86 Silverado K20 12V CUMMINS Build

[brimc]

Not much to update. Spent a couple hours yesterday welding in the patch panel and cab support on the drivers side. It was too cold to take any pictures as I couldn't feel my fingers.
Today is not looking any better. Isn't it March now?

[Dieselwrencher]

Man, I feel your pain. It got up to 6* here but last night was -18* without any wind. It's March, where's spring? What is spring any way? We didn't have one last year either.

[6BT 56]

I said it before and i'll say it again . I'm sick of winter . Two years ago we planted my fields on March 16. I dont think we will make it this year . Lol. Id just be happy with some single didgit cold . All my truck $$ has been burned up the chimney this year .

[brimc]

My guess is we will still need the snow blower mar.16th. No planting till the snow melts off in June.
I seen this yesterday and had to do a double take with my cell phone. I figure this cold winter has something to do with this. When did this happen? I might have to change plans and do a Big Block conversion to save on gas prices.

[brimc]

Well still a crap load of snow and it is still cold but managed to get some work started on the old cab. This cab, the more I get into it, the more I think it should have been scrap. However, I will save it and it will be better than it was for sure!
I am working on the fire wall and the clutch hydro setup. I am going to use a complete 1st gen system. I started by cutting out the factory location with a hole saw. This is easy as there is dimples stamped in the metal. I confirmed the diameter of the seal and figured a 2.5" hole would work. Problem is that I had some rot in this area and it needed to be fixed. So I cut it out.

So I also do not need the speedo cable hole either, so I dollied the area fairly flat and made up a patch panel outa 18g. Drilled the hole and started fitting it into place.

Couple of tacks to hold it in place.

Shown from the inside with all the rot gone and not needed original metal.

Now this area of the fire wall will only support the rubber gromet/seal. There will be no additional strength required as the additional bracket supports all the pushing of the pedal.

[brimc]

So I have the old chevy pedal and the old 1st gen pedal.

I cut off the old spring holder on the chevy and the hydro rod on the 1st gen pedals

Started setting things into place. Got the gromet seated and lighty supported by a bunge cord.

Then temporary locked on the support bracket.

Then kinda set things into place by eye with clamps and small piece of angle.

I want to weld or bolt the support bracket solid to the stock chev pedal assy. If you look hard you can see a very small cut piece I slipped in there just to see how it would line everything up.

The linkage looks like it will move straight and not bind. I have it c clamped for now and I can rotate to create different angles before I weld it solid to the pedal. I want to make the bracket solid first so I can make actual strokes with the pedal/c clamp.

So I am looking for some feedback on this. Will this work? Any pros or cons I am missing?

Two things I am not sure about yet is hard stop to limit the travel of the pedal before the floor and what about spring return now that I cut of the original spring holder on the stock pedal?
Looking forward to some help on this one.

[brimc]

I tack welded and clamped the bracket to see what it looked like.

I then removed the whole assembly. I think I will weld it up a bit more solid and try some test strokes.

[Dieselwrencher]

It should work. I bet you will need to add a light spring to help pull the pedal all the way back. When I had the dodge hydros on my chevy pedal on my 72, it wouldn't come up all the way. It could have been that my pedal assembly was too tight, IDK. I think I might add more than the litle angle you have in between the clutch master mount and the brake pedal. But it definitely is looking like it should work ok. If you need more throw out of the system, you can cut the master rod and get a long threaded nut. Thread the old rod and wala, adjustable hydro.

[COS399]

I think if it were mine, I would just cut off the flat face piece that holds the master cylinder from the rest of the bracket and just weld it to the firewall. That is the way my '88 is set up but instead of welding it on the firewall the mechanic bolted it up. When I finally tear mine down to rewire and such, I plan on welding it in. It's looking good.

[6BT 56]

What your doing is very close to how I did mine . All the same parts . My pedal assy is under the floor tho. Used the same bracket as you are doing . They are fun to get out from under the stock daash eh ! I had trouble becouse the travel of the hyd assy was up before my pedal was out of travel. Thus I bent the rod going into the master when it was out of room but my foot was saying more ! Or giving more anyway . After this i did basically what Ryan mentioned and added a sleve over the remaining straight part and threaded rod on the other with a small heim joint . Works well now .

[brimc]

Thanks for the interest and feedback guys. I did some more checking and this I what I have come up with. I did consider cutting the face of the bracket and welding to the fire wall but decided against it for 2 reasons. Firewall flex due to all the push force and also with this style of master cylinder from a 1st gen, the way the seals work you would have to eliminate the large outer seal which I am sure would air leak and waterleak. I cut 2 pieces of angle and tacked them into position. I removed that very small piece that I used.

I also trimmed some off the bracket to allow pedal clearance at full stroke.


I think I also have figured out a way to re-use the stock chev return spring on the pedal by welding the pin back on in a slightly different position. I have to still install it all back on the cab to re-test the strokes etc. then mock up the spring. I am also going to install a hardstop for the pedal because right now the only pedal stop is the master cylinder inself. I will get some more pictures also. Hopefully this will help others out as I struggled a little bit on figuring out this one myself.

[Dieselwrencher]

That is looking stronger and that's a good deal about the return spring.

[brimc]

So I think I got the clutch pedal done. I have welded the bracket on the solid now.

I have a new hard stop that will contact just about full stroke on the master and a new return spring to hold the pedal.

Little splash of black and set it in place to try it out.

Full return and full stroke seems to be smooth and straight.


The seal around the master looks good and no flex on the fire wall at all.

Now onto body work. Cab rust Got alot to do before I can say its is ready for paint. Hopefully time and weather will be on my side

[Dieselwrencher]

It turned out really nice! Nice work.

[shopteacher]

All I can say is Way to hang in there! Great Info and attention to detail ! Too bad your not closer as I have a couple of divorced 205's one drivers side and the other passengers side drop!
Well spring should be about over up there and I'm looking forward to seeing more, so keep up the good work!

Cheers !!

[brimc]

Originally Posted by shopteacher

All I can say is Way to hang in there! Great Info and attention to detail ! Too bad your not closer as I have a couple of divorced 205's one drivers side and the other passengers side drop!
Well spring should be about over up there and I'm looking forward to seeing more, so keep up the good work!

Cheers !!

Thanks for the comments. I too wish you were closer as there is nothing anywhere in a 205. Still searching kijiji every week but they are very rare and made of gold up here.

[brimc]

Wow. Been 5 months since last post. Couldn't find the build, way down pg.2
Well it has been a crappy and busy couple of months. We found out of the 4th of July that my father had cancer. We all found out the same day, even him. The next 6 weeks was a battle that I would not wish on my worst enemy. He only came home once for a few rough days the 2nd week of July and passed away on the 10th of August. That was a whir wind blur of a 6 week span.
One of the last things he said to me on one of the last nights when he was still responsive was that he still wanted to see "that truck run".
Needless to say, I haven't hardly worked on the truck. But I did do some cab work in the late spring and now in this last week I worked on the engine. After I get my uploads finished on my super slow internet Ill have some updates.

[brimc]

Last spring I cut out all the rust and patched up the floors with 18gauge. I rebuilt-replaced the two skis with 3/16 angle.





Got the doors hung and setup-replaced the rockers and cab corners.







I have got the cab completely welded. Just needs some more finish sanding then it will be ready for the POR15 treatment.

[COS399]

Originally Posted by brimc

Wow. Been 5 months since last post. Couldn't find the build, way down pg.2
Well it has been a crappy and busy couple of months. We found out of the 4th of July that my father had cancer. We all found out the same day, even him. The next 6 weeks was a battle that I would not wish on my worst enemy. He only came home once for a few rough days the 2nd week of July and passed away on the 10th of August. That was a whir wind blur of a 6 week span.
One of the last things he said to me on one of the last nights when he was still responsive was that he still wanted to see "that truck run".
Needless to say, I haven't hardly worked on the truck. But I did do some cab work in the late spring and now in this last week I worked on the engine. After I get my uploads finished on my super slow internet Ill have some updates.

Brian, Sorry to hear about your loss. Glad to see your making some good progress and that heater is going to come in handy. I have to drive about 16 miles, to use my friends heated shop. One day I will have my own heated shop.

[Dieselwrencher]

So sorry to hear about your father! The engine sounds great. Nice rust repair, and I'm sure the heater will be used a lot there s winter, unfortunately.

[brimc]

Thanks guys.
Ya the engine does sound good. I was starting to get worried because it has sat so long plus I had the injection pump off. Guess I got the pin timing right.
After I get the truck drivable I want to upgrade the fuel system with better lines, filters, free mods etc. For now, just to know it runs, is good enough for me. Thinking about getting rid of the saddle tank as well and go with the rear burban style. Seams to be the popular way to go. I have been keeping an eye out in the classifieds etc for a 88 to 91 suburban for a parts wagon.

[Dieselwrencher]

You need to find someone near you with the timing kit and add some timing. That is a well worth mod on these. Around 15 is great for a DD/tow rig with minimal mods.

[brimc]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

You need to find someone near you with the timing kit and add some timing. That is a well worth mod on these. Around 15 is great for a DD/tow rig with minimal mods.

I have done a fair bit of homework on this and yes timing will need to be done. I was looking at kits on-line when I was getting ready to install the pump but they are pricey. Not something that would be used very much but would make a very nice addition to the tool box collection for sure. I plan on doing all the adjustments and mods on the p7100 after I get it drivable. Then I can have a comparison for turning etc.
Your not that far from southern Ontario are you?

[Dieselwrencher]

You can get them from Snap-on for $189. When I purchased mine I paid $489. Yes, I'm more than bitter about that.

[brimc]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

You can get them from Snap-on for $189. When I purchased mine I paid $489. Yes, I'm more than bitter about that.

Ya I seen some on the internet and remembered thinking that was a lot of money. It would be cheaper than trying to get someone to do it at a diesel shop tho. 489 ya, that is a lot of money but I'm guessing you get to use it more than I would so eventually it would pay for itself.

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

You and I are less than a hr apart . We can split on Ryan's travel costs and he can tweak my pump as well . lol. Truck is looking good . Like your new heater as well. Im just in the process of rigging up a waste oil heater . Go to YouTube some time and type in efficient waste oil heater. The guy in the vid looks like relic from beachcombers Heater is kick ass . He has done lots of homework to get it to this level

If you had the p7100 pump we could just split the cost of the tool kit then figure out how to setup joint custody and which weekends etc

On the waste oil heaters, my buddy does alot of oil changes throughout the year and he stores the waste oil in a regular furnace oil tank and has it piped in to the heater. It puts out good heat. The fuel is free but he had high start up cost if I remember as he bought all new stuff. But if you could piece together some items from around the farm, shop, or kijiji you'd be laughing.