Birth of a C10

[gofastnut]

Lookin good man!! Um, The truck, not you.

[chemlab]

lookin good man, my opinion on the rear is just use the part of the grill that says chevy even tho i know it kinda space filler, i'd just use that small part. just me but i think i'd look cool with just that.

[losthope]

Originally Posted by gofastnut

Lookin good man!! Um, The truck, not you.

thanks!! had me scared there for a minute...LOL

Originally Posted by chemlab

lookin good man, my opinion on the rear is just use the part of the grill that says chevy even tho i know it kinda space filler, i'd just use that small part. just me but i think i'd look cool with just that.

Thanks guys!


Hey Chem!! Havent heard from you in awhile you been lurking i guess...as far as the rear grill i did a post about it , and came up with this its just a mock up picture gonna have two floating grills like I have in the front , I need to get on it:

[McMurphy]

Just read your entire thread, and took a couple of notes!
Thanks for sharing some of the mods and your junkyard shopping, I know next time I am out at the bone yard I will be looking for a few fords and jeeps to cannibalize!!

Keep it up, hope your foot heals up good for you!

[chad64chevy]

trucks looking good, you very lucky to be alive after your wreck!! i got the same rear sway bar on my truck but mine is bolted to the trailer arms!! how good can you see out the side mirrors with the vent shades??

[losthope]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Just read your entire thread, and took a couple of notes!
Thanks for sharing some of the mods and your junkyard shopping, I know next time I am out at the bone yard I will be looking for a few fords and jeeps to cannibalize!!

Keep it up, hope your foot heals up good for you!

no problem! and the foots doing ok for now ! thanks

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

trucks looking good, you very lucky to be alive after your wreck!! i got the same rear sway bar on my truck but mine is bolted to the trailer arms!! how good can you see out the side mirrors with the vent shades??

I was just thinking of mounting it to the trailing arms also,because im planning on bagging the truck and it is in the way on top of the axle, and i noticed cpp aftermarket rear swaybar bolts to the trailing arms and was thinking of trying it do you have any pictures of the way yours is mounted?

Edit: i just found the in your build thread!!!

[chad64chevy]

its a lil tricky drilling the holes in the trailer arms cause the angle of the trailer arms and the sway bar is striaght! i did find that theres already a hole on each side of the frame rail so i mounted the bracket to it then only had to drill 6 holes instead of 8! and you don't need to have any spacers between the bracket and the frame! i'm going to be putting a schrader valve bag kit on the back of mine atleast for now!

[losthope]

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

i'm going to be putting a schrader valve bag kit on the back of mine atleast for now!

I had that setup on my old 65, it was cool at first but after awhile more of a PITA and wish it had springs.....this time i have some cash and some parts i collected and am going to put a manual air switch setup in ,which i can do pretty cheap....

Update: not much done on the truck today i put up a shed a couple weeks ago and moved my crap out of my storage unit to the shed...found the box with the air ride parts and started building my tank setup:

[chemlab]

Hey Chem!! Havent heard from you in awhile you been lurking i guess...as far as the rear grill i did a post about it , and came up with this its just a mock up picture gonna have two floating grills like I have in the front , I need to get on it:

ya man, haven't been on much lately ... working a lot, what lil free time i have i spend trying to get these last few bugs fixed so i can get mine inspected and on the road. (and sleep somewhere in what time left) then its back on to the '50

[losthope]

Well today i mounted my air tank , i was going to just run it in the bed but changed my mind so i tore the tank apart again and mounted it under the bed in the forward fender on the drivers side:


I read a post on manual paddle switch valves on another car forum and most paddle switch valves are made for 1/4" tubing and a guy installed 1/2" supply lines and stepped it down right at the switchs and said that it makes a difference in the speed of you bags compared to running all 1/4" tubing...I was in luck i had traded a 700r4 that needed a rebuild for some 1/2 tubing and check valves and fittings a couple years ago ....

so i ran two 1/2" lines to the cab 1 line for front switchs and 1 line for rear switchs, I had some big rubber fuel line I picked up some time ago for something i cant remember for what now...slide it over the tubing where ever i secured it to the truck or where ever i thought it might rub on metal:


I needed to mount the pump somewhere so i had some metal angle brackets for a old shelving unit and a aluminum sign i found when tearing down a building(I work for a Demolition company) ...


the angles fit perfect on the frame so i cut a section of sign and bolted it together to make a pump stand :


sprayed it with some black paint and mounted the pump used a old rubber type mouse pad and cut it to make rubber pads for where the tank mounts to bed sills and where pump mounts to the stand to cut down on vibration and noise :

wired it up and tested the pump it still works after sitting in storage for a year!! So used stuff i already had and todays project didnt cost me anything!!



Right now i just got everything zip tied up need to buy some plastic strapping ,and need to get everything else but one step closer to being bagged......

[McMurphy]

Your driveway inginuity is truely inspiring man!
Because I read your build, I remembered to snag the front sway bar off my donor rig, along with the drop down brackets to accomodate the power steering gearbox!

I am really digging on your build, keep it up!

[gofastnut]

Hey Timmy,
If nothin else, get an air horn and connect it til you get the bags. Then you can scare the cr@p outta kids on the sidewalk!

Jeff

[losthope]

well im waiting on a set of bags,fittings,and manual paddle switch valves to come in the mail, but i did pick up a brand new set of bags for $50 from a friend and I also picked up a set of front and rear bag brackets (rear brackets are just plates not pictured)for $120 locally.
so i went to the NAPA warehouse were they have big truck brake parts,and picked up 50 feet of 1/4 air line, and most of my fittings and got the rear bags started:


im relocating the rear camero sway bar and also the rear shocks......I choose to do what "frizzle fry" did with his rear shocks swapping and drilling holes so they mount behind the rear axle now:


Bags= $150
switch/valves=$80
air line and fittings=$100
front and rear bag brackets=$120
random fittings of ebay=$20
grade #8 bolts= $20
tank and compresser= already had!

works out to be around $500 bag setup!!

[Chiefjrock]

I gotta say ~ I like the sound of $500 for bags!! Ya know...whenever you care to take a trip down to SD; my truck would love to meet you! haha
Great job...looks awesome and very inspirational!

[pdxhall]

I did Frizzles shock relocation on my 66, also. It turned out great and very easy to do.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

I did Frizzles shock relocation on my 66, also. It turned out great and very easy to do.

I normally search, but this time I'll just ask;

What is the advantage of relocating the shocks?
My 65 is on a 62 Frame and my shocks are already behind the axle:

[losthope]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I normally search, but this time I'll just ask;

What is the advantage of relocating the shocks?
My 65 is on a 62 Frame and my shocks are already behind the axle:

In my case it is moving them away from the bags so there is no chance they will rub on them and also when lowering these trucks the stock location makes the shocks at a extreme angle where they dont work so need to relocate them when lowering
Posted via Mobile Device

[pdxhall]

I agree with losthope but I didn't have to get mine out of the way of bags. By locating them further out, it is supposed to make handling better, also. I can't vouch for that yet but Frizzle claimed it made a big difference on his truck.

[LostMy65]

Thanks guys.
That makes sense.
Especially the point that 'the stock location makes the shocks at an extreme angle when lowering'

[dantimdad]

anyone got a link to the shock relocation thread?

thanks,
dantimdad

[losthope]

Originally Posted by dantimdad

anyone got a link to the shock relocation thread?

thanks,
dantimdad

theres a number of different ways to relocate the shocks use the search function and type "lowering shocks" and surf through some of the posts and you could find different ways...

but i liked the way "frizzle fry" did his the best heres a post with pictures of how its done:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...owering+shocks

[losthope]

Well im still waiting on the paddle switch valves and the front air bags to show up via UPS, so i decided to try and get the rear end buttoned up....

I still have a 1 1/2" more before the rear end bottoms out in the frame c-notch but the pumpkin is hitting the bed floor, and i dont want to cut a hole in the bed because i still want to use it as a working truck to haul stuff, so when i redo the bed wood im going to raise the bed floor up a 1 1/2" so the pumpkin and the axle tube bottoms out all at the same time....I planned ahead that i will add 1 1/2" lowering blocks later on down the road and planned that into the shock relocation......

First i made some brackets to relocate the rear shocks higher then the frame and the future blocks so when aired out the shocks dont bottom out,i used the front shocks on the back since they are short shocks.....


heres the shocks with the new higher mounts and the stock lower mounts drilled and swapped backwards with it aired out with travel left in the shock before they bottom out....


bought this adjustable trac bar before i planned on bagging the truck and this doesnt quite do the job, so i plan on making this into a longer bar that mounts to the trailing arm giving less movement of the rear end when going from aired out to full air...


Then i relocated the carrier bearing, here you can see when aired out the drivline is at a extreme angle:


being cheap and not wanting to buy a new aftermarket drop cross member,i drilled out the riviets that hold the carrier bearing mount and flipped it over....

i took the difference from when the rearend is aired out and and when it is at full air and put the rear end at the middle of those two and drilled and mounted the mount for the carrier bearing with the drivline straight.....

here it is aired out with the drivline angled up slightly:

And dont worry about those air lines that is 1/4 line inside of 1/2 line and im going to put that inside rubber hose...just waiting on it to show up, it wont be rubbing on anything...and thats why the plastic clamps are loose in this picture...

when full air it is angled down slightly..Ive had three of these pinch welded carrier bearings come apart on my old 65, and finally had my buddy weld them together better and never had a problem again so ill have him do that to these one ,instead of buying one of those billet aluminum $100 replacements..

still have to relocate the rear camero swaybar still.......

untill next time!!

[chemlab]

ya, i'm jealous

[losthope]

while still waiting on air ride parts to show up i decided to do something that didnt require crawling around under the truck on the concrete.....I had bought a truck radio for $20 and decided to put it in....i had a butt ugly black plastic cd player holder mounted to the bottom of the dash and didnt want to have a radio in the dash and a cd player under.....

So the card board glove box insert was long gone....... i found a couple scrap pieces of sheet metal out back and i took some measurements and bent and riveted a panel to fit in the glove box opening to hold the cd player:


threw some paint on it and installed it....cd player fits nice nd the door closes,hot glued a magnet to the back of the cd player remote and stuck it to the panel and still have room for my reg. and insurance paper work, and some fuses:


found the chrome chevy glove box emblem in a box of stuff i pulled off the 65 after the wreck and put that on. Its a little scratched up from the wreck but will match the rest of the truck.....need to get a new latch for the door:


put the radio in the dash it is a little smaller then the opening but think thats because its not a 66 push button radio, Its amazing how mush better it looks with a radio then a square hole in the dash:


Still need to rewire the cd player and the radio(see if it even works at all) need to sand down the dash and the glove box panel i just made and repaint everything but for now it is what it is, hopefully later in life ill have a garage that i can tear the whole truck down and redo everything......but for now its a low buck build!

[A.T. RockDriller]

Originally Posted by losthope

while still waiting on air ride parts to show up i decided to do something that didnt require crawling around under the truck on the concrete.....I had bought a truck radio for $20 and decided to put it in....i had a butt ugly black plastic cd player holder mounted to the bottom of the dash and didnt want to have a radio in the dash and a cd player under.....

So the card board glove box insert was long gone....... i found a couple scrap pieces of sheet metal out back and i took some measurements and bent and riveted a panel to fit in the glove box opening to hold the cd player:


threw some paint on it and installed it....cd player fits nice nd the door closes,hot glued a magnet to the back of the cd player remote and stuck it to the panel and still have room for my reg. and insurance paper work, and some fuses:


found the chrome chevy glove box emblem in a box of stuff i pulled off the 65 after the wreck and put that on. Its a little scratched up from the wreck but will match the rest of the truck.....need to get a new latch for the door:


put the radio in the dash it is a little smaller then the opening but think thats because its not a 66 push button radio, Its amazing how mush better it looks with a radio then a square hole in the dash:


Still need to rewire the cd player and the radio(see if it even works at all) need to sand down the dash and the glove box panel i just made and repaint everything but for now it is what it is, hopefully later in life ill have a garage that i can tear the whole truck down and redo everything......but for now its a low buck build!

Nice job, Timmy