1967 Chevy CST aka "the loud truck"

[67chevy1series]

it will be coming! i need to go back to college breaks almost to an end so on the 10th ill be leaving my parents house and going down there so going to finish this up hopefully in the next couple days

[67chevy1series]

update time! almost getting there

[Ol Blue K20]

You got a decent wear pattern and backlash I presume. Keep it up so I can see the pics of two marks...

[67chevy1series]

yeah the back lash is nice it doesnt have alot of play but it stills has just a little bit which if im correct is what you want.

[Ol Blue K20]

Yep it needs a little,

[67chevy1series]

well the 3.73 posi is a huge step in the direction i want with the truck... but i still feel the truck needs... well some git up n go.. so not only will i put the 700r with the shift kit (which should help out) but im also going to put a set of double hump heads from a 69 327, they have the provisional holes for the altenator so i can get rid of the nasty 67-68 style altentator brackets and go back to the 69-72 brackets. and to go along with the heads which i have already bought (they been rebuilt) i will be putting a comp cam in with a 470 lift and 272 duration.




and i well i guess i have another truck. its a 65 dodge d100 crew cab shortbed. its all white and all patina'd and thats the way the outside will stay... as for the engine/suspension i will be running 71-72 rear trailing arms and c10 axle and either a 250 inline 6 or a small block chevy the front is a little tricky and looks like i can t run c10 front suspenion.. so i will look into a aftermarket IFS

[Ol Blue K20]

Glad the rear diff worked out for ya. Those old Dodges were so ugly that they're cool.. post some pics...is it a driver so yo you can work on the 67 or the next project

[67chevy1series]

you are exaclty right! although in my personal opinion the 61-65 1st 1/2 have a grille thats just a little to ugly.. lol the last half of 65 (which is what my crew cab is) they did some really good things to help the look of the trucks they fixed the wheel base and made the bed a little more proportioned, they brought out the "pie plate" grille and they made a wider tailgate with actual tailgate handle. so im actually lucky to end up getting the year that i did plus i was kinda hoping for something without the year 67 this time lol and as for the truck i made a build thread in the alternate tinkerings. the truck has no axles and the old 318/4spd has been in the rain without a carb or hood for at least 10 years so im pretty sure its seized. just going to yank the engine and trans out.







also forgot to mention i have anoter project... a mini bike
lol anyways heres some pics of the dodge

[Ol Blue K20]

That truck will be quite the project Rick. The 70 grill would look nice in there...

[67chevy1series]

Yeah it's gonna be a big project indeed

[67chevy1series]

Hey guys got a question with a smallblock engine in a 1/2ton 2wd frame in the v8 engine stands do you have to lift the engine or unbolt it to get the oil pan gasket out? I need to replace my gasket and I'm wondering if there's enough room between the crossmember and the crank to take the pan out?

[67chevy1series]

Man this can't be such a huge task that nobody wants to even talk about it?

[Ol Blue K20]

I've never did it in a truck but my chevelle needed to lift the engine up a bit

[67chevy1series]

Hmm oh much room is there on a chevelle between the oil pan and the crossmember? I'll measure the 67 and see if I have less room or not

[Ol Blue K20]

I'll look when I get to work, but from memory about 2 inches

[Ol Blue K20]

Ok Rick the chevelle/elkies have about 2" of clearance. I've been able to get the pans out of them by lifting the motor before. A bit of a pita but not bad

[67chevy1series]

Does anyone know if the tru ram exhaust manifolds from speedway motors will fit in a 2wd c10? I'm wondering if they will clear the crossmember?

[67chevy1series]

Well the 67 is running rough on idle while in gear... I have replaced both inline fuel filters as of yesterday, I checked my spark plugs there all gapped and connected the wires are good and not messed up the distributors good. There's no vacuum lines that are cracked broken or disconnected and when I put the 327 in last April? (Think it was April) I had put a brand new fuel pump on so fuel pump is almost a year old. And the sending unit is new and not clogged. So I'm thinking out if all that it could be the fuel pump.. Going to out another fuel pump in to see if it stops/changes the in gear idle.....


On a better note: this April I'm going to get a new timing chain, comp cam, GM 1972 16" steel rims, new head, intake, valve cover, timing chain cover, carburetor (those are the gaskets) and while I'm at it I'm gonna do an oil change and then the new fuelie heads and oil pan gasket will go on. Also going to buy the 700r TV cable bracket from bow tie overdrives so I can put the 700r in, An when I get the 16" steelers I'm gonna go get tires for them and that wil be my big plans for the truck for the first half of the year.

[Ol Blue K20]

Rick, did you check for vac leak under carb and brake booster? You might check compression in cylinders too. I can't see fuel pump causing rough idle unless it's having problems at rpm too.

[67chevy1series]

Ok so I replaced the gasket for the carb/intake and it runs even worse! I'm thinking the gasket is gonna need to be replaced again with something that fits a bit better and I'm starting to think my idle jets may be clogged or dirty how would I clean those? If I'm not mistaken the idle jets are the 2 screws in front of the edelbrock correct? So to clean them do I just back them out and clean the hole out and then reassemble?

[Ol Blue K20]

I have very seldom had the jets clog up but I would take the carb top off then the adjustment screws (count the turns) and would clean it out with carb cleaner (I use berrymens b12). But first I would warm the engine and spray the carb cleaner and look for vac leaks. Recheck under carb too.

[67chevy1series]

Well I checked for vaccum leaks and there weren't any but I did have a big leak under the carb so I bought gasket paper and made a gasket for the intake and I also took the idle jets out and cleaned them and I put it back together and the truck runs way better butt it still just barely off from how it was I need to change intakes this intake is the Holley street dominator and i can see now that it's made for the skinny width Holley carbs and it doesn't really like my fat width edelbrock so I'm gonna get a edelbrock intake for the truck

[67chevy1series]

Well guys looking for some input about my horn issue... I put all the horn guts under the horn cap in correctly and hooked up the horn and then nothing.. For awhile I've had the horn disconnected because the horn guts were I wrong causing it to honk completely at random while steering/driving lol so I finally took the CST cap off and fixed the tabs so I could put it on and off with no worries and now put it all together and now nothing the relay doesn't even click.. So I put a relay that if know works for sure and it still didn't even click... So I tested the horn and it works as well and so now I know I'm not getting power to the green wire but I don't understand how im not I cleaned all the connections and put it back together and it still does the same thing..

[Ol Blue K20]

Sounds obvious but you did check the fuse right?

[67chevy1series]

There isn't a fuse for the horn? There's only wipers, ac or heater, backup lights, cluster feed, panel lights, tail lights, radio, hazards, glove box and spot lamp and all of those things work fine so I'm assuming the horn isn't tied into one of those, otherwise something else would not work either