???

Also to use the tbi tanks I will need the higher flowing pumps, ( ep381?? ), a buddy said I could possible use the sender from a vortec truck which would provide the correct ohm signal. Possible??? Any ideas?

Also for the selector switch, I am using a pollock one now that I replaced last year, got it from autozone. Do I need one stronger for the added pressure?

Also I have no idea which an fittings or what to order, I know I will need high pressure fuel line and the smooth clamps. Help?

I just feel really freaking bummed right now. I was banking on that tank fitting. I guess I am an idiot... Any ideas if a s10 tank or something would? Any ideas at all? I am reaching out.

Also is it possible to buy a 20 gal tank and just use it instead of the duals?

[NastyBuzzard]

I measured the tank I dropped from the d.s. it was roughly 40" LONG, 12" WIDE, AND 11" TALL. I did some calculations and volume came out to show it was about 22 gal.. I thought the 20 gal tanks were 50" long?

[Jonboy]

This is just my $.02, so take it for what it is worth. Swapping all of that stuff over to the '87 is pretty ambitious. I personally like the original stuff better; it is what makes a square a square to me. I understand reusing the factory harness and all. That is one area of my swap I bit the bullet and bought a stand alone harness. plastic connectors that have been subject to 15 years of heat cycles are bound to be weak, and I didn't want to deal with the hassles. You can use the dual tanks you have, just upgrade the pumps and the switching valve, and you should be golden. IIRC, you already have the electric cluster. That will read the VSS output from the later model PCM- another problem solved. The 4L60E and 700R4 should be the same length, so use your transfer case as a starting point for the mounts and work your way forward.

This is just how I would do it- your mileage may vary.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

This is just my $.02, so take it for what it is worth. Swapping all of that stuff over to the '87 is pretty ambitious. I personally like the original stuff better; it is what makes a square a square to me. I understand reusing the factory harness and all. That is one area of my swap I bit the bullet and bought a stand alone harness. plastic connectors that have been subject to 15 years of heat cycles are bound to be weak, and I didn't want to deal with the hassles. You can use the dual tanks you have, just upgrade the pumps and the switching valve, and you should be golden. IIRC, you already have the electric cluster. That will read the VSS output from the later model PCM- another problem solved. The 4L60E and 700R4 should be the same length, so use your transfer case as a starting point for the mounts and work your way forward.

This is just how I would do it- your mileage may vary.

So you are saying make the harness standalone and use the 87's wiring?

Thing is, the wiring from the 87 is from 1987. It needs to be replaced. My power windows are so slow even with new motors, my headlights and brake lights are so dim and they have new bulbs. It just not like a newer vehicle where everything is run off relays and receives the full voltage it needs. On the 87 the voltage drops so much before it gets to where it needs to be.

I was in the process of swapping it all to relays until I got the LS donor and I was like hey! 2 birds, one stone!

I love squarebody's but I am all about integrating the old with the new. I think this looks awesome!



I just am trying to make the truck as efficient and dependable as possible.

[old yelr]

I agree with Jonboy, upgrade the tanks with new pumps and focus your energy on a different battle. I'm not even sure that you need to change the switching valve as you already have fuel injection. Check out the thread by Gordonr1973 called "The Ayatollah of Rusty Hole'a 1987 SWB 6.0 4L80E" for some inspiration. He's running a 6.0L and has the factory dual tank set up. Lot's of great stuff on his build. Lots of information on this site you just have to dig a little.

[y5mgisi]

This is the same stuff i have been saying from the get go. THere is probably every bit of 100 LS swaps on this site alone. I bet about 2 of them have been as ambitious as yours. And i bet it took them more than a couple years to complete them. Im not saying yours is the same, but we have LS swaps in everything from a 48 chevy pickup to a 90 suburban on this site. And most of them just did a stand alone engine/trans harness and got the truck up and running over a few months.

I dont know how much you have lurked around here, but how many half finished projects have you seen for sale because they lost motivation half way through? Do you think you have more motivation than they did when they started? Cause i bet you dont. Ambitious projects are always started with good intentions, but people leave out the detail work involved with building a fully custom truck. Its not a winter project. Its a couple year or more commitment with LONG stints of no reward/payoff and only the blood sweat and tears to break you down. Its TOUGH!

I guess what im saying is take a really good hard inside look and decide if you want to work on the truck for the next couple years with no payoff in between other than the fun of working on it, or do you want to drive it before the summer is over?

There is also nothing that says you have to do it all in one shot. You can fairly easily get the truck up and running and then fart around with the gauge/dash setup. Hell you could even get a whole junkyard dash setup and put it all together in your living room in the cold winter months and then come spring time, do the dash swap on the truck that you now have thousands of miles of enjoyment in. I say, just get it running and driving as quick and easy as possible, and then have several isolated projects after that. Its a way higher chance of success that way.

[NastyBuzzard]

I have read the ayatollah thread as well as a bunch others, freds, silvers and so on.

My thing is I want to run the wiring setup from the 01. I want to do it so I can use the 01 cluster and so on.

Y5 I can't see how you project this to take years? The way I planned to do it was the simplest way possible.

Pull 87 wiring, install 01 wiring and splice in 87 headlight sockets, bed wiring, door wiring, et cetera.

Using the 01 wiring prevents me from having to initially send off the PCM to get modded which saves $100s of dollars as well as sending off the wiring harness to be converted to stand alone which is more $100s of dollars.

I just didn't want to go standalone b/c I want as many benifits from the newer setup as possible.

I don't know if you have ever seen where people switch everything to relay power on these truck but it improves power windows and headlights/tail lights.

I want the 01 cluster b/c it is more informative, more accurate and would look neat in there, same for the steering column.

Currently my only hurdle is the fuel setup and it is only a hurdle b/c mostly of the signal outputs for fuel gauge. I mean I could always mount a seperate fuel gauge that reads the old style 0-120ohms but I'd prefer it all to work like it should.

My motivation is high, mostly because I love working on this truck. Will I ever sell it? NO!! It has way too much sentimental value. Which is why it will get finished, this truck and me have been through hell together and at my brokest moments I have never considered selling it.

I have stopped all projects to work on getting this truck done like I want. I am just trying to gather all the parts necessary so when I decide it is time to yank the 350 tbi/700r4 setup, I will be ready.

That is where I need help, making sure I have the correct parts I need.

I don't want to spend time and money to do this one way to get it going just to have to go back and spend more time and money getting it like I want.

Also, if you check out Captain Americas build 68 shortbed/fleetside, he is doing something very similar and already has it driveable.

Also I have seen a few people swap 73-87 bodys onto the newer style frames and utilize the newer style wiring/fuel setup and it works excellent. Unfortunately for me none of them have done in depth build threads and most have just paid to get it done.

[mcbassin]

Looks overwhelming to say the least. I have taken on some of these type of projects back in the day. I used to be full of energy too If you're up for the challenge go for it.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Looks overwhelming to say the least. I have taken on some of these type of projects back in the day. I used to be full of energy too If you're up for the challenge go for it.

I'm not too old just yet!! I've got the energy and the motivation. The motivation I get is mostly from reading everyone elses threads, they get me pumped up!

I really enjoy doing all this, it never seems like work to me. I mean I guess I could be inside watching tv but I like to get stuff done!

I am thinking that if I cant find a sending unit to fit into the 87 tanks that will give me the 90-240 ohm reading that I may just put in a 90 ohm resistor between the pump assy and the gauge, that way it will atleast be somewhat correct when I am on an empty tank. I've been consulting the electrical engineer in my dept at work.

My friend is still convinced that I can use a combination of the 87 sending unit and one from a 96 or so Vortec truck. Still have to investigate that.

Once I get it figured out what sending unit I need I will be ordering a butt load of parts!!! Sending units, pumps, AN fittings (which I have no clue which ones I need), dirty dingos, high pressure line and anything else I can think of.

I still need to finish cleaning engine, installing shift kit in trans and all. I want to make sure I have as much as I need and as much as I can get done before yanking the heart out of the 87!

Also trying to decide whether to order a 20 gal tank and just use it and eliminate the two 16 gal tanks. I think the 20 gal tank would be sufficient especially if I am able to pump out 20mpg out of this swap!! Also got to figure out a way to use the pressure switch and get tank sealed and run a non vented cap.

[Jonboy]

You could run a rear mounted Blazer tank also. Since you have a longbed, the 20 gallon tanks will work.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

You could run a rear mounted Blazer tank also. Since you have a longbed, the 20 gallon tanks will work.

Not really interested in blazer tank Bc of filler neck.

20 gal seems like best bet. So I need to buy a 20 gal baffled tank with new sender, modify that sender for the 90-240 ohms and install the higher pressure pump.... Sound right?

My thing is I know jack about what an fittings to buy and all that jazz.. Idk if running high pressure fuel line with smooth clamps will be strong enough.

[Jonboy]

That sounds like a plan. I ran fuel injection hose with FI clamps on mine. Granted, it hasn't run yet, but I think it should work.