Project: 1966 Stepside LWB

[b2948kevin]

Captain, I didn't think about the pressure problem with that fuel pump, but it will certainly be more than a carb application will stand. It was already getting more complicated than I wanted with wiring up a relay to run it, so I am scrapping the electric fuel pump in favor of a mechanical one.

I had to get the fuel pushrod and the fuel pump today. Cost me less than half of what the electric pump cost alone.

Only question I have about this: This pump has a fuel return port on it, but I don't have a return line. Can I just plug it? Also, the input is marked, but the other 2 aren't. Any idea which is the return?

[b2948kevin]

I got my parts in from LMC yesterday for the clutch linkage overhaul. I bought the new ball studs for each end of the Z-bar. If you're swapping your 6cyl for a 350 or other SBC, be sure to get the new ball stud for the engine side of the Z-bar and scrap the mount that bolts onto your 6cyl. Look at the LMC catalog to see a diagram of these parts.

Getting this stuff in allowed me to tighten up the driver's side header, so now that's on there solid.

Here are some pics though they aren't very clear. These are probably some of the less interesting pics in this thread.

[b2948kevin]

Got a new boot for the clutch fork, and a new speedo cable. The old boot was non-existant and the old speedo cable was broken.

[b2948kevin]

Oh yeah, there is one other thing . I totally sold out today and got the Edelbrock intake! Got it installed with a new gasket set and hardware.

Also, I spray painted my water pump. As you can see in previous posts, it's really rusty and ugly and I just wanted another pretty part to keep the new intake company. Those two pieces look really out of place in there . I think I will have to get some chrome valve covers somewhere down the line now.

Thanks for all the advice so far. It's been really helpful to a guy who has never done any of this stuff before. What I lack in skill and knowledge, I make up in motivation.

[smilts60]

Hey that intake and water pump look really good in there.

[Captainfab]

Lookin good

Looks like you got the Performer EPS intake? You won't need the adapter plate with that one to mount a square bore carb.

Yes you can block off the return port on the fuel upmp, but use a clamp on it to secure it. Or you could exchange the pump for an older version without the return line. One for like a '70 or older truck. I would think that engine would have a fuel pump lobe on the cam since it had a carb intake on it. Was there any resistance when you installed the fuel pump? Like you were compressing the lever on the pump. The only thing that concerns me is that it was blocked off.

[b2948kevin]

Thanks, I did get the performer eps. I plan to put a performer carb on there so I think this will be a natural fit.

Ok, I will plug the return. Any idea which one the return is? I guess I can find out the hard way. Also, there was some resistance when I put it in, I really hope there is a lobe in there. I guess I will find this out the hard way also. Tme to hook up the starter, I think.
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[Captainfab]

The smaller nipple on the pump is the return. IIRC it is sized for 1/4" fuel line. If you had a little resistance installing the pump, then there should be a pump lobe in there.

Originally Posted by b2948kevin

Thanks, I did get the performer eps. I plan to put a performer carb on there so I think this will be a natural fit.

Ok, I will plug the return. Any idea which one the return is? I guess I can find out the hard way. Also, there was some resistance when I put it in, I really hope there is a lobe in there. I guess I will find this out the hard way also. Tme to hook up the starter, I think.
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[McMurphy]

b2948kevin, Hello.

I have been watching your thread and it has been a great motivator for me.
Our stories are going to me much more similar than some of these other guys who are real pros at this... LOL. I am from Spokane, but am active duty and posted in Alaska at this time. So you bought yours in my home town, and took it across state whereas I got mine up here and will be driving it to Spokane when I retire. One in.. One out....

I have started a CarDomain thread, to mirror my 66 Tempest Custom at
http://www.cardomain.com/user/RideEd...age_id=3938455

I too am a Driveway Mechanic which means I have to ask a ton of questions.
So as of now, I am about 4 months behind you.

Thanks for the inspiration, keep up the post and good luck! Some of what you are going thru now, I did with my Tempest....

[b2948kevin]

Thanks McMurphy, I'm far from a pro at this. I wish you luck with your build, and keep coming back for updates.

[b2948kevin]

Does anyone have any idea what this fitting is on the block? Should I plug it?

[Captainfab]

That is for the oil pressure sending unit. Does your truck have gauges or lights in the dash for the oil pressure, temp, etc? Depending on what type of gauges you have, you may or may not have to remove those pieces to install the right setup for your truck. You may be able to use what was on your original engine.

[b2948kevin]

As always, thanks for the excellent advice, Captain!

I don't have pictures right now, but I have been making some major progress on this lately. I have the idiot lights in the dash, so I went and found the correct sensor from LMC and got that installed.

I also:

• Mounted up the new alternator with new brackets
• Wired up the starter
• Installed a new Accel distributor
• Bought new heater hoses
• Bought a new clutch and fan
• Painted my valve covers
• Plugged the unused intake manifold holes
• Installed the new thermostat and cover
• Ordered a rebuilt Edelbrock 1405 carb
• Reinstalled the old battery and wired it up

The only other big expense that I'm expecting (motor-wise) is the radiator.

[b2948kevin]

I am having an issue with my transmission. When I put the top plate and shifter back on the trans from inside the cab, I am pretty sure that I got it in there correctly, but I can't get into reverse at all.

Also, with the driveline disconnected, and looking right at the tranny from inside the cab with the cover removed, I can put the tranny in 1st gear, turn the motor over and I see the end turning. When I try this in 2nd, 3rd or 4th, the motor doesn't turn at all.

Did I mess up the reassembly? I put the 2 forks back on what appeared to be the only 2 races in there.

[Captainfab]

Was the trans working correctly before you removed the cover? If I'm understanding correctly, with the trans in any gear other than 1st, the engine won't turn over? If so it sounds like something is binding up. You may have to remove the cover again. Did you have both sliders in neutral when you put the cover on?

[b2948kevin]

Yeah, it was working before I pulled it apart. I am going to open it back up today and see what it looks like. It's a pain because there's not much clearance, and you have to be really creative to get it set right.

I don't remember if it was in neutral or not when I pulled it, honestly.
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[b2948kevin]

Captain, I was working on the wiring today and have a question.

What appears to be the temperature sender (thermo sender on the wiring diagram) has 2 wires to a connector that goes to the original unit. Not that I have a 350, the sender only has one wire. Should I just scrap one of the wires, or is there a special sending unit that I should get?

[b2948kevin]

Ok, a couple of more developments. I pulled the shifter and plate off the transmission, then studied it for a bit. I found that there is a lever on the right side (while seated in the driver's side looking down) that likes to move forward and backwards. I got the shifter forks in position then reached in with my fingers and manipulated that lever into the correct location. Hard to explain, but this will make sense if you ever have to do it. After that, I shifted through all gears no problem. Looks like this one is solved!

Ok, one more thing. I put the trans in every gear, let out the clutch and turned over the engine just a bit, to make sure that things were moving correctly. This worked, but when I looked back in the engine compartment, I noticed that the black wire (originates from the wiring harness plug on the firewall) that I connected to the BATT wire for the HEI distributor was so hot that it was melting the electrical tape that I just put on it. The wire is not as large as the pigtail wire that connects to the distributor, but I didn't think it would get that hot that quick. Any ideas?

[Captainfab]

I would say you need to get a temp sending unit specifically for your truck. However, I don't know if it will fit the hole in the head of your 350. The original sending unit will have 1/2" NTP threads, and the head might have 3/8" NPT threads. I don't remember just what year GM went to the smaller thread in the heads. I don't know of a smaller thread sending unit that will operate the factory gauge. A solution may be an aftermarket temp gauge under the dash.

As for the black wire. Is that the original wire that went to the coil? For the hot wire to a HEI, you need to use at least a 12 ga. wire that provides a full 12 volts. The old points ignition required only 7 volts to the coil. You may need to run a completely new wire from either the ignition switch or the fuse panel.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, I got a ton of stuff done. I got the 1/2 inch threaded temp sender with the two prongs, plugged the original hole in the head, and put the sender in a hole on the intake manifold. I got my rebuilt Edelbrock Performer 1405 in the mail and put that on there. Then I fabricated a linkage using all-thread and a piece of the original linkage from the 250 that was in there. Seems to work alright. I also got some springs and a bracked from Orielly's and put together a throttle return and bought a new radiator because my old one is no good.

Additionally, I upgraded the black wire from the firewall that feeds the HEI distributor to 12 guage, but I left the ignition on for a minute to test it out, and the wire is fine, but the coil itself heated up, and is melting the wires that go to the connector (inside the dust cover, and on top of the distributor)! I double checked that the leads are where they should be. Any ideas? The new 12 guage wire from the firewall to the distrubutor cap connector is not heating up anymore, I think it's good to go. I am getting about 11.9 volts on that wire, I tested with a meter.

[Captainfab]

Something's not right with that distributor. Is it just a standard large cap HEI? or is it one of those ESC HEI's? In other words is it the original distributor for that '86 350?

[b2948kevin]

This is the one I have:

http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...y-no-coil.html

Accel 59107

I bought it to replace my rusted original that came with the motor. I bought a coil from an auto parts store. Not sure of the specifics on it, but it wasn't anything special.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, here is a pic that I just dug up. It's from when I dropped the engine in.

Things I got done before it got dark:
Bought and installed all of the fuel connectors and blocked off the return line
Installed the heater hoses
Bought and installed the vacuum hose for the vacuum advance on the distributor
Took the distributor cap off and sanded all of the grounding points to make sure everything is grounding correctly

Sorry, no current pics as my wife is out of town with the camera.

[Captainfab]

OK, that one should be just fine. Could it be possible that something isn't connected correctly when the coil was installed? That's about all I can think of at the moment. Kind of hard to diagnose via the internet. You're certain you have the hot wire connected to the 'BAT' terminal on the cap?

Originally Posted by b2948kevin

This is the one I have:

http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...y-no-coil.html

Accel 59107

I bought it to replace my rusted original that came with the motor. I bought a coil from an auto parts store. Not sure of the specifics on it, but it wasn't anything special.

[b2948kevin]

Hey Captain, yeah, it is hard to diagnose online. I am sure that I have the hot wire going to the BATT (red wire to the coil, not the yellow or black). I pulled it out about 20 min ago and scuffed up the connectors and grounds with some sandpaper to make sure they are contacting well, then put it back in with extra care that all of the connections are in there good. I tested to see if it would heat up and after 5 min, it wasn't warm. I may have fixed it, or I fried the coil last time.

How can I test a coil? I have a multimeter.