What can be said about the 4-speed New Process NV833 overdrive manual transmission?

[Keith Seymore]

Good call, D13. Didn't think about a Julian date.

I'm curious now, so I think I'll crawl under lil Red and check that date and also the part number.

K

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by aotte1

My '86 stepper came with one originally, and below are a couple of photos. I believe the shifter, boot, and knob to be original.

Correct - your shifter, boot and knob are original (appearing) for '86 and '87.

K

[Gregski]

ok, for those of you who are just skimmnig this, my obsession with this one odd ball bolt will seam extravagant, but as soon as you take your side cover off and try to put it back on you will say, oh o, that Gregski guy was on to something

so here is a pic, the top bolt is the wierd one with the longer neck / or shoulder what ever you call it, the bottom one is like the other six

there is 10 side cover bolts total, 2 long ones, 1 odd ball one, and 7 short ones

Where does this odd ball one go?

[hatzie]

With a shoulder that long the case will have to be counterbored to mate with it.
You should be able to examine the bolt holes to find the one that doesn't have threads flush with the case.

[Gregski]

ok, my turn, here is the number off of mine, I'm glad you brought it up cause I did not even notice there was a number there it was so dirty

CB1197587

sort of interesting how mine only has the one single number on that rectangle and not three like the other transmission in the thread

[Gregski]

more importantly bought some shifter rods off of eBay for $120. Although I only needed the middle one I had to buy all three. At a quick glance they look identical to the ones I have, I will bolt the middle one up here shortly to see how this beauty shifts. Can't wait.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

more importantly bought some shifter rods off of eBay for $120. Although I only needed the middle one I had to buy all three. At a quick glance they look identical to the ones I have, I will bolt the middle one up here shortly to see how this beauty shifts. Can't wait.

Cool

Pick the ones with the least wear and sell the leftovers on Fleabay.
Someone is probably looking for them.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Cool

Pick the ones with the least wear and sell the leftovers on Fleabay.
Someone is probably looking for them.

I will wait till I install this transmission and see how it shifts, handles, feels. If I like it I may just keep the extra bits and piece together another shifter. One things for sure, the GM specific truck shifter linkage is more rare than the transmission, ha ha

[Gregski]

so the good news continues, after whipping off 40 years of grease off of the new shifter rod I was able to mount it, and it fits perfect (the seller was adamant it would only fit a 4x4 and not a 2WD like mine) but I did my homework using all three Parts Illustration books you all recommended, thank you and took a chance, well it paid off

please note the small rectangular bracket on ours says 3rd and OD as in Over Drive instead of 3rd and 4th gear like the Mopar ones do, is it more than just text on the metal, does it signify a different cut out / angle for the shifter, who knows, just reporting the facts

I will share pics off all three shifter brackets next, but here is the one I was missing, it's the middle one, fits like a glove

[Gregski]

here are all the three LEVERS as they are called in the parts book, the rectangular pieces that are about 1 inch by 2 1/2 inches, they are not all the same,

the insert cut out for the bolt is on a different angle on each, impossible to see in my pics as it is hidden behind the washer, but I will share some more detailed pics later

also the 1st & 2nd gear one is flat, the 3rd & OD gear one is flat, the Reverse gear one is offset by about 1/8 of an inch

I share this stuff in great detail, in case someone finds themselves needing to make these from scratch, maybe they can make them for themselves, maybe sell them to others

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Gregski

please note the small rectangular bracket on ours says 3rd and OD as in Over Drive instead of 3rd and 4th gear like the Mopar ones do, is it more than just text on the metal, does it signify a different cut out / angle for the shifter, who knows, just reporting the facts

Make sense since there was some trickery employed to create the overdrive.

Actually third gear is reconfigured to .73:1, and fourth gear is 1:1, so the arm is "flipped" (I'm told) so that you fake the shifter out into thinking it is a traditional "H" pattern. Otherwise you'd have to shift into 4th for straight up and "downshift" into 3rd to get overdrive.

Flipping the linkage makes it transparent to the driver.

K

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so the good news continues, after whipping off 40 years of grease off of the new shifter rod I was able to mount it, and it fits perfect (the seller was adamant it would only fit a 4x4 and not a 2WD like mine) but I did my homework using all three Parts Illustration books you all recommended, thank you and took a chance, well it paid off

please note the small rectangular bracket on ours says 3rd and OD as in Over Drive instead of 3rd and 4th gear like the Mopar ones do, is it more than just text on the metal, does it signify a different cut out / angle for the shifter, who knows, just reporting the facts.

I believe that's specific to the OD version of the A833 not just the GM variant. I've seen 3 of the Mopar A833 OD variants in base model early 80's D150 Ram trucks. They all used the same "flipped upside down 3-4 lever" trick as the GM A833 OD gearboxes. I can't remember whether they were marked 3 & OD on one side or not... likely they were.

[Gregski]

here is a better look at the special cut outs in the LEVERS I mentioned earlier

1 & 2 Lever appears to be straight up and down like 12 o'clock

3 & OD Lever is upside down and appears to be angled like 2:00 o'clock

Reverse Lever appears to be angled like 1: o'clock

[Gregski]

I swear I thought something rattlin' loose in that there transmission, I may have knocked something off upon my initial disassembly or it may have been like that from the git go, I don't know, but today I was determined to seek and find it, and so I did

and this is what I found at the bottom of the beast, question now is where do it go?

[Gregski]

Well I found out what it is, though I had to go to the 1985-86 Illustration Catalog to look up the MY6 transmission schematic as the 1979-84 did not show this piece, I guess you shifted in to reverse with pixie dust in those years.

It is called a Reverse Interlock Link and along with it I found the Reverse Interlock Link Retaining Pin at the buttom of my trans attached to the magnet that's why it didn't make no rattlin sound.

The piece goes on the backside of the side cover.

Not too pleased with the way the pin goes in, I just tapped it in with a hammer, this may need revisiting.

[Gregski]

well even with the RIL back in position I still couldn't shift into reverse and I decided the shifter itself was to blame, so I decided to divorce it from the bracket

two bolts, of different sizes

[Gregski]

still not happy that I had to wedge a large flat screw driver to get the darn shifter stick to pop into reverse I decided to take it all apart, it needed a cleaning anyway, as I could hear sand grinding in there

Then Monday Night Football was about to start, so I decided to call it a day

[Gregski]

Excellent video on how to rebuild the Hurst Competition Plus shifter, by The Man himself

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huUETRzXM7k

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Excellent video on how to rebuild the Hurst Competition Plus shifter, by The Man himself

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huUETRzXM7k

Which "man" is that?

I was expecting either George Hurst or Jack "Doc" Watson (the "Shifty Doctor").



K

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Which "man" is that?

I was expecting either George Hurst or Jack "Doc" Watson (the "Shifty Doctor").



K

Sorry to disappoint Keith, he did write the book on how to rebuild the manual transmissions that we see all over the Internet, plus the man has a soul patch, ha ha

[hatzie]

A couple points I don't like about how he does this.

He re-uses the roll pins. I would never do that. They're usually fairly cheap and they loose some tension when you drive them through. You don't want em walking through when you're driving.
GM Hurst etc used Nylok nuts for a reason. Loctite may work OK but I've had fasteners with Loctite come loose where Nyloks will stay in place.
I wouldn't recommend hardened relay rod bushings. The main reason to have soft plastic relay rod bushings is they wear instead of the rod ends, shifter paddles or, the transmission levers. The Pit Pack with nylon bushings is pretty cheap.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

He re-uses the roll pins. I would never do that. They're usually fairly cheap and they loose some tension when you drive them through. You don't want em walking through when you're driving.

I concur, same rule of thumb as cotter pins.

Originally Posted by hatzie

GM Hurst etc used Nylok nuts for a reason. Loctite may work OK but I've had fasteners with Loctite come loose where Nyloks will stay in place.

From what I saw he reused the single Nylok nut.

Originally Posted by hatzie

I wouldn't recommend hardened relay rod bushings. The main reason to have soft plastic relay rod bushings is they wear instead of the rod ends, shifter paddles or, the transmission levers. The Pit Pack with nylon bushings is pretty cheap.

Yeah, I thought that too, those plastic bushings are the sacrificial part, if you replace them with a part that is tougher than the other parts, then your other parts will wear out instead of the part that is meant to wear out.

But than again, he builds race transmissions and not your grocery getters, so there may be a reason, probably tighter fittings, more sturdyability, and race cars are driven less than daylies so the parts can last just fine. Honestly I don't know. ha ha

[walkerb]

Gregski, I'm guessing this is the bolt. It's the bolt in the middle at the back of the cover. Inline with the two shifting forks, again towards the rear of the cover

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by walkerb

Gregski, I'm guessing this is the bolt. It's the bolt in the middle at the back of the cover. Inline with the two shifting forks, again towards the rear of the cover

thank you so much, for some reason mine would not fit through the hole in the lid in that spot, but the case did have a deeper hole in that spot, thanks again I will clean the hole in the lid and it should go back in

[walkerb]

It's been awhile since I've had a side cover off so I can remember if my Saginaw fork looked like this.
Is this wear acceptable?