What Did You Do With Your Truck Today ?

[Dan in Pasadena]

PureC4, I did a little research on the TCI website and it says their rear spring kit gives 4" of drop. That means with his 4" blocks he's got a static drop of 8"!! I'm wondering how close the top of his differential comes to hitting his bed floor? Looks like his floor is raised the thickness of a 2x4 (1-1/2") or more, so maybe its not an issue for him. BUT, how is his front dropped by at least 8" or more?

Inquiring minds (nosy-a$$ guys on this website) want to know!

[ScottyB]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Looked through all your photos and I have to say I thought the truck looked pretty good before you did anything! Now it just looks better. A couple more questions if you don't mind:

The Mustang tank has a collet or ring type mount for the sender (MOst old Ford tanks do so I assume its the same) but the Chevy sender has the five bolt holes to mount it so how'd you get these two to "marry up"? Can you post a close up photo? Are the TCI rear springs "lowering springs"? If so, how many inches and then you added a lowering block also? Any issues with hitting, rubbing, anything? How is the front lowered, I saw no pic's.

I used the Mustang tank ring for fuel pickup only. I took the float off of it. For the gas gauge I use the stock chevy sender. By crazy luck the Mustang tank already had a circular rib in it on the top of the tank in one corner (see pic below). I used a hole saw to drill the tank then used the stock chevy rubber gasket and self tapping screws to mount it. I measured the depth of the mustang tank and bent the stock chevy sender arm in an 'S' shape by wrapping in half way around a large deep well socket in different directions until the float arm was shortened to the correct swing distance to match the mustang tank.



I believe the TCI springs are lowering but yes I then added 4" blocks. There has been no rubbing or hitting at all. The fenders are 2" wider than stock and those 295/45/20 tires have a really stiff sidewall since they are for heavy SUVs. One thing to note is I have a 54 bed mounted on a 51 frame so the frame has the humps in it where it goes over the rear end. Between the factory humps and the C notch kit there was plenty of clearance. My only complaint about the springs is that they move the rear back some but not far enough to center the wheel in the opening so I have some 1/2" thick, 1" offset plates on it for now until I can get the springs re-drilled.

[ScottyB]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

PureC4, I did a little research on the TCI website and it says their rear spring kit gives 4" of drop. That means with his 4" blocks he's got a static drop of 8"!! I'm wondering how close the top of his differential comes to hitting his bed floor? Looks like his floor is raised the thickness of a 2x4 (1-1/2") or more, so maybe its not an issue for him. BUT, how is his front dropped by at least 8" or more?

Inquiring minds (nosy-a$$ guys on this website) want to know!

You are right on, I laid 2x4s on their sides across the bed side flanges then put 3/4" plywood on top of that. The 2x4s provided just enough lift to clear the '51 frame humps when using the '54 bed sides (they are taller so the bed floor is actually lower in a '54). I will see if I can take a picture of the clearance at ride height.

As for the front... Not real proud there but its all I could do for now. It has a drop straight axle with only 3 of the original leafs still in place. As you can imagine there is not a lot of suspension travel but our roads are pretty good here in Alabama. I have a stabilizer shock mounted to the tie rod so it tracks the road well when its smooth. Plan is to install a C4 front suspension on the stock frame this winter.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ScottyB

I used the Mustang tank ring for fuel pickup only. I took the float off of it. For the gas gauge I use the stock chevy sender. By crazy luck the Mustang tank already had a circular rib in it on the top of the tank in one corner (see pic below). I used a hole saw to drill the tank then used the stock chevy rubber gasket and self tapping screws to mount it. I measured the depth of the mustang tank and bent the stock chevy sender arm in an 'S' shape by wrapping in half way around a large deep well socket in different directions until the float arm was shortened to the correct swing distance to match the mustang tank.

A little "igenuity-as-the-mother-of-invention, huh? VERY smart. I was about to make a wisecrack about "redneck" engineering but then I realized my Mexi-gineering (I'm latino) would have been to do it the exact same way
Personally, when I find a way to make something work like you did and then it ACTUALLY DOES work, I feel proud as a new papa!
Oh and PS: If ALL '70 Mustang tanks come with that place to install the Chevy sender that's a real good thing to know. Is yours a junkyard find tank? If so, its gotta be cheaper than all the aftermarket ones out there. I wonder if one of those would fit in my '55's frame?

Originally Posted by ScottyB

...My only complaint about the springs is that they move the rear back some but not far enough to center the wheel in the opening so I have some 1/2" thick, 1" offset plates on it for now until I can get the springs re-drilled.

Would all this be rectified with the correct year bed? Do you prefer the flat-topped '54 bed over the earlier ones or did the truck come with it? I'm a '55.2 guy so I don't know all that much about the '47-'54's but are the fenders wider because of the year bed or are you running some kind of wider aftermarket fenders? Sorry for all the questions.

[ScottyB]

I got the tank off of ebay for $150 shipped with fuel pickup and filler hose. Its the bigger 22 gallon tank. I can get the dimensions for you if you would like.

When I bought the truck it did already have a 54 bed but it was in bad shape. I stuck with the 54 sides when I replaced them because I couldn't find a reasonably priced cover solution for the older angled top sides and I like the look anyway. The hinged hard covers are big $. The correct bed would have the floor supports already above the frame. Call me psycho I guess because I used the older tail lights...

I went with the aftermarket wider fenders and matching running boards so I could fit the bigger tires without having to put a wheel tub in the bed. Again, that is a personal choice. The bigger fenders give the truck a muscular look too.

[Dan in Pasadena]

ScottyB, I really like your choices, ESPECIALLY the older small tail lights. Kudos for keeping them. I think the wider fender & matching running boards are a great idea (tho I'd guess spendy) rather than tubbing.

Member "Chuckdriver" has a generic tank in his '57 from Tanks, Inc I'm likely to go with cause it's fairly cheap and has the advantage that I've seen how well it worked for him. Now I just need a few extra hundreds to pull it off!
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[hb32]

Managed to get the clutch assy and 5 speed bolted in.

[xaircav]

I sanded, primed and installed the swap meet Fulton Visor I got for my '53 five window. Also got some 283 fender emblems from Hubbards to advertise the '62 283 I'm running. The visor has the original emblems on the braces that says
"Fulton Sunshade Company, Milwaukee Wisconsin"

[Purec4]

Picked up a T-5 for 85.00 and took an hour trip in mountains to an old fashion Junk Yard and pulled thebrake and clutch pedal assembly out of an
S10 to hopefully use in the truck. Pedals, clutch cyl, master cyl, and booster, $40.00 not bad I think... Now to finish the floor and get to hanging this stuff.

[Daze57]

xaircav
very cool on the visor - ya got any picts ?

[waybad]

Originally Posted by hb32

Thanks and had thought of using a internal wrenching bolt but had the grade 8`s from another project at hand. When I got the trans, I pullled 2 on the same day, one had torx drive bolts, which I suspect was the fix from GM which won`t work in our case as they are metric, and the other was missing that bolt. I ground down a 3/4 wrench for clearance and appears to have solved that issue. Found out on removal about the lower bolts and will install with the nut on the trans side so should have no issues with the clearance.
I hope to have it all back together shortly and then need to find a drive shaft.
What did you use?

hey hb32 ,, you need to do this for your shifter..(make it a short throw)
It works great,, did it to mine..
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/shifter/index.html

[alden]

Replaced a power steering hose, still have a small leak from somewhere but the bulk of the leak was definitely from that hose.

Got the bulk of the bed wood cut to size and mocked up. I'm one 1x8x8 short so I'll have to make another run to Lowes later this week but I'm liking how it looks so far. I need to get the inner fenders widened by about 2 inches before I can mount those but I threw them on just to get an idea of what it will look like.



I'm going to go with a clear sealer, I really like the light wood/dark truck contrast.

[Johnny49]

My good friend and wiring guy Jim came over and we got all the lights and the horn working. Need a new hi-lo beam switch, which of course is an easy fix. Now all we need is the two brake drums (one front, one rear) and we'll be able to button up the brake system and take 'er down the road!

[Coupeguy2001]

bought the metal to make plates to move the engine back 2 inches. made a template to mark the holes.

[hb32]

Originally Posted by waybad

hey hb32 ,, you need to do this for your shifter..(make it a short throw)
It works great,, did it to mine..
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/shifter/index.html

Thanks and will add it to the list of things to do. Did you use the S10 shifter handle or the stock handle?

[OrrieG]

Prepped grille and bumpers for priming, waiting on temps to rise. Also scratched my head about gas door location.

[waybad]

Originally Posted by hb32

Thanks and will add it to the list of things to do. Did you use the S10 shifter handle or the stock handle?

I used the bottom part after it was straitened, then I made the
upper part out of 5/8 stainless tubing(free) with a 90 at
the top. fits right in my hand even though it is almost as tall
as the dash,,, made my 2ft shifter throw become about a 10"
throw between gears.. looks funny with a tall shifter but it works great!
good luck

[mknittle]

I worked on the rear suspension cross member

[Daze57]

Orrie G
on your truck -what about plummin; to the rear license plate ? do one of them fold down plates like the cars had in thr late 70;a and 80;s

juss my 2 centavos

[LDO]

I was supposed to install 4 new shocks and that was it! But, one thing led to another and I ended up lowering the front of my truck by removing a few leafs. Here's a before, an after, and a side shot of the finished project.

Ride quality has not changed; still rides like a 54 year old truck and I'm good with that.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by LDO

I was supposed to install 4 new shocks and that was it! But, one thing led to another and I ended up lowering the front of my truck by removing a few leafs. Here's a before, an after, and a side shot of the finished project.

Ride quality has not changed; still rides like a 54 year old truck and I'm good with that.

Looks good!

[FFredo]

While I didn't do it today, last week I put on new chrome trim rings on my wheels and added new chrome outside review mirrors..

I know I know, pics to follow

[ZR2RICK]

Finished the pass. side airbag cut out and remounted the spindles/wheels, I set her on the ground aired out and the crossmember just sits on the ground, so I am going to need a 2" taller bag cup. this is fun! Also centered the engine/trans and tacked the frame mounts to the crossmember.

[hb32]

Picked up an S10 drive shaft, had it shortened and installed it this afternoon. Took it out for a couple of test drives around the block and shifts nice plus it is a lot quieter then the old SM420.

[hb32]

Originally Posted by waybad

I used the bottom part after it was straitened, then I made the
upper part out of 5/8 stainless tubing(free) with a 90 at
the top. fits right in my hand even though it is almost as tall
as the dash,,, made my 2ft shifter throw become about a 10"
throw between gears.. looks funny with a tall shifter but it works great!
good luck

Thanks for the info and link. I managed to get it out for a test drive and will definitely be shortening the throw in the next couple of days.