LFD's low buck truck build!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Surely there are some local members who can help Kevin get this stuffed shipped?

If someone has the free time and can do this than that would be great I am just over extended as it is. My wife tells me I need to start telling people NO from time to time but it is in my nature to say yes and try and help

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[68C15]

that is cool with me Kevin. I understand.
I am in the process of a home remodel as well. mine is a 1916 Sears. I'm not sure of the model yet but the wood is amazingly hard and tight grained. i have to use drywall screws as the nails just bend. (heartwood pine everywhere. including the studs)

[Rokcrln]

Well we made (my father inlaw and my self) progress on the truck today. We put in new plugs($16.72), wires ($34.00) and the HEI then He tuned it with a vac guage and his ear but it runs like a champ, idle's smooth, shifts hard and breaks very hard Then we put on the bumpers that had come with my 71 SWB because the ones that came with this are too nice for a tow vehical and would look so nice on my 71 with the 68 front clip. They do not have the turn lights like this one does. I am thinking about fog or driving lights in the bumper holes. Any ideas? Then we replaced the tail gate latch, put in the carpet I have had sitting around for about 8yrs also out of my 71 and since it has been body dropped it will no longer work. I got one of the new mirrors on but the passenger side was miss boxed and the arm is not for this truck so I need to track down a new one. All in all it was a great day and for tomarow I plan on fixing the radiator, replacing the power steering pump, box and psi line. Then I need to build a mount for the seats and it is road ready!!

Here are a few pics.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $491.06
and 18hrs

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 68C15

that is cool with me Kevin. I understand.
I am in the process of a home remodel as well. mine is a 1916 Sears. I'm not sure of the model yet but the wood is amazingly hard and tight grained. i have to use drywall screws as the nails just bend. (heartwood pine everywhere. including the studs)

Small world mine is a sears as well but way newer than yours (by 12yrs )

Here is what takes alot of my time and with our first kid on the way I have alot to finish like put in air and heat and other usless stuff like that. It is not going to be cheap

Here was part of this summers work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[meathead95]

my parents have a sears home as well dated back to the thirties. we found the origional blueprints and paperwork in a tube inbetween the rafters upstairs when we where remodeling it.

[kevs_c10]

Hi Kevin,
I'll take the gas tank if you've still got it and the tailgate if it isn't too far gone. I'll PM you my phone number to set up a good time to drop by.
Thanks!

[cheyenne10]

I suggestion on the parts shipping problem. I wonder if there is a local member who needs some fo the surplus parts that would trade some of his labor to box and ship stuff in exchange for the donated part(s)? They would have to make the shipping cost arrangements but maybe would feel better if tehy earned what they got.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

They do not have the turn lights like this one does. I am thinking about fog or driving lights in the bumper holes. Any ideas?

How about RAM AIR intake from the holes in the bumper? I know this is just a driver so fog lights would be cool...

[lamar]

Hey Kevin what are those seats out of? Sorry if this has been covered, but I have just started following along with your build. Thanks, Lamar.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by lamar

Hey Kevin what are those seats out of? Sorry if this has been covered, but I have just started following along with your build. Thanks, Lamar.

Back row of a 2005 tahoe. they are not great seats because they do not adjust at all and are kind of narrow as well but they are free so why not give them a try.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[lamar]

Thanks, I thought they were Tahoe or Yukon. May not be the best seats but they look cool!!!! thanks again, Lamar.

[PanelDeland]

Kevin,the amount of work you have done in the limited time you have been working on this along with your other obligations astounds me.I no longer have the drive or stamina to do this type of stuff.I have been following this thread and it has given me a boost in initiative to get going better on mine.Thanks for that.Now if the weather would just co-operate....

[msgross]

wait till the baby comes... momma won't let you that much time outside the house and good luck getting any sleep!

[hotrodhomi]

Are you giving away the seats now? If so, I'll take them and use them in the back of my blazer. Will you be around tonight around 4:45?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

Are you giving away the seats now? If so, I'll take them and use them in the back of my blazer. Will you be around tonight around 4:45?

Not yet I am joing to try and see how they work. But if I change my mind I have you on speed dial

Kevin

[Rokcrln]

Ok back to the build! I got alot done today but it was very windy and that made things a pain in the a$$.

I started by pulling out the radiator and fixing the leak. I went to home Depot and come to find out here in California they do not sell Solder with Lead any more at you local places. So I just bought a kit for about $8.00 and used my MAP gass tortch that I have for doing plumbing and it worked great no leaks so thanks for the help. All in all once it was out I think I spent about 5 min cleaning, moving fins out of the way, soldering and moving fins back! Total about 1 hour to remove, fix and replace.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $499.06
and 19hrs

[Rokcrln]

Then came the PS pump ($66.98), PSI hose ($23.39), steering box (free in bed of truck ) and the rag joint rebuild kit($7.69) and about 4 hours in labor(I already had the radiator out). replacing the pump was easier just to remove the radiator and fan so you have good access. Once the pump was out you will need to remove the pully off your pump and re use it on the new one. I have a cheap kit that works well for this. It came from Napa auto parts and runs about $25.00 Then put it all back in just like it came out.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
total $596.84
and 23 hrs

[Rokcrln]

I found that my steering rag joint was bad so instead of spending $50 or so for a new joint I just bought a rebuild kit for mine and it only cost $7.69 and took about 20min to rebuild. Just grind off the head of the two rivits and pundh them out (very easy) then you will need to put it in a vise so you can get the lock washer and nut on. Then just put it back in. The kit had a standard size post and a larger one that I can only think helps take out some of the slop in the coupler. It fit fine and works great.

Kevin
LFD Inc

[Rokcrln]

Now for an old hot rod trick I learned years ago form my budys dad. I like to run a single belt from the crank right to the water pump pully. It does not run anything but just is along for the ride untill that long Alt. belt decides to fly off as you are pulling a big hill with a loaded trailer and their is no where to pull off for about 5 or 6 miles. Do you let the motor over heat, stop and pull to the side of the road a posibly cause a wreck! No you just keep on driving because that due nothing belt is now running your water pump untill you have a safe place to pull off and fix things I show the Napa part # that I use with the stock size pullys. How you get it on (since their is not an adjuster for the water pump) is remove your other belts, and the fan from the water pump. Then put the belt on the second (how I did it) from the back grove on the crank and over the water pump flange. Then put the belt on the water pump pully and angle it on the flange and push it in place. This is needed in order to get a tight fitting belt on both pullys. It does not fit as tight as other drive belts but it does not need to, being so short it will not jump off or cause a problem (atleast in teh 20ys I have been doing this). The put you fan and other belts back on just like you would always do and you are set. The belt was $7.86 and no extra time since it was all part for the PS pump.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
total $604.71
and 23hrs

[Rokcrln]

You know this build has been alot of fun so far but strange at the same time. On most of my builds I would be in the $2000+ range for what I have done here so far because I would have replaced everything as I went. But on this one I am just doing what needs to be done to be safe and reliable. Normaly I would have bought the High end HEI from Davis Unified Ing. (DUI) for $300 and their 8.5mm wires for another $100+ and better plugs that would go 50,000 miles for $80+- or so for a truck that might get 2-3K miles a year on it. I would have also ran out and did new exhaust instead if fixing it for now and that would have been $3-600 depending on headers/manifolds, aluminized tubing, flowmasters and you just have to have the chrome tips! So for me each time Isit down to add up parts I cringe at what it is going to be then when I add it up and only see $604.71 to date and the truck is on the road and is running good and feels safe it is kind of a neat feeling

So the next things will be mounting the Tahoe seats, tracking down some wiring problems like int. lights, heater and small things like that. Then will be the lowered front dropped spindles and springs (5") and the rear flip kit (6-7") and a good alignment because it darts side to side so chances are it needs it but I will wait untill I drop it so I do not pay for an alignment twice. Then will come the chop job to the frame and bed but that will not happen for a few months untill I get cought up on customer builds now that it is starting to warm up a bit



Kevin
LFD Inc.

[FarmTruk]

Kevin, I love reading this thread, and have gotten many good tips, and seen how to do things I never would have thought of. Members like you, and many others here, are the reason I spend so much time reading these posts.

BYW...great work on the house remodel. Looks like a million bucks.

[Dadsredwagon]

great threead!!!! quick question, were you able to track down the rust form the kick panel area? my 65 has the same area but bigger problem, was curiuos if you traked down the leak if any?

thx

[68C15]

around here they call that a "circle track belt".


carefull on the budget anouncement. if the little lady finds out how cheap it really can be it may come back to haunt ya later. LOL

[kbs71]

kevin,
Glad you got the radiator fixed. The only time i take mine to the shop anymore is if its areplacement job (tank or fins) or if I think it needs a good cleaning. Actually I've cleaned them out before with dulited muratic acid and it worked fine. I forgot you in CA where they don't let you buy anything that might be considerd haz. mat. The solder job should last a long time.

[68GMC454]

this is my kinda build..low buck,,but got it running and on the road...for me that is my goal for my truck....but im not shorting the bed,,on this one..lol...nice job on the house to..