85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett"

[gringoloco]

Strange there's no bolts in the top/front of the notch. Is this meant to be able to bolt in without removing the bed?

Lookin' good!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Strange there's no bolts in the top/front of the notch. Is this meant to be able to bolt in without removing the bed? Lookin' good!

There are bolts on the bottom on the front end. The bed has to be removed to cut the channel cross brace.

[82streetshow]

coming along nicely, I should be right behind you

[rustytruck50]

Looks great! Enjoy watching the progress!

[SCOTI]

Tick tock..... You guys are cutting it close 🤤

[moregrip]

Looks fantastic! Are the rear shocks upside down?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 82streetshow

coming along nicely, I should be right behind you

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Looks great! Enjoy watching the progress!

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Tick tock..... You guys are cutting it close 🤤

Thanks guys. As always Scot no matter how we try it ends up being last minute

Originally Posted by moregrip

Looks fantastic! Are the rear shocks upside down?

Actually they are on correct. For some reason the stickers are on wrong. Problem reported and resolved.

[mywifestruck]

Looks awesome

[N2TRUX]

As many of you know, we did make it to Goodguys Lonestar Nationals in Ft Worth to be in the RideTech booth. Of course it was a down to the wire thrash, so allow me to share.

With the rear finished we moved back to the front. One last trip to FedEx had netted the final package with some key components for the front install.

Ridetech provides a template to cut the required holes in the crossmember for the coil over shocks to go through but I really wanted to install the mounting brackets first.

I bolted the bracket in place, and as I suspected the holes I had drilled to remove the rivets were off.
I used the RideTech bracket as a guide to align and drill the holes on center. With that done and bolts installed I scribbed inside the hole to get my cut Mark.

[N2TRUX]

There are several ways to make the cut required in the crossmember. The easiest would be with a plasma cutter. I did not have one available so I reverted to plan B and C. I followed the scribbed line with my cut off wheel and considered using it to make the cut.
I soon realized my tool and compressor would have made this a long process so I traced the line deep enough to use as a guide. I tried my sawsall but the width of the blade wouldn't allow tight enough turns so I changed tools again.
I have an air powered jig saw that's compact and cuts well. I used the most aggressive blade I had and slowly made the cut.
It was time consuming, but much cleaner than the sawsall. I dressed the cut with various flapper discs to ensure no stress point would develop.

***Note the 7/16" x3" bolts that are used to install the upper A arms are pushed in to a hex shaped pocket on the back of the bracket. DO NOT use washers on the head of these bolts.

[1957 Chief]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

There are several ways to make the cut required in the crossmember. The easiest would be with a plasma cutter. I did not have one available so I reverted to plan B and C. I followed the scribbed line with my cut off wheel and considered using it to make the cut. I
soon realized my tool and compressor would have made this a long process so I traced the line deep enough to use as a guide. I tried my sawsall but the width of the blade wouldn't allow tight enough turns so I changed tools again.
I have an air powered jig saw that's compact and cuts well. I used the most aggressive blade I had and slowly made the cut.
It was time consuming, but much cleaner than the sawsall. I dressed the cut with various flapper discs to ensure no stress point would develop.

Totally agree with you Ken. There is just no good way, besides a plasma cutter to get in there.

I used a jigsaw with a think metal blade as well.

Bubba

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 1957 Chief

Totally agree with you Ken. There is just no good way, besides a plasma cutter to get in there. I used a jigsaw with a think metal blade as well.Bubba

Bubba I had looked at the template and considered using a 4.5" hole saw. I actually bought one to use. I calcualted the time it would have taken to cut a small piece of wood or sheetmetal to bolt in place to allow for a pilot hole for the hole saw to use as a guide. I still "think" it would have worked, but time was too valuable at this point and I went straight to the tried and true method.

[82streetshow]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Bubba I had looked at the template and considered using a 4.5" hole saw. I actually bought one to use. I calcualted the time it would have taken to cut a small piece of wood or sheetmetal to bolt in place to allow for a pilot hole for the hole saw to use as a guide. I still "think" it would have worked, but time was too valuable at this point and I went straight to the tried and true method.

I was without a plasma cutter as well. i went the hard route, took the whole crossmember out and took it somewhere that did, powdercoated it, then reinstalled

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 82streetshow

I was without a plasma cutter as well. I went the hard route, took the whole crossmember out and took it somewhere that did, powdercoated it, then reinstalled

I actually considered this myself. You are at the point where its only a few more bolts to drop the entire crossmember. I even have a spare crossmember that made it that much more enticing. In the end, it was a time factor. What could I do in the least amount of time to obtain results that were acceptable to my self proclaimed level of quality.

[UKNOWME]

So let’s see the final stance with the coilovers? Does it sit any lower than before? Any chance to drive it yet to give a review on the ride?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by UKNOWME

So let’s see the final stance with the coilovers? Does it sit any lower than before? Any chance to drive it yet to give a review on the ride?

Unfortunately I'm not ready to answer yet. We set the coil overs up with an additional 1" preload above -0-. Ironically this gave as an increase in height of 1" from where I was before we started. On the trailer going to FT Worth she settled a 1/2" . We drove her off the trailer and in to the show. With no adjustment on the shocks, and no front end alignment she didnt feel very good. I will elaborate more on the next updates.

[UKNOWME]

Ok thanks!

[82streetshow]

does the rear sway bar brackets weld to diff housing?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by UKNOWME

Ok thanks!

My pleasure. I promise to give an insightful review once I have enough data.

Originally Posted by 82streetshow

does the rear sway bar brackets weld to diff housing?

Yes, the only part of this kit that does require welding are the lower mounting points for the rear sway bar. I removed the lower shock mounts attached to the axle for aesthetics, but that is not required.

[N2TRUX]

With the upper mounting bracket secured in place I was able to start hanging parts. The upper ball joints are bolted to the upper A Arms. The A arms are stamped with a D & P for obvious reasons. Even though they look the same, especially late at night, they must be mounted on the correct side.

With the upper arms in place you can move to the lower A arms. Fortunately the lower ball joints come pressed in place. The factory U bolts are used to mount the lower arms. I bead blasted them to clean up the old threads, then gave them a coat of satin black.

I found that the bolts had spread wide and didnt want to fit back in the holes properly. I installed the nuts to protect the threads then gave them a few whacks with a hammer till they fit properly. Also note that the lower arms have a guide pin to align them. Be sure that seated properly while installing the arms.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Looking good Ken!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

Looking good Ken!

Thanks buddy.

[Chaplain]

Thumbs up...

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Thumbs up...

[N2TRUX]

Chase at RideTech opted to include the new CPP Modular 73-87 C10 2.5" drop spindle upgrade to accommodate the Wilwood D52 calipers that I had previously installed. These spindles are designed to be used with the factory 12" HD rotors and bearings.

I bolted done the adapter bracket that was provided, and mounted the spindles in place. Since Chris was available to help hold things in place, we skipped to the front sway bar. RideTech has updated the Musclebar to a new design. We mounted the end links loosely and slid the bar in place. One end of the bushing clamps lines up with a factory hole and the other needs to be drilled. We tightened everything down and called it a night.

The the new MuscleBar requires a shorter version of the factory bushing stands. This kit is a beta version and did not include the stands. Notice that the end links are at an aggressive angle with everything in place and at full droop. We "assumed" that would correct itself when set on the ground. We all know what assuming does.