my 63 upgrade

[1963c-10]

I did have to do some trimming for those headers also. Around 5/16" and still had one tube tight on both sides. But I can install/remove them with no issue.

Cylinder 2 & 3 were the tightest fit on the frame.

In the last pic you can see where I trimmed the frame. Just used a grinder and got very nice results. The CPP mounts wouldn't allow me to use the headers....so they were swapped out for the POL mounts that we're both running.

[1963c-10]

You can use the head port for the other temp gauge your running with no problem.

I do recommend that you take the Teflon tape of the sending units though. They can give false readings with the Teflon tape on.

[Captainfab]

The correct location for an oil pressure sender or line would be the port directly above the oil filter which has the square headed plug. The port next to it may work, but I have not used that one before. The ports just above the left pan rail, behind your alternator, will give a oil pressure reading directly from the main bearings. Yes you can install your temp sender in either head. The drivers side head is where GM installed them most of the time. Does your intake manifold not have ports on both sides of the thermostat?

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

You can use the head port for the other temp gauge your running with no problem.

I do recommend that you take the Teflon tape of the sending units though. They can give false readings with the Teflon tape on.

i'll do thanks!

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The correct location for an oil pressure sender or line would be the port directly above the oil filter which has the square headed plug. The port next to it may work, but I have not used that one before. The ports just above the left pan rail, behind your alternator, will give a oil pressure reading directly from the main bearings. Yes you can install your temp sender in either head. The drivers side head is where GM installed them most of the time. Does your intake manifold not have ports on both sides of the thermostat?

hi captain, yes the intake have ports on both sides but the DS one is smaller than the PS and i cannot find an adaptor for the thread. the intake is in ... wathever it is (sorry) and my probe is in metric, too bad because they are the same size just the thread is different. i'll try to have a machine shop build an adaptor for me or i'll play simple and just keep the factory gauge and sender. they were working so i'm not too worried, the stack gauge was just graduated it was just to get a better idea of the temperature the engine is running.

same for the oil pressure i'll use the port you say with my factory gauge and i'll try to find a T jig to plug the graduated stack gauge.

thanks.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

I did have to do some trimming for those headers also. Around 5/16" and still had one tube tight on both sides. But I can install/remove them with no issue.

Cylinder 2 & 3 were the tightest fit on the frame.

In the last pic you can see where I trimmed the frame. Just used a grinder and got very nice results. The CPP mounts wouldn't allow me to use the headers....so they were swapped out for the POL mounts that we're both running.

hey, is it an impression or your frame is not straight, i mean where you put the gaffer is it wider that's why you have to cut? if so mine was straight.
i don't have to modify the frame excpet from removing the bellhousing crossmember for the headers (in fact only the additionnal bracket on each side, i could have kept the crossmember) and cut a little the frame just where the POL mounts go.
but to put my headers on, i have to remove the starter on the PS and the two last spark plugs and the slave cylinder bracket on the DS.

[1963c-10]

No, frame is straight. I'm running 2" primary tubes. I doubt that I could have squeezed in the 1 3/4" tubes either. When I had the CPP mounts in they barely fit and that was with the frame trimmed. The original headers I tried were for the 67-72 chevy trucks also. These are larger and I like the tube placement better also.

And I was able to install these headers with the starter in. Did have to jack up the driver side a few inches to get around the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.

[1strong63]

i olmost die when i saw this. i put fresh oil just before starting the engine today and look at what's left! all the bearings are new, the cam and crank are new, check all clearance with plastigauge, check all the hydraulic lifters, prime the engine before break in in addition to generous assembly lube everywhere, remove the coil on the valve and run 20 min @2000rpm what's wrong?

[1strong63]

keep working anyway. i change my steering column bearing and stuff and i lost the pictures i took when disassembly, so i struggle a bit to put all together.
i tought i can do it on the bench and stab it into the truck but steering coupler won't pass threw the fender...
i feel that i miss a few inches to put back the steering wheel.

then i found why my turn signal won't go back to neutral. the signal cancel plate is dead.

and some pics of the headers and clearance.


cheers

[61K10]

what am i looking at?

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by 61K10

what am i looking at?

sorry maybe here is a better angle, we had dark weather today and not enought light in the warehouse + mate black paint and crappy photographer.

[1strong63]

1 dumb question. i have a 6 quarts oil pan with an aftermarket dipstick with no marks low or full. so should i fill 6 quarts of oil and call it a day and grind small cut in the dipstick to have the f "full"or should i put more oil in the engine cause it's big block or something?
(told you it was dumb)

[Captainfab]

I'm not sure what I'm looking at, but is that all the oil you drained out of the engine after break in?

Originally Posted by 1strong63

i olmost die when i saw this. i put fresh oil just before starting the engine today and look at what's left! all the bearings are new, the cam and crank are new, check all clearance with plastigauge, check all the hydraulic lifters, prime the engine before break in in addition to generous assembly lube everywhere, remove the coil on the valve and run 20 min @2000rpm what's wrong?
Attachment 1403356

If the oil pan is a 6 quart pan, then it should take 6 quarts to bring the oil up to the full make. This does not include the capacity of the oil filter. Plus if the engine is new or has not been run in some time, there will be a certain amount of oil that will be retained inside the engine.

Originally Posted by 1strong63

1 dumb question. i have a 6 quarts oil pan with an aftermarket dipstick with no marks low or full. so should i fill 6 quarts of oil and call it a day and grind small cut in the dipstick to have the f "full"or should i put more oil in the engine cause it's big block or something?
(told you it was dumb)

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by 61K10

what am i looking at?

ok i get it, this is what left at the bottom of the bucket when i drain the break in oil.
oil whith a lot of metal contamination.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I'm not sure what I'm looking at, but is that all the oil you drained out of the engine after break in?



If the oil pan is a 6 quart pan, then it should take 6 quarts to bring the oil up to the full make. This does not include the capacity of the oil filter. Plus if the engine is new or has not been run in some time, there will be a certain amount of oil that will be retained inside the engine.

hi captain, yes this is the oil i flush from the oil pan after my break in. it's loaded with metal, all size, shape and color, like the engine is self eating! i cut the oil filter and i was not great either.
i tought to remove the oil pan and clean it but it is assembled with sealant and they are some tight places that i'll have troubles to clean, and the engine is in the truck with all put back together.
do you think that i should keep it like that and do for example 1 oil service per fill of gas then i'll control the oil to see if it's worth or better?

[Captainfab]

It is difficult for me to see in a picture, exactly what you may be seeing first hand, but by the sounds of your description, I would say it is time for the engine to come back out and have a look.

I know that is not what you want to hear much less do. It is better and less $$$$ to do it now rather than after the entire engine is ruined

[1strong63]

[DakotaKid]

byt he looks of things those rear brakes are Ford 9 Inch, and just by looking they look to be the big ones, Ford Full Size Late 60s start there to look for brake parts. Converting thse axles to pressed on bearings is common practice in the hot rod world. axles may very well be aftermarket.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by DakotaKid

byt he looks of things those rear brakes are Ford 9 Inch, and just by looking they look to be the big ones, Ford Full Size Late 60s start there to look for brake parts. Converting thse axles to pressed on bearings is common practice in the hot rod world. axles may very well be aftermarket.

hi, yes maybe they are the big ones cause the drums where absoloutly enormous compared to the front ones twice wide and thick.
are the pressed bearing a better thing or not over the factory chevrolet design?

[1strong63]

just learn a bad news today, my friend that is using the warehouse didn't pay the rent for the last 3 months so the owner is kicking is butt out so i'll have to leave with the truck, for th emoment i have no place to take it.

on the other hand i have a full MSD ignition system with distributor, coil and trigger box, finally when i see all the set up it's a lot of wire to clean in the engine bay and put the coil and the box properly. so i saw this things from D.U.I they can taylor it to your application and it is all in one some of you use this, how good si it compared to MSD?
thanks
séb

[66Submarine]

Flat tappet cam? Probably a "modern" grind from Comp or something? Unfortunately, I'll have to say that's probably one of your cam lobes in the oil pan.

[1strong63]

hi, yes it's a hydraulic flat tappet cam. i bought a full set http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...39-3/overview/.
damn i check every lifter before assembly and remove a valve coil for the break in, how could this happen.

[66Submarine]

Comp Xtreme Energy...yeah. "ENGINEERED TO FINISH FIRST" in the race to the oil pan, it seems like. Those have very aggressive lobe profiles and are known for problems with going flat.

I've personally decided I'm going to stick to "old" grinds ("white box" generic/OEM type stuff, etc) for all my stuff with flat tappet cams for this reason. IMO the potential extra 5HP or whatever is not even close to worth it (and if that was really a factor you'd be insane not to use a roller cam).

Did you use a break-in additive in the oil?

I also like the gray molybdenum disulfide grease cam lube (like Isky Rev-Lube). The red Comp stuff seems to run/drip off.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by 66Submarine

Comp Xtreme Energy...yeah. "ENGINEERED TO FINISH FIRST" in the race to the oil pan, it seems like. Those have very aggressive lobe profiles and are known for problems with going flat.

I've personally decided I'm going to stick to "old" grinds ("white box" generic/OEM type stuff, etc) for all my stuff with flat tappet cams for this reason. IMO the potential extra 5HP or whatever is not even close to worth it (and if that was really a factor you'd be insane not to use a roller cam).

Did you use a break-in additive in the oil?

I also like the gray molybdenum disulfide grease cam lube (like Isky Rev-Lube). The red Comp stuff seems to run/drip off.

hi, i didn't choose it for HP or so, i had limited knowledge regarding the cam choice and i more pick this one up cause it was supplied complete (cam, timing gear/chain etc), the rpm range was quite mild, than really looking for perf.
i use a break in additive, prime the engine in oil (oil just came of to the rocker after 30 seconds) check all the lifters by hand when assembly,
i use red assy lube everywhere and on the cam too.

as i have to move the truck soon, i'll first finish all the wiring and stuffs on the truck and then i'll open the engine.

questions are, if i have to change the cam can i keep all the components that came with the comp cam kit? and as it'll be a daily driver as much as i can should i swap to a roller cam or stick to a stock cam?
thanks
séb

[1strong63]

ok i might have found the culprit for the metal in the oil.
i start investigate today, before dismantling the engine, on the distributor gear and the rockers.
distributor gear is ok but when i remove the valve covers, all the rockers are loose except one, i spin the engine buy the crank and the same rocker is always stuck.
i have hydraulic flat tappet cam with roller tip rockers.
cheers