Fix and Sale 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 K2500

[landarts]

Made more progress on bedside removal this weekend. Finally got it off after a few more sessions with a cut off grinder and a small cold chisel. As you can see in the first picture the bed bolts that hold the bed to the frame were in bad shape and I decided to grind down the heads and then drill center a bit, then hit them with a punch. Took about 1/2 hour to get the bed so I cold move it to remove front panel bolts and the two screws at the top. Those came of pretty easy except top two needed a little heating with map gas from the back.

The last picture is to show how good the wheel arch area is with no rust, this will be cut out and used on the other bedside that is going back on truck. This bedside was really straight but had a little rust on the inside tub area. So a little cut and weld to get it back to a solid bedside.

[landarts]

First picture is the bedside I will be putting on truck, you can see that there is rust in the wheel tub area. I was able to cut out a section from the original bedside and place it on the inside for fit. Next I will be transferring the measurements over and cut out the bad and tack in the good. Last one is the bedside test fit on to the truck, will need to transfer trim holes from old bedside nd do a little touch up body work and mount lights....should be good to go!

[landarts]

Got the inner wheel well area cut out of the old bedside and transferred over to the new one. All welded in and about half of it ground down, need to wrap up around the arch area withe grinder flap disc. Next will be to transfer trim molding holes and finish any other metal and body work. Purchase new bolts for bedside, inner wheel well and bolts that bolt bed to frame.

When I had the bed on the engine hoist to lift and place a few 2x4's under the bed and frame to elevate it and make it easy to slide back and forth while trying to get the bedsides off. I was amazed at how great of shape the under side is, minus rust is always a good thing. I did find one small section on only one of the bed rails that had some rust. I was looking at how things were engineered and wondered why it rusted there and came to the conclusion that it just traps water and dirt, maybe some large drain holes would have prevented it.

[landarts]

Wrapping up with the bedside repair this weekend. First image shows where the rust issues were with the new-used bedside, under the wheel well and extended into the bolt down locations either side of the wells. Second one show where we are taking from the original bedside. Third image is shows after cutting out. To transfer the cut lines I bolted the cut section to the other bedside through the wheel wheel holes, then scribed with a carbide tip and cut it. Fourth image is after I welded it in and did a little bodywork. Last thing to do with bedside is transfer trim hole locations and reinstall rear tail lights.

Next I will work on the front passenger fender removal and replace with donor fender. At this point I will be done with replacing two damaged areas and all rust repair.

Running total so far for the truck expenses:

-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97
-new 3-way valve for aux. tank with fittings $28
-pvc valve and oil fill cap $16
-radiator $129
-passenger fender $60
-paint supplies from Napa Auto $133
-radiator hoses, heater hoses, extra fittings $52
-more radiator items, lower hose, thermostat and carpet kit $160
-floor underlayment $38
-seat cover $32
-electric fuel pump $82
-front fender and bedside $260


TOTAL $2574

Listed below are the new items replaced or added to truck

Drive Train
-radiator
-radiator and heater hoses
-carburetor rebuild kit
-fuel filter and hoses
-fuel sending unit
-3 way valve and hoses
-pvc valve and oil fill cap
-battery and new cables
-rag joint for steering shaft
-replaced some wiring
-oil, antifreeze, transmission fluid and filters

Interior
-dash pad
-shifter knob
-heater control switch
-heater lever and bulb
-seat cover
-floor underlayment
-carpet kit
-dome light
-arm rest
-door weather strip
-door sills
-inner door handles

Exterior
-rear lens kit
-inner rockers
-outer rockers
-floor sections
-front mounts
-lower passenger outer door
-single stage paint for new metal repair areas
-used donor panels for front passenger fender and drivers bedside

[Greg58]

Looks Great.

[Dieselwrencher]

That turned out really nice!

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Greg58

Looks Great.

Thanks Greg I appreciate it.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That turned out really nice!

Thanks, it was a bunch of welding and grinding. Not to mention dolly and hammer with a little body filler mixed in. I look at something like this and think that it is not going to take long to knock out. Then when it is all over I realize it took about 2 to 3 times what I thought it would. Wish I could charge myself by the hour, I would be making some serious coin.

[landarts]

Moving on to getting the front passenger fender and wheel well off, so I can replace with a used set. Picture 1 is the fender showing the worst of what needs fixing and a few other small dings. Picture 2 is showing how bad the wheel wheel is dented in and creased. Picture 3 is the extra fender well I had at the storage lot, great shape and no rust. Picture 4 is the fender well mounted and picture five fender mounted and areas that need metal work and filler ready to go.

All in all it took me about 1.5 hours to remove the bad fender and fender well and get the next set on the truck. I only put enough bolts in a few places to secure both and make them tight to the body so I can work the fender. Once I get it straight I will pull off to prime and paint the whole fender. While it is off I will put all nuts and bolts and fasteners in a jar of evaporust to make them like new. Last thing will be to transfer over fender badge and trim.

[landarts]

Got the fender cleaned up with a little dolly and hammer and some rage filler. Finished off this morning with some etching primer. The last photo is the original fender with damage. I will cut the fender where the red lines are and have 2 perfectly good replacement panels to use another day or sell on the forum. This mornings work was about 3 hours from start to finish. While filler was drying I was working on other items like remove trim and badges from old fender.

Next I will transfer over the upper trim holes that need to be drilled out and the GMC Custom 2500 badge. Will need to weld shut the other holes and then get a coat of filler primer on. I will remove the fender for that and then finish of with a coat of single stage paint to match which is left over from doing the rockers and floor.

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by landarts

Got the fender cleaned up with a little dolly and hammer and some rage filler. Finished off this morning with some etching primer. The last photo is the original fender with damage. I will cut the fender where the red lines are and have 2 perfectly good replacement panels to use another day or sell on the forum. This mornings work was about 3 hours from start to finish. While filler was drying I was working on other items like remove trim and badges from old fender.

Next I will transfer over the upper trim holes that need to be drilled out and the GMC Custom 2500 badge. Will need to weld shut the other holes and then get a coat of filler primer on. I will remove the fender for that and then finish of with a coat of single stage paint to match which is left over from doing the rockers and floor.

I would love to follow along with how you repair that fender. I have a similar situation with the stock one from my truck. I imagine you are cutting it so you can get to the back side to do the metal work on it?

[Dieselwrencher]

You have done some great dent repair and it sounds like you did it wicked fast too! That repaired fender looks great!

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

You have done some great dent repair and it sounds like you did it wicked fast too! That repaired fender looks great!

Actually I was surprised how fast it went, one more go over and it should be ready to shoot some color.

Originally Posted by mjensen

I would love to follow along with how you repair that fender. I have a similar situation with the stock one from my truck. I imagine you are cutting it so you can get to the back side to do the metal work on it?

No cutting needed to fix the dent that was crushed in. When the fender is removed from the wheel well there is complete access to the backside for fixing. In picture 1 you can see how much it is pushed in. Picture 2 is another spot that was dented and was able to get access from backside. Picture 3 shows the original dent pushed out and a few more dings that need attention.

Here is what I did with the picture 1 dent. I heated up with Map gas to get the metal a little more excited to move. I did this in a circular motion and not hot enough to burn paint off. Then I started working it with a piece of hardwood and a hammer. I just kept doing this process until I had most of it pushed bak into place, switching to different size pieces of wood so that I was not adding more dents to the fender. Also trying to go slow so that I did not create a bunch of high spots on the other side. Once I got it to where I thought it was good enough to start working the front side I sprayed a little bit of etching primmer on it in that area. After it dried i sanded to reveal high spots, then knocked down with a pick hammer and dolly. I also used a metal file in a few spots. Proceeded with a few coats of Rage Ultimate filler.

Picture 2 dent was hammer and dolly only, That dent came out really nice and need minimal filler to get it to blend.

Picture 3 dents were all small dings almost evenly spaced, so I used a hammer and dolly for most of that and laid the filler in one long path. Knocked it down with a longboard to reveal low spots, then filled one more time.

Picture 4 shows the fender after some sanding with longboard and a long thin Durablock. Sprayed with Martin Senour Tec Ultimate etching primer.

I am a novice at this and learning something new every time I attempt another repair. The way I do it may not be the correct way but it works for me. I do enjoy the challenge in rebuilding and fixing these old trucks, I guess my greatest asset would be that I am not afraid to dive into something that I never have done before.

[landarts]

Started on sanding down the used bedside and getting it ready for a small amount of filler. Really surprised at how little there will be to do on this one. Also on my way home from wrapping up a deal on 2 K10 4x4's, I stopped at a Tractor Supply store to buy some nuts, bolts, washers, etc... for bedside and some to hold the bed down. The guy that works the checkout threw all the plastic bags up on the weigh machine and says that will be $7.40 cents. If I would have went to the Home Depot or a hardware store that would have been over $25. Guess I know where to buy nuts and bolts now, and they are getting ready to build a new Tractor Supply down the street from my house later this year.......Score!

The bed looks funny sitting like that, I have it un-bolted from the frame and sitting up on 2x4 so it is for me to slide around to work on. When I get closer to paint I will remove and place on bed dolly that I made a few years back out of 2x6's and rolling casters.

[landarts]

This afternoon I will try to lay down some of the filler needed to get a few of the low spots taken care of after dolly work. I have three small holes on top of bedside that need to be welded shut, looks like they might have had a camper bolted down. Those spots are sitting high and after I weld will try to knock down with pick hammer and then grind flush. The welded in nuts in that hold on the fender wheels will get a little Kroll oil and chase it with a tap to clean out the threads. Once I get all the items straight I will remove it and the front passenger fender to paint off of the truck. Both will get a little 3M undercoating also for good measure. That should just about do it for final metal repair on the body. This will make the truck a good candidate for someone to drive the way it is or move forward with a complete paint job.

Have to get back on my 72 Cheyenne project and have another nice 69 Custom trim 4x4 coming in about 3 weeks. Here are a few pictures of the Light Blue 4x4, in very good shape, interior excellent and no rust in rockers.

[landarts]

Wrapped up the few dings on the side of the bedside and welded shut a few holes on top of bedrail and on rear post. Three times filling and sanding, a little pick hammer work and grinding down welds. Mix in a little Rage filler, etching primer and a wet sand with a 320 wet/dry sponge. Just about ready for primer and paint.

While I was waiting on filler or etching primer to dry, I worked on getting the rear bumper striped of old paint. I will paint it when I paint the front bumper that I stripped.

[landarts]

Not to many updates right now with all the baseball tournaments going on. Will be back at it this week with shooting the driver side rear bed panel in and out with filler primmer and prepping for paint. I will be shooting the single stage Copper poly 522 just like the rockers and bottom of doors. I also have both front and back bumpers stripped and ready for GM 521 white. Going to attempt to all in the same day if not breaking up into two morning possibly.

The only thing that might get in the way is going to pick up the 1969 4x4 Custom Light Blue. Other than that I see this GMC being pretty much ready to go after I possibly find some 235/85R16 tires for it.

[Joesjunk]

Nice work

[msgross]

I always hit Tractor Supply for nuts and bolts, grade 5 and 8 available too...

nice build, is it sold yet?

[landarts]

No the truck has not sold yet. The first buyer had to back out after the wife said no more project trucks. Which was not a problem at all and I understand that situation completely. I really have not tried to sell it yet, there has been a few people PM saying they are interested. I want to finish up with painting the rear drivers side bed panel, front passenger fender and both bumpers. Then it will be ready for sale.

[landarts]

Here are pictures from the two truck deal I finalized and a rebuilt 292 I picked up yesterday. Been working on this deal for the last 6 weeks. that will be another great story to tell how this all developed.

• Photo 1 is of the 69 1/2 ton 4x4 with manual transmission and 327 motor, originally was a 292 motor.
• Photo 2 is the rebuilt 292 motor, this will go back into the Blue truck after I paint and dress up a first
• Photo 3 is the 72 1/2 ton 4x4 Cheyenne with 350, automatic, rally wheels, etc.

[Miller's Metal]

Quick question what did you use to clean the rear bumper ? nice job BTW!

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Miller's Metal

Quick question what did you use to clean the rear bumper ? nice job BTW!

I used a combination of a flap disc at 100 grit on a 4 1/2" angle grinder and a DA with 180. I took about 30 minutes to strip the bumper.

[landarts]

Got a few things this week to help with the projects. I purchased a set of pneumatic tire casters, 2 swivel and 2 fixed for my body/bed cart. It had hard casters on it, great for the shop and not so great when I wanted to move to the back yard where it is gravel. Now with the air up tires it will be a breeze.

Back when I was shooting paint on the rockers and bottom of doors my mini touch up gun went bad. So I had to use a new full size gun I purchased and I was was really pleased with how it atomized the paint and felt in my hand. Loved the new full size gun so I decided to try their version of it in a mini touch up gun. It is a Astro Pneumatic EuroHvt1 with the 1.0 mm tip. If it is anything like the other gun it will be one of my new favorites. I often use the mini guns for shooting parts and interior of cab. Also I bought the gun on Amazon and have 30 days to try it out, if I dont like I will return it. Amazon has a really good return policy without hassles and since I am a Prime member does not cost to send it back. Win Win!

[Dieselwrencher]

Wow, more great trucks you found! I really dig the Cheyenne K10 though!

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Wow, more great trucks you found! I really dig the Cheyenne K10 though!

Had to work hard and be patient for these 2 trucks and the 292 motor. It was a deal in the making over a 8 week period and 400 miles round trip to drag them home.

The 72 Cheyenne will be a nice truck one day. It will need rockers and some inner rocker replacement and possibly a little work on bottom of doors. The grill is pretty much toast also. But that is the original 557 paint code Dark Olive primary and Light Olive secondary paint. The light 69 Blue truck is in much better shape, especially the interior and outside body and grill.