Xmember install progress

[XXL]

Originally Posted by jlaird

captkaos, how do you ship the crossmembers? UPS? $40 seems cheap for such a heavy thing.

It's not as heavy as you might think when it's stripped down to just the bare xmember. IIRC, it was 27# including packing (just wrapped in cardboard and taped like it's going out of style).

[67Fleet]

Knockin' the dust off of this one. I re-read this whole thread and the details of the mods required to make everything work after the re-install are a little hazy other than a few steering mods, and the drilling of new bolt holes for the upper x-member mounts. What else needs to be done to complete?

[rancid]

can you just send your stock crossmember to a shop and have them do a notch and mail it back.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

Knockin' the dust off of this one. I re-read this whole thread and the details of the mods required to make everything work after the re-install are a little hazy other than a few steering mods, and the drilling of new bolt holes for the upper x-member mounts. What else needs to be done to complete?

That's about it as far as I can tell. You will need to grind a fair amount of the front lip of the cross member as well to clear the tie-rod ends. Everything else is just re-assembly.

Originally Posted by rancid

can you just send your stock crossmember to a shop and have them do a notch and mail it back.

Capt Kaos used to do them. Send him a PM to see if he still does.

[Captkaos]

Wow, I bumped it and then missed a ton of responses..

Yes I will still do them if you are interested. Shipping them USPS is pretty cheap , UPS = BAD.

You have to drill new holes in the upper plate, and you have to reroute the steering over the upper control arm.

[SCOTI]

Since I limited my 'notch' to a 1 1/8", I didn't have to relocate my steering shaft. I'm using Borgeson stuff: (1) 3/4" O.D. x 36-splined shaft & (2) 3/4" x 36-spline 'single' u-joints.

With a 3" block in place of the bag (which represents the compressed limits of the bag) I just barely clear the upper ART arm (maybe .020"). I'm prob going to clearance the arm for added insurance but that would still be worst case scenario. At ride height, I'm good to go.

Also..... remember that different vehicles (and thus different combinations of parts) offer varying amounts of clearance, which directly effects how much grinding it will take to make things work. I had to trim alot more on mine than what CaptKaos had to on XXL's crossmember. My truck uses 73 & later suspension stuff (tie-rods/draglink) so check everything closely.

[2nd_wnd]

Ok, I have read entire post and I am still slightly cornfused.

Can you take a newer crossmember with a-arms and everything and install in on a 72. all 1/2 ton? If so does it actually lower the ride height? I'm wanting to stay fairly close to original ride height

[XXL]

Originally Posted by 2nd_wnd

Can you take a newer crossmember with a-arms and everything and install in on a 72. all 1/2 ton? If so does it actually lower the ride height? I'm wanting to stay fairly close to original ride height

Stock 73+ xmember assembly is a 99.99% bolt-in and does not change your ride height.

[2nd_wnd]

thanks for your quick response. Was hoping it would all work parts are definately gonne be cheaper that way. what about 88+ is it way different?


What about steering components? Mine has armstrong steer and would prefer power steer.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 2nd_wnd

thanks for your quick response. Was hoping it would all work parts are definately gonne be cheaper that way. what about 88+ is it way different?


What about steering components? Mine has armstrong steer and would prefer power steer.

88+ afaik is a no-go. Power steering is bolt-on unless you have a '67~68. You will have to dimple the frame to clear.

[Captkaos]

Originally Posted by 2nd_wnd

thanks for your quick response. Was hoping it would all work parts are definately gonne be cheaper that way. what about 88+ is it way different?

88-98's don't use a bolt in crossmember the upper control arms bolt to the frame, so no they won't work.

[2nd_wnd]

got mine today out of an 79 1/2 ton. already stripped it down and test fit it.




best part is now I have a sway bar for the front, didnt originally have one

[PrerunnerRob]

Hey guys, just following your posts here, look at the inside of the thinner(domed) spacer, it has serrations on it to grab the upper arm mounting shaft studs, them the dished spacer goes on the outsideof that. I believe it is 2 parts so it can correct it self to lay flat when allignmnet shims are used?

By the way, here is the crossmember I built.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=228976

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob

..... By the way, here is the crossmember I built.

Nice budget job. Nothing wrong w/doing it yourself it you have the skills.

[2nd_wnd]

Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob

Hey guys, just following your posts here, look at the inside of the thinner(domed) spacer, it has serrations on it to grab the upper arm mounting shaft studs, them the dished spacer goes on the outsideof that. I believe it is 2 parts so it can correct it self to lay flat when allignmnet shims are used?

starting form inside out mine was flat washer then the shims then the domed spacer, then the a-arm rod.

Is that what you mean?