Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4..

[mongocanfly]

flashed...
AA has a crimper tool rental program...would be better than buying them for a one time use...to do the kit the way they specify you need a single and a double crimp tool...but theres only a few double crimps needed in the kit..i cheated and used 10ga female lugs...then I twisted both wires together and insert in the lug ,then crimp..and I have both wires in a single lug

[mongocanfly]

Thanks Regan..!!...that snowball turned into a avalanche...

[mongocanfly]

Still pulling wires....just going slow and taking my time....thanks to the super heated shop....
I decided to go with this switch for the heater fan...its a 2 speed switch...Cole hersee 68028..
But I could do without that fancy little creme colored knob...I tried using the orig IH knob but the set screw that holds it on the stem was messed up...the new switch shaft is threaded and the old switch shaft is smooth round..
So I started working on saving the knob.....I wasnt sure how I was gonna do it...
Thought about filling the hole with jbweld or making a Insert...I was gonna try jb first so I tried drilling the center hole out on the old knob...well the insert spun out...so that settled it..
I made a new insert and drilled and tapped it to 10-32...
Gonna clean it up good and put some 2 part epoxy on the new insert and press it in...hopefully itll hold together...
Pics are new heater fan switch and old knob with old insert, the new one I made, and the brass one from the new switch knob..the middle one is the one I'll use...
sure wish I could find a good quality set of knobs...the old ones are showing their age

[mongocanfly]

Man this heat and humidity...its bad
I'm really hating it...I'm not sure I remember it being this bad...if I stand in one spot for 5min it looks like you poured a gallon of water on the floor...
I've been changing clothes 4-5 times a day...taking 2-3 showers a day..work about 30min then cool off for 30min... drinking water like crazy..
I actually poured water/sweat out of my shoes today ...no kidding..got tired of my shoes squishing when I walked
Now for truck stuff
I've got most of the wiring run...I'm working on cleaning it up, bundling it, and putting wire loom over the wires where possible...trying to make it look somewhat neat...

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Man this heat and humidity...its bad
I'm really hating it...I'm not sure I remember it being this bad...if I stand in one spot for 5min it looks like you poured a gallon of water on the floor...
I've been changing clothes 4-5 times a day...taking 2-3 showers a day..work about 30min then cool off for 30min... drinking water like crazy..
I actually poured water/sweat out of my shoes today ...no kidding..got tired of my shoes squishing when I walked
Now for truck stuff
I've got most of the wiring run...I'm working on cleaning it up, bundling it, and putting wire loom over the wires where possible...trying to make it look somewhat neat...

I always wonder how you guys can deal with the humidity.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I always wonder how you guys can deal with the humidity.

Some days I literally look like I jumped in a pool with my clothes on. The only part of me that will be dry is my shoulders where the sun is beating down on me. The rest of my shirt and pants will be soaked. It is what it is.

[jjzepplin]

I feel the heat with you. Some days I just wish it would rain already. The air is so full of humidity, you wonder how it is NOT raining. I just get used to moving around in wet clothes and watch out for the dreaded Chaffing... Once I can flick my head toward the cement and shake off a good spray of sweat, the day is over. It's a trade off for the wonderful benefits of the fishing and sunsets. I have spent 30 years living in San Francisco Bay and wearing jackets. Now I just laugh at them in the corner of the closet. I guess I should just get rid of them but I use them for travel.

[67C10Step]

When I was in my 20's I was talking with a guy in his 50's that was from one of the northern states, I think Wisconsin. I worked in the pulp and paper industry at the time and he told me the story of his first trip down south in the summer when he was in his 20's. Seems he got in his mind he was going to work circles around them slow moving southern guys at the mill. He said 3-4 hours in his clothes were soaked through with sweat and he was spent. He figured out it was about pace and when it's 95/95 heat and humidity that pace is SLOW.

I've been going out and working in the shop the last hour of day and first hour of dark. Weekends I might slip out at or before first light. 11:00-4:00 is a no go unless it's necessary to work on something. A dip in the pool after yard work most every time.


This pretty much covers living in the south in the summer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyjFu0CbXTc

Mongo - sorry for the mini hijack. Keep up the good work you are into details now which means progress!

[mongocanfly]

we tolerate it Dale...but its miserable... ive been trying to do most of the work between 9pm-2am...but it don't help much
Jesse knows what im talking about
JJ.. problem is its been raining every day...but that only makes it worse...
67C ..thanks we are pretty slow moving around here...that video is spot on

[mongocanfly]

Delima time...
I need a electromagician...
I got a new universal wiper switch..
When I was testing the old switch for ohms, it was bouncing all over..
The new switch came in but I wasnt getting the same readings...
So I hooked up both switchs to 12v and below are the readings..
Before I hook this up my question is will the new switch work?
I dont want to let the smoke out of my wiper motor if I can help it..
So heres pics of both switches and the results...
Pos-off....1st click....2nd click

[mongocanfly]

While I'm knee deep in wiring and sweat, I'm also trying to keep the under hood as clean as I can..
I'm running a elec fan which requires a relay and fuse...I didnt want to mount them on the inner fender and have that mess sticking out like a big ol fat tick...
I was considering making a box to hide it all when I remembered the old Delco-Remy headlight and starter relay boxes that I removed during teardown ..
So I gutted them and cut the backside out of them and used them to hide the relay and fuse..

[burnin oil]

There shouldn't be any ohms of resistance on a simple 2 spd switch. Put 12v to the hot and check the pins for voltage. Then cycle the switch to each position and look for voltage. Another way would be put the meter to ohms and one lead on the hot. The speed positions should have infinite resistance. Move the switch to low and the low should have 0. Same test for high.

Test 2 would be the easiest way. If you have more than a few milli ohms of resistance the new switch is bad or your leads arnt making good contact.

[mongocanfly]

Thanks BO...I'm definitely reading ohms and -OL- from the hot terminal to the 3 diff terminals on both switches when you turn the knob...but the numbers were all over.....
So I hooked up 12v to the input terminal and then checked each terminal for voltage..which I have listed in the above pics..
I'm not a electrician so I get lost easily..
I also put this same question in the electrical section and it appears the IH switch doesnt work like GM does..
I've asked the same on a IH site but theres some confusion there also on how this works..

[mongocanfly]

Here are the ohm readings beside the 12v readings I'm getting thru both switches
I'm not sure if the old switch is good or bad...so i cant really go by what I'm seeing to know if its good...

[burnin oil]

Are you sure that you are on the IH hot lead? Is there a ground from the switch to the wiper motor? Usually the switch is just grounded to the dash, case grounded. Is that a factory jumper between A and P on the IH switch? I have a theory going but I want to confirm what I am thinking.

[mongocanfly]

Yep ..I'm positive I'm on the hot lead...marked B on the switch...the yellow wire on the old switch came straight from the key switch to B... 12v supply when switch is in on position....
theres no jumper between A and P..
Heres some schematic pics that may help...

[mongocanfly]

The wiper motor itself is the ground side of the circuit... I think...
Heres the wiper motor end of it

[burnin oil]

I am thinking that P is the park function on the switch and that it would be off when on but I could be wrong on its function. F looks to be low with A being high. Unless I am way off base I don't think what they are calling a breaker is really a circuit breaker but an old terminology like prop shaft.

What I would do is try a quick temporary hook to the switch leaving P unhooked and check wiper motor function. If you are worried about the motor burning up put a small fuse on the hot wire like a 5 amp. That should be big enough to kick it over without the wiper arms on the truck. Maybe even enough to do it with them on. If everything works connect the P and it should still work. From there we can try to figure out the new switch. If that doesn't do the trick I will have to hunt a gm manual up for field wound motors to see whats up. A generator should work the same but it has been many years since I played with one and need to refresh my memory. All I Remember about them is that you can jump a lead and a generator will spin since it is an electric motor, if its good.

[burnin oil]

both the switch and motor are cased grounded. The body is the ground path return to the battery. The diagram confirmed that. It just doesn't say what the leads are powering.

[mongocanfly]

Thanks BO...
I'll try that tomorrow...hadn't thought about doing one wire at a time and see what happens....

They sorta worked before and that amazed me for it being 60+ yrs old...
From my searching , P is park mode...but I could never find anything indicating what the A and F were for...i know hi and lo but not which wire does what...
the new switch is self explaining the way its marked...

[burnin oil]

NP. I took a stab at the speeds based off where the voltage readings where. I just looked and my 57 chevy manual skipped the wiper section. Go figure. I will look around and see if I can find another old chevy manual or my Mack manual. I think I can figure it out from there. Now the question is where did I stick them. Unfortunately we are dealing with wiring that hasn't been done that way for 50 years. I bet we can find a cole hearse switch that will work though.

[mongocanfly]

I was looking at cole hersee on their site and saw this...
http://colehersee.com.au/switches/rotary-switches/
most all the other switches on the truck are cole...
the new switch I have is a aupro Part # GH-1112-71

[mongocanfly]

1st off let me thank all that helped with the wiper switch, thru replys and pms..
I did as BO suggested and tried one wire at a time with the old switch..
Glory be...everything worked just as it should...
The park position worked.
Hi speed works..
Lo speed works...but only if A and F are both connected..
So I hooked up all 3 wires and ran the switch thru all the positions...everything worked..
Better than it did before teardown..
Maybe the cleaning I've given everything did some good..
So I'll be using the old orig switch afterall..
On a side note , the new switch only had off and high speed...no lo or park...so it wont work..
Heres the diagram with the switch position and what they do...and I verified the voltage readings while it was running....still not sure how the lo spd works with A and F both having 12v..but it works.

[mongocanfly]

Now that I know everything is in working order, I decided to take apart and clean the drive gears and contacts...everything looks good on the inside, but was nasty,,

and there was 2 big globs of a greasy like substance sitting on top of the brass contact plate along with some grit and dirt...I sprayed it all down with electric contact cleaner....I'm pretty sure the grease is some type of dielectric grease...but it looks like axle grease...it is over 60yrs old after all....do I need to put more dielectric on the plate before I put it back together?...

I put a touch of lithium grease on the shaft where it passes thru the housing...the worm gear is metal and the worm wheel is plastic so I assume it doesnt need any lube on it...I did clean all the dirt and grease out of the teeth...
So do I need grease?
Pics of the Inside...red circles are where the balls of grease were..
Pics of the grease also..

[Ol Blue K20]

I would put a little grease on the gear teeth. Maybe a little dielectric on the contacts.