The MONEY PIT

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by drogers

Here are some pictures of the cab.

Say.....that floor looks familiar!(just like mine)

Looks like a great project. Welcome from southern Indiana. Lots of great folks on this board. Look forward to watching your project develop.

[joe231]

I have heard horror stories about those filters breaking and spewing gas everywhere
Never happened to me personally
Just figure better safe than sorry...

[Strodder]

I always use those clear plastic, with paper element gas filters. There cheap, and effective. Nice progress.

[TimE]

Nice progress...keep it up!

[jason65]

It's good to see progress.

[scotts62]

Wow looking good man

[drogers]

Made more progress this weekend but also ran into a problem. Here is my other post, fired on the first crank. It was freaking amazing but now I'm stuck. Here are a few more pictures of my progress.


My wife came out to start the truck while I stood over the engine bay to make sure nothing blew up. She fired it up, 2nd time and then shut it back down saying it was too loud. Those might have been the nicest words she has ever spoken, not really. 350 straight headers, does it get any better??

[protrash64]

I woulda said 'WHAT?" very loudly.......congrats!!!!!!!!!!

[joe231]

Cool!!
but sucks at the same time....

[drogers]

Thanks guys.

[protrash64]

We will now be waiting for the first burnout video/pics.

[jason65]

Cool D!

[AnlaufJohn]

I'm glad drogers is taking pictures of his floorboard repair. My '66 is in need of that transplant of good metal for the bad, rusty stuff it currently has. The funny thing about my owning this 1966 C-10 LWB is if I can get the cab weather -tight, then my wife will consider driving it. She really doesn't like seeing the asphalt pass under her feet when driving it. I had that same problem with a 1978 Ford Courier way back in a previous marriage. The trucks have always been "mine."

Are those panels for the sills and floor available? I haven't found a good source for those types of parts, and if any online sources around, I would like to know who they are.

John in Eugene, Oregon

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by AnlaufJohn

I'm glad drogers is taking pictures of his floorboard repair. My '66 is in need of that transplant of good metal for the bad, rusty stuff it currently has. The funny thing about my owning this 1966 C-10 LWB is if I can get the cab weather -tight, then my wife will consider driving it. She really doesn't like seeing the asphalt pass under her feet when driving it. I had that same problem with a 1978 Ford Courier way back in a previous marriage. The trucks have always been "mine."

Are those panels for the sills and floor available? I haven't found a good source for those types of parts, and if any online sources around, I would like to know who they are.

John in Eugene, Oregon

There are many places to get body patch panels. I would first suggest checking with some of the vendors here on the board such as Tri-pro Automotive, MBGMike, and GMC Pauls. Here are a couple of websites to check out....
http://www.tri-proautomotive.com/ser...766/Categories
http://www.bumpandgrindgarage.com/
http://www.classicparts.com/
http://www.lmctruck.com/
http://www.truckandcarshop.com/
http://www.mar-k.com/
http://www.tabcobodyparts.com

[drogers]

Well it's been a while. I got her running a few weeks ago but have been chasing issues ever since.

This is what I have posted over in the engine section.

Any guesses on what is making the clapping/clicking noise, please don't say rocker. This is a rebuilt 350, hedman header, edelbrock 1406. I thought maybe it was a leak at the headers but after replacing the gasket it's still there. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

YouTube - 63 Chevy Truck

BTW it's only on the pass side.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by drogers

Well it's been a while. I got her running a few weeks ago but have been chasing issues ever since.

This is what I have posted over in the engine section.

Any guesses on what is making the clapping/clicking noise, please don't say rocker. This is a rebuilt 350, hedman header, edelbrock 1406. I thought maybe it was a leak at the headers but after replacing the gasket it's still there. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

YouTube - 63 Chevy Truck

BTW it's only on the pass side.

Sounds like the headers on my Ford. Maybe get some dish soap and squirt it around the headers and see if it makes bubbles. Just a thought? Hope it's headers. I never could get mine to stop making the noise. Thats been years now.

[drogers]

With some help over in the engince section of the web I found the problem..

Much - Much better

YouTube - D&J's 63 Chevy Truck

[daverod]

That sounds much better what was it? Never mine I went and looked at the other sight. Thats to funny. I'll have to remember not to do that.

[drogers]

Not sure if there are rules against double post, hope not but if so please delete.

This is what I have over in the engine section of the web. Figured someone here might be able to help also.

Thanks for all the help so far on this,

I'm still having a problem with the engine overheating.

When I first did this post I had an aluminum radiator installed that measured, 22”w X 18 1/2”h x 2”thick over all. The actual core area is 17”w x 18”H x 2” thick and is 2 core. The truck would heat up to around 240.

I went down today and got another radiator, metal/copper that measures 26 1/2”w x 18”h x 2” thick over all. The actual core are is 20”w x 17 3/4” x 2” thick and is a 5 core. The truck still gets around 240.

I have a brand new water pump, thermostat (with 2 holes that I drilled into it), and a 16” electric fan.

When I filled it up with water I removed the thermostat and placed the hose in it to try and remove any air pockets. I then replaced the thermistor and added additional water to the radiator, left it about 1” below the top.

Below are a few pictures of the old, and the new installed. I know the flex hoses are frowned upon and they will be changed later. I'm also looking for a fan shroud but have not found the right one yet.

As always thanks for the help.

[scotts62]

Hey man that's looking good!
I wish mine was in the spot to put a new radiator in but it will be one day

[protrash64]

Is it running lean?

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by drogers

Not sure if there are rules against double post, hope not but if so please delete.

This is what I have over in the engine section of the web. Figured someone here might be able to help also.

Thanks for all the help so far on this,

I'm still having a problem with the engine overheating.

When I first did this post I had an aluminum radiator installed that measured, 22”w X 18 1/2”h x 2”thick over all. The actual core area is 17”w x 18”H x 2” thick and is 2 core. The truck would heat up to around 240.

I went down today and got another radiator, metal/copper that measures 26 1/2”w x 18”h x 2” thick over all. The actual core are is 20”w x 17 3/4” x 2” thick and is a 5 core. The truck still gets around 240.

I have a brand new water pump, thermostat (with 2 holes that I drilled into it), and a 16” electric fan.

When I filled it up with water I removed the thermostat and placed the hose in it to try and remove any air pockets. I then replaced the thermistor and added additional water to the radiator, left it about 1” below the top.

Below are a few pictures of the old, and the new installed. I know the flex hoses are frowned upon and they will be changed later. I'm also looking for a fan shroud but have not found the right one yet.

As always thanks for the help.

Check and make sure the fan is running in the right direction. You could have the wires reversed. It's a common mistake. It should be pulling the air in.

[drogers]

I'm back, well almost. Been waiting for it to cool off and just enjoying my truck. I'm still not sure I have the cooling issue resolved but so far so good.

I've been lurking out here all summer and a lot of you have made some amazing progress, can't wait to make some progress.

I'm trying to get a to do list together for this fall.
1. Brakes
2. Put in a B&M shifter, or similar. Then build/fab a center console around it.
3. Finish up the cab.
4. Start on the body.

I think I've looked at every disc to drum conversion out there. I would like to keep my 6 lug and just upgrade to disc. I've gone out to a few salvage and I'm looking at $200-300 for just the main parts to do the front end. This does not include changing out the tie rod ends, ball joints, brake lines, barrings, seals, etc, etc.

So here's my question. Has anyone ever purchased this kit?

I read a few post about some bad experiences with CPP, over promise, under deliver?

As always, thanks for the advice and assistance.

[Alan's Classic]

Welcome back (to posting)!!

CPP will not get my business again at least not directly. I read last week here on a review post that someone recommended to use a vendor that sells CPP stuff. Maybe the vendor will have better customer service. Just my .02.

[jack SF]

my brother installed another kit from CPP.. i did not hear him complaining.
i bought a compete alluminium fuel tank from them and some steering stuff.
the tank was on back order when i ordered it. it came in 3 weeks as they said. than i lost the install instructions and they mailed me a new set. overall not bad. and their stuff looks good.