beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E - Page 5 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Hart_Rod** · 05-21-2006, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shifty

hey wootdog, will that work with "red" coolant?

Why can't you use the factory radiator?

R

Sgt.Booya · 05-21-2006, 11:11 PM

Great thread guys. Sounds like the work involved in this conversion is mind boggling, but I'm sure it's worth it. A reliable engine with 300hp and decent fuel consumption too!!

I've driven the LT1/4L60E police package for many years (when they still made them) and they kick some serious a$$!! They take a licking and keep on tickin' too.

Keep at it guys, don't lose the faith. Please update on your progress. I'll be checking this post often.

Wootdog · 05-22-2006, 07:41 AM

Yes it will work with red coolant. I have been running that setup for over a year. I do have a electric fan setup with a electrical thermostat for the fan. Wootdog

Wootdog · 05-22-2006, 07:48 AM

The reason I didnt use the factory C-10 radiator was because of radiator inlet and outlet sizes. You have to Jerry rig the hoses. There is also a steam pipe setup for the back of the heads. If you use the camaro setup, the hoses fit correctly and one of them actually has another smaller hose coming off of it for the connection to the rear of the engine. Wootdog.

jay-dawg · 05-22-2006, 12:30 PM

damn...wootdog beat me to it. the c10 radiator is IIRC 1 1/2" while the LT1 has the 1 1/4" or 1" inlet/outlet.

wootdog...did you use the 3 row brackets?

pdr510 · 06-11-2006, 11:58 AM

Here is a website where you can get the ac relocation brackets for the lt1's. I used this setup with out notching the frame. www.bowersrodshop.com/info_pulley.htm

Kenneth_CS87 · 07-31-2006, 09:23 PM

Are you sending out your harness to get done?

pdr510 · 08-01-2006, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenneth_CS87

Are you sending out your harness to get done?

I sent my harness about a 1 1/2 years ago. It works great!

BowTieOgre · 08-01-2006, 05:15 PM

Where did you send your harness pdr?

Shifty, I could use the part #s for that fuel reg and filter if you still have them handy. Also, im going with a poly tank and external pump for $$$ reasons...any suggestions?

pdr510 · 08-01-2006, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BowTieOgre

Where did you send your harness pdr?

Shifty, I could use the part #s for that fuel reg and filter if you still have them handy. Also, im going with a poly tank and external pump for $$$ reasons...any suggestions?

I sent my harness to Lt1 wiring (www.lt1350.com)

BowTieOgre · 02-23-2007, 01:26 AM

What is everyone using for headers with the LT1 swap?

Kenneth_CS87 · 02-23-2007, 02:21 AM

Im running andersons cc11dp headers.

loweredd · 02-23-2007, 11:02 AM

I used Hedman shorties for our trucks. Worked great!

BowTieOgre · 02-23-2007, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loweredd

I used Hedman shorties for our trucks. Worked great!

Right on, any idea on a model number? I will be looking in the meantime. Thx!

tb8125 · 02-27-2007, 05:55 PM

I just bought my lt1.

BowTieOgre · 03-09-2007, 11:07 AM

Ok, im running out of funds for the LT1 project so I am going low cost on the harness and PCM work. I just dropped $285 with Jeff from PCMAmerica. Ive heard mixed reviews but he seems like a good fella so im going to give him a try and let you guys know how it works out.

If I can scrape together the funds my next purchase is going to be headers. My only problem is all the ones I see in the catalogs are for the F or Y bodies and only 2 or 3 are listed for Impala/Caprice which is what I have. I would think that any D-port headers would suffice but im having problems find them for under $350. There is no way I can afford ceramic coated versions so im going plain Jane painted headers.

Whats the difference between long/mid/short tube headers? Is one better than the others?

NPilot1975 · 03-09-2007, 01:01 PM

Long tube are the best for performance and short are the best for fit most of the time. You can use any small block headers, you will just have to weld in bungs for the O2 sensors.

Cochise · 03-09-2007, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtwheels

This is great info...I just bought my 72 C-10 over the weekend and am excited to get it started. I checked out your website minibike and the pics are great. Fortunatley, My father-in-Law has a police edition caprice with the LT1. I can basically have it. I have an I6 in it right now that has been overhauled. It has triple carbs, I thought that was cool, hadn't seen them before. The 6 will make it move...it's amazing. I can't wait to get the LT1 in though. I can't wait to get started with my new project. Any initial words of wisdom from anyone as I get started?
Thanks!

Only one word of wisdom from me. It is always best whendoing a project like that to take before and after pictures, and any other info you have and send it to JoeFrus@americanthunderbike.org May not make the job go well, but it could help me when I do the swap myself.

Cochise · 03-09-2007, 05:22 PM

I just realized this thread has been going on since 2003.

Kenneth_CS87 · 03-12-2007, 04:10 AM

How did most of your guys resolved the AC Hitting the frame problem?

BowTieOgre · 03-12-2007, 12:25 PM

Well I think there are 3 options...relocate the comp with the corvette setup, delete the A/C and run the delete pulley OR notch the frame for the belt. Since I live in the south and cant afford the vette setup im going to be notching.

Kenneth_CS87 · 03-12-2007, 01:35 PM

When running the AC delete does the frame still has too be nontch? How much has to be notch? any body has pics?

BowTieOgre · 03-12-2007, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenneth_CS87

When running the AC delete does the frame still has too be nontch? How much has to be notch? any body has pics?

Yeah it still has to be notched. HERE are a few pics of Jay-dawg's situation.

BowTieOgre · 05-17-2007, 11:18 AM

Well I may have found another option for the A/C problem. The following post came from the LT1tech forums from about 3 years ago.

I just did this on my 69 Camaro using Z-28 LT-1 from a 95. Here is what I did. If you locate an approximate 94-96 Caprice with a TBI V-8 it will have a large(almost as big as the bracket for your LT1) "driver side" bracket that holds the alternator and power steering pump. The pump is like the old pumps with reservior part of it. Remove the pump and chunck it, it's empty space on this bracket will not be used for a pump but instead a small pulley with modified bracket as a tensioner for serpentine belt. The alternator is the exact same size as used in all LT1 applications, so your alternator will bolt right in. The neat thing about this is that the Crank pulley (which you also need to acquire) is bolted on to the harmonic dampner. It will line up perfectly when you bolt it to your other pulley/dampner on your Z-28 LT1. You must modify the Big Bracket slightly for clearance of Optispark wires on the bottom and tilt it out slightly from it's original position for just enough space for coil and clearance of valve cover.(if you want to re-locate coil which I did not, you can use original mounting holes and it will work perfect because it came off of a small block V-8, all same holes) Just drill new holes if you want to leave coil close to origninal spot, some movement and modification will be necessary.

Now the other side, just put an AC delete pulley into your original AC position. Now you will bolt your AC compressor into your old alternator position (above the valve cover). You can bolt one of the mounting holes right into one of the holes already in the bracket, should line up perfect or very close with little mod required. You will need to get some steel plating (1/4 or 3/16) in and make a bracket that will bolt onto the other compressor hole and to the other alternator hole. Just use washers for spacing back and forth to line up pulleys.

When your finished you will have a 2 belt system. The original belt will be on the pass side running very close to the front of the block as always. The driver side serpentine belt will be on the outside pulley running alternator only.

loweredd · 03-12-2007, 04:25 PM

I didnt have a problem cause I was lucky enough to score an engine out of a Vette already.

05-21-2006, 11:11 PM	#2
Sgt.Booya Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 75	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Great thread guys. Sounds like the work involved in this conversion is mind boggling, but I'm sure it's worth it. A reliable engine with 300hp and decent fuel consumption too!! I've driven the LT1/4L60E police package for many years (when they still made them) and they kick some serious a$$!! They take a licking and keep on tickin' too. Keep at it guys, don't lose the faith. Please update on your progress. I'll be checking this post often. __________________ If you keep and open mind you never know what might drop in. 1970 Chev C10 SWB, "250 turbo thrift"

05-22-2006, 07:41 AM	#3
Wootdog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA Posts: 1,676	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Yes it will work with red coolant. I have been running that setup for over a year. I do have a electric fan setup with a electrical thermostat for the fan. Wootdog __________________ 1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT

05-22-2006, 07:48 AM	#4
Wootdog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA Posts: 1,676	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E The reason I didnt use the factory C-10 radiator was because of radiator inlet and outlet sizes. You have to Jerry rig the hoses. There is also a steam pipe setup for the back of the heads. If you use the camaro setup, the hoses fit correctly and one of them actually has another smaller hose coming off of it for the connection to the rear of the engine. Wootdog. __________________ 1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT

05-22-2006, 12:30 PM	#5
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E damn...wootdog beat me to it. the c10 radiator is IIRC 1 1/2" while the LT1 has the 1 1/4" or 1" inlet/outlet. wootdog...did you use the 3 row brackets? __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI Last edited by jay-dawg; 05-22-2006 at 01:06 PM.

06-11-2006, 11:58 AM	#6
pdr510 Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: LA Posts: 158	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Here is a website where you can get the ac relocation brackets for the lt1's. I used this setup with out notching the frame. www.bowersrodshop.com/info_pulley.htm

07-31-2006, 09:23 PM	#7
Kenneth_CS87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Stockton Posts: 114	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Are you sending out your harness to get done?

08-01-2006, 05:15 PM	#9
BowTieOgre Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 1,461	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Where did you send your harness pdr? Shifty, I could use the part #s for that fuel reg and filter if you still have them handy. Also, im going with a poly tank and external pump for $$$ reasons...any suggestions? __________________ 1986 C10 - LWB, 305/700r4, posi, vortec heads

02-23-2007, 01:26 AM	#11
BowTieOgre Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 1,461	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E What is everyone using for headers with the LT1 swap? __________________ 1986 C10 - LWB, 305/700r4, posi, vortec heads

02-23-2007, 02:21 AM	#12
Kenneth_CS87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Stockton Posts: 114	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Im running andersons cc11dp headers.

02-23-2007, 11:02 AM	#13
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E I used Hedman shorties for our trucks. Worked great!

02-27-2007, 05:55 PM	#15
tb8125 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: in the land of the free Posts: 29	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E I just bought my lt1.

03-09-2007, 11:07 AM	#16
BowTieOgre Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 1,461	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Ok, im running out of funds for the LT1 project so I am going low cost on the harness and PCM work. I just dropped $285 with Jeff from PCMAmerica. Ive heard mixed reviews but he seems like a good fella so im going to give him a try and let you guys know how it works out. If I can scrape together the funds my next purchase is going to be headers. My only problem is all the ones I see in the catalogs are for the F or Y bodies and only 2 or 3 are listed for Impala/Caprice which is what I have. I would think that any D-port headers would suffice but im having problems find them for under $350. There is no way I can afford ceramic coated versions so im going plain Jane painted headers. Whats the difference between long/mid/short tube headers? Is one better than the others? __________________ 1986 C10 - LWB, 305/700r4, posi, vortec heads

03-09-2007, 01:01 PM	#17
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Long tube are the best for performance and short are the best for fit most of the time. You can use any small block headers, you will just have to weld in bungs for the O2 sensors. __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

03-09-2007, 05:22 PM	#19
Cochise Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rogers, AR Posts: 298	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E I just realized this thread has been going on since 2003.

03-12-2007, 04:10 AM	#20
Kenneth_CS87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Stockton Posts: 114	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E How did most of your guys resolved the AC Hitting the frame problem?



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03-12-2007, 12:25 PM	#21
BowTieOgre Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 1,461	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Well I think there are 3 options...relocate the comp with the corvette setup, delete the A/C and run the delete pulley OR notch the frame for the belt. Since I live in the south and cant afford the vette setup im going to be notching. __________________ 1986 C10 - LWB, 305/700r4, posi, vortec heads

03-12-2007, 01:35 PM	#22
Kenneth_CS87 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Stockton Posts: 114	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E When running the AC delete does the frame still has too be nontch? How much has to be notch? any body has pics?

05-17-2007, 11:18 AM	#24
BowTieOgre Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 1,461	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E Well I may have found another option for the A/C problem. The following post came from the LT1tech forums from about 3 years ago. I just did this on my 69 Camaro using Z-28 LT-1 from a 95. Here is what I did. If you locate an approximate 94-96 Caprice with a TBI V-8 it will have a large(almost as big as the bracket for your LT1) "driver side" bracket that holds the alternator and power steering pump. The pump is like the old pumps with reservior part of it. Remove the pump and chunck it, it's empty space on this bracket will not be used for a pump but instead a small pulley with modified bracket as a tensioner for serpentine belt. The alternator is the exact same size as used in all LT1 applications, so your alternator will bolt right in. The neat thing about this is that the Crank pulley (which you also need to acquire) is bolted on to the harmonic dampner. It will line up perfectly when you bolt it to your other pulley/dampner on your Z-28 LT1. You must modify the Big Bracket slightly for clearance of Optispark wires on the bottom and tilt it out slightly from it's original position for just enough space for coil and clearance of valve cover.(if you want to re-locate coil which I did not, you can use original mounting holes and it will work perfect because it came off of a small block V-8, all same holes) Just drill new holes if you want to leave coil close to origninal spot, some movement and modification will be necessary. Now the other side, just put an AC delete pulley into your original AC position. Now you will bolt your AC compressor into your old alternator position (above the valve cover). You can bolt one of the mounting holes right into one of the holes already in the bracket, should line up perfect or very close with little mod required. You will need to get some steel plating (1/4 or 3/16) in and make a bracket that will bolt onto the other compressor hole and to the other alternator hole. Just use washers for spacing back and forth to line up pulleys. When your finished you will have a 2 belt system. The original belt will be on the pass side running very close to the front of the block as always. The driver side serpentine belt will be on the outside pulley running alternator only. __________________ 1986 C10 - LWB, 305/700r4, posi, vortec heads Last edited by BowTieOgre; 05-17-2007 at 11:19 AM.

03-12-2007, 04:25 PM	#25
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	Re: beating this question to death! LT1/4L60E I didnt have a problem cause I was lucky enough to score an engine out of a Vette already.

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