'67 Chevy II Build - Betty.

[samwise68]

And pics.

Finally some tires in the rear.










And that's where it sits tonight.

I didn't get anymore done, just ran outta time. Now it's dinner and homework. Maybe tomorrow will bring more results? We'll see.

Let's hear it!

-Sam.

[Frizzle Fry]

Love the concept of TA's in a car. Can't wait to see how it turns out!

[Jvsapp]

looking good sam. your own hotrods to hell setup. how are you planning to do the trailing arms to the floor? something like FF's setup on the minx? or something like a c notch?

[samwise68]

Thanks guys! This weekend was hectic, due to halloween and all, but it looks like I'll have some time to get cranking soon.

As far as the trailing arms and the floor, I'm hoping by dropping them down that extra inch or inch and a half, it'll allow enough clearance for the foot well of the back seat.

If not, I'll just tunnel over them. Kinda like a driveshaft tunnel, except it'll just be over where the trailing arms run. It's not perfect, and some better planning on my part would alleviate it, but hey. It should work.

And just another pic I ran across of a red and white.



Let's hear it guys. Hopefully soon I'll have more progress.

-Sam.

[Jvsapp]

looks like a 63 with a 5 lug conversion(due to the rally wheels). don't think it's original though. but it looks good, and those bumper guards are impossible to get. kind of reminds me of the interior color of my 63. i had to get rid of the red as fast as i could.

[samwise68]

Wel, I tried to drop the crossmember a little lower, but it just ended with cock-eyed welds and tubing.

So, after examining it again, I'm just going to sacarfice backseat footwell area, and tunnel over the trailing arms a bit more, instead of dropping the crossmember.

I think it'll allow the trailing arms to hook more with the car, instead of being underneath the subframe connectors. Plus, it'll be easier. Haha.

No pics though. It's nothing to see...trust me...


Soon though, the shop will be done, and I can roll her into a nice brightly lit heated work area for the winter. And then things should really get cranking...I hope.

-Sam.

[samwise68]

Pics soon to come!

I bolted the rearend to the arms tight, and cut out some more floor. It looks like I'll have plenty of suspension travel with that configuration.

Now I just have to get the crossmember clamped and tacked in, and then starts the measuring and leveling, etc, to make sure that the rearend will be centered, and not dog track down the road.

I think I'll mock up the tranny, and use the driveshaft to help with my "measuring". It sure can't hurt, lol.

So, that's where she sits now. I have a bit of a lull in my day, so hopefully I can get back out there, get some more done, and take some pics.

I'll keep you all posted.

-Sam.

[samwise68]

Well folks, we're within an 1/8th of an inch, most less than a 1/16th, in all aspects of the suspension.

That's the rear end centered between the wheels wells, and also the rear end being perpendicular to the body. Everything is currently tacked, so I'm going to do some more measuring to ensure that I'm right. But, it's looking good.

Pics to come, and possibly more progress!

-Sam.

[bobjob]

WOW!!!! how much rust can you guys find on one car??? raised in so.cal,, then moved to AZ. we don't ever see that much rust on our rust buckets.. only heard of them.. guess you guys get really good at replacing panels...

[samwise68]

Bobjob - it's only rust, and only metal. What the hell, ya know? haha. Just makes it easier to hack up a car like I'm doing.

And finally, pics.

I got the springs bolted on, and set it down off the jack stands. The first time in about 9 months that it hasn't been on stands!!





You can see that the coils are just riding on the belly pan, which is fine for now. I'll put in the upper spring mounts soon enough. But for now, it's roll-able, which is major for me.

I also have to do some more measuring and double checking to make sure everything is level and square and acceptable.

In your opinion, how much of a leeway do you think I can get away with, with this kind of suspension?

I also did some measuring on my GMC, and compared it to the arms on my II. The arms are 42 inches apart on the GMC at the axle. They're 37 inches apart on my II. I attribute this to worn out bushings, but I'm concerned that it's going to affect the geometry of the suspension...Opinions?

My only concern is that if I move the t-arms out to the proper specs, the springs are going to have to ride on the frame rails, thus raising the car that much higher, making the appearance look off, along with not helping the hooking, etc.

So, I've got some figuring to do, and a lot more measuring. I may post over in the suspension area, I'm not sure yet.

But yes, progress nonetheless. Once I get this figures out, the rust repair and sheetmetal fabrication shouldn't be much of an issue at all. Haha, riiiiggghhhttt...

-Sam.

[Jvsapp]

damn sam, nice progress.

you didn't change out the bushings when you had the arms out? i would definitley get them changed and see where the arms line up. you could always build a spring pocket like a chevelle(monte) or impala(caprice) has by the frame rail where the spring would line up. i would be concerned with the gemoetry. can you take out the springs and cycle the axle through normal movement up and down? perhaps put the car on jack stands and see if you have any binding.

when you measure, do some cross mesurements and see if everything is square. i would say 1/16" to 1/8" off would be ok. the factory was around that in their assembly.

[samwise68]

Thanks!

And yeah, I didn't change out the bushings. I know, I know...I really should. This is definitely a budget deal, so we'll see how the pennies fall in the next few weeks or so.

And I guess mounting the springs isn't really that big of a deal. I can make just about anywhere work...

And for the suspension travel, yes, I can cycle it through no problem. I'll work on that in the next few days.

I'm also going to be remeasuring everything. I welded the crossmember in enough that I'm not worried about it moving, but I can always cut and tweak it. I just don't want it to be crooked and half-assed (more than it already is, haha).

So, tomorrow I'll get out the level and the tape measure, and see if I have everything in line. Maybe I'll do some cleaning, and lay down chalk lines for reference to ensure I'm doing alright.

Any more pointers or suggestions?

-Sam.

[samwise68]

Alright, time for a mid-day update.

Checked level, and after jacking up one side in the front a bit for it to be level, the back seems to be level as well. Mind you, this is with the springs in.

Then took the springs out, and jacked up the rear end. And, well. Pics.









How's that for suspension travel?

It jacked up really easy, no binding, etc. So, I'm pretty pleased with that. After I took the pics, I gave the floor jack a few more pumps, and made it so that beer can just about fit under the tire standing up.

I also took note of where the springs sat, and am real happy with what I have to work with that, it's almost right where the stock shocks bolted in.

So, now comes the time to go back and measure some more, to make sure my crossmember is square, and the rear end is perpendicular to the car. Gah, this one's gonna suck...

But, that's it for now.

-Sam.

[samwise68]

Well guys, I bit the bullet and cut things apart and did some more measuring.

Now the trailing arms sit where they're supposed to, at 42 1/2 inches, or there abouts, apart at the very end of them, centerline to centerline.

So, just some peace of mind, so I personally know that it's not a hack job.

No pics, yet. I'll try to work on it some more tomorrow.

I have to measure and find out where the crossmember needs to go, square it up, and make sure the axle is centered in the wheel wells. After that, raise the car up, and put the springs in, to see where they're going to ride.

Then it's modifying the stock crossmember for the spring mounts, and welding the trailing arm crossmember in...followed by bracing and plating and all that.

The panhard will be addressed soon enough, but not a huge concern of mine at the moment.

and...that should be about it.

I'll keep you posted. More progress should come soon since my semester is winding down.

-Sam.

[samwise68]

After much more measuring, I moved the trailing arms in just a hair. Otherwise, the ends wouold rub on anything wider than a L78 - 14 tire. And personally, I'd like to run something a bit bigger than that. Haha.

So, moved them back in, centered and all. It took me two days, but I think it's in a good spot now. Maybe a 1/32th of an inch difference in the whole works. I'll do some more measuring to double check.

The only hitch is the springs rubbed the rear frame rails. So I could either notch out the frame rail, or more my springs inboard around 2 inches a piece. I chose the latter, and am currently making brackets that'll do just that.

It's not perfect, but I don't see an issue with the springs hanging off just a little bit. The arms aren't going to twist, due to solid mounts in the front and rear. And the springs will be completely vertical, so it should be a straight force downward.

And if they don't work, I'll unbolt them and find something else that'll work. Haha.

Pics are coming soon, I promise guys! I've actually been doing stuff in the garage. Honest.

I also took a closer look at Hotrods to Hell, and not trying to copy anything they do *cough* but I think I'm going to run my rear shocks near vertical off the back of the rear end, instead of forward facing like is stock on the truck.

This should give me better geometry, and all that. Also, I'm going to try to make a sort of "Spring compressor" screw jack to adjust ride height. Instead of just raising and lowering the upper mount, like HTH, I think somepressing the spring will allow for a more adjustable setup in regards to ride height and performance.

Opinions?

-Sam.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by samwise68

Opinions?

-Sam.

It's cold up there!

Nice to see your project progressing. Anxiously awaiting your pictures.

[samwise68]

Hey Bill!

It's like 20 degrees this past week. Perfect garage weather!

Pics to come, as soon as I forage for some batteries...

-Sam.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by samwise68

Hey Bill!

It's like 20 degrees this past week. Perfect garage weather!

Pics to come, as soon as I forage for some batteries...

-Sam.

It's 68 here. If I didn't have to spend so much time on the soccer field today I would be in the shop.

[Jvsapp]

i think it got to 63 overnight here last week. now it's in the low 70's. sam have you checked out speedway motors? they have alot of circle track items that might fit your bill. screw jacks like the nascar guys use... etc....
speedwaymotors.com . they might even have your upper mounts.

[samwise68]

I'll check out speedwaymotors.com, and see what they have to offer. It really can't hurt. haha.

Here are the pics of my inboard spring mounts:









It's all 1/4 inch plate. Braced, etc. I think I did a pretty decent job, and they'll clean up alright if I choose to grind welds and such.

I'll test fit tomorrow and see how it's all going to work out. Then I'll get my crossmember in for the upper spring mounts, and then decide where the springs lower mount will end up.

And that's it for now...

-Sam.

[Jvsapp]

don't know if you got a chance to look yet, but here's what it looks like
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-S...isplayId=23487

i was busy looking for a hydraulic slave. got an idea for my nova now

[samwise68]

Checked out speedway...they are very reasonably priced! wow. I have a feeling I'll be ordering some stuff from them...

and..do tell!

-Sam.

[Jvsapp]

hehehe well let's just say i came across a bunch of free parts recently. a 250 with a T5 trans. the bell is a mechanical clutch fork. i wish it was hydraulic instead. i was also looking at my 283 to stick in there. the T5 would live behind it ok i think. also i got a 10bolt 3.42 geared posi and disc brakes. also got a set of hooker super comps and the full exhaust that came from a 67 nova that the guy is doing a twin turbo setup.

so my inline will be getting replaced with a 283 and it will hopefully have the 5 speed behind it, but if that don't work, it'll be the T350. but defanetly the disc brakes in front and the 3.42 posi in back.

and yes speedway has alot of goodies... i want to get some valve covers from them for my 350 aluminum for $40? did you see the axle mounts for the springs?

[samwise68]

Ooo....283 with a five speed should give you some really great mileage.

And I saw the spring mounts for the axle. They look neat. I'm just not sure I know how they work....

-Sam.

[Jvsapp]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Lower-...erch,3527.html

i think they are weld on. also they have offset ones. then you could position the spring behind or infront the axle. remember most of the stuff is based around a A/G body like monte,cutlass etc. so i'm sure it will take a little work to get it to work with the truck arms