67-72 Electric speedo

[lts70]

Money sent for two speedo kits

[gringoloco]

I'd like to get one of these, if they're still available.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 1970 C10 MJW

bump for an update, also curious what kind of metal you used for the speedo backer plate

I haven't worked on my truck much lately, just too cold, and I need it to be done before I can do the detailed write up, but I will do it. I did hook the speedo I just made for my beater truck up to my car, an '03 Sunfire, and put about 50 miles on it, and it's dead accurate up to at least 85 MPH, with the exception of between 0 and 5 MPH, as the needle needed to be put on at around the 2 MPH mark, but at the angle it's mounted in the truck, it looks like the needle is at 0 when stopped.

The metal is just 18-20 gauge sheet metal.

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

I apologize if I've missed this: how did you wire this to the truck's harness? Did you cut the male end off of the original underdash harness? I would prefer to leave the original harness in tact with the male plug that goes into the factory cluster. Is this possible?
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Yes, I cut the male end off of the truck harness. I tried using part of the printed circuit at first, but it wasn't looking like it would be a very reliable way of wiring it. Also, I couldn't find a female plug that would plug into the factory harness. And since you'll have to add some wires for the speedometer (and in my case, a check engine light too) anyway, I just went to the junkyard and found a connector assembly and wired it in on both sides so it does unplug and you can remove it easily. It's wired just like you would wire any aftermarket guages.

Originally Posted by lts70

Money sent for two speedo kits

PM sent

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I'd like to get one of these, if they're still available.

I have 3 left, I'll send you a PM.

[Daaaanz67]

I also want one
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[wgeyer88]

Eric,

Are you still planning on doing a tutorial on this? I've been putting my cluster on hold until I see more details on how it's done. Don't want to mess up the cluster and have to start all over again... I think I've got everything figured out except mounting plate in the rear.

Thanks
Will

[ls1nova71]

Yes, I still plan on doing a more detailed write up, but have to find the time. The weather around here has been completely stupid, and I haven't been in the garage as much as usual.

But if you think you have it figured out, just ask any questions on whatever you may not be clear on, and I can answer them. What is it you're unsure about on the mounting plate?

[eagleuh1]

Eric, I'll take one of those kits too. I'll get to the post office today for the check. PM you on the address. Thanks. Jim

[cjohnson6772]

How about a close up pic of the back where it wires into the new speedo please. Thank you in advance.
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[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

How about a close up pic of the back where it wires into the new speedo please. Thank you in advance.
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Sure thing. There are 7 pins on the back of the circuit board, but you'll only use 3. They are labled on the board, IGN for ignition power, GND for ground, and SPD for the speedometer input to the gauge. In the pic, the pink is ignition, black is ground and green is speedo input. Also, when you take the original printed circuit off the back of the cluster, if you save a few of the square push on connectors that the gauges hook to, you can solder a wire directly on to them and then the wire will just push on and will be a good connection without having to solder straight to the circuit board.

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Sure thing. There are 7 pins on the back of the circuit board, but you'll only use 3. They are labled on the board, IGN for ignition power, GND for ground, and SPD for the speedometer input to the gauge. In the pic, the pink is ignition, black is ground and green is speedo input. Also, when you take the original printed circuit off the back of the cluster, if you save a few of the square push on connectors that the gauges hook to, you can solder a wire directly on to them and then the wire will just push on and will be a good connection without having to solder straight to the circuit board.

EXACTLY the information I was looking for! Thank you. This may be a silly question but when I go to put the needle back on the gauge how will I know where to reinstall it? Should I just reinstall at 0? Will the gauge pre-sweep and fix itself? Do I have to put it back on exactly where I removed it?
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[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

EXACTLY the information I was looking for! Thank you. This may be a silly question but when I go to put the needle back on the gauge how will I know where to reinstall it? Should I just reinstall at 0? Will the gauge pre-sweep and fix itself? Do I have to put it back on exactly where I removed it?
Posted via Mobile Device

That's not a silly question at all. It DOES matter where you put the needle. If you put it on in the wrong spot, the speedo will be off by that much through the whole range. You can't put it back on where you took it off since on the 72 0 MPH is lower than the S-10, so if you put it back on where you took it off it would be at roughly the 10 MPH mark. When you go to put the needle back on, you need to power the speedo up, this will put the driver at the 0 MPH mark. Then put the needle on. It may take a couple of tries, as they tend to want to move when pressing it on. If you have a GPS, you could go for a drive and make sure it's in the right spot (provided your tune is correct). I hooked mine up to my car (03 Sunfire) through the cruise control plug and made sure it was accurate that way. On mine, the needle when the truck is stopped, is actually at about the 2 MPH mark, but it's not noticeable because of the angle you view the speedo.

[eagleuh1]

Finally got the time and stamps to send the money order. Had to get layed off to do it, but... started right back to work as soon as I got home, so no more time to work on the truck again. But at least I'm home. Thanks again. Jim. Money sent Saturday.

[eagleuh1]

Thanks Eric, got the kit in the mail last night. Now gotta get some descent weather and a day off at the same time to find me a donor speedo at the yards. Jim

[ls1nova71]

Ok guys, here's the long over due 'how-to' write up. This is going to take a while to do since I can't type, and making the parts and photographing the steps then putting it all on here is time consuming. So here's the first installment.

First up is the tools I used to do all this.



This is what you'll start with.



Cut out the template and trace it on to a piece of 22 gauge sheet metal.



Cut it out.



Cut out the middle, I did this with a cut off wheel and a die grinder.



Should look like this.



Cut out the holes and drill the 3 small mounting holes.



Make sure the speedo fits it, you may have to do some trimming for a nice fit.



Back side



Put the template in the back tin and mark what needs to be cut out.





Cut it out.

[ls1nova71]

Next we'll move on to the face. I can't stress enough here how important it is to TAKE YOUR TIME, and make sure it's positioned correctly.

Start by pulling the whole S-10 face off the clear plastic part, it comes off easily.



Then cut out the center hole in the speedo decal, I use an X-Acto knife for this.



Center the decal on the S-10 face, on the back side center the small hole in the larger hole.



Then make a mark at the 50mph mark on the S-10 face, and the 60mph on the new decal, and tape it on so it doesn't move.



Make sure it's centered side to side also, and tape the top as shown.





With it taped in position, carefully flip it up, and peel just the backing off the sticker. Make sure that the S-10 face is CLEAN, any dirt under the sticker will leave bumps in it, you don't want that.



Then starting at the top and working your way down, slowly press it on, working out any bubbles as you go. Don't try to put the whole sticker on at once.



Once it's on, carefully remove the backing, Don't pull straight up as that will lift the sticker, pull back on it's self, flush with the face. Go slow!



Once off it should look like this, notice it's centered in the old numbers on the old face.



Using a BRAND NEW X-Acto knife blade, carefully cut out just the odometer holes, DO NOT cut the center hole out any more. Just the weight of the blade should be enough, any more pressure and you run the risk of cutting into the S-10 face. I didn't have a new blade, so in the pics it isn't done yet, but this gives you an idea.



Then just cut out the speedometer face.



Put it on the clear plastic part and mark where it needs to be cut.



Then cut the clear plastic part, it should look like this when done.



This is all I have at the moment, in the next couple of days I'll be posting more.

[eagleuh1]

Thanks for the time and effort to show us how its done. Hope to get to mine soon. Jim

[FL71StepSide]

So... are there anymore kits available? I just found this thread.

Nice looking Install and great idea!

I have a 71 I'm doing a LQ9/4L60E swap into that could really use this mod!

-Brent

[1970 C10 MJW]

eric looks good so far and I like all the pics they help alot, one question how do you cut the clear plastic face that you showed in the last two pics? i figure tin snips or scissors would probably crack/break it?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by eagleuh1

Thanks for the time and effort to show us how its done. Hope to get to mine soon. Jim

Not a problem. I hope it helps everybody get their's done.

Originally Posted by FL71StepSide

So... are there anymore kits available? I just found this thread.

Nice looking Install and great idea!

I have a 71 I'm doing a LQ9/4L60E swap into that could really use this mod!

-Brent

I don't have any more at this time, but if there is enough interest after I get the 'how to' done, and I start seeing some that other's have finished I can see about having some more printed. I think it is, but just want to make sure that this is a feasible mod that the average guy can do first.

Originally Posted by 1970 C10 MJW

eric looks good so far and I like all the pics they help alot, one question how do you cut the clear plastic face that you showed in the last two pics? i figure tin snips or scissors would probably crack/break it?

I cut it out with a cut off wheel and sanded the edges smooth with a DA sander. You're right, tin snips would probably be hard to use and would likely crack it.

[ls1nova71]

Getting back to the mounting part, trim the mounting plate so it fits nicely in the back tin.



On the back side, mark where the dash light hole needs to be cut out.



Then cut it out, should look something like this.



I usually tack weld this piece to the back tin, but if you don't have access to one, you can screw it on with some sheet metal screws. It may actually help to screw it first even if you plan on welding it since there will be some trial and error fitting required to get the speedo centered in the opening. Just drill the holes in the back tin a little bigger than the holes in the mounting plate so you can move it around.

Also in this pic, you can see where the new hole needs to be drilled for the other speedo light that got removed by the trip reset knob.





Put the speedo and the clear plastic part on the mounting plate and screw it back on with the 3 original screws.





With it screwed to the back tin it will look like so.



Then you'll need to just kind of eyeball where the trip reset needs to come through the inner tin. You won't get it right on the first try, but it doesn't matter since it needs to be a little over sized anyway. Once you get the hole drilled, make sure that the reset button isn't rubbing the inner tin at all, it needs to be loose in the hole. Then make sure that the speedo is centered in the hole side to side.



Now would be a good time to put the gas gauge back in and make sure that the center of the speedo is level with the center of the gas gauge. The speedo is NOT centered top to bottom, it's closer to the bottom, but by comparing it to the gas gauge you'll see what I mean.

In the right spot.



Now mark around the reset with some tape, making sure that the reset isn't binding or rubbing on the inner tin.



With the hole marked exactly where it needs to be with the tape...



Now put the lens in the bezel and put the tin back in.



Mark the center of the hole on the lens.



Remove the lens and drill the hole. Try to use a drill bit the same size as the reset knob. It will be drilled out bigger later, but for now needs to be small, it's going to help with drilling the hole in the bezel later on.



Once drilled.



Now we'll work on the lens. Start by marking the mph, 0, 50, and 100 marks with a sharpie on the OUTSIDE of the lens.



Then using some non-abrasive, silicone free polishing compound, start rubbing the numbers off the inside of the lens. It takes a little elbow grease, but it's not all that hard.



Continue rubbing all the numbers until the lens is completley clear. Now is a good time to make sure the inside of the lens is nicely polished since you won't want to polish it after you've painted the numbers.



This is all I have for tonight. Stay tuned for the painting of the lens next....

[RatRod68]

Scribed. Sorry for the PM eric, prolly should have read all the pages first

[ChevyCruizer]

Put me down for 1. I can prepay, don't care if it takes a month or two.

PM me when ready to order. I get lost in all of the threads i read.

Thanks, John

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

I don't have any more at this time, but if there is enough interest after I get the 'how to' done, and I start seeing some that other's have finished I can see about having some more printed. I think it is, but just want to make sure that this is a feasible mod that the average guy can do first.

[cjohnson6772]

What is the purpose of sticking the new decal to the old (S10) gauge face? Why not stick the new decal directly to the clear plastic?

[ChevyCruizer]

If im following you (decal on C10 clear plastic) then the decal would be in front of the needls. The depth would be off and you wouldnt even see the speedo needle.

Some of his pictures go out of order, like he shows the decal being applied to the S10 clear plastic and then a couple pictures later the S10 speedo is temp installed and there is no decal on it. This is prob so that it doesnt get scratched up while he is working on it. That might be what is confusing you.

Or maybe you mean, why is it stuck to the old black S10 guage instead of the clear S10 guage part, well I think this is to keep everything aligned properly.

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

What is the purpose of sticking the new decal to the old (S10) gauge face? Why not stick the new decal directly to the clear plastic?

Great how to thread ls1nova71!

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by ChevyCruizer

If im following you (decal on C10 clear plastic) then the decal would be in front of the needls. The depth would be off and you wouldnt even see the speedo needle.

Some of his pictures go out of order, like he shows the decal being applied to the S10 clear plastic and then a couple pictures later the S10 speedo is temp installed and there is no decal on it. This is prob so that it doesnt get scratched up while he is working on it. That might be what is confusing you.

Or maybe you mean, why is it stuck to the old black S10 guage instead of the clear S10 guage part, well I think this is to keep everything aligned properly.




Great how to thread ls1nova71!

no i'm saying put the decal on the clear s10 plastic that mounts the new speedo...
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