Air Ride For Dummies

[Rollie396]

Originally Posted by wink_tim

Thats max lift. Ride height is just a couple inches higher than the aired out pics.

ahhh good news!I'm goin with a very similar setup but mines still just a frame with bags.I've been real curious about what the ride height would be.
What pressures you running?I'd sure like to see a pic at ride height as well whenever you can.

[frankyrealtor]

Hi, cool setup...Do you have any pics of the rear bag install . i am trying to install the back bags and i dont have a cup or any thing. the air bag has two places for the bolts and on for the sir fitting. do i just drill the the three hols out and bount like that . any info helpfull or pics to. Thanks Frank


Email

Frankmentesana@verizon.net

[wink_tim]

Originally Posted by frankyrealtor

Hi, cool setup...Do you have any pics of the rear bag install . i am trying to install the back bags and i dont have a cup or any thing. the air bag has two places for the bolts and on for the sir fitting. do i just drill the the three hols out and bount like that . any info helpfull or pics to. Thanks Frank


Email

Frankmentesana@verizon.net

You are correct sir. I drillied 2 3/8" holes for bolts and 1 aprox. 1" for the fitting on the under side of the frame, same location as factory spring. Check back in this post, I made a template to transfer the marks. Very simple.

[wink_tim]

BTW, this has been covered before, but anyone using Suicide Doors lower cups should consider triming them down about 1". I took mine back out and cut them, now my front cross member is maybe 1" off the ground aired out.They are way too tall as shipped.

[jimmydean]

Do you have a shot of your truck aired out with the cups trimmed?

<edit> I ask because I will be installing mine this week!

Also, are you running drop spindles?

[wink_tim]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Do you have a shot of your truck aired out with the cups trimmed?

No, but if you give about 10 minutes I will go outside and take one for you. Oh, and yes I am running drop spindles, 2.5".

[wink_tim]

How about these?

[jimmydean]

you are running blocks in the rear too, correct? What size?

By the way, your truck looks great!

I will be installing my kit over the next week or so. I am trying to do it without pulling the bed and I should be ok. I don't have a garage that my truck fits into and I would rather not have to put the bed somewhere while I get everything done.

[wink_tim]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

you are running blocks in the rear too, correct? What size?

By the way, your truck looks great!

I will be installing my kit over the next week or so. I am trying to do it without pulling the bed and I should be ok. I don't have a garage that my truck fits into and I would rather not have to put the bed somewhere while I get everything done.

Yes, they are 2" blocks. It would be possible to do with the bed on, not easy, but possible. Let me know if you have any questions, I can try to help.

[jimmydean]

Mine will be a little different then the others on here, but I think everyones is a little different. I will be taking pics of mine to share as well, just in case my system helps any.
As it is I am running two lines off the tank, one for each side. My valves will be mounted on the frame under right under the cab for easy access. That way I have a shorter distance for the wires as well.

[frankyrealtor]

great truck

[gringoloco]

Wink-

Want to make sure I've got this right.

You are bagged in stock spring locations front and back, with a 2 1/2" c-notch correct?

How far off the ground are the bumpers and pinch welds when aired out?

Truck looks great btw.-Chris

[jimmydean]

He also cut down the front cups (about an inch left).

I am leaving my cups as is for now and may run a small cup in the rear to start with. I can go lower if I want, but going higher would mean additional work to drive it. At this point I would be happy to be on the road again.

[pharcyde05]

the truck looks great do you have any plans for wheels

[Ford Assassin]

Should be a sticky.....

[67chevemall]

It is time to take the bed off. Got all my stuff ready.
minus the comp. switches and tank. Get that latter.

Thanks for this tread

[Putter]

Maybe I overlooked this tidbit of info....but how do the bags mount on the trailing arms?
It looks like the bags have a center hole for air, but outer holes for mounting. Trailing arms have a center hole for the bolts.
See my problem?
Is there a bracket, do you drill extra holes, or is there a specific air bag part number to get to the hole is in the correct place?

Thanks in advance,
Putter

[chevy_mike]

Usually most bottom mounts on the bags have one bolt hole, which works great with the trailing arm. It's the top one that has two mounting studs or bolt holes.

[Putter]

So would the rear bag require a plate of any sort where the bag meets the frame? I just don't want to dive in half-informed.
The front has been well covered by several posts and makes perfect sense, including cutting the cups down....but the back doesn't seem to get as much coverage in the threads.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Putter

So would the rear bag require a plate of any sort where the bag meets the frame? I just don't want to dive in half-informed.
The front has been well covered by several posts and makes perfect sense, including cutting the cups down....but the back doesn't seem to get as much coverage in the threads.

Some will choose to install a 'hat' that has the required holes. This makes for a much easier install but adds to the overall bag height (so it limits the total drop).

Others will mount the bottom of the bag through the original hole in the trailing arm & drill the required holes in the frame. This is much more difficult but allows for more total drop (or more air psi required per bag height which can help w/the overall 'spring' rate).

[gringoloco]

You will need to run a spacer up top, or drill mounting holes and a larger air fitting hole in the frame. If you want to be low, drilling is the way to go.

The bottom of the bag just bolts to the trailing arm via the coil spring hole w/ a 4" long bolt.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Putter

So would the rear bag require a plate of any sort where the bag meets the frame? I just don't want to dive in half-informed.
The front has been well covered by several posts and makes perfect sense, including cutting the cups down....but the back doesn't seem to get as much coverage in the threads.

ARR 21800 LCA

http://www.ridetech.com/more/test-posting/

[shifty]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Some will choose to install a 'hat' that has the required holes. This makes for a much easier install but adds to the overall bag height (so it limits the total drop).

Others will mount the bottom of the bag through the original hole in the trailing arm & drill the required holes in the frame. This is much more difficult but allows for more total drop (or more air psi required per bag height which can help w/the overall 'spring' rate).

Someone sells a product that allows you to mount rear bags without drilling the top of the frame?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by shifty

Someone sells a product that allows you to mount rear bags without drilling the top of the frame?

I don't know if they're a 'standard' p/n. Contact ART to see if they still offer them (they were part of the rear CPP air-ride kit).

I made mine but then didn't use them because they would not allow for the full drop that I wanted.

[jorgensensc]

I'm a cheapskate, so I just drilled the holes in the frame. Time consuming and tedious. Make sure and double check before you drill, if you are off even a little you will have to drill larger holes than what you wanted. On a side not, Now my exhaust hits the brake junction block on top of the rear differential. Has anyone else ran into this problem? Did you just remount the j-block oon the bottom of the differential? What was your solution?
Shawn