1967 step side build!

[TXgearhead67]

When I replaced the cowl panel I shaved the firewall gutter. I've seen it done with radius corners from several other members. Sorry I can't remember their names. I think it turned out awesome.

[TXgearhead67]

Here's some better pics of the gutters. Not the best pictures of them but once I start body working them they'll look alot better.

[TXgearhead67]

I smoothed the wiper cowl to give it a cleaner look. I'm going to have to make some kind of hidden mount to secure the middle of the cowl to the cab. Its on the list of things to do.

[TXgearhead67]

While I was tackling the rust repair I was also building the motor. Its a .060 over 350 2 bolt main with hyper pistons, Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam, and aluminum heads. The heads were a bare casting PBM that the machine shop fitted with 2.02/1.60 SS valves. They also set the valve springs up to match the cam. Compression is 9.5:1. I'm running a Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap that I gasket matched. I plan on running a Holley Sniper EFI. Should be a good little street motor.

[TXgearhead67]

More engine pictures. PBM 1.6 roller rockers. Hooker 1 5/8" ceramic headers. March Ultra-Drive pulleys. Billet Specialties valve covers. I found these cool SS bolts for the intake. I'm waiting to buy any electrical components as long as I can. Trying to save their warranty.

[TXgearhead67]

I stripped and cleaned the bottom of the cab while I had it off. Someone had done a half a$$ job coating it years ago. I used the Dupli-color rust barrier again. If I could do it over I would've used Raptor liner instead. The Dupli-color is fine but I think the Raptor would've sealed it better. It'll be fine though.

[TXgearhead67]

While I had the cab on its back I fixed some rust spots on the front inside roof panel. I wish I would've replaced that part while I had the outside skin off. Having a box brake and a shrinker/stretcher made that job better. Not easy lol but better. The cause of all the rust on the cab was from a poor paint job years ago. They filled the drip rails with a coating that shrank and cracked letting water in. I was told the truck sat for 10 years under a lean too and just collected moisture. Anyways she's on the road to being complete again.

[TXgearhead67]

As we were stripping the bed I discovered a past repair. They filled all this rust with body filler. Its never ending. lol So I made a patch panel out of some left over metal. It turned out pretty decent.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

WOW, nice work on the cab rust & all, I ordered a California cab today for my 71 stepper, I'm not going thru all that ......... I can't weld, I'll wait here & watch you work if that's ok
cute dog

[TXgearhead67]

More bedside repair.

[TXgearhead67]

I don't blame you Jiggers. I definitely took the long road. lol

[Jiggers72-GMC]

Originally Posted by TXgearhead67

I don't blame you Jiggers. I definitely took the long road. lol

Yes you did but you get to keep the original VIN tag, back window and all .......

[TXgearhead67]

When I first started this build I made bed caps that were flat. At some point I seen a C10 at a show that had radius bed corners. I really liked them so I ordered a set from Apicella Designs. They were made for a earlier stepside so I had to modify them. I'm not completely done with them yet. Needs a little more welding and blending. I like the look of them though.

[68 C10 Driver]

TXgearhead67, I am enjoying your build, great detail and excellent photos. The cowl work and tailgate is impressive, excellent quality. I am a little ahead of you on the cab, but still have the frame and bed to do.

My engine will be a crate 350 w/4-bolt mains with a Muncie M20 4 speed. I am trying to keep mine as original as I can, but will do some very subtle changes and I will be using period correct accessories.

[TXgearhead67]

Originally Posted by 68 C10 Driver

TXgearhead67, I am enjoying your build, great detail and excellent photos. The cowl work and tailgate is impressive, excellent quality. I am a little ahead of you on the cab, but still have the frame and bed to do.

My engine will be a crate 350 w/4-bolt mains with a Muncie M20 4 speed. I am trying to keep mine as original as I can, but will do some very subtle changes and I will be using period correct accessories.

Thank You. That sounds like a sweet ride your working on.
Posted via Mobile Device

[TXgearhead67]

So when I started this build I bought a Boyd side mount fuel tank. I used a donor fuel door from a 91 mustang I had. It bothered me that it opened up backwards and was square. So I ordered a Hagans fuel door kit which was much smaller. Great kit, I should have went this route from the get go. The main problem was that I already had a big panel welded in. The panel that came in the kit was too small. What I ended up doing was buy the kit with the fuel door not attached. Then I cut a new panel with correct size I.D. hole for the fuel door and O.D. to fill the space of the big panel. When I did this I also shifted the filler hole so it would be straight inline with the tank inlet.

[TXgearhead67]

Some pics of the plumbing. I wanted the filler neck bucket to be removable. So what I did was make 3 tabs that I welded on the bucket. Then I welded 3 bolts onto the fender. Now I can remove the bucket to paint or whatever. I plan to make a gasket to seal bucket to the inside of the fender. I also welded a 90 degree fitting close to the top of the filler tube for a vent. I hope that works OK. Before I sent the frame out to powder coaters I welded a notch in the frame for fuel hose clearance.

[TXgearhead67]

When I bought my wheels and tires BugzC10 was asking if I was tubbing and at the time I wasn't. The more I thought about it the more I liked the idea of it. So I ordered a set of 65 fleetside inner fenders. I cut them down to 4" and made the flange were it would line up with factory holes in the bed. I trimmed the bedsides to fit and drilled holes to bolt the tubs in. They came out pretty good. I still have some weld clean up to do on them. The plan is to Raptor the bedsides so I'll bolt the tubs in and run a bead of seam sealer around the edges of the tubs. Should be able to fit a 12" Wheel with clearance.

[TXgearhead67]

Before and after of the cab floor. I used more of the rust barrier. I'm thinking about extending it further up the firewall. Not sure yet.

[TXgearhead67]

So at this point the cab rust repair was completed. It was time to get it in epoxy. Scuffed everything and taped it off. Shot it with DTM 2K epoxy primer.

[TXgearhead67]

I was so glad to get to this point. It was a turned corner for me. With the majority of the rust cut out and on to new things. It took me about a year of off and on work to get the cab to this point. I would work on rust for a couple weeks then take a break and work on something else for a couple weeks. Then back to rust repair. I replaced the cab corners early on but I'm not really happy how they turned out. So I'll be cutting them out once again and fitting better ones.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

WOW, it really turned out nice, maybe you're being too fussy on the cab corners but it's up to you,
can you tell me what black product you used inside on the floor for a rust barrier/inhibitor ???
thx Gerry
ps: the gas cap door turned out great.

[BigBird05]

Looks great. Thanks for including the detailed pictures of your filler neck. I am planning the exact same thing. I have a suburban filler neck and sheet metal or I can go with a filler neck and sheet metal from a 86 C-10 left hand side filler. What way do you think would look better.

[aggie91]

Looks great! Personally, I would have run the rust block all the way up the firewall to the bottom of the windshield. But if the DTM you used is good stuff and there was not surface rust in that area, you should be good.

Great progress on the cab! My son just got his cab in epoxy too this past weekend.

[TXgearhead67]

Originally Posted by Jiggers72-GMC

WOW, it really turned out nice, maybe you're being too fussy on the cab corners but it's up to you,
can you tell me what black product you used inside on the floor for a rust barrier/inhibitor ???
thx Gerry
ps: the gas cap door turned out great.

Thanks. I used the Duplicate-color rust barrier on the cab floor and underside. It seems pretty durable as far as getting scratched and scuffed.