Rodstored-72's 1986 DD build

[TKCR]

I edited one of my older pics of the original dash Bezel, zoomed in closer on the rings. Although it’s faded some, I believe these rings were chrome also. You can see hints of it in places where it’s not as worn. The brushed overlay makes it to where the chrome rings don’t “stand out” as much. Thats why I like my new Bezel, without the overlay, the chrome rings DO “stand out” against the black Bezel.

[rodstored-72]

TKCR,
Thanks!! I thought I remember chrome accents from my OG '79 "big 10" that my dad purchased new. I will think on it to see if I want to apply the effort to match or maybe just leave as is for now... since it will be replaced in the future ...

[rodstored-72]

well I have been busy doing "to-dos" on the truck. I will follow up soon with some pics & an update... but right now I hit a snag... I was getting ready to replace the rear cab bushings when my pass side mount bolt started spinning - it appears that the nut is broke loose from inside . I was able to find a thread that kinda covers this, but hoping that I can get some confirmation on the way to repair this situation.... any assistance would be greatly appreciated. more to come!

[evan]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

well I have been busy doing "to-dos" on the truck. I will follow up soon with some pics & an update... but right now I hit a snag... I was getting ready to replace the rear cab bushings when my pass side mount bolt started spinning - it appears that the nut is broke loose from inside . I was able to find a thread that kinda covers this, but hoping that I can get some confirmation on the way to repair this situation.... any assistance would be greatly appreciated. more to come!

Easiest way I'm aware of is measure in from the outside and use a hole saw big enough for your sockets to drill a hole in the hump behind the seat. It's flat there so pretty easy to weld a circular patch back in after you get it sorted out or you could just use a rubber plug. https://www.amazon.com/Black-Rubber-.../dp/B073NM9263

[rodstored-72]

evan, thanks! I never thought about the hole saw & plug (weld in or rubber as referenced) good idea! i will probably end up doing one of these....

thanks again!!

[rodstored-72]

Ok, well I have been busy working on replacement of the rear cab bushings. I was able to get the driver’s side replaced fairly easy. The pass side…….. uuuhhmmm not sooo much! I ended up having to cut the bolt using my Sawzall. I kinda feel silly after the fact…., I cut a square hole (did this to give me more room to work in – opposed to the hole saw) I learned afterwards that I probably could have used my torch to heat up the bolt at the square nut & I think it would have came loose. In any case I was finally able to get the pass. Side replaced. I painted the cab support across the mount area and I also cleaned and scuffed the frame around the area to por-15 it too. I did take a picture after all was complete & ready for the next procedure…

[rodstored-72]

Well, I took a few days to revel in my recent accomplishments… well enough of that!!... and now to the next hill that needs to be climbed! Which is the pass rear shock “issue”… I surveyed the damage & with the help of a friend we formulated a plan of attack. We ended up cutting some same gauge plate metal & then bent it to match the damaged area that we cut out. My welding skills are very amateur so I left the welding in the patch to my friend. It doesn’t look pretty but there was definite penetration. I let it cool overnight… actually by the time we finished it was past both our bedtimes!... so, the next morning I started grinding the welds & in a few spots I re-welded to fill a few holes or dips. After that I finished it off with the air grinder & sanding disk. I cleaned another portion of the frame and then por-15 it. I painted enough so that I could install the belltech lowering spring supports onto the frame. Overall, I am happy with the finish product. It is not SEMA show worthy, but for a soon to be daily driver I think it will work!

[rodstored-72]

I kinda got things out of order, but below are a couple of pictures after I removed the gas tanks as well as the differential & rear suspensions items....

[rodstored-72]

well.. I have a small update, it was kinda build related....

[rodstored-72]

I had spent all day in the garage tearing apart the differential & springs, I must have dropped the springs while prepping them for paint atleast 3-4 times.. never once on my feet I finish for the day & come inside to clean up, after going up the stairs I decided to spend a minute & goof around with one of the dogs... well he decided to "juke" when I thought he would "jive" and in missing to step on him I kicked the foot of a chair! ... and well the above was the result.... a broken toe...

[rodstored-72]

needless to say my garage time has/was sidelined for about 3 weeks . this happen the first of Feb. so it is all but completely healed now . I did get some items on the "to do" list taken care of which I will post soon.

[Low Elco]

Ouch! Good frame work!

[rodstored-72]

low elco.. yea that one was one that hurt.. Thanks! I had a little help with the welding, mainly machine settings & a few tips.. since I had no experience working on that "heavy" of a metal.

[Hart_Rod]

Nice project. Keep pecking away, you're getting close!

[rodstored-72]

Rob, thanks!! yea right now it does feel like I am pecking... progress is slow. I am finishing up on trying to figure out the routing of the fuel lines so as to re-install the tanks, lines & electrical. Then it's a big step in putting the bed back on the frame.

if anyone has pics or knowledge in the fuel line routing I would be very appreciative of guidance....

[rodstored-72]

I am trying to figure out the fuel lines & wondering what people have used for fuel line(s) when running a late model LS engine? I know you have to use F.I. hose... but can/should you use the pushlock hose and AN hose fittings or is the AZ store F.I. hose and "T" clamps suffecient?
any help from swap "pros" would be greatly appreciated....

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

I am trying to figure out the fuel lines & wondering what people have used for fuel line(s) when running a late model LS engine? I know you have to use F.I. hose... but can/should you use the pushlock hose and AN hose fittings or is the AZ store F.I. hose and "T" clamps suffecient?
any help from swap "pros" would be greatly appreciated....

If you haven't read through this thread, I highly recommend it:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=754061

As to your question, both will work (just follow the directions for tightening the clamps). The bigger issue to me is getting fuel hose that is no susceptible to break down with the ethanol that they put in fuel nowadays. You don't want to gum up your injectors or have a gasoline smell in your garage.....

[rodstored-72]

rob, thanks. I agree, I have been told by each of the places that I have bought hose from that the F.I. hose is "made" for the newer vehicles & fuel??? I dunno though? well I guess i will run my hose from the tanks & then directly connect the F.I. hose to the switch valve by using the "T" clamps?
thanks!

[rodstored-72]

well I am "100%" related to the foot, probably not mentally though... so I have finished the frame, differential & springs cleaning & painting. while working on the frame I installed the rear portion of the BELL TECH lowering kit. overall it went smooth, though for some reason I had to "message" the frame holes to fit the supplied grade 8 bolts. pictures of the painted frame, differential & springs.

[rodstored-72]

here are a few pics of the frame assembled & painted.


also a sneak peak to my next order of business I tackled... guesses

[BAM55]

Looking good keep pecking away and you will get her done

[rodstored-72]

I am getting out of order, but I thought I would give a little more detail to the work done. After installing the differential and springs I then decided to install new rear brake shoes and do general cleaning of the brakes. I have not messed with drum brakes since H.S. (A VERY LOOONG TIME AGO!!) after a few choice words & help from a manual or two … I FINALLY was able to get both sides with new shoes & they are a bit cleaner now. I also decided to clean & paint the drums too. Sooo.. I spit shined them & using a red scuff pad I gave each drum a once over & then painted them. I found a krylon color (sunset red) that I think matches good enough. I have been bad about remembering to take pictures but I found one that kinda shows the painted drums… albeit in the background. Here are a few pictures to show some of the work... enjoy

[rodstored-72]

Next on the docket was supposed to be re installing the bed… BUT a “friend” of mine said to me ”are you planning on keeping the cab back looking like that?!”. Soooo with that being said, I decided I should address the cab back wall. I once again cleaned the back off & then sanded it down. I broke out my newly purchased GLOBAL HVLP paint sprayer and decided to give it a “shot”!... I mixed up some O.G. paint color & fired up the compressor. I sprayed the cab wall with 3 good coats of paint, and let set overnight. Later the next morning I then sprayed 3 coats of clear. There is a little orange peel, but not enough that I felt like redoing anything. I THINK that I did not have enough pressure and/or not enough/too much material?? Anyways on with the pictures., which I eluded to previously….

[rodstored-72]

So! now that all that has been done, I felt like it was time to start installing the fuel tanks & ALL the appurtenances along with them. I have a friend that is doing a LS swap too & he received his tank from “tanks, inc.” I happen to look at the tank & I really like the finish that it came with. I decided that I could mimic that too. I went to the local “blue” box store & found a metal paint that I thought matched the finish – rustoleum “metallic” finish, which to me looks very similar to a “hammertone” type finish.

[TKCR]

Those turned out GOOD! Very nice