Old Girl (aka Project Underhaulin)

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by builtbyKane

That's a lot of metal you found and even a whole quarter, haha. Keep truckin along its looking awesome.

Not that big ,just a dime . Still no fun . good luck with the rebuild. Looks like you're doing a complete job.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by builtbyKane

That's a lot of metal you found and even a whole quarter, haha. Keep truckin along its looking awesome.

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Not that big ,just a dime . Still no fun . good luck with the rebuild. Looks like you're doing a complete job.

World full of starving comedians and you two are trying to steal their work! Trying...

[3757chevy]

I have a day job just because of that.

[C10_ustacould]

The brakes are to a point where we could remove the rear axle for the rebuild/upgrades. Basically they are somewhat bled and not leaking fluid. We pulled the rear end and disassembled it. There was more metal packed into the outboard side of the passenger side carrier bearing, and there was no crush sleeve on the pinion. The outer pinion bearing has turned gold-ish brown-ish color I believe due to over heating. This was alarming at first but I've read that some folks use shims behind the bearing races to set bearing preload vs a spacer or crush sleeve. I haven't knocked the pinion races out yet, but I'll let y'all know what I find out when I do. I have all the parts and most of the tools to complete the rebuild, I've been trying to buy a 12 ton press for a week but the tool store can't get their crap together. Hopefully I can pick one up tomorrow, if not I'll use the press at the auto hobby shop on base where I work. Here are a few pics, including one of me looking enthused about working on the Old Girl tonight, I'm getting tired...

Under hood is mostly buttoned up for the brake swap.


Front caliper/rotor


Rear caliper/rotor (old axles)


New Wilwood master cylinder, Tuff Stuff booster assembly, and captainfab mount bracket.


To quote Ebby Calvin "Nuke" LaLoosh, "I'm just happy to be here, and the good lord willing we'll win a few."

[C10_ustacould]

It's been a week since the last update. The brakes are done, tested and pads bedded. we need a little more time driving to really have a sense of how well they work but the initial impression is they work very well.

The rear end rebuild is progressing but we've had a setback, a noise while accelerating. I spoke to the tech line at Richmond Gear and after emailing pictures of the contact pattern he suggested more pinion depth. I thought we were within the + .002" tolerance but after checking the notes we were more like .003" shallow. Crazy how one or two thousandths can make a big difference. I'm defintitley glad my son (c10punk) suggested taking pics of the pattern as it made it much easier to deal with tech support. I ordered new pinion bearing, seal, and crush sleeve and hope have it all swapped out and reinstalled tonight. I am amazed that the rearend didn't make any noise with no crush sleeve to set pinion bearing preload and ZERO preload on the carrier but howls when I'm off on the pinion depth by .003".

[beaterku]

Originally Posted by C10_ustacould

New Wilwood master cylinder, Tuff Stuff booster assembly, and captainfab mount bracket.
Attachment 1779480

Which toughstuff booster did you go with?

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by beaterku

Which toughstuff booster did you go with?

I used the 2224NC, the clearance between it and the shift lever for an automatic is tight but it works.

[C10_ustacould]

We are back together and riding, the rear end still has a slight howl but everything is within spec so outside of getting another gear there isn't really anything I can do. We're going to change the fluid at 500 miles and use Lucas 80w-90 in the hope it will quiet down some more. Anyway, here are some pics to further document our journey.

Here's the rear end out and disassembled for the second time, tech guy at Richmond Gear asked me to put .002" more pinion depth in it...


Here's the drive side pattern after adding the pinion depth...


Coast side...


Kid let me ride the Old Girl to work this morning


Had to ride over to another unit this afternoon to do some training, had to take a look back pic

[smbrouss70]

FWIW, I talked to Tom from Tom's Differentials in ID when I had some noises coming from the original rear end in the Blazer. He recommended Torco Racing Gear Oil in an 85W-140 as it is what he runs in all but the most serious race rear ends. He says he's tried every gear oil out there over the years and this one is his favorite.

I never did try in the original rear end before I took it out, but I have some of it that will be going in the new narrowed rear end before it gets back on the road.

[aggie91]

Nice to see you back with another nice truck! Is this one a keeper? Is it for your son, Connor?

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

FWIW, I talked to Tom from Tom's Differentials in ID when I had some noises coming from the original rear end in the Blazer. He recommended Torco Racing Gear Oil in an 85W-140 as it is what he runs in all but the most serious race rear ends. He says he's tried every gear oil out there over the years and this one is his favorite.

I never did try in the original rear end before I took it out, but I have some of it that will be going in the new narrowed rear end before it gets back on the road.

Thanks for the tip Steven, I'll check it out!

Originally Posted by aggie91

Nice to see you back with another nice truck! Is this one a keeper? Is it for your son, Connor?

It is Connor's (C10_Punk) truck, he says it his forever truck.

[C10_ustacould]

Having a bit of a brake issue... As you know we just completed a 4 wheel disc conversion using a Willwood 15/16" bore master cylinder, Wilwood D52 front calipers with stock rotors, and Wilwood D154 rear kit. All the lines and hoses were also changed. As the brakes warm they start to squeak or chip if that's understandable. It's not the loud sqeal that's sometimes associated with performance brakes and/or brake pads it sort of wavers. Here's where it gets weird, they all make noise at some point but rarely at the same time. If I hear the right front making noise I can turn just slightly to the right to stop it, but the left will then start making noise. Turn to the left and it swaps back. I know... weird right? The same with the rear but it seems to be tied to body roll. As the truck body rolls towards the right, the right rear will start making noise. The same occurs when it rolls to the left. It's crazy! Has anyone had this issue?

[aggie91]

Never have heard of an brake noise issue like you describe. Have you pull the wheels to do a visual inspection of the parts? Is the caliper rubbing some where it shouldn't? Are there signs of wear where it should not be?

Just shooting from the hip, sometimes it is hard to find a problem like you describe.

[CC69Rat]

Buck, check the brake pedal clevis. When the brake pedal is in the full released position you should have aboit 1/4" of free play before any brake pressure is applied to the push rod. This will allow it to be in the fully "released" position when you let completely off your brakes.

Also, the original hole where it mounts to the brake pedal rod itself, drill a hole 1" down from the original mounting point. This will not only give you a better pedal feel, but a more linear lateral "push" stroke as the pedal moves through its range of motion.. then likewise a full pull "off" when you let your foot off the brakes.

To me, it sounds like residual line pressure. In short the calipers aren't fully releasing allowing enough space between the pads and rotors when it's just rolling. The brakes are being slightly pushed at all times if that makes sense.

Ask me how I know.. Lol. I'm fighting this same issue.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Buck, check the brake pedal clevis. When the brake pedal is in the full released position you should have aboit 1/4" of free play before any brake pressure is applied to the push rod. This will allow it to be in the fully "released" position when you let completely off your brakes.

Also, the original hole where it mounts to the brake pedal rod itself, drill a hole 1" down from the original mounting point. This will not only give you a better pedal feel, but a more linear lateral "push" stroke as the pedal moves through its range of motion.. then likewise a full pull "off" when you let your foot off the brakes.

To me, it sounds like residual line pressure. In short the calipers aren't fully releasing allowing enough space between the pads and rotors when it's just rolling. The brakes are being slightly pushed at all times if that makes sense.

Ask me how I know.. Lol. I'm fighting this same issue.

You say fighting, did doing all the things you mentioned not clear up the issue? Thanks for posting up.

[CC69Rat]

Helped a bunch, yes. Still some to do. My rears are dragging a tiny bit. But I think it's a shim issue. Still working on it.

[cjohns]

Great truck ,, I bet there isn't 1 guy on this forum that wouldn't take that truck !!

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Helped a bunch, yes. Still some to do. My rears are dragging a tiny bit. But I think it's a shim issue. Still working on it.

Thanks Chad, I'll check it out.

Originally Posted by cjohns

Great truck ,, I bet there isn't 1 guy on this forum that wouldn't take that truck !!

Thanks, It's a good truck and thankfully the camera is VERY kind to it.

[C10_ustacould]

Worked on the truck a little tonight. Swapped the conversion volt gauge for another unit provided by Tommy aka TBone1964 and it works perfectly, the first one read a little high. We removed the rubber bump stop per Hart_Rods suggestion and it seems to have stopped the "Squeaking" of the brakes. This confirms both Rob and Chad's theory that the push rod is too long. I'll shorten it a bit and reinstall the bump stop then give it a go to see if it holds. Figured I'd give an update even though it's not much.

[mattfranklin]

Beautiful truck!

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by mattfranklin

Beautiful truck!

Thanks!

[C10_ustacould]

Probably could do with an update. I just need to collect what we've done recently. We've replaced the ill-fitting 6 cylinder wiring harness with an American Autowire classic update kit. We also installed an American Autowire torque converter lock-up kit for the 700r4. We're in the process of upgrading the fuel system with a Boyd Welding EFI tank and FiTech fuel injection. I ordered a governor tuning kit for the 700r4, as the 2 through 4 shifts have been stacked since day one. We should be able to tune the shifts both part throttle and WOT to make better use of the engine's power. I'll throw up some pictures to go with the update.

This is just a pic from a day the kid let me drive it to work.


The tank and the FiTech unit getting aquatinted.


The Boyd Welding tank about to go up for it's first test fit.


After drilling the first hole for the bed fill, and it lined up with the filler in the tank!!


The filler cap sitting in it's place, looks pretty sano if you ask me. I do wish the filler would have landed over those scratches in the bed wood... oh well.

[Palf70Step]

You going to make CTC this year?

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

You going to make CTC this year?

Yes sir, we'll be there Tuesday to Thursday.

[Palf70Step]

Good hope we'll get to see you.