'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Frizzle Fry]

Slowed over the past month or so due to a demanding class and lots of OT at work. I managed to get out there twice in that time including a few hours today. I'll be back out there tomorrow and my next post will include an update/pics.

[Jvsapp]

i know the feeling. been slow on my projects too. work changed up my schedule. but if i had the opportunity to get OT i would be all over that as well. especially in this time of economic hardship you have to take what ever is offered to you. i've only been able to swing 3-4 hrs here and there on my swap. should be updating that tomorrow hopefully.

Keep us posted FF.

[68C15]

subscribing to this unbelievable awesomerrific project.

one thing I would do differently though is the wheels. I would go with some plain steelies to thwart off suspicion at stop lights.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 68C15

subscribing to this unbelievable awesomerrific project.

one thing I would do differently though is the wheels. I would go with some plain steelies to thwart off suspicion at stop lights.

Eventually I'll get some 16-17" Steelies and run the OG hubcaps with WWW's as my street shoes.

Here's what I've been up to. With three of the four brackets tacked to the rear end as mocked up in the car I chose to do the fourth one out on the stands due to the more difficult fitting required by the overlap onto the diff housing. Here's that tacked in place:





Rear back in place and "frame" marked for C-Notches:

[Frizzle Fry]

Then, since my degree finder was loaned out, I moved back to the front.

This is a template of the S2000 frame rail with wheel center and rack center positions marked. The rack center is pretty far back and requires the engine to set back further than I had initially expected:




This gave me a good excuse to get the engine set back as far as possible. I had a couple inches left at the firewall but the intake was the limiter:







Intake plenum cleaned up a bit (unused mounting bossed removed):


Spacial conflict resolved. You can see that the throttle pedal arm shape works out perfectly for this:


The engine went in and back out again and more material was freed:

[Frizzle Fry]

As much as I like footbox cooling air I decided to put some metal back:















There's a little more clean-up to do on that piece and then I'll fill in the section below it.

[msgross]

so I doubt they have pre made C-notches for that car right???

[tdave00]

Cool. Looks like progress.

[dammitmitchell]

wow......

[Ironclad454]

This is one of my favorite builds. I am in awe, very cool.

[Sub-versive]

Thanks for the updates!
You are awe inspiring!
Can't wait to see the finished car!

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Eventually I'll get some 16-17" Steelies and run the OG hubcaps with WWW's as my street shoes.

i have seen some newer dodge rentals running 17" steelies. i think it was a nitro or something of that nature. 5X125 bolt pattern i think. that got my mind turning about being able to cloak some performance rubber under something with steel wheels. total sleeper. AWESOME work FF. can't wait to see more progress.

[Jvsapp]

i wish i could edit my last post. but here's what it is. it's a dodge caliber. one on ebay for the look. 17x 6.5 wheels.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-...3A1|240%3A1318

also there are durango wheels same size, but wider at 7.5
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/17-DO...3A1|240%3A1318

some of the 1500 trucks are 7" so if your bolt pattern are the same then that might be up your alley. a good score would be craigslist or local wrecking yard.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by msgross

so I doubt they have pre made C-notches for that car right???

Yes, it's called DOM tubing

Originally Posted by tdave00

Cool. Looks like progress.

Originally Posted by dammitmitchell

wow......

Originally Posted by Ironclad454

This is one of my favorite builds. I am in awe, very cool.

Originally Posted by Sub-versive

Thanks for the updates!
You are awe inspiring!
Can't wait to see the finished car!

Thanks guys!

Originally Posted by Jvsapp

i have seen some newer dodge rentals running 17" steelies. i think it was a nitro or something of that nature. 5X125 bolt pattern i think. that got my mind turning about being able to cloak some performance rubber under something with steel wheels. total sleeper. AWESOME work FF. can't wait to see more progress.

Originally Posted by Jvsapp

i wish i could edit my last post. but here's what it is. it's a dodge caliber. one on ebay for the look. 17x 6.5 wheels.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-...3A1|240%3A1318

also there are durango wheels same size, but wider at 7.5
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/17-DO...3A1|240%3A1318

some of the 1500 trucks are 7" so if your bolt pattern are the same then that might be up your alley. a good score would be craigslist or local wrecking yard.

Thanks for the info. My current wheels are 8" wide with a 5x114.3mm pattern. I'll keep an eye out for some.

[Jvsapp]

hey FF,

here's one in your neck of the woods
http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/1136154529.html

sorry i have a habit of checking out craigslist in areas i have friends living in. i saw a nice plasma cutter in portland that i had my friend go check out for me.

[Frizzle Fry]

Test fit With about 3/8" clearance I will definitely need poly mounts:

[6772owner]

FF the fabrication skills you have just amazes me. I wish I was half that good, you are truly an artist with metal.

[Frizzle Fry]

Got the rear links done (shown tacked but they are final welded):






I also discovered that the pumpkin was hitting the body at the same time as the axle tubes were hitting the pinch welds. So I chose to simply shave the pinch welds for now, which gave me about +3/4" clearance. Later, if I need more room I can C-Notch it and add a dome over the pumpkin.

[Jvsapp]

coming along awesome FF. i would figure you would go with solid mounts for the engine? do they make poly mounts or are you going to fab some up?

also your SIG needs updating... shows updated 3/26 on the sunbeam

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Jvsapp

coming along awesome FF. i would figure you would go with solid mounts for the engine? do they make poly mounts or are you going to fab some up?

also your SIG needs updating... shows updated 3/26 on the sunbeam

Poly bushings. Funny thing about the sig; when I try to update it it wants me to cut it way down vbulliten...

[Skirkpat]

So let me get this straight, all of the engine (except acc.) will sit behind the front wheels centerline? That will be a freaking riot to drive...

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Poly bushings. Funny thing about the sig; when I try to update it it wants me to cut it way down vbulliten...

that sucks... musta been them recent upgrades due to guys abusing the delete button...

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 6772owner

FF the fabrication skills you have just amazes me. I wish I was half that good, you are truly an artist with metal.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Skirkpat

So let me get this straight, all of the engine (except acc.) will sit behind the front wheels centerline? That will be a freaking riot to drive...

Pretty close, ya. Should be fun.

[Jvsapp]

FF looking back through your thread, i just noticed that you have the master cylinder on it's side. are you planning to run a remote tank? and how did you calculate the brake pedal pin location? without the booster so that the brakes won't be too hard to use?

[neto]

Amazing build! That thing is going to fly. I have an S2000 stock and it moves like you wouldn't believe. WOW.