55.2-59 Ol' Blue

[dsraven]

nice work.
I use garnet in my blast cabinet because it doesn't powder up so badly
keep on posting, great work so far

[8man]

Thanks Raven.

[8man]

Ok, I got the engine, a 5.3L from a 2011 truck with 111,000 miles on it. I thought a lot about that, and while they are supposed to be good for more miles, I wanted to delete the DOD/AFM on it, so,
IMG_1739 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes, I started stripping it down.
IMG_1743 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes, that is a 2011 5.3 with cast iron block and flat top pistons. The heads are the 243's with the cantedral port.
I'm sending the block out to be cleaned, checked out by some pros and then honed. They will rebuild the heads, as well.

I'm deleting the DOD, so I will need different lifters and pushrods, as well as a number of other parts. I've searched some YouTubes and scouted around what some of the folks around here are using, and I think I'm going with the Brian Tooley Racing kit. I am even planning on using their "Truck Norris" cam.

I didn't mention it, but I've been looking at parts to make it look like an old school small block. I've already picked up the old Mallory distributor to run the wires from the "hidden" coil packs up through the distributor and out to the plugs. I saw this on a YouTube where he used some Lokar parts, but some of them got a little pricy, but I think it'll be fun if I can camaflouge it so that people ask, "is that a small block Chevy"?

Next update I hope to have the frame painted with the Mastercoat stuff, but "the best laid plans" as we all know...

[Tempest67]

I know very little about LS Swaps, other than they are very popular and don't get rid of the donor vehicle until the swap is complete, and for me, the electronics is beyond my comfort zone, so I don't think I would ever try one.

HOWEVER,...... have you ever considered a Carb on an LS motor? I would think that would simplify things? just wondering?

I like following your projects as you always do great work, and thanks for sharing

[8man]

Thank you for the nice words.

I have a 350 block with LS heads and a carb in the 48. I had forgotten how I "loved" starting a carbed engine! Once it fires off, it runs great, but then the gas mileage is only about 11mpg.

Also, I agree with you that the electronics are beyond my limited electrical knowledge, but I put an LS in the 79 Cherokee Chief and have not had a problem with the electrical part once it ran. The harness was bought from a harness builder, and it plugged right in and played. If I have problems with it, I'll take it to a shop that works on LS engines. But it starts right up and has about as much power as my built 350, it's stock and gets almost double the gas mileage.

The LS I'm putting in the Cameo should have more horsepower than either, and if I'm successful, it'll look like a mid-50's small block Chevy. At least that's the plan.

[Tempest67]

I guess fuel mileage would be the biggest drawback of a carbed LS ? but I would think the power would still be there? Yes?


I tip my hat to you, as the electronics of those motors scare the hell out of me.

I have heard people say, "just tune it on your laptop" ya right? not for me.

Good Luck with it, and thanks for sharing (I wish I had the knowledge)

[8man]

Tempest, thanks again.

I will try to document and post up my progress and include a PIA factor for anyone who would like to know how bad I find the process.

[Tempest67]

hey, Thank you for sharing your build

[8man]

HCB3200 helped identify the engine as a LMG. So, as Forest would say, "one less thing".

I hope to get it off to the machine shop later this week.

[8man]

Well haven't been too busy, life has been in the way. However, I have gotten some things done.

IMG_1748 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
IMG_1749 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
IMG_1750 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
IMG_1761 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Engine is going to the machine shop tomorrow. I will ask them when it will be done when I drop it off, but I'm hoping it's soon. I can't see much cross hatching in the cylinders, but it really looks clean other than that. The shop will hopefully only hone the cylinders, replace the cam bearings, check the pistons, install new rings, and check the crank. If that is all they have to do it may be pretty quick. So I need to get moving on this thing.

IMG_1759 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes, the engine will be Chevy orange.

The frame and other "hidden" parts will be a matt black, from MasterCoat.

IMG_1760 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

[dsraven]

they're gonna dip the engine too, right? get the cooling jacket and oil galleries etc all cleaned out? replace frost plugs and cam bearings, oil gallery plugs etc?

[8man]

Yes sir. They are going to do all that.

This will be my first engine build, and I was talked into it by a restoration shop manager who volunteered his time to oversee my worki and what I'm doing. So, maybe I won't screw it up!

[8man]

I have a ZR2 rear axle, and I've started rebuilding it. The lugs on the rear don't match the ones on the front hubs I got from TCI. After talking to TCI and having the axles out of the tubes, I decided TCI was right it was going to be easier to replace the rear metric lug bolts with 7/16 x 20. I measured the knurl and got some from Summit that are the right size. I have measured the knurl for size, and it is .557", so my measurement agreed with Dorman.

Now, I need to drill the hubs out, but I'm not sure what size drill bit to use, I'm thinking 15/32, although a 14mm might work. I need it to be tight enough to hold the lug bolts tight enough, so they don't move.

I talked to an axle shop today and they said the real problem was centering the new hole. I thought I could just use a drill press, and the right size drill bit would follow the original hole and be centered. Am I missing something?

Thanks.

[8man]

I got the engine, crank and pistons back from the machine shop. They honed the crank and cylinders and replaced the piston rings. It was in pretty good shape!
IMG_1802 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I painted the block, oil pan and front cover plate "Chevrolet Orange". With any luck, I'll start assembling the engine this coming weekend, but the heads are still at the machine shop, with no end in sight.

I finally got the last of the E-brake parts for the ZR2 rear end and was able to finish that assembly.
IMG_1806 - Copy by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
The note is to remind me to add red Loctite and torque the caliper bolts before installing. Since this is my first rear axle rebuild, I decided to have a mechanic buddy come check the backlash before adding that red Loctite to the bolts, just in case I have to pull the axles again for any reason.

Then I started repairing the rear bottoms of the front fenders.
IMG_1803 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
If you look closely and squint just right, you might be able to make out the pin-hole in the fender bottom and there are two close to the nut. I welded this up and primed it. Did the same to the other side, but it wasn't rust, it was a little damage. I hammered and dollied it until it will take a little filler and then some high build primer to make it look good as new.

So far, that is all the damage I've found. The cab and doors are next though. They still have the re-paint on them, so there could be some damage hidden inside a door or something, but it still looks rust free!

[Rickysnickers]

I'd recommend that you NOT use red Locktite for the caliper bolts. If you want to use some Locktite, then I'd suggest the Orange stuff.

[8man]

Thanks. I will.

[dsraven]

nice batch of parts.
blue or orange loctite. red is for stuff that will prolly never need to come apart again for a long time. sometimes it needs heat to get it to release. sometimes the bolt breaks off instead.

[8man]

Thanks Raven.

[8man]

Finally got the short block together!
IMG_1811 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
IMG_1810 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Yes, I took a picture of it upside down, just to show it really does have pistons in it.

The heads are still at the machine shop but should be done around 8/7. Then the rest of the assembly will take place.

Taking the cab and the doors to be dipped tomorrow, they should be ready around the 15th of August, and then I can start welding some of the holes in the cab.

[8man]

Ok, I'm not sure what this part is called, it is the radiator support I think. Anyway, the truck had dealer installed AC in 1955, and it appears they cut and bent some of the louvers out of the way, removed the "X" cross bracing and took off the two little horseshoe shaped pieces on the upper corners when doing it.

Here is the louver removal after I've cleaned it up a little.
IMG_1813 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I shaped a louvre and welded it to a piece of flat sheet metal.
IMG_1814 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

And, here it is all welded up.
IMG_1815 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Now for the real questions.
1. What is this piece called?
2. Is the "X" necessary?
3. Are the two straps on either side necessary?
Here is a picture of an old rusty one a buddy gave me so if I need the parts.
IMG_1816 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I could use the old rusty one, but it needs some rust repair on the structural supports and there is a bolt broken off that is very difficult to get to.

[dsraven]

-yes, that is called a rad support
-in my opinion you should keep the X even if you modify it to suit your needs. it's only round stock so you could easily fab one up with your skills. if you look at what the whole part does (supports the front end sheet metal on the frame and levels up the fenders to the cab etc) it is a structural part because it has the body mounts for the front end, with shims under the mounts, to level the body lines.
-mine does not have the straps on either side but then mine is a Canadian GMC so it may be different because it is a GMC with a Chevy rad support.
-I built a new rad support for mine after having bought a new one and then decided to change the rad and a/c condenser so they fit through the opening. I thought "why cut up a new part when I could build what I want instead?" a local dude got a smokin deal on the new rad support. what goes around comes around (I hope, lol)

here are a couple pics of my homemade version. it allows the rad to slip through the opening to allow room for a fan etc. if you wanna try this it is pretty easy and cheap to make, I used square tubing and 16ga sheet. no louvers on mine either

[dsraven]

your mounts would be different as mine is a frame swapped version. easy enough to figure that out when you have come this far with your fab skills.

[dsraven]

this gives me 4.5" of clearance between the rad and the water pump shaft. like said though, this is a frame swap.

[Tempest67]

I can't answer your questions, but nice work on the louvers.

[8man]

Thanks Raven and Tempest.

Raven, I think I'll keep both the old rusty one and the one I just repaired until I can get the cab on the frame with the engine and tranny mounted. Then I can see what clearances I have and then decide on how to best finish this repair.