68 C50 Looongbed pickup build

[Deer_hunter_088]

Finaly, been waiting bud, lol

[Softpatch]

Great job...
Nice score on the steering box
Life get's in the way... We stall out...
but you kept going ..
Why .?
Vision and skill.!



My degreaser of choice "Purple magic"
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Thought I would share ..
...This was a picture of my 67 c-10
( sold it to fund my 59 Viking)

Thanks for the motivation
...................................................Sp
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[rkn463]

Originally Posted by Softpatch

Great job...
Nice score on the steering box
Life get's in the way... We stall out...
but you kept going ..
Why .?
Vision and skill.!



My degreaser of choice "Purple magic"
.
Thought I would share ..
...This was a picture of my 67 c-10
( sold it to fund my 59 Viking)

Thanks for the motivation
...................................................Sp
.

.

Wow did they really connect the warmercougher to the heater control?

Seriously, thanks for checking in. I will definitely go with a more aggressive degreaser as soon as I have to change it.

Thanks for checking in!

-Richard

[Softpatch]

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This picture is hard to put out of my mind...Why.?
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Followed by these
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Now I have to do this
....and I have to think about this ......Hard.?
While I think I would like to have PS..
Now M'I changing the characture of the truck.?

What if people see me driving the truck and notice I'm not struggling
with that big wheel
Could I live with that.?
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............................some more hard thinking.?
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[rkn463]

Originally Posted by Softpatch

Now I have to do this
....and I have to think about this ......Hard.?
While I think I would like to have PS..
Now M'I changing the characture of the truck.?

What if people see me driving the truck and notice I'm not struggling
with that big wheel
Could I live with that.?
.
............................some more hard thinking.?
.

I'd say go for it, The v8 changed it some already.
Be aware that the power steering box has a different bolt pattern than the manual one o you'll be drilling new holes. Also those big boxes use big pumps so get that from whatever doner you use.

Updates coming in the next couple of days when I recover from the weekend.

-Richard

[Deer_hunter_088]

id rather be laughed at and have a comfortable truck, than send my truck in the door of some guys truck because i couldnt swerve fast enough.

[Okiefromwatonga]

Originally Posted by Deer_hunter_088

id rather be laughed at and have a comfortable truck, than send my truck in the door of some guys truck because i couldnt swerve fast enough.

Amen. I will make every update in the name of safety needed

[Deer_hunter_088]

plus itd mean all the money he put into it wasted if he did wreck it

[rkn463]

Originally Posted by Deer_hunter_088

Finaly, been waiting bud, lol

Brace yourself, here we go again!

Originally Posted by Softpatch

Great job...
Nice score on the steering box
Life get's in the way... We stall out...
but you kept going ..
Why .?
Vision and skill.!
.

I appreciate the compliment!

Originally Posted by Deer_hunter_088

id rather be laughed at and have a comfortable truck, than send my truck in the door of some guys truck because i couldnt swerve fast enough.

Couldn't agree more!

Originally Posted by Okiefromwatonga

Amen. I will make every update in the name of safety needed

Ditto!

Originally Posted by Deer_hunter_088

plus itd mean all the money he put into it wasted if he did wreck it

Yep.


So, a couple of thoughts on modifying the trucks - just my opinion, right or wrong:

I do really appreciate the nostalgia of a full original, there is really something special there. However, modifications that take it somewhere it could have been stock, such as a 366, 5 speed, 2 speed diff and power steering all of which were available in 68 (the year I am building) are a no brainer for me. The mods I make that weren't available for the sake of safety like the 4 wheel disc brakes with hydroboost are also a no brainer as I will be using the truck and when I mash the middle pedal, I want it to stop!

And the pickup bed, well...
OK, I can only say that it is just what I wanted to do

-Richard

[rkn463]

So last weekend was about getting the frame reinforcements bolted back on. Before doing that I wanted to address a problem that I created when I removed them. In cutting the rivets out I had slightly cut into the plates which ultimately creates a weak spot where a crack might form right where it will bolt back together. So I went to weld them up and on the very first arc a molten ball of slag dropped through one of the many holes in my work jeans, rolled down my leg, into my boot and came to rest on top of my foot. Jumping and swearing ensued. I admit, not very original but it seemed appropriate at the time. So I stopped long enough to tape up the holes with Gorilla tape and then continued.

-Richard

[rkn463]

After welding up the "cuts" I ground down the welds, along with some really rough crap that the factory had left when they punched holes to bring the gas lines through. After cleaning all that up I roughed up the plates inside and out and hit them with a coat of Rust-oleum Rust Reformer. Then did the same to the frame where the plates would cover. I wanted to make sure that the two parts that would be sandwiched together had paint as I did not want trapped moisture in there to have a head start on rusting it out.

-Richard

[rkn463]

Next I hit the areas that would be touching with a coat or Rust-oleum semi-gloss (because that is all I had left). Somehow I did not get a picture of that step. Next I pulled the bolts that were holding the spring perches in place and dropped the plates back in. I was able to tap the front down into place with a hammer and line it up front to back with a long punch. I replaced the bolts in the back and used some c clamps to hold it all in place in the front. All of the original holes from where the frame was cut to the back still lined up so I started filling them all with grade 8 bolts. From the cut forward I would have to drill new holes. The plan was to use existing holes in the frame or plate and drill through the other side. Through this all I am drilling a 1/4 inch lead hole and following that with a step bit. I had been trying to figure out how I could really center the 1/4 inch lead hole inside of an existing 1/2 inch hole. As I poked around in the shop I suddenly realized I could tap a 5/16 nut into the hole with a hammer and use it to guide the 1/4 in drill bit. It worked better than I expected! Once the lead hole was drilled I just threaded a bolt into the nut and wiggled it back out. The first ones I drilled were through the holes in the plate that used to line up with the front cross member but were now 18" forward.

-Richard

[rkn463]

I also had to drill through the plate and hit the existing holes in the frame and front cross member. I used the nut in the hole to measure from to make a mark on masking tape that I had placed over the area to be drilled. Then measured how far in from the edge and had my marks. Then: center punch, drill lead hole and then step it out to a half inch. Dang near perfect! One last shot with the passenger side frame plate bolted on. I am going to ream out the holes in the spring perch mount to 5/8 and put shoulder bolts in...

-Richard

[rkn463]

The last thing I hit over the weekend was the exhaust manifold issue. The 89 had AIR plumbed into the exhaust manifolds (part of the pile of crap pictured in post 100). I had thought that the fittings would be a standard pipe thread that I could just stick a plug in but no such luck. Plan B was to drill the holes out and tap for pipe thread. So I spent 20 bucks on a 23/32 drill bit (the size drill to tap for 1/2" FIP) The drilling part went good but the tapping not so much. Plan C is to weld a bolt over the hole. (UPDATE: When I went to the hardware store I got some carriage bolts that the head will drop in the hole and try welding that in).

-Richard

[rkn463]

That is all for last weekend folks. The list is getting very short for starting to move the 68 body over! Here is my list (so far):

• Drill holes and mount passenger side frame reinforcement plate.
• Paint back half of frame
• cut and flare brake line that was removed.
• Install the brake line...
• reinstall oil cooler line
• flush power steering box.
• reconnect pitman arm

As always, I'll see more as I get in to it but it is starting to look promising!

Thanks for checking in folks!
-Richard

[Softpatch]

I posted this a few days ago.... Not like your truck
this looks like they just through it together....Sp
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Originally Posted by Softpatch

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https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/5764109773.html
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Very cool
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[Advanced Design]

Nice work on transferring the holes. Doing that accurately is a challenge I often struggle with.
Good progress!

[rkn463]

Originally Posted by Softpatch

I posted this a few days ago.... Not like your truck
this looks like they just through it together....Sp
.

When I hatched this idea I had never seen a medium duty chevy made in to a pickup, now it seems like they are popping up everywhere. I do still have a few tricks up my sleeve to keep mine unique.

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice work on transferring the holes. Doing that accurately is a challenge I often struggle with.
Good progress!

Thanks for checking in And for the compliment, I was surprised at how well they lined up.

-Richard

[Deer_hunter_088]

love watching this build!!!!

[notchbackgta]

If you can weld, just grind those tubes off and weld some contoured steel over, or get another piece of pipe and cut it so it will cover the hole, should be pretty easy.

And why a grade 8 bolt when a non-graded bolt would work and be cheaper? lol

[rkn463]

Originally Posted by notchbackgta

If you can weld, just grind those tubes off and weld some contoured steel over, or get another piece of pipe and cut it so it will cover the hole, should be pretty easy.

And why a grade 8 bolt when a non-graded bolt would work and be cheaper? lol

I have an extra set of manifolds that I have been planning on modifying as you suggested. I just wanted to get it back together ASAP as I have a big project looming and I need this off my plate.

So far as the grade 8 bolts, my motto is "if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing!" That and every build I've seen where a crossmember was drilled out, the rivets were replaced with grade 8. This is a mix of cross members and reinforcing plates, so... Refer back to motto

Updates from weekend coming soon.

-Richard

[Deer_hunter_088]

Cant wait to see this done!!!!

[rkn463]

Hi Everyone,

Here is my weekly update. As usual I did not accomplish anywhere near as much as I had hoped, however good progress was made!

Last week I started trying to find the last piece of the power steering/hydroboost system that needs either re-sealing or replacing. It is the auxiliary electric pump on the hydroboost unit. I had called my main source for this type of item and the news was bleak, over 300 dollars to have it rebuilt and since they have no cores I would have to send mine in with no guarantee that they could rebuild it. Mind you it does work, I'm just replacing it for fear that it is contaminated with brake fluid and I don't want to take a chance that it will start spitting particles of disintegrated seals into my expensive "new" (rebuilt) hydroboost unit. So Saturday morning I removed the aux unit to take to my local auto parts store to see if by chance they could get it. Now this in no O'Reilly or AutoZone, this is an old school guy that knows how to read words written on paper! I know, crazy, right?

Anyway he did couldn't get it but did give me a couple of leads that I haven't had a chance to follow up on yet. I also went by TSC and picked up enough grade 8 bolts, washers and nuts to finish reinstalling the reinforcing plates (along with more Rust-Oleum). I also tried out a burger joint in Meridian Texas (right next to the Sheriff's office/jail) that may be the best burger I ever ate. If you get the chance - Morgan Street Burgers. https://www.facebook.com/Morgan-Stre...6227204225108/

Here are pictures of the aux pump laying beside the old hydroboost unit, along with the tag that has the GM part number. When I googled the number I came up with several hits, just no-one that has it. I did find a nifty diagram that shows it!

-Richard

[rkn463]

Next up, I drilled the remaining holes in the frame, installed the bolts and torqued them all to 80 ft/lbs, why? Two reasons: 1) because "if it is worth doing it's worth overdoing" and 2) because that is the spec I found when I looked up torque specs for 1/2" coarse thread grade 8 bolts! I know, most of you think I'm

After that I rolled it outside, cleaned off all of the WD-40 that I used drilling holes, washed it with Dawn dish-washing liquid and a scotchbrite pad and then waited for it to dry. After that I hit it with 2 coats of Rust-Oleum satin black paint. I must admit that up close it isn't pretty. You can see every scratch that the 80 grit flap-wheels left and every run I got in the paint, but in the end I painted it for the same reason that GM did 27 years ago - to protect it from rust.

-Richard

[rkn463]

Next up, exhaust manifolds: as notchbackgta suggested, the ultimate goal is to cut out the AIR fittings and weld in patches, but that will be a later date with a spare set of manifolds. For now I need this thing running and out of the shop. I settled on carriage bolt heads to fit down inside the manifold, welded them up level and then ground them flat. I'm not going to lie, my welds ain't pretty, but the flap-wheel makes them acceptable. All this went down on Saturday, I had big plans for Sunday but life got in the way: feed the cows, recreational mowing, a little of this and that and next thing you know it's time to head back to the city lights to resume my day job as a computer nerd.

-Richard