1989 Suburban "V Rig" Gets Cummins Power

[1985-GMC]

Looks good to me!

[v-man]

"This truck is really spooling my Turbo"

[Dieselwrencher]

Making good progress on the beast. The wiring is almost done. Just have to install and wire a controller for the grid heaters, finish the aftermarket gauge wiring, and then hook up the grid heaters.

External Voltage Regulater


Running battery cables and such



Trans cooler mounted and lines ran and hooked up. I'm thinking about making a shield/air collector to help protect the cooler and feed it plenty of air. There wasn't much room to mount this thing any other way without putting it under the body. I don't like doing that unless it's a bigger unit with self contained fans.


Uh oh? Smoke?





I don't think the GM oil pressure gauge likes being pushed past 60psi.

[Mattman2010]

Looking good bud!
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[v-man]

I think bambi's going to get planted in that cooler?

[v-man]

12 inches of snow and a 740 volvo suck! I think it needs a conversion

[arrover]

Great job! Cool build. Thanks for the video.

[ryanroo]

Dude, you forgot to hook up the air filter!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by v-man

I think bambi's going to get planted in that cooler?

We'll make a gaurd for it.

Originally Posted by v-man

12 inches of snow and a 740 volvo suck! I think it needs a conversion

I'm out on that deal.

Originally Posted by arrover

Great job! Cool build. Thanks for the video.

Thanks, it is turning out pretty sweet!

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Dude, you forgot to hook up the air filter!

I usually leave the air filter off to ensure a turbo that's been sitting a while is spinning, not stuck, and I leave the intercooler outlet pipe off on a new start up just in case there are any issues. You can shut them off mechanically with ease this way. IE, cover the inlet of the engine and stop air flow in.

[ryanroo]

runaways are more interesting to watch on video man!

[v-man]

hows it looking?

[Dieselwrencher]

Still plugging away on this truck. Having issues getting the correct fan hub, but I finally got one. I'm also having issues with fan clutch to radiator clearance. I'm thinking that the broken inner structure of the LH fender gave the truck extra clearance when I mocked it all up. Now I'm moving the radiator down trying to get some more clearance. Right now I've got it at 5/16" or maybe a little more than that.



The parts from Ballistic showed up so I can make a drag link.

First Idea


Second Idea


What I came up with



Removed steering arm and had to drill the tie rod hole to 1" and weld this adapter in.



Final result, and it works great.



I painted the a/c brackets, intercooler piping, fan hub and pulley.



I ordered a new yoke for the rear end and will be installing it in the morning. I also installed the glow plug controller for the grid heaters. I have it wired up, now just have to make a power supply cable and put it on it. Rear brakes and some wiring are next. I hope to be test driving it Saturday afternoon.

[1985-GMC]

Looks good, glad to see you got that all worked out!

[6BT 56]

Hey this a real cool build . What can you tell me abt that external voltage regulator? I will be running into these issues Also the grid heater. Any reason I cant just wire them up to a ford style starter sol and a momentary switch under the dash?. Oh ya the advancing of the pump timing ??? Can you tell me a bit abt that as well.

Keep up the great work.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Hey this a real cool build . What can you tell me abt that external voltage regulator? I will be running into these issues Also the grid heater. Any reason I cant just wire them up to a ford style starter sol and a momentary switch under the dash?. Oh ya the advancing of the pump timing ??? Can you tell me a bit abt that as well.

Keep up the great work.

This external regulater came from an early dodge pick up. It's a Napa ECH VR38 and the wire connector is ECH VRC38. I put a schematic up for it too.

What's important is that the switched positive is at the top of triangle, the other two terminals that go to the alt can be traded. The stock wires have to be disconnected and taped. Use a good ground.
Any 12v regulator will work, all have the same triangular plug setup.

Yes, you can do that for your grid heaters. I have two solenoids on mine. One sol per grid heater element, and I use a toggle switch. (A push button switch is way better) On this truck I used a 7.3 IDI glow plug controller which has a timer in it.

Timing, loosen your injection lines, the afc boost reference line, and the 3 bolts that secure the IP to the gear housing. Rotate the IP as close to the cylinder head as you can and retighten everything. This should get you to around 14-15* advanced and they run really well here.

[Dieselwrencher]

I've been hitting this thing hard trying to get it knocked out! This weekend I got the engine and trans moved back to get more clearance in between the radiator and fan.



I modified the stock dodge lower radiator hose and installed it. Installed the RH CAC pipe after I painted it, and installed the block heater cord. Installed the oil fill valve cover and cut a hole in the top plate to access it.



Got the rear axle centered under the truck, set pinion angle, welded spring perches to axle, and installed shock mounting brackets on the axle tubes. I also cleaned and inspected rear hub bearings and brakes. Installed new wheel seals, installed a new pinion seal and yoke, and primed the axle tubes. I installed both drive shafts and soldered in the plug for the trans valve body.




Installed the LH CAC pipe.



I've got a check list that was around 35 things and I'm down to around 25 now before this truck should be done.

[6BT 56]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

This external regulater came from an early dodge pick up. It's a Napa ECH VR38 and the wire connector is ECH VRC38. I put a schematic up for it too.

What's important is that the switched positive is at the top of triangle, the other two terminals that go to the alt can be traded. The stock wires have to be disconnected and taped. Use a good ground.
Any 12v regulator will work, all have the same triangular plug setup.

Yes, you can do that for your grid heaters. I have two solenoids on mine. One sol per grid heater element, and I use a toggle switch. (A push button switch is way better) On this truck I used a 7.3 IDI glow plug controller which has a timer in it.

Timing, loosen your injection lines, the afc boost reference line, and the 3 bolts that secure the IP to the gear housing. Rotate the IP as close to the cylinder head as you can and retighten everything. This should get you to around 14-15* advanced and they run really well here.

Hey thanks for your reply.

you know your stuff on this cummins stuff. Excellent swap , as are the rest . thanks for the info on the regulater and the grid heaters. Needs 2 sol ? they must draw lots of amps. but I think the dodge had 2 mounted on the inner fender didnt it?

Timing advance sounds easy enuf. Do I need to do any other stuff to work with this or is this just a extra? I was going to do the fuel screw turn in a turn or 2 and play with the other adjustments. Unless you say otherwise !!

Keep up the great work . Cant wate to see this thing done!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Hey thanks for your reply.

you know your stuff on this cummins stuff. Excellent swap , as are the rest . thanks for the info on the regulater and the grid heaters. Needs 2 sol ? they must draw lots of amps. but I think the dodge had 2 mounted on the inner fender didnt it?

Timing advance sounds easy enuf. Do I need to do any other stuff to work with this or is this just a extra? I was going to do the fuel screw turn in a turn or 2 and play with the other adjustments. Unless you say otherwise !!

Keep up the great work . Cant wate to see this thing done!

Yes, I'd use 2 solenoids to keep from over heating the solenoids since they can be left on for a duration of time. The reason they use 2 is so each grid has it's own power supply, and they didn't want them to be on a long time. So with having a seperate sol per grid, each grid will heat quicker faster. There are 2 grids in the intake horn, they are side by side.

For more power, a 3k gov spring really helps, adjust your afc on your IP, and make sure you have a good lift pump. These will make good power with very little money being spent.

[Dieselwrencher]

Today I modified the upper radiator hose to clear the a/c bracket, started on the rear axle brake lines, and made a supporting bracket for the intake pipe. I ran out of welding wire and will have to get more.




It's getting closer and closer. I forgot how much work these are.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Today I modified the upper radiator hose to clear the a/c bracket, started on the rear axle brake lines, and made a supporting bracket for the intake pipe. I ran out of welding wire and will have to get more.




It's getting closer and closer. I forgot how much work these are.

Looking good!

i feel like a slacker, you are always running out of wire or argon, i am still on my first T cylinder and 44# spool from this time last year...

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Looking good!

i feel like a slacker, you are always running out of wire or argon, i am still on my first T cylinder and 44# spool from this time last year...

You do have to take in account how many projects the welder gets used on, be it customers rigs, fabricationg u-joint shields, crossmembers, benches, fixing stuff, etc. Also we have 2 or 3 ppl using it at various times as well.

[ryanroo]

Not here, mine is a one guy welder. i get enough of it at work, so if it isnt fun, i try not to do it at home...

Ryan

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Looking good!

i feel like a slacker, you are always running out of wire or argon, i am still on my first T cylinder and 44# spool from this time last year...

You a Slacker Yeah right. You have a 44lb spool compared to my dinky 10lb'r. My new welder will hold a bigger spool I hope. And my cylinder isn't a T unit either. Another reason why you suck. Haha

[Dieselwrencher]

Today I got the brake lines installed on the rear axle, and removed the rear proportioning valve that is always prone to leaking and not working on these trucks. We also bent around the new set of A/C lines to fit on this truck. We had to cut them and my brother took them to work to finish making them. I also got the air filter pipe done and installed. Upper radiator hose is done now too. The speedometer cable was plenty long to reach the gear box for the dodge NP205. The gear box on this truck was missing a rivet and would pop off the lower housing. So it'll be getting a new one. Getting really close.....



We're having trouble finding the correct front u-joint strap kit. I have one on there now, but it isn't exactly right. I'll have to try a spicer dealer tomorrow.

[1985-GMC]

Man everything looks awesome! Super jealous!

What condenser are you using on this truck Chevy, Dodge, universal? Whatever it is you should go with a parallel flow like all the 94+ vehicles have.