Starting my first build - 1966 C10

[Scot_Douglas]

Some poopy cellphone shots from last night. Still chasing down miscellaneous stuff - like the oil filter mount, starter, blah, blah, blah...




Need to finish up plumbing the power steering, get a few more fuel fittings to finish the line and setup the brakes. It's a stretch goal, but I'd like to fire it up by next weekend.

[Scot_Douglas]

[Scot_Douglas]

It runs.

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...=VIDEO0026.mp4

[chad64chevy]

sounds nice, thanks for the video!! looks good with just the cab on there! how far are your rockers gonna be off the ground 8-10 in.?? i've been cleaning scrapping and painting my inner fenders on weekends here lately just have finished them to update my thread!! once again nice build!!

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

sounds nice, thanks for the video!! looks good with just the cab on there! how far are your rockers gonna be off the ground 8-10 in.?? i've been cleaning scrapping and painting my inner fenders on weekends here lately just have finished them to update my thread!! once again nice build!!

Thanks!

I'm hoping the rockers are 6" or 7" off the ground when I get all the weight loaded back on. I was able to keep a flat belly on the truck - and the targeted measurement for the bottom of the frame (under the cab) was 9" when I was "designing" everything. We'll see how things line up - I've been incredibly lucky so far; this is my first project of this magnitude and I sort jumped in with both feet. Hopefully all goes well.

[Scot_Douglas]

BTW, the exhaust in my video is dual 2.5" pipes (coming off of headers) into Flowmaster Super 44's - then to turn downs that exit at the rear of the truck.
I'm trying to figure out a good way to fit a crossover between the duals before they hit the mufflers and so it stays tucked up in the frame.

[kieth]

Scott, You said this was a c 10, if you are going to change out the grille to a C10 let me know, I am looking for a 66 gmc front chrome grille........Kieth 918-446-2245

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by kieth

Scott, You said this was a c 10, if you are going to change out the grille to a C10 let me know, I am looking for a 66 gmc front chrome grille........Kieth 918-446-2245

As soon as I find that elusive 1960 chevy grille...

[Vega_67C10]

Nice work. That stance will look great on the road or sitting still. All around great job.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by Vega_67C10

Nice work. That stance will look great on the road or sitting still. All around great job.

Thanks! Here's an updated stance picture:



I think we named it "TourMater" last night.

[Scot_Douglas]

Not much you can really see, but I've been saddled with some real time consuming stuff getting the cab to sit correctly on the frame - namely; having to relieve the firewall in three different spots. Seems it didn't like me moving the engine 1.5" rearward.

Cab is mounted solid, steering shaft is done, brake master cylinder adapter mount done, clutch master mounted, brake lines and proportioning valve done, 3/4 ton front swaybar installed.

Tomorrow I hope to get both master cylinders connected to the pedals - then the only thing that'll keep me from driving this thing is the missing milkcrate.

[56taskforce]

All looks good wow that is some snaky steering shaft.

[lakeroadster]

I really enjoy following this build. Your "make it work" skills are off the chart.

Have you considered a safety cable around the motor mount? Kind of "belt and suspenders" but the only reason I ask is if the motor mount fails, and the engine torques over you may loose your steering.

Wide open throttle and no steering = cool video, but not from the drivers perspective.

When I was about 5 years old......

My dad had a motor mount break on a '65 Impala SS. One minute we were sitting at a stop light, the light went green and next thing I know the old man was burning rubber across the intersection Dad reached up and shut the car off and we coasted over to the curb. It was a manual trans. car and when the motor mount broke, the engine torqued over, throttle went wide open and the clutch and foot feed went to the floor. Only option was to turn it off. I gotta say I was impressed at how quick the old man shut it down. He wasn't trying to do a burnout, he merely just let out the clutch and things went "up in smoke" real quick! He took it to the local Chevy dealer and they replaced the mount. The new one had a safety cable around it, so if it did break, the separation was limited.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

I really enjoy following this build. Your "make it work" skills are off the chart.

Have you considered a safety cable around the motor mount? Kind of "belt and suspenders" but the only reason I ask is if the motor mount fails, and the engine torques over you may loose your steering.

Wide open throttle and no steering = cool video, but not from the drivers perspective.

When I was about 5 years old......

My dad had a motor mount break on a '65 Impala SS. One minute we were sitting at a stop light, the light went green and next thing I know the old man was burning rubber across the intersection Dad reached up and shut the car off and we coasted over to the curb. It was a manual trans. car and when the motor mount broke, the engine torqued over, throttle went wide open and the clutch and foot feed went to the floor. Only option was to turn it off. I gotta say I was impressed at how quick the old man shut it down. He wasn't trying to do a burnout, he merely just let out the clutch and things went "up in smoke" real quick! He took it to the local Chevy dealer and they replaced the mount. The new one had a safety cable around it, so if it did break, the separation was limited.

Thanks for the compliments!

I paid extra for some fancy-schmancy poly mounts that are supposed to have a positive stop built in.

Funny you mention your dad's Impala story - the EXACT same thing happened to me when I was 17 and had a 66 Fairlane. Talk about something that gets your attention! That's why I went with the motormounts I did.

[lakeroadster]

Sweet! I should have known you were way ahead of me.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Sweet! I should have known you were way ahead of me.

What!?

I don't see it as "way ahead of you", I see it as "great minds think alike".

[lakeroadster]

[Scot_Douglas]

Brake stuff:



Rear shock:


New fenders:


And - one thing I'm excited about - trading my GMC grille for a 61 Chevrolet grille:
from this:


to this:


I'm going to paint the bezels and inner grille flat white.

A HUGE THANK YOU to Leadfoot Lambert for the swap!

[ratty 46]

Oh ... this is coming right along.

If I can ask ... did you contemplate cutting that #1 tube & raising it up & around the steering shaft instead of the flex joint?? Just thought that would be a more direct shot to the rac.

Ratty 46

[Scot_Douglas]

Ratty,
I certainly did - actually, it was my plan all along - HOWEVER: I wasn't smart enough to take measurements before taking the cab off and removing the steering shaft from the vicinity. If I did as I planned (and what you suggested) - the angle would have been too large (> 30 ) and regular joints would bind. I suppose $250 worth of double-cardan joints would've sufficed, but this way is about $100 cheaper.

Hindsight being 20/20 - a set of Speedway rams horns or block huggers would allow a much cleaner steering setup. The tube from the #1 cylinder is right smack-dab where the shaft wants to be. I may address this when I have the cab off this fall to start the bodywork - cut and move the tube around a bit.

My excuse? Stainless headers that I don't have to worry about disintegrating under header wrap - all for $5 - something deep inside me wants to make them work out.

[56taskforce]

Originally Posted by Scot_Douglas

Ratty,
I certainly did - actually, it was my plan all along - HOWEVER: I wasn't smart enough to take measurements before taking the cab off and removing the steering shaft from the vicinity. If I did as I planned (and what you suggested) - the angle would have been too large (> 30 ) and regular joints would bind. I suppose $250 worth of double-cardan joints would've sufficed, but this way is about $100 cheaper.

Hindsight being 20/20 - a set of Speedway rams horns or block huggers would allow a much cleaner steering setup. The tube from the #1 cylinder is right smack-dab where the shaft wants to be. I may address this when I have the cab off this fall to start the bodywork - cut and move the tube around a bit.

My excuse? Stainless headers that I don't have to worry about disintegrating under header wrap - all for $5 - something deep inside me wants to make them work out.

Well I would say for your fist build you have taken quite an endeavor making surprisingly few mistakes for even a seasoned veteran much less a beginner. Every thing is looking great to me I would have to put it together and blow it apart a hundred times to get this far. I guess I build on hind sight

[56taskforce]

Besides nothing that can't be fixed with couple short pices of stailess tube ant a welder

[Scot_Douglas]

Crappy video, for sure, but if you pay attention...

The truck now moves on its own!

WooHoo!

[RandyDandy]

I was wondering where you purchased your fenders they seem to fit good. Truck looks good keep up the good work.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by RandyDandy

I was wondering where you purchased your fenders they seem to fit good. Truck looks good keep up the good work.

www.classicparts.com - they were $199 each and "only" $39 each to ship.