56 pro touring build

[hotrod1]

We raised the shock mounts higher than the frame so they would work taking into account the "C" notch. In doing this, you need support behind them so we ran a tube from each side shock mount to each other. This tube will be where the rear strut from the roll cage will attach to. We wanted to make it stronger and strengthen this part of the frame so we ran another tube through the frame and tied to it as well. Its starting to look like a lot of tubes but do not want any flex at all. The back part of the frame was a mess. Holes, Holes, Holes, and all twisted and unparellel. Cut them all over to straighten them out (welded them back up when straight) and filled almost everything. Will be boxing them to stop all the weakness. Mounted the fuel tank. Usually the tank bolts up from the bottom but we did it a little different. Welded a 2" angle iron above the bottom of the frame so the tank will slide in from the back. This will also strengthen the frame rails and give us a 2" place to run the boxing plates as the bottom rail of the frame is all different sizes back there.

[hotrod1]

Looked at many different wheels. The members here have been very helpful and generous with their knowledge. Was going to go with Boss but the rake from the back to the front was a little more than I wanted. I already have about 1 3/4" rake from the front wheel to the back wheel not taking into account the wheels and tires. I was looking for 18x8 and 18x10 to try and keep the rake the same. Boss has a 18x8 and a 20x10 but no 18x10. This would give me a 3" rake overall. What do you guys think about a 3" rake?

Anyways, someone was trying to blow out their Foose Nitrous rims. I had them check with Foose and Baer to make sure they would fit. They came back and said not problem. Well the front spindle-bearing hub is too long for the front wheels by 1/4". There is a lip inside this receptacle for the center cover to but up against. I dont think that I should grind this out as it may weaken the wheel. If I did, the wheel would fit. I would do spacers but the fronts are 18x8.5 and are tight and dont have any more space to spare. What is your take?

[Kim57]

Looking good hotrod1.
Kim

[hotrod1]

Ok, we had to return the Foose wheels. Just would not fit the hubs. Then looked at other options out there. Really liked the Boss 338. Found a place local that had one and brought it home. Did not fit.....Hub too long once again. Finally went down the road of my first choice, BOZE alloys Lateral "G" rim. 18x8 and 19x10 both with 0 offset. Picked them up the other day. Beautiful rims and nice craftsmanship. We decided that we want all black so they will be going to the powder coaters. Hard dilemma as they are so beautiful the way they are.

[Kim57]

Nice looking wheel.
I like the idea of all black on them.
Kim

[hotrod1]

Rims back from the powder painter. NICE. Went down and put Hankook tires on them. 235/40/18 fronts and 285/35/19 rears. My credit card is getting hot from usage.

Oh, forgot to mention that we are building a Takacs tubing bender for all the roll cage and misc stuff. It is taking time away from direct car stuff but need it for the next step.

[ratty 46]

Great choice to powder paint them black!! Looking good.

Ratty 46

[Kim57]

The wheels came out great.
Kim

[hotrod1]

Finally finished the bender. A lot of work. I think that we made every mistake that you could make in building it, but it still works great. TIG'd everything for the experience. Learned that TIG welding things together creates a lot more heat than MIG which causes things to twist and be distorted easier (at least for this thick of steel). You have to account for things a head of time before you stick it all together.

The thing is air controlled. Just connect the air compressor and press the trigger and it does all the work.

Now to learn how to bend tube and account for the material pull and stretch. I am sure that we will waste our fare share of tubing in the process.

[xpickup]

hotrod1, Nice bender. I built mine to. Mine is a little different it has a following bar, but it is nice to just pull the trigger and it starts bending. Because mine is air over hydraulic like yours. I use a digital 8 inch level (craftsman), zero it out and start bending and just check the degrees. Over bend a little because it springs back.

Shannon

[hotrod1]

xpickup, what have you bent? Any pictures or any other suggestions?

[xpickup]

hotrod1, I made a 1 5/8 die and I use .134 wall tube. I did build a double 1 5/8 chassis with Mustang 2 front susp. and air ride 4 bar. But did not get to finish because the owner lost his job. I did a roll bar in a Mustang, and a couple of trans crossmembers. I also bend 1 x 1 .125 square tubing in it. I will see if I have any pictures of the frame.

Shannon

[Kim57]

That's pretty slick.
Kim

[sgtusmc]

Bender & wheels look great man!

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

Now to learn how to bend tube and account for the material pull and stretch. I am sure that we will waste our fare share of tubing in the process.

One thing you'll find when you start bending tube, is that you really don't waste very much. If it doesn't work for the part you start out building, it will work for a part you'll make down the road. I always mark the start of my bend on the tube with a reference point on my die, so that if I need to bend it further later, I know right where to start.

[hotrod1]

Thanks for the advice. I need to make my die start marks.

Started the main hoop for the cage. Not that hard yet but I imagine the main hoop cross bar will be difficult.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looks like the truck is really comming along..

[hotrod1]

FRENCHBLUE72: It is coming along, just slowly. Dont seem to have the time that I need. Thanks for the view.

[hotrod1]

Been working on the roll cage and figuring a way to make it so the cab is removable in the future. Bent the main hoop and a cross member for it so it could fit into the hollowed out area beneath the window. Used roll bar flanges that I bought from chassis engineering. As a side note, they are suppose to come with grade 8 bolts but they put grade 5 in the package. Had to call them on it and they fixed the problem. Nice pieces.

Build the rear stays (at least part of them) and then the upper shock mount. Dirty work! Need to do the other one and continue the cage.

[Kim57]

That's pretty cool.
Kim

[hotrod1]

Ok guys, we need your opinions even though I know that this roll bar stuff is not most peoples bag. One thing that you guys do know well is METAL. Just to clarify, this is a pro touring-build. That is why we are putting in the roll cage. Anyways, got a little carried away bending the front braces to go around the dash. It has its share of bends but contours around things good. The question is, it this a foolish to have this many bends and contour as they weaken a cage too much? Or is it minimal and no big deal. Should we stay with a straight bar down from the top bend which goes to the main hoop?

[robnolimit]

Hey guys, it's lookin great! Hope to see it out soon. Keep the progress goin'

[69CST-V]

Subscribed. Looks good keep up the good progress.

[hotrod1]

I looked for information on building or mocking up a cage. Could not find too much on certain things so I thought that I would share some things as I go along.

Measure the bottom of the main hoop and determine where your hoop meets the floor. we then cut a small hole in each side of the floor to put the main hoop through. We plan on using connector plates through the cab and down to outriggers to the frame for connection. We want the cab to be removable. After fitting the main hoop, cut the bottom to the length desired and then weld the floor cutouts back in.

[hotrod1]

The back portion of the frame/chassis and cage. Overkill, but there will be minimal flex as a result.