Daddyjeep Hauler - 85 K30 crew cab short bed

[Chevy_mud_truck]

At Least it was able to get it out

[daddyjeep]

I finished up the notch in the tank tonight. There are a couple questionable spots that have a chance of leaking as well as some rust pitting in a couple spots. These areas will get a coat JB weld just to be sure.

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[68Timber]

Looks great. You are right, that's a much bigger clearance than it appeared to need. Clean work!

[daddyjeep]

I had some scar tissue removed from my eye lid on Friday so I wasn't allowed to spend any time in the shop this weekend. Since the wife had to go to work for an hour or so, I might have snuck down to the shop.

I finished up coating all the weld seams with JB Weld and shot a few coats of rubberized undercoating. I also found out that my stock sending unit fits the Blazer tank nicely.

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[daddyjeep]

I at least got the tank ratchet strapped in place last night in between all the other crap I have to do every night. Who's idea was it to have kids anyway? I'm going to have to have a talk with the wife. I did get one tank strap built out of some 1/8" x 1 1/2" strap and some all thread, but in the pic the ratchet strap is still holding the tank. I am real happy with the tanks mod. I just hope it holds gas.

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[68Timber]

Looks good! What kind of magic did you use to get rid of gas vapors etc so you could cut and weld on it?

[daddyjeep]

No magic. This tank had been sitting in the front seat of a Blazer for years. I just vacuumed out the spider webs and dead mouse and started welding.

[daddyjeep]

I finally got the hitch modified, painted, and installed. I had to relocate the middle bolt tab and drill new holes in the frame for the front bolt. Then I could finally install the tank. I still need to level it and then start plumbing.

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[daddyjeep]

I really wish I had time to strip this truck down to a bare frame. I started plumbing tonight and the General sure liked to hide the bolts that hold the factory hard lines to the frame. The engine bay and frame have a nice heavy coat of oil and sludge that makes a real nice skin conditioner. I drove greasy leaky junk for years and I really don't care to go back there, but since I need this functional soon I'm going to have to suck it up I guess.

[MTCK]

I hear ya. Had to make similar compromises on mine. I tried to really clean up everything I touched, but didn't go looking for side projects. It'll feel good when you're on the road. Maybe blow it apart next winter...

[daddyjeep]

That is definitely the plan. Get through the summer dragging the Jeep around and tear it down properly over the winter.

[tinydb84]

Love the light in the gas tank. Made my day. I'll just pretend I havent done stuff like that a hundred times...

[daddyjeep]

I got the floor sprayed with some self etching primer and covered all the welds with seam sealer. I also got the first coat of filler on all the external seams. Oh how I love sanding.

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[daddyjeep]

I forgot to mention, for those that are referencing the modification of the rocker panel for the rear door i had to make a change. The radius at the front of the rear door had to be modified. You can see in the last pic that I had to make a bunch of relief cuts in the lip for the weatherstripping so I could tighten up the radius. After cutting that area out, reforming it, and welding it back in I was left with about a 1 inch gap to fill. I should have gotten some pics, but did not. In order to ensure that the radius was correct I made a cardboard template of the passenger side.

[daddyjeep]

More sanding tonight and a second coat of filler. did I mention I hate sanding. I have respect for body guys.

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[Woodyboat]

Daddyjeep, I just found your thread thanx to a heads-up from Front Range. I will need to be repairing the rust on my Crew Cab dually as well. Honestly, it looks our two trucks have virtually the same amount of rust in the same exact places. So I REALLY appreciate your contributions to this forum and your sharing this thread with us.

So, I noticed that you decided to use two replacement rocker panels from single cabs instead of just one panel for a crew cab. (Maybe I need to re-read the thread) If you had to do it over again, would you go the same route or get the panel made just for the Crew cab?

[daddyjeep]

Thanks for checking in Woodyboat. If I could have found a complete rocker panel for a crew cab I would have absolutely used that. The problem is that they are not available. The only crew cab specific rocker I could find is a slip on, which does not include the door sills or the part that ties into the fender mount. Someone posted that rear door rockers were once available, but they are hard to find and expensive. I hope this helps in your planning.

[Woodyboat]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

...If I could have found a complete rocker panel for a crew cab I would have absolutely used that...

Yes, I can see that now. The key word is "complete." If you could have found a COMPLETE rocker panel, you would have used it. The rust on my dually extends well beyond what I can see would be covered if I ordered the one shown in the LMC catalog. I really wish those folks could offer some better photos of their replacements parts. This is 2016 now. Do we still have to rely on illustrations like those in a JC Whitney catalog?

Haha, on this forum I need to remind myself that "CC" stands for Crew Cab and NOT Chris Craft. LOL

[Woodyboat]

Ok I'm back. daddyjeep, I went to your Photobucket page and viewed all your photos, even expanding each one and studying it at length. It is amazing how similar our two trucks are and how they both have rusted in exactly the same places in the same ways. I only paid $800 for this truck but even then, I've had that overwhelming feeling that I may have paid too much. But, I feel a lot better now that I can see the progress you're making.

I really think you went the right way with two sets of rockers from a single cab. The curvatures at the ends of each panel are correct using your method. If I were to get the CC panel from LMC, those curves would still have to be fabricated and I just don't want to go there. But doing it your way saves all that work and then transfers the fabbing to middle of each door opening - place a beginner like myself can be successful.

[daddyjeep]

Check post 117. I did have to modify the curve at the front of the rear door openings.

[Woodyboat]

Ok, I see it now. I missed that the first time through. But, we're not building show trucks here and that looks darn good to me. In fact, I'd be very happy if mine turns out that good - which I think it will cause I am willing to keep at it until I get it just right. That's a good solution.

[daddyjeep]

More sanding, more filler, more sanding...good enough. I don't have time for perfection. This truck needs to tow the Jeep in 3 weeks. I also got a couple coats of rubberized undercoating on the drivers side floor and installed a new fuel pump tonight.

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[daddyjeep]

I threw some paint on the rockers and can now call the drivers side done for now. I am really happy with how everything turned out. Even the weld lines for the cab corners completely disappeared after paint.

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I got the doors back on and hooked everything back up. I can get both rear windows to work from the drivers door, but nether front window works. Looks like I have a little trouble shooting to do. Any thoughts on where to start?

Next topic, I dumped some fuel into the carb and the truck started right up. That 454 sounds pretty good with no exhaust. Now for the bad news, the fuel pump isn't moving any fuel. It is a brand new pump. Still more trouble shooting.

[MTCK]

Truck looks great. You really did some nice work. And fast!

[daddyjeep]

Thanks MTCK. I wish it was faster, I need to tow the Jeep to a festival in two and half weeks.