Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4

[y5mgisi]

Hmm I would try eBay for the u bolts. Or, if you call ord, they will sell you just the rear u bolts.

[NastyBuzzard]

Yeah I have been searching ebay and the net.. Seems like longer U bolts that are 5/8" diameter and 3.375 wide are just really expensive. Cheapest set I have found was like $70 with shipping. For that price I should just buy ORD's U bolt flip kit, which is like $87 plus shipping so probably $100. I haven't decided.

I did find a cheap set for like $30 but turned out they were just grade 5 and I don't trust that. Especially when it isn't supposed to be torqued over 110#.

Still no luck finding clutch/brake pedals for what I need and no luck on a reasonably priced transfer case either.

[MTCK]

I had to look long and hard for the hydro clutch pedal setup. Eventually bought one from a guy advertising on pirate. All the junk yards I looked at were cleaned out and it ended up costing me close to $300 for the pedals, mater, slave, line and reservoir. Good luck. Oh and I can have custom u bolts made locally, so maybe check that option in your area.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by MTCK

I had to look long and hard for the hydro clutch pedal setup. Eventually bought one from a guy advertising on pirate. All the junk yards I looked at were cleaned out and it ended up costing me close to $300 for the pedals, mater, slave, line and reservoir. Good luck. Oh and I can have custom u bolts made locally, so maybe check that option in your area.

Unfortunately, I live in a very rural town out in the country. The town I commute to for work is larger but really doesn't have jack in it as far as getting stuff like that done but I do have some calls to make.

Yeah that price sounds about right.. I have seen pedal assemblies for $300 just for the pedals at least you got the other parts. I have a few places to go look but I don't have high hopes.

[slotard]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

My local Napa will bend whatever U bolts a guy could need. I'm not sure if it is just my store, but have you checked locally for the bolts?

It's your store. I asked the one near me a week or two ago about U bolts and they suggested some other places.

[NastyBuzzard]

Yeah my napa acted like they didn't even understand the question.

[NastyBuzzard]

I got all of the rear hangers off. Plus the little hanger support for the rear which I noticed I am missing for my 4x4 hangers. May have found one though so that's not too big of a deal.



I started to mount the rear last night but was kind of hesitant. I am going to pull my other 4x4 up to the shop to take measurements. I want to place these in the correct position the first time.

[NastyBuzzard]

Teaser

[COS399]

Looking good. How much did you cut out of your frame?

[NastyBuzzard]

To make it a short bed? If so, I've cut out 14" behind cab but I still have a few to cut off at the rear of the frame just haven't done it yet.

[COS399]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

To make it a short bed? If so, I've cut out 14" behind cab but I still have a few to cut off at the rear of the frame just haven't done it yet.

Yes, to make it a short bed. Thanks for the information. Keep it up.

[y5mgisi]

Nice work!

[NorCalAnthony]

Nice work! I've always wanted a short bed crew cab square and can't wait to see how yours turns out

[NastyBuzzard]

Thanks!! I'm liking it more and more that is for sure!

Just wish I could get my dang engine!

[NastyBuzzard]

I will start off by saying this was very scary to me and I hope I did it right! What I did was measure exactly the same as the 4x4 donor frame then drop it down 1". I hope this will work out. For some reason drilling this 2" hole with my hole saw and little dewalt drill took 45 min and lots of breaks. The other side took like 15 but I used my giant milwuakee drill.



This was a good feeling. I am worried about the rear shackle angle. However, not a lot I can do without all the weight on it.



I also finally opened up the 79 rear diff to see what gears it had so I would know what gears my Dana 60 has. Turns out it is 4.10's which is exactly what my 88s stock gears where so no worries about not matching gears anymore.



One thing I could really use some HELP on is the engine crossmember. Most threads I have read people used DIY4x crossmember or something other than oem stuff. I am having problems with fitment so I will need to figure out what to do here.



I wanted to see what it would need to take to get this thing level so I threw some temporary blocks on the back.. I hate blocks and doing this motivates me to buy what I need whether it is 4" springs or the shack flip kit which is way too expensive now a days. I may just make my own.



I feel like once all the weight is on it will sit somewhat level but I tell you, it is a heck of a lot taller than I thought! Which isn't bad or good but still shocking me at this point.

[daddyjeep]

I would think the shackle flip could be built quite easily for about $40 versus almost $200 to buy it.

[NastyBuzzard]

It is ridiculous! I remember when DIY4x was cheap!

My friend has a design for one so I may just get my other friend with plasma cutter to cut it out and weld it together. Temporarily though I have to track down just 2 u bolts 2.5" wide and about 13" long. I am even having a hard time finding that for a reasonable price.

I have to find someway to get the engine crossmember in so that I will feel safe removing the front crossmember that the brake proportioning valve is bolted to so I can replace it with the 4x4 version. Which I heard may not just fit right in either.

[y5mgisi]

I seem to recall that there is a frame height difference between 2wd and 4wd in the engine crossmemeber areas? What is your fitment problem? I remember seeing in one thread that the 4x4 engine mount brackets were too tall to fit in the 2wd frame so a guy just made some kind of 1/4" slots in the brackets so they would slide into/onto the upper frame rail lip. Is that the trouble you are having?

[NastyBuzzard]

Yes the problem is that the 4x4 engine mount brackets that attach to the crossmember seem too tall to fit inside the frame rail like they are supposed to.

The crossmember itself slides in no problem.

I am not understanding what you mean when you say they slotted them to make them fit.

I haven't spent a lot of time trying to make them fit either.

[Dieselwrencher]

On my 76, I used 2wd rear spring/shackle hangers, a DIY4x shackle, and no block to get my rear suspension up. This required cutting the spring perches off the rear axle to reset pinion angle though. It was cheap and works. In the pic, I still have to make or install the lower half support bracket for the hanger.

[y5mgisi]

Like this.

[y5mgisi]

So it's basically like a sliced a slot into the engine mount bracket for the frame rail to slide into.

[NastyBuzzard]

Thanks for that. I understand now.

[NastyBuzzard]

I went out and tinkered for a minute last night.

Here is the engine mount slotted. The 4wd frame is 1/2" taller in the area that the engine cross member mounts. More bad news is where the front cross member that the brake proportioning valve mounts to is like 6" tall from the 4x4 but the 2wd frame rail is only about 5-1/4" tall in the area it should mount so that is going to be interesting as well...



I was installing my new U bolts and found some issues I need to resolve. Always something. I need a shorter stud for one.





Still need to find somewhere I can buy just 2 cheap U bolts that are square, for a 2.5" wide leaf spring and 13" long. These will temporarily mount the blocks until I can build my rear hangers. I need to be able to roll this thing out the shop soon to clean and paint the frame.

[y5mgisi]

Are those from ord?