86 Silverado K20 12V CUMMINS Build

[Dieselwrencher]

I've never used that type of set up for a tach pick up, but it would be cool if it works well. Most of the swaps I've done the OEM tach is looking for a certain pulse count to operate correctly.

[stepside83]

this is a cool build def wanna see more

[brimc]

As soon as this long, cold winter starts winding down there will be many more to updates

[Mr. 250r]

I like the build but i questioned the motor mount metal thickness until i re-read the thread i was thinking it was 1/8in because it looked thin but you say its 3/16 to me i personally would've made it a 1/4 since i know these motors are rattle traps but at work for some reason we put these motors in industrial drills with tube frames that are 1/8in thick and solid mount the motors =-/ So i guess it'll be okay lol nice build keep it up

[brimc]

Originally Posted by Mr. 250r

I like the build but i questioned the motor mount metal thickness until i re-read the thread i was thinking it was 1/8in because it looked thin but you say its 3/16 to me i personally would've made it a 1/4 since i know these motors are rattle traps but at work for some reason we put these motors in industrial drills with tube frames that are 1/8in thick and solid mount the motors =-/ So i guess it'll be okay lol nice build keep it up

I really appreciate this comment. I spent a long time thinking and researching before I pulled the plug on that part of the project. Yes they are 3/16 but I still believe they are overkill for this project. If I was going to up the HP and TQ big time I would have went 1/4. Definitely gotta be better than the stockers.

On the next project truck, one thing for sure, the next set I build will be better than the last ones!

[COS399]

Brian,

I can't wait to see you finish this one and follow your next one. Thanks for the great pictures and lots of them.

[6BT 56]

Looking good . I am likeing those gauges. I will be checking there website for sure . I am so tired of this winter !!!!! Burned up all my firewood . I have ALWAYS had some left . Guess I will know better for the future . Burning furnace oil at $1.20 ish pr L and up really burns me . I had so many plans this winter and it just kept coming and coming . Will be glad to see temps in the + thats for sure . Any plans to get a tc under there ? A divorced 205 is hard to find i bet . I always giggle to my self when I see the pics of the truck with the 2 tone paint . Reminds me of when it lived down the street and was always rollig thru Coldwater covered in mud So nice to see it getting the proper attention . I always liked the 2 tone . Really looks good on these trucks

[brimc]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Looking good . I am likeing those gauges. I will be checking there website for sure . I am so tired of this winter !!!!! Burned up all my firewood . I have ALWAYS had some left . Guess I will know better for the future . Burning furnace oil at $1.20 ish pr L and up really burns me . I had so many plans this winter and it just kept coming and coming . Will be glad to see temps in the + thats for sure . Any plans to get a tc under there ? A divorced 205 is hard to find i bet . I always giggle to my self when I see the pics of the truck with the 2 tone paint . Reminds me of when it lived down the street and was always rollig thru Coldwater covered in mud So nice to see it getting the proper attention . I always liked the 2 tone . Really looks good on these trucks

I hear ya on the winter. WOW. My wood pile and oil tank are nearing empty as well. Probably double the fuel than last year.
I have 3 options for the T/C. ( 4 if I go 2wd ) I keep scanning the adds for NP205's. I figure I might as well hold out until a good deal. I want to go divorced. 2nd would be change out the tail on my current getrag and put on a 205 from a 1st Gen. ( only because mine is recent rebuild and good clutch ) 3rd is swap out the front axle to a driver drop and go NV4500 or 5600 or G56 and T/C from the same.
I remembered when you mentioned coldwater that I was going to put up some more history about the truck and never did. Here is an appraisal from 1997 when the truck had it's first rebuild.









Hopefully as soon as the weather warms up some, more truck building

[6BT 56]

Well I think the local who owned it may have let it slide a bit according to that vs what you are showing now . Lol.

Any thoughts on the paint ? The burgandy and gray looked sexy for sure.

[brimc]

Paint options still up in the air also.
Solid bright white.
Solid red.
Two tone white/red.
Or paint it the same two tone burgundy / charcoal grey. ???
Right now, leaning towards solid white.

[6BT 56]

Solid white is so commercial . We have a fleet of trucks at the marina that are all white . They all look the same and there the same as every other shops trucks as well.

Yes it is nice when it's all nice and new but that gets old fast . As for the bergandy / Gray . Thats just flat out sexy . Not to likely to find another one like it either .

Whith your attention to detail it will be nice no matter what you do Im sure.

[brimc]

Agreed on the White. However, it is easy to prep, spray, and excellent coverage and hides poor craftsmanship well
I can not remember who or where I stole this picture from, so if this is your truck, let me know so I can give you the credit I think this is a very nice truck and shows the "white" very well.


I am also going to be painting this thing myself. Since I do not have access to a full shop / booth anymore I will be creating a special home made booth at home. Can't wait. It's almost truck building season around these parts. I could work outside today and still feel my fingers inside my gloves!

[brimc]

Not much to update. Spent a couple hours yesterday welding in the patch panel and cab support on the drivers side. It was too cold to take any pictures as I couldn't feel my fingers.
Today is not looking any better. Isn't it March now?

[Dieselwrencher]

Man, I feel your pain. It got up to 6* here but last night was -18* without any wind. It's March, where's spring? What is spring any way? We didn't have one last year either.

[6BT 56]

I said it before and i'll say it again . I'm sick of winter . Two years ago we planted my fields on March 16. I dont think we will make it this year . Lol. Id just be happy with some single didgit cold . All my truck $$ has been burned up the chimney this year .

[brimc]

My guess is we will still need the snow blower mar.16th. No planting till the snow melts off in June.
I seen this yesterday and had to do a double take with my cell phone. I figure this cold winter has something to do with this. When did this happen? I might have to change plans and do a Big Block conversion to save on gas prices.

[brimc]

Well still a crap load of snow and it is still cold but managed to get some work started on the old cab. This cab, the more I get into it, the more I think it should have been scrap. However, I will save it and it will be better than it was for sure!
I am working on the fire wall and the clutch hydro setup. I am going to use a complete 1st gen system. I started by cutting out the factory location with a hole saw. This is easy as there is dimples stamped in the metal. I confirmed the diameter of the seal and figured a 2.5" hole would work. Problem is that I had some rot in this area and it needed to be fixed. So I cut it out.

So I also do not need the speedo cable hole either, so I dollied the area fairly flat and made up a patch panel outa 18g. Drilled the hole and started fitting it into place.

Couple of tacks to hold it in place.

Shown from the inside with all the rot gone and not needed original metal.

Now this area of the fire wall will only support the rubber gromet/seal. There will be no additional strength required as the additional bracket supports all the pushing of the pedal.

[brimc]

So I have the old chevy pedal and the old 1st gen pedal.

I cut off the old spring holder on the chevy and the hydro rod on the 1st gen pedals

Started setting things into place. Got the gromet seated and lighty supported by a bunge cord.

Then temporary locked on the support bracket.

Then kinda set things into place by eye with clamps and small piece of angle.

I want to weld or bolt the support bracket solid to the stock chev pedal assy. If you look hard you can see a very small cut piece I slipped in there just to see how it would line everything up.

The linkage looks like it will move straight and not bind. I have it c clamped for now and I can rotate to create different angles before I weld it solid to the pedal. I want to make the bracket solid first so I can make actual strokes with the pedal/c clamp.

So I am looking for some feedback on this. Will this work? Any pros or cons I am missing?

Two things I am not sure about yet is hard stop to limit the travel of the pedal before the floor and what about spring return now that I cut of the original spring holder on the stock pedal?
Looking forward to some help on this one.

[brimc]

I tack welded and clamped the bracket to see what it looked like.

I then removed the whole assembly. I think I will weld it up a bit more solid and try some test strokes.

[Dieselwrencher]

It should work. I bet you will need to add a light spring to help pull the pedal all the way back. When I had the dodge hydros on my chevy pedal on my 72, it wouldn't come up all the way. It could have been that my pedal assembly was too tight, IDK. I think I might add more than the litle angle you have in between the clutch master mount and the brake pedal. But it definitely is looking like it should work ok. If you need more throw out of the system, you can cut the master rod and get a long threaded nut. Thread the old rod and wala, adjustable hydro.

[COS399]

I think if it were mine, I would just cut off the flat face piece that holds the master cylinder from the rest of the bracket and just weld it to the firewall. That is the way my '88 is set up but instead of welding it on the firewall the mechanic bolted it up. When I finally tear mine down to rewire and such, I plan on welding it in. It's looking good.

[6BT 56]

What your doing is very close to how I did mine . All the same parts . My pedal assy is under the floor tho. Used the same bracket as you are doing . They are fun to get out from under the stock daash eh ! I had trouble becouse the travel of the hyd assy was up before my pedal was out of travel. Thus I bent the rod going into the master when it was out of room but my foot was saying more ! Or giving more anyway . After this i did basically what Ryan mentioned and added a sleve over the remaining straight part and threaded rod on the other with a small heim joint . Works well now .

[brimc]

Thanks for the interest and feedback guys. I did some more checking and this I what I have come up with. I did consider cutting the face of the bracket and welding to the fire wall but decided against it for 2 reasons. Firewall flex due to all the push force and also with this style of master cylinder from a 1st gen, the way the seals work you would have to eliminate the large outer seal which I am sure would air leak and waterleak. I cut 2 pieces of angle and tacked them into position. I removed that very small piece that I used.

I also trimmed some off the bracket to allow pedal clearance at full stroke.


I think I also have figured out a way to re-use the stock chev return spring on the pedal by welding the pin back on in a slightly different position. I have to still install it all back on the cab to re-test the strokes etc. then mock up the spring. I am also going to install a hardstop for the pedal because right now the only pedal stop is the master cylinder inself. I will get some more pictures also. Hopefully this will help others out as I struggled a little bit on figuring out this one myself.

[Dieselwrencher]

That is looking stronger and that's a good deal about the return spring.

[brimc]

So I think I got the clutch pedal done. I have welded the bracket on the solid now.

I have a new hard stop that will contact just about full stroke on the master and a new return spring to hold the pedal.

Little splash of black and set it in place to try it out.

Full return and full stroke seems to be smooth and straight.


The seal around the master looks good and no flex on the fire wall at all.

Now onto body work. Cab rust Got alot to do before I can say its is ready for paint. Hopefully time and weather will be on my side