Scott's '51 Build

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Another question - I am doing an LS swap and have a 2006 motor and the DBW gas pedal. I searched around looking for mounting tips on the pedal but so far only found newer years including a nice bracket one of the members sells for 60's or 70's trucks. Anyone have advice on how to mount the pedal in my '51?

Thanks!

Scott, I have to do the same for mine. Hart Rob sells the mounts for a 67 to 72 truck. Since that one won't work for our trucks I am going to build a mount.

Basically, with the seat, steering column and brake assembly in position find a comfortable position for the pedal assembly mocked in place. A third hand device would be really handy...once mocked in place, build a mount to weld to firewall the pedal assembly can bolt to.

The truck assembly is pretty chunky and a Corvette assembly might fit better. Lokar has a very adjustable unit though it is pricey.

Just thinking aloud as I haven't done I yet.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Scott, I have to do the same for mine. Hart Rob sells the mounts for a 67 to 72 truck. Since that one won't work for our trucks I am going to build a mount.

Basically, with the seat, steering column and brake assembly in position find a comfortable position for the pedal assembly mocked in place. A third hand device would be really handy...once mocked in place, build a mount to weld to firewall the pedal assembly can bolt to.

The truck assembly is pretty chunky and a Corvette assembly might fit better. Lokar has a very adjustable unit though it is pricey.

Just thinking aloud as I haven't done I yet.

Thanks Doug - I've been going down the path of trying to mount the truck pedal and was going to do basically what you suggested. I may look around for a Corvette pedal though - that sounds like a good idea. Does the same harness plug in to that pedal as well?

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I just noticed you are from castle rock, I get there once in a while, my wifes best friend lives there with her family.

truck is looking really great!

Thanks! Let me know if you're headed this way. If we're around I'll buy you a beer. And if you happen to know of a decent pass side running board somewhere along the way drag it along with you! I haven't been able to find one that hasn't lost numerous battles with big rocks.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Thanks Doug - I've been going down the path of trying to mount the truck pedal and was going to do basically what you suggested. I may look around for a Corvette pedal though - that sounds like a good idea. Does the same harness plug in to that pedal as well?

From what I recall reading they will physically plug in though the terminal pins are in different locations. Will just need to make sure the harness matches whichever pedal you use.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Cautrell05

Looks good. How do you set front end alignment though? It all looks like it is fixed control arm mounts.

Sorry - it took a few days to go look at it. The top control arm mounts into an eccentric rod that allows you to pull the arm in and out, that same rod slides forward and back which moves the arm forward and back, with the bottom control arm fixed there's pretty good adjustment..

[Scott2]

Got my replacement/longer Flaming River column so I'm working on the steering today. Mocked it up and it works ok. I'm still thinking if I move the support toward the cab a few inches I may get a straighter shot.

Thoughts or words of wisdom?

[reaper71]

What are your angles at?
For a single joint like you have they should not exceed 35 degrees. I try to get them much lower than that just for a smoother feel. I try to stay in the 25 degree range.
Don't get me wrong the setup looks ok, it's just the angles look steep to me.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by reaper71

What are your angles at?
For a single joint like you have they should not exceed 35 degrees. I try to get them much lower than that just for a smoother feel. I try to stay in the 25 degree range.
Don't get me wrong the setup looks ok, it's just the angles look steep to me.

I'll measure the angles this morning. It all seems to work smoothly but they do look a little steep. I moved it all around and couldn't get a better angle - yet. That's why I posted it - this is my first time installing the steering and want to be sure I'm thinking about it right. I think I can also possibly look cutting a new hole for the column to go thru down a little lower?

Thanks!

[reaper71]

Yes Sir!
That's what this site is for! I have been building Car's/Trucks for alot of years now (do it for a living) and steering and brakes are king of the hill for getting it right!
With these trucks the steering columns were a bit oddly placed from factory and you could always move it if needed. to make it better for you sitting in the seat

Mark.

[reaper71]

Also you have to remember (this will be under a load) when your driving so when you check for smoothness right now it's probably off the floor so it will be really smooth.

[Scott2]

With help from Reaper and 74project I think I figured this steering linkage out! I moved the column down and to the left a couple of inches from the original hole. This actually squared up the column to the floor as well. It may have been out of square originally or got that way due to me centering the column between the gauges. This move gave me enough room to clear the motor, make the steering linkage work far better and also got more clearance from the brake pedal. I now have a bigass messy hole to fix in the floor, but that's just sheetmetal. You guys were a great help - thank you!!

[solidaxel]

As straight as you have the column now, do you even need the U joint on the end of the column

[reaper71]

Much Better!!
For the column mount what we normally do is take a piece of exhaust tubing that slides over the column and weld a flat washer to the end and drill the hole out to fit the steering shaft of the column. Then you set the depth of the column as needed and weld the tube to your floor. (this will act as a stop) so what you end up with is a tube protruding from the fire wall and your column slides into this tube. To lock it into place you drill a hole and weld a nut to the very top of the tube (inside vehicle) and put a 1/4 20 bolt in the nut to lock it down.

The pic here shows what it would look like installed (hope I explained it good enough) This way you have a really clean look to the firewall and a solid mount.

Mark.

[reaper71]

I found a pic of the inside as well. These are shots from my personal Build "orangepeel"

Mark.

[74project]

Wow that looks much better.. nicely done my friend!!!

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

As straight as you have the column now, do you even need the U joint on the end of the column

That's a great question! I'll have to take a closer look - I probably don't need it.

Thanks!

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by reaper71

I found a pic of the inside as well. These are shots from my personal Build "orangepeel"

Mark.

Mark,

That's really clean and looks great! Thanks for the pics too.

[reaper71]

Anytime.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

As straight as you have the column now, do you even need the U joint on the end of the column

Moving the steering column was a good solution Scott.

If you do reconfigure your connections at the column, please keep the information in this video from ididit in mind. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8M1aR4...ature=youtu.be

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Moving the steering column was a good solution Scott.

If you do reconfigure your connections at the column, please keep the information in this video from ididit in mind. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8M1aR4...ature=youtu.be

This site is great - I learn something new everyday! Thank you!

[74project]

Scott. No problems at all with overheating. Last summer driving around in 115 my champion radiator and entropy fan worked great. I did not shroud it. I did make sure gaps were covered around the frame .. grill .. and so forth to get max air flow through the radiator and not around. I drive more on the freeway also.... I do suggest getting their stand alone harness to set a timer thats a soon purchase for me. I will get you some pics of the fan. I'm installing some Altman bear claws now..... between buying those and unable to save my door hinges I got kicked in the nuts for almost 700. Damn... just when you think there's nothing else to buy.

[Scott2]

Going to catch up on some recent work now. I trailered the truck down to Colorado Springs for an exhaust system. I found a good local shop (Front Range) who was willing to deal with a non-running truck and let me watch and comment. He did a nice job and left the exhaust unleaded so we pulled it all apart and will take it back for final welding after powder coat and final assembly. I went with a dual 2-1/2' aluminized system, crossover to be added when he welds it up, and twin pipes out to the rear bumper.

Side note - we barely got it on and off the UHaul trailer - truck is low enough the running board brackets got hung up. We had to stack wood under the tires which of course made it harder to push.

[Scott2]

Final shot of the tailpipes. I'll probably use chrome turndowns and yes I know they are not level because they are not welded and are just hanging there.

One more note - as you can see from the first set of pics, the exhaust was a challenge to get around the frame mounted brake booster. In addition, I have to say that the brake pedal for the booster is kind of a piece of ****. Somehow it always rubs against the hole in the floor, it hits the head on the motor at extension, and is fatally interfering with the auto shift linkage (column shifter) so it's one or the other. Add in the anticipated future aggravation of dealing with the master cylinder reservoir under the floor (yes I know I can use a remote reservoir but if I have to get to the M/C it'll be a major pain), plus some info from a local guy who builds a lot of these trucks and advised that the 7" booster is definitely not optimum for effective stopping, and I punted and ordered a CPP 8" firewall brake booster and pedal. I feel better already!

[Scott2]

One more - the exhaust system in it's current state.

[Scott2]

OK - done with the mock up - I hope - so I blew it all apart this past weekend. Way back in the beginning someone asked why I didn't send the new TCI frame straight to powder coat when I got it. I know the answer now!

I had to weld in the gas tank mounts, drill holes for the fuel line clamps, weld in a bracket for the Steering linkage, weld in threaded bungs for the battery drop down box, and "clearance" the pass side frame rail for the exhaust.

Dropped it all off at the sandblaster/powdercoater a few days ago and should get it back early next week.