my 63 upgrade

[1strong63]

just learn a bad news today, my friend that is using the warehouse didn't pay the rent for the last 3 months so the owner is kicking is butt out so i'll have to leave with the truck, for th emoment i have no place to take it.

on the other hand i have a full MSD ignition system with distributor, coil and trigger box, finally when i see all the set up it's a lot of wire to clean in the engine bay and put the coil and the box properly. so i saw this things from D.U.I they can taylor it to your application and it is all in one some of you use this, how good si it compared to MSD?
thanks
séb

[66Submarine]

Flat tappet cam? Probably a "modern" grind from Comp or something? Unfortunately, I'll have to say that's probably one of your cam lobes in the oil pan.

[1strong63]

hi, yes it's a hydraulic flat tappet cam. i bought a full set http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...39-3/overview/.
damn i check every lifter before assembly and remove a valve coil for the break in, how could this happen.

[66Submarine]

Comp Xtreme Energy...yeah. "ENGINEERED TO FINISH FIRST" in the race to the oil pan, it seems like. Those have very aggressive lobe profiles and are known for problems with going flat.

I've personally decided I'm going to stick to "old" grinds ("white box" generic/OEM type stuff, etc) for all my stuff with flat tappet cams for this reason. IMO the potential extra 5HP or whatever is not even close to worth it (and if that was really a factor you'd be insane not to use a roller cam).

Did you use a break-in additive in the oil?

I also like the gray molybdenum disulfide grease cam lube (like Isky Rev-Lube). The red Comp stuff seems to run/drip off.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by 66Submarine

Comp Xtreme Energy...yeah. "ENGINEERED TO FINISH FIRST" in the race to the oil pan, it seems like. Those have very aggressive lobe profiles and are known for problems with going flat.

I've personally decided I'm going to stick to "old" grinds ("white box" generic/OEM type stuff, etc) for all my stuff with flat tappet cams for this reason. IMO the potential extra 5HP or whatever is not even close to worth it (and if that was really a factor you'd be insane not to use a roller cam).

Did you use a break-in additive in the oil?

I also like the gray molybdenum disulfide grease cam lube (like Isky Rev-Lube). The red Comp stuff seems to run/drip off.

hi, i didn't choose it for HP or so, i had limited knowledge regarding the cam choice and i more pick this one up cause it was supplied complete (cam, timing gear/chain etc), the rpm range was quite mild, than really looking for perf.
i use a break in additive, prime the engine in oil (oil just came of to the rocker after 30 seconds) check all the lifters by hand when assembly,
i use red assy lube everywhere and on the cam too.

as i have to move the truck soon, i'll first finish all the wiring and stuffs on the truck and then i'll open the engine.

questions are, if i have to change the cam can i keep all the components that came with the comp cam kit? and as it'll be a daily driver as much as i can should i swap to a roller cam or stick to a stock cam?
thanks
séb

[1strong63]

ok i might have found the culprit for the metal in the oil.
i start investigate today, before dismantling the engine, on the distributor gear and the rockers.
distributor gear is ok but when i remove the valve covers, all the rockers are loose except one, i spin the engine buy the crank and the same rocker is always stuck.
i have hydraulic flat tappet cam with roller tip rockers.
cheers

[TJ's Chevy]

Coming into the party waaay late, but I hope you get this problem fixed soon. Break in is soooo critical. I was always told to prime the engine for 5-10 minutes just for sanity reasons.

[1strong63]

for priming i didn't spend so much (5-10) cause the oil came out to the rockers very fast (around 30sec) and i get oil pressure to the gauge at the same time. so i didn't spend more time with the drill.
maybe it was a mistake.
i'll be aware now.

[66Submarine]

Sorry if I came across as being critical of you personally, I was really just making a note for the other people reading regarding the whole XE Comp flat tappet thing. A lot of people will push others to buy these based on the fact that the aggressive lobe profiles are touted as making slightly more power/having better idle manners than comparable "old" style grinds. Like the blurb for that one:

COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 cam and lifter kits are built to take advantage of the latest cam technology to provide maximum performance and low-end torque for your vehicle. Whether your use is off-roading or towing, there is an Xtreme 4x4 for you. By using an aggressive lobe profile, these cams provide better throttle response and more top-end horsepower than equivalent cams from other manufacturers, while delivering increased engine vacuum.

Funny how they neglect to mention the drawbacks of the aggressive lobe profiles in the ad, huh?

A roller cam is great if you have the money for it.

I'm personally going to stick one of these in my budget flat tappet 454 when I put it together:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1301
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1300

No reason you can't reuse your other valvetrain components if the springs are appropriate for the new cam.

ok i might have found the culprit for the metal in the oil.
i start investigate today, before dismantling the engine, on the distributor gear and the rockers.
distributor gear is ok but when i remove the valve covers, all the rockers are loose except one, i spin the engine buy the crank and the same rocker is always stuck.

What exactly do you mean by "stuck"?

[1strong63]

no problem at all i'm begging for advices and points of view that's why i'm here. there is no sense behing on a forum not to share things.

when i say the same rocker is always stuck that's mean that all the rockers are moving a bit excpet one. and that in every engine position (crankshaft)

[bj383ss]

Just stepping in but second Submarines comments on the XE Cams. Had one of these in my Caprice 383. Made tons of power for about 3,000 miles. 8 of the lobes went dead flat and ended up in the pan. I replaced it with a Summit 1103 grind. I know all the bearings are toast in it but I was able to break the cam in and move the car 10 miles where I am storing it. Sounds like this is the case with yours. It did make some serious power though. I estimate around 500hp.

[1strong63]

thanks guys! question is how comp cam could be so wrong with this product?
i'll start open the engine this week to have the bottom line.

[1strong63]

a bit of work before leaving the warehouse. i've bought a used starter. it is a summit mini starter based on a hitachi model i don't have the wiring instructions.

when you ground the starter and put a + on any of the 3 terminal the starter is spinning.
then we have what's on the truck

the small block starter had 3 terminals. the big black cable was with the + from the battery in the middle terminal. the violet was on a S terminal going to the engine harness connector on the firewall. and the 2 together wires was on a R terminal with the green wire connected to the + of the coil. i guess the green wire to the coil was to give full voltage to the coil while cranking to better start.
now do you think that:
-i connect the + battery and the black chevrolet on the right terminal on the summit starter.
-remove the red wire on the summit and connect the violet on the upper terminal of the summit.
it'll work without burning anything?
as i don't have the point distributor the former double wire connected to the R terminal is not to be use anymore right?
thanks

[1strong63]

i finish my crossmember to. it's a 2x2 square and i was able to reuse some holes in the frame from the parking brake crossmember. i use 10.9 hardware to hold it.

to the frame


i was lucky enought that the whole driveline is pointing at 5° with the engine pointing at 3° i feel ok to get only 2° of difference between the tranny yoke and the axle pinion or shoul i care?

[1strong63]

get back to the steering.
i cannot set it properly and i don't know why.
the tube is in its lower position so it can't go deeper in the truck if i want to keep the screws to hold it.

the steering shaft is well placed on the steering box

this jacket (with the indicator lever) is correctly placed on the tube cause you have some groove and you have to 1/4 turn it to hold it in place.

and look at my steering wheel, it's bolted to the max and i have that clearance. the horn is not hitting the contact plate and the indicator cancel plate didn't tough the rest either?!?!