Moody's Utah 58 Apache

[FinnDiesel]

Having just re-driveway-engineered my wiper system on a '58, I have not seen a wiper motor like that on a TF and the plumbing strap style of bracket doesn't really point to a factory install.
That being said, can the motor be spun 180 degrees either backward/forward or up/down? That would put the pivot in a different location.
Figuring the wiper arm pivoting out is a bit of brain-teaser as each side moves mirror image to each other unlike most modern wiper posts.

[FinnDiesel]

Have you turned the wiper motor on to see where park position is?

[FinnDiesel]

can u post a photo zoomed OUT a bit with the arms etc so we can see the full picture?

[alexMoody]

Got them going and working.

I removed the entire assembly. From the arms and bezels to the transmission and motor. Cleaned them all up and I found that the side that wasn't lining up did have a "stop" tab on the transmission arm. As I was looking at the driver side, it did. I circled it in red. I was able to pull the ball socket out and replace it with a spare. Luckily I have saved parts from multiple trucks I've had over the years. My guess is, somehow that tab bent and broke and it got stuck in a weird position or got over extended and stuck. I don't know what else I could have done different to fix it. On top of replacing all the seals and grommets associated with the wipers.

[FinnDiesel]

Good stuff. I see your TF did not the squirter hoses hooked up by the look of the tube there. I imagine you know, you have to remove the stainless screws from the outside and insert the threaded spray nozzles. Ask me how I know.

[alexMoody]

Originally Posted by FinnDiesel

Good stuff. I see your TF did not the squirter hoses hooked up by the look of the tube there. I imagine you know, you have to remove the stainless screws from the outside and insert the threaded spray nozzles. Ask me how I know.

Haha. When I had everything apart on the table one bezel has the screw. The other has a nozzle. I ordered a few universal parts for washing fluid plus a new set of nozzles.

Did you do a kit for yours or did you buy things individually?

[dsraven]

there is also the option of a squirter from a newer vehicle that could go in the grille ahead of the windshield, or drill a couple holes......sacriledge i know.

[FinnDiesel]

the trouble (or benefit) of the TF vertical windshield is that the squirters have to be close to the base of the windshield to get any kind of spray pattern - the benefit of the vertical windshield, is like today driving home in stop and go traffic, with it raining, my windshield was completely clean, whereas all the cars around me were wearing down their wiper rubbers.

[alexMoody]

Are there two different sizes for windshield washer nozzles? The screw that was in the bezel is bigger then the nozzles I got. The nozzle doesn't even try to thread in. It just slips in and out. I got these nozzles from Classic Industries.

There are some on eBay that are not so sharp, more rounded in appearnce but they are $160 for a pair. I don't need washer fluid that badly.

[FinnDiesel]

Mine just came yesterday - ordered back in August from KMS Tools. Usually a quality product, though stock is hit and miss . . ..
exactly the same problem - way too small of a thread. Whats up ?

[FinnDiesel]

Have you found out if there actually were 2 different sizes?

[dsraven]

you could check out nozzles for semi trucks as some of those older ones use something similar. some old bronco's and thunderbirds had screw in nozzles as well, so possibly other ford products. the other otion would be to use the clip on style nozzles that attach to the wiper arm, similar to what is used on some chevy pick ups, el caminos a few generations back and some GM cars too.
I know I have ayt least 1 set that I can check for size but they are in the attic of the shop so it won't be today, no room for a ladder set up right now, lol.
maybe you could try a few different sized machine screws to find the thread diameter and pitch, then look for nozzles that size?

[leegreen]

I think what is going on is that all the repop nozzles and bezzles use a smaller diameter than OEM. sounds like people also have trouble finding block off screws to fit OEM bezzles, it is not a common screw size.

GM probably used some miniature pipe thread that is no longer readily available

[FinnDiesel]

Originally Posted by leegreen

I think what is going on is that all the repop nozzles and bezzles use a smaller diameter than OEM. sounds like people also have trouble finding block off screws to fit OEM bezzles, it is not a common screw size.

GM probably used some miniature pipe thread that is no longer readily available

That makes sense. My original bezels are perfect though. Just saw the 'note'.

[dsraven]

Ok, I measured the washer block off screws on my wiper set.
0.159" OD
36 TPI
That corresponds to a blank size for a screw before the threads are cut. But that screw gets smaller once the threads are cut in so it won't likely fit.
I also checked metric. A 4mm x o.7 metric tap is basically the same TPI when an imperial pitch gauge is placed across the tap threads. I tried screwing that into the threaded hole in my nozzle plate. It fits just as good as the nozzle does.
Maybe you can find a metric nozzle that size and try it, if your nozzles are the same size as my originals.
Maybe your fastener store can fix you up with a stainless screw and you can make a nozzle?

[dsraven]

Or find some common sized nozzles and mod your plates to fit the new nozzles

[alexMoody]

Originally Posted by FinnDiesel

That makes sense. My original bezels are perfect though. Just saw the 'note'.

I had to go back and read it for myself. I guess that’s what I get for ordering parts after the better part of a case of Rocky Mountain cool aid.

I’ll order the bezels and new lock nuts too. Mine are pretty rounded off.

[FinnDiesel]

Originally Posted by alexMoody

I had to go back and read it for myself. I guess that’s what I get for ordering parts after the better part of a case of Rocky Mountain cool aid.

I’ll order the bezels and new lock nuts too. Mine are pretty rounded off.

Always good to have hydration while hobbying !
Here is decent close-up pic I just took - they are definitely at least 1 size off. The threads appear the same - 40 pitch SAE or as @dsraven said, it appears to be similar to a metric.7mm

[alexMoody]

I got the wipers all set up and working. I rigged it up with a plastic bottle for now but I think ill make something out of an old glass bottle and a bracket... to be continued.

Im down to the last few things to get this truck assembled and drivable. The oil pan rotted out on the 235 and had a few pin holes. I cut a big square out and replaced all the pitted areas. A few of the 1/4-20 screws stripped out and lost there threads so I replaced all of them with bolts when putting the pan back on. The holes were sealed up with caked on dirt and grease. When I went to clean it off the rot revealed itself.

Next up are the window and vent seals.

[dsraven]

no pic of the wipers-didn't happen.
haha
I have had to stitch up a few oil pans in my shop as well. somebody already beat me to it on the last 235 i worked on, a '54 GMC. it was bashed a little and had a leak at a small wrinkle next to the drain plug. it was also seeeping from elsewhere on the pan so I took it off to fix it and also check the bearings etc. the previous repair was done with a brazing torch and brass. can't weld to that so had to grind it off and start over.

[dsraven]

I have modified oil pans before to clearance a frame or steering linkage on engine swapped projects. sometimes it helps to have a few old pans layig around that can be donors for different shaped needed etc.
will you also check out the integrity of that stamped metal plate used for a nut on the drail plug? I have seen lots where the spot welds come loose from overtorquing the plug. they usually leak at the spot welds when that happens. i've had several that have actually split on a steel SBC pan. some guys use the oversized "self threading" oil pan plug after stripping the threads in that little plate, thats usually gonna cause a leak soon or else split that plate right away. I have welded a nut on the outside of a few oil pans just to get a guy going, only on engines where the oil pan is easily taken off and the guy can't find another one to fit same day (or too cheap to buy it, lol)

[dsraven]

here are a few pics of my wiper motor conversion, its a motor from a GMC envoy. i cut off the stuff I didn't need and made a set of mounts with rubber inserts on the motor, and a set of sheet metal mounts on the firewall. i also had to planish the firewall a little with my air hammer and planishing bit to make room for the motor and the electrical plug. no linkage yet, that'smgonna hafta wait till march sometime.
i know you have your motor installed etc but i also remember you had some questions on how it was supposed to be mounted. i have an original electric motor but the cab was made for a vacuum one so the electric one didn't fit.due to the different shaped depression in the firewall. I thought i would upgrade to a newer, more easily found unit.
not intending to hijack your thread. thanks for posting your progress.
for a glass jar type of reservoir i have often thought of those suction collection jars you see in hospital rooms. you could use an inline pump.

[alexMoody]

I got the both door seals and window seals done. Kind of a fun project on those.

After that I wanted to tackle the exhaust. I didn't expect it to fall apart... Literally. Since I'm having to get a replacement exhaust manifold, i figured maybe its a good time to explore the Fenton headers. Those that have done it, can I use Fenton headers with the stock intake? If so, what is required to make it work?

[alexMoody]

more pictures for the window seals. I made a simple rivet setting anvil that could clamp into a vice to do the rubber seal for the vent window. it protruded 1/4 of an inch to help set the rivets from the bottom. It worked well.

Some of the brackets were broken and same as the door latch. So I just hit it with a quick tack to fix them.

[alexMoody]

Here is the current situation. I can get my truck to run but it idles high. Around 1500 rpms. I had a bad throttle shaft bushing so I replaced the carb and added one with an auto choke. Also added a stove bolt kit. At the same time I had to gap the points to .012 to get the dwell around 30. That’s the number I found looking online to get dwell too. After that I started to mess with the timing some more. Found the ball bearing on the fly wheel. Set it to the timing mark which is roughly 2 degree btdc right? While having this set and the vacuum advance disconnected from the carb and the clamp loosened from the shaft of the distributor I started the truck and was able to get it to idle around 650. Now, it pops and back fires from the carb. It doesn’t matter how much I adjust the idle mixture in or out. The other issue I see is if I don’t have the distributor in the perfect spot it either starts and immediately dies or it revs to the moon and stays around 3000 rpms.

It seems to only want to run and stay running when it’s around 1000-1200 rpms and this is when I notice the vacuum advance may be getting stuck.

Are my points bad? Am I having an issue with the vacuum advances mechanism at this point? When I turn the truck off the I distributor seems to relax back to a full range of motion.