1964 C10 fleet side swb

[SCOTI]

Congrats! Sounds good.

[cwcarpenter98]

Congrats on the start up! That lifter tick you heard was probably just from sitting for a bit allowing the oil to drain some

[Justin71105]

Finally got the 2 codes i was getting taken care of.

P1125 - junkyard tac module took care of that one.

P0324 - one of the pins on the cam sensor plug was not crimped well at all. Re-crinped and cleared that code.

P0650- psi said this one should clear when I hook up mil wire to cel on gauges cluster when I jnstall it.

Starts just fine now, and I also believe lifter tick was just from aitting and lifters needed to pump up running awhile.

Steering column and gauges are next big purchases. Then on to re-installing all my body parts and getting seats installed and gas pedal mounted.

Then need glass, bleed brakes and alignment and should be able move it around. Need all door stuff installed, wood to out in bed and gas filler hose/access bought and installed.

Still a good list to go but making progress....and finally have my transmission rebuilt and set up a linkage.

[Justin71105]

Got my dbw pedal finally put in, was a lot of cutting, bending, grafting/welding. But I got it functional with full pedal travel. Used a truck pedal and had to cut the arm off and use some from another pedal to drop the arm down about 3" to get it in a comfortable position with the bracket I used to attach to the firewall.

Ordered my Dakota Digital gauges and an Ididit column today.

Going tomorrow to try and pull a jump seat from the junkyard and get the seats mounted, drill the holes and reinforce the floor where they mount.

[Justin71105]

Seats installed and then removed to wait for carpet and me to reinforce the floor where I drilled the holes. As well as clean up the wiring and install my sound deadening matt to firewall, behind seats and maybe roof.

They sit really well, just about like my 98 Silverado did. Can recline seat just enough and the mock up column I got looks to be the right distance from me so the 30" ididit column I ordered ahould be perfect

[Justin71105]

Finally some an update...

Ididit column came in, have primered it today and now waiting the 4 hrs to sand and check to see if its ready to paint. Just wanting some paint on it so it doesnt rust, should have gotten it black from ididit but wasnt thinking about stainless rusting.....should have researched.

Either way it will be nice functiknally and thats what I was wanting most of all. Got the call the day I picked it up and gauge's are supposed to ship out to the shop I ordered them from this week or early next week.

Still alot to do before its done but not much more for it to move, trans and linkage is all I need now for that.

The rest is assembling everything, doors/glass/interior etc. Got the hood patched up a little...still got some good dents, truck wont look like much but hopefully will be dependable for daily driving.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Finally some an update...

Ididit column came in, have primered it today and now waiting the 4 hrs to sand and check to see if its ready to paint. Just wanting some paint on it so it doesnt rust, should have gotten it black from ididit but wasnt thinking about stainless rusting.....should have researched.

Either way it will be nice functiknally and thats what I was wanting most of all. Got the call the day I picked it up and gauge's are supposed to ship out to the shop I ordered them from this week or early next week.

Still alot to do before its done but not much more for it to move, trans and linkage is all I need now for that.

The rest is assembling everything, doors/glass/interior etc. Got the hood patched up a little...still got some good dents, truck wont look like much but hopefully will be dependable for daily driving.

What grade of stainless is it?

[Justin71105]

Website doesnt say:

https://www.ididitinc.com/i-25048224...tegory:1310145

[SCOTI]

Seems messed up to get a stainless steel column & have rust issues if it's a decent grade of stainless. One would hope a company like IDIDIT uses better quality materials given the cost & their reputation of being 'higher quality'.

[MT65]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Seems messed up to get a stainless steel column & have rust issues if it's a decent grade of stainless. One would hope a company like IDIDIT uses better quality materials given the cost & their reputation of being 'higher quality'.

For sure on that, have used several stainless columns from Flaming river, no issues…..the top cover can be made to look like the lower section with the mill finish…lathe, scotchbrite and some light oil….

[Justin71105]

Paper work says to not leave it bare, I did finish the paint today. Came out about how I wanted it, one run and a small amount of orange peel bit very happy.

Ididit website says if you want the bare look to purchase the brushed aluminum...but it is quite a bit more expensive. And yes at almost $900 it shouldnt need any paint at all and not rust.

Will let it cure another couple days before I try to install it. Wish the black column wasnt $300+ more than the paintable one and I would have went that route.

[Justin71105]

Found a trailer light I am going to use as my back up lights. Driver side bedside had hole already, need to drill passenger side. These lights look really good imo, a little retro.

Going to need to strip and try a different paint on column, or maybe I didnt let it cure long enought. Messed up the area where it mounts to underside of dash, going to strip and try a better primer/paint.

Ordered a borgeson collapsible intermediate steering shaft and U joints to xonnect column to gear box. Going to look into the lokar 4l60e linkage kit next. Then can move on to finishing up wiring completely.

[Justin71105]

Paint on column did not fully cure...

Stripped and primered/painted column again. Believe I know where I messed up at, did not follow the instructions on the paint well enough. Re-apply time was after 1 hr. or 48 hrs. after first application. I was applying coats on and off during that day about 3 hrs after first coat.

This time around I applied one coat and will sand and apply my second/third coats after a full 72 hrs of dry time and within the 1 hr window. Then I will let cure another full 5-7 days before I install it.

I have a collapsible intermediate shaft and the U joints coming along with the Lokar ACA-1800 shift linkage that ididit recommended. Hopefully I can get all this put in once the column paint is finished.

Then I either want to have front/rear glass installed (most likely) or drop truck of for transmission rebuild....bu that will probably be after glass. Once glass/transmission are done I can get carpet/seats/doors installed, brakes bled again and it should be just about ready for a road test.

I am ready to get this truck on the road, get all the kinks worked out to drive it daily and then start working on the comforts I will still want like A/C, Cruise, stereo....etc

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Website doesnt say:

https://www.ididitinc.com/i-25048224...tegory:1310145

Sucks you had issues with the paint. Truck is coming along nicely.

Just FYI, the link you shared is NOT a Stainless Steel column, but a PAINTABLE Steel column. I don't even see a stainless steel column on their website...

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Sucks you had issues with the paint. Truck is coming along nicely.

Just FYI, the link you shared is NOT a Stainless Steel column, but a PAINTABLE Steel column. I don't even see a stainless steel column on their website...

I see, everyone I had talked to about the ididit at work was telling me it was paint-able stainless. What I get for not doing some more research myself, but this second time around it came out really well.

I didn't want to splurge another $220 for the painted column at the time, may have went that route if I had read a little more on this one.

Ordered a lower steering mount and will be getting the column in maybe tomorrow if that part comes in.

Need to cut down the collapsible column about 7" and install the Lokar shift linkage.

Then may try to get the oil pressure and water temp wiring installed for my Dakota Digital gauges if I finish the column install up early enough.

A lot of wire tidying from my fuse box is still needed and adding the plugs to my headlight/park light wiring and running those out.

Hoping by the end of August I will be ready to have the transmission replaced and start on assembling everything else to make its maiden drive.

[Justin71105]

Column and intermediate shaft are in, Lokar shift linkage is in but needs some adjustment to be able to go below Drive. Can hit P-R-N-D and then on 3rd I am getting some rubbing. Going to flip the heim joint on opposite side as ot is now and see of it clears it up.

Installed seat to see how it feels, would be nice to be about 2" further away from column but it is ok. I like my arms stretched out a little more when holding the wheel, its very close to how my 98 single cab c1500 felt.

Cannot move column any further into dash without cutting dash up some.

[Justin71105]

Buddy at work gave me a good idea on how to get column further into dash without cutting it.

Going to make a spacer for thr factory mount to drop it down an inch or two. This should allow me to move it into the dash another 3-4" and will take care of the issue I have with my shoft linkage rubbing the firewall going into lower gears.

May need to cut slots in the bracket and jold onto column with a hose clamp since it wont be sandwiched up into the dash though.

Thought about buying a drop mount but have no way to mount brake switch then.

Would just need to trim steering shaft some more.

[Justin71105]

Spaced column down 1/2" and was able to move an extra 2" into dash. Plenty far enough for me now.

Installed fenders and grill, driver fender sit 0.5-1" too high on driver side. Doesnt line up with grill great but im leaving it for now, messed with it a couple hours and it would not line up. Took most of the day to get it lined up this well.

Now to wire headlights and turn signals/ park lights in and set up to have a transmission installed.

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Seller said around 150k miles which I was expecting to be incorrect, and it was vin came back with aution on Tahoe and it had 344k miles. But it was running and listed in copart aution as "Engine Atart Program"

Just found and read your thread - nice work, and a good tip on the Accord Coupe weather strips. Knew about the Civic one but, like you avoided them due to the colour. Just need to find a set and get them shipped over.

344K Miles? Sounds as if the ring gaps will be perfect for a Turbo then....

Best stick a 4l80e in it now and make use of the Pozi!

One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.

How far away are you from the maiden voyage?

P.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Just found and read your thread - nice work, and a good tip on the Accord Coupe weather strips. Knew about the Civic one but, like you avoided them due to the colour. Just need to find a set and get them shipped over.

344K Miles? Sounds as if the ring gaps will be perfect for a Turbo then....

Best stick a 4l80e in it now and make use of the Pozi!

One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.

How far away are you from the maiden voyage?

P.

If prop valve is an issue will move it up onto master cylinder like alot of tese trucks are done. Just have to run new brake lines in that case, can make them look better if I do that.

The 73 I pulled it off of had it mounted in this same location and position, thats why I chose it.

4L80 was much to expensive to think about, a core is around 1k here, for the price of corr/rebuild I could buy a gearstar trans.

The 4L60 will be built enough to handle any extra power I out on it which I dont plan to do for a long time. Never had an issue out of a 4L60e in any truck Ive owned even with upwards of 300k miles, only time I seen someone have an issue was when putting more power on them or rrally dogging their trucks.

Will have trans built for more than stock hp/tq just to be safe. I am mostly wanting reliable driveability in an old truck, so stock power in this light of a truck will likely be plenty for me.



Hopefully by the end of the year I will be driving it, going to need glass before transmission I think, dont want a cab full of water while sitting at transmission shop. As soon as a transmission is put in I can move it around the yard though.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

....One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.....

P.

Originally Posted by Justin71105

If prop valve is an issue will move it up onto master cylinder like alot of tese trucks are done. Just have to run new brake lines in that case, can make them look better if I do that.

The 73 I pulled it off of had it mounted in this same location and position, thats why I chose it.

4L80 was much to expensive to think about, a core is around 1k here, for the price of corr/rebuild I could buy a gearstar trans.

The 4L60 will be built enough to handle any extra power I out on it which I dont plan to do for a long time. Never had an issue out of a 4L60e in any truck Ive owned even with upwards of 300k miles, only time I seen someone have an issue was when putting more power on them or rrally dogging their trucks.

Will have trans built for more than stock hp/tq just to be safe. I am mostly wanting reliable driveability in an old truck, so stock power in this light of a truck will likely be plenty for me.



Hopefully by the end of the year I will be driving it, going to need glass before transmission I think, dont want a cab full of water while sitting at transmission shop. As soon as a transmission is put in I can move it around the yard though.

The prop valve doesn't know what position it's in & works either way.
On some vehicles they're mounted fore/aft; others might have them left to right. They're mounted based on the packaging of the various components & placed where they'll fit.

[Justin71105]

Got my front turn/park lights wired up today and tested everything with column wire connector plugged in and headlight switch.

Have to do some troubleshooting on the turn signals, I get park lights all the way around, brake lights work, hazards work but turn signals do not. It actually kills the rear lights completely.

Going to check my wiring again and maybe try another flasher relay if that checks out.

Wiring may be fine since brake lights work and hazards flash on all 4 corners, going to make sure that it is flashing the bright filaments in rear, fronts I made sure to wire bright filament for turn signals... Can't remember on rear been awhile since I wired them, went by color instead of checking which wire was actually for the brighter filament.


So park lights are working in front and rear, brake lights work, hazards work. I have headlight switch plugged in and column, do not have the foot switch in yet since I do not have headlights wired in. Will also be checking how well I am grounded to the frame, I don't remember adding a ground strap to the bed yet.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Got my front turn/park lights wired up today and tested everything with column wire connector plugged in and headlight switch.

Have to do some troubleshooting on the turn signals, I get park lights all the way around, brake lights work, hazards work but turn signals do not. It actually kills the rear lights completely.

Going to check my wiring again and maybe try another flasher relay if that checks out.

Wiring may be fine since brake lights work and hazards flash on all 4 corners, going to make sure that it is flashing the bright filaments in rear, fronts I made sure to wire bright filament for turn signals... Can't remember on rear been awhile since I wired them, went by color instead of checking which wire was actually for the brighter filament.


So park lights are working in front and rear, brake lights work, hazards work. I have headlight switch plugged in and column, do not have the foot switch in yet since I do not have headlights wired in. Will also be checking how well I am grounded to the frame, I don't remember adding a ground strap to the bed yet.

You'll need to get all your grounds in place & then check functionality @ each location.

[Justin71105]

There were 3 problems, turn signal relay was not working, needed a better ground on LH bed light housing and the portion that holds the bulb wasnt allowing bulb to spin into position fully.

Changed flasher relay for a heavy duty one and I got signals in front working but not rear. Had previously swapped hazard relay into turn signal spot but I guess I got 2 hazard relays. They both work on hazards but neither work on turn signal, the HD one worked right away.


Cleaned up grounds on bed and LH signal was working but RH was dim both for park and signal. Pulled lenses off and found that the LH was lighting the park filament for park/brake/turn...

Messed around with it and found the bulb was not spinning enough and the dim filament teminal was touching both wires in harness. Finally got it cleaned up and working right, so now I have all lights working. Just waiting on the rings that hold the headlights in place to put them in.

Going to order the relay harness as well for front lights when I get closer to outting it on the road.

[TxCajun]

Those trailer light back-up lights that you found (post #112) are a great idea.

Looks like O'Reilly Auto has those locally for about $12 for a pair.

My truck does not have back-up lights, so I'm going to check those out as an alternative to the reproduction originals that are around $100 for a pair.

Thanks!