norms 55 chevy pu build

[dsraven]

if youhave the front springs out you could easily find out how much to cut by moving the suspension through a cycle upward until it bottoms on the suspension stop. remove the snubber and go right to the full top movement.

[washington blue]

dsraven thanks, I think that is what I will do so I don't cut more than necessary,first I want to get everything aligned just right.

[dsraven]

after cutting you can bend the edge over for a nice smooth edge, then hang some thin rubber pieces with some plastic rivets from the body shop aisle. that will keep the edge lower than the steel but flexible so if the suspension comes up a bit it just moves the rubber out of the way. less road dirt and rock chips on the under hood items. like a splash guard I guess.

[washington blue]

I was wondering about that thanks, would I use the same product where the inner fender is near the fire wall. I know there was rubber stuff there at one time when it was new.

[dsraven]

you can actually buy that rubber as a kit, if you are talking about the stuff on the inner fender to firewall. it's called a front fender gasket kit I think.cheap too.under $20

[_Ogre]

you need #14 and #15 from this lmc catalog page
14 is the anti-squeak rubber for lower hole on the inner fender
15 is all the gaskets for the fender/inner fender
dsraven is way off... $18.90 for both

of course shipping will add on to that, i keep a wish list and try to order as much as possible at one time

[washington blue]

Thanks, if I didn't know better I'd say you guys know each other,lol.

[washington blue]

I had my daughter set up the chrome thing so I can see all the pictures now, thanks for the info Ogre.

[_Ogre]

brothers from different mothers

good to see the chrome thing work for you, photosuckit trashed a bunch of forum threads all over the world

[washington blue]

I got the front core and fender mounts made and welded on after a bunch of adjusting. Sure is nice to put the fenders on by just sitting them in place and putting on bolts. Next I have to figure out a bumper mount, it would be so easy if that anti-roll bar wasn't mounted under neath right where it is.

[washington blue]

I think I can go straight back from the bumper with 1/4 plate then angle upwards on a diagonal and weld to the outside of the frame where the 3 large holes are, at least on this side.

[dsraven]

here is what I did on my envoy frame swap project with a 57. maybe some ideas. I used rectangular tubing. my rad support bolts up to the brackets on the upper area that have the holes in their front sides and uses universal aftermarket urethane mounts from energy suspension, the rad drops into those flanges with the holes in them (stock envoy rad) on the inside of the frame extensions. the bumper brackets bolt to the front of the frame extensions which have holes drilled and tubes inside the extensions so the bolts don't collapse the extensions when tightened.

[washington blue]

That is a well planned setup.

[dsraven]

have you thought about c channel instead of flat plate? more strength from sideways pressure so possibly less vibration/rattle and an overall stronger extension.

[washington blue]

Looks like it has been a year and a half since I posted here. Summer months I work on other things, farming, custom mowing, driving hot rod so no truck work. Last winter my wife decided it was time to get both her knees replaced so I spent the winter in the house being her waiter. She is doing great with 2 steel knees so it was well worth it. This winter after a really nasty wet year I am finally ready to go back into the shop and see how it goes. Hopefully there will be some truck build stuff soon.

[dsraven]

sorry, uploaded the wrong pic last time.. maybe this will help somebody?
keep plugging away, soon you'll run outta jobs to do and realize you can actually drive it.

[dsraven]

using the donor rad in the donor rad mounts, those larger parts with the big holes in them facing each other inside the frame horns. the other mounts, higher up on the frame horns, are for the actual rad support to fit into with urethane insulators. the rest of the body parts on my truck are original donor parts, so stock OEM stuff. if using the original 55-59 mounts for cab etc then use the original rad support mounts as well. you want it all to flax like it should.a soft rad support mount and a hard cab mount could equal cracking parts because they flex at different ratios but rely on each other to move as a set as the truck flexes over speed bumps or entry/exits to parking lots etc. don't want any door to fender interference problems.

[dsraven]

my custom rad support moves everything forward so if pondering the same then consider the room required by the stock grille.

[washington blue]

I've been really careful to keep the cab mounts stock with the thick rubber in the rear both under and over the mounting pad just as the General designed, also the pads at front of cab are stock. I also was careful to keep the original radiator/fender mounts in their stock spots with plenty of room for rubber cushions. I saw that the fenders bolt solid to the cab so it has to give somewhere. What I'm wondering is, is it better to take the doors off the hinges leaving them on the cab, or better to take the hinges off the cab, leaving them bolted to the doors? Trying to plan for later after paint and ease of mounting. I am going to have them on and off a couple times real soon. thanks, Norm

[dsraven]

Fit the doors and when satisfied drill a 1/8 hole in the hinge to door mount in a couple of spots. Then remove door. Then do the same for the hinge to cab mount. When assembly comes around after paint it should be a reverse order. Hinges to cab with the predrilled references, then doors to hinges with the predrilled references. Use a roll pin through the predrilled holes to get things right. Minor adjustments required. Ensure to cover the new painted parts with tape in case interference occurs.

[washington blue]

Pre drilled holes with roll pins is an excellent idea, thanks.

[washington blue]

a while ago I made some simple bumper mounts out of 3/16 steel. With the 1/14 square tubing crossmember it is very rigid.

[washington blue]

Driver side.

[washington blue]

I welded the brackets to the bumper which eliminates the bolts. It will be easier to paint this way and smooth looking.

[washington blue]

The last few days I have been working on front fender gaps. I am not trying for perfection, just a little better. Also for the first time in 2 years it is on 4 wheels, that was a motivator seeing that. This brings me up to date. the rear end in the pic is from a 96 Ford explorer with 3.73 gears and disc brakes which should go well with the front disc brakes. Also the engine you can see in an earlier post is a 5.3 from a 2005 silverado with 63,000 miles and the trans is from the same pickup.